Dude, you saved me a boat load of time and money. I couldnt figure out what the problem was with my brakes. I was about to put in hydro assist brakes. I did not realize there was an adjustment there. Thanks

Thanks. I wish u had kept the camera on the adjustment area as you were adjusting. Thanks again

I miss that jeep 😢 I've still got my 93 and I don't know how I could live without it

Excellent video. Thanks!

Thanks for the awesome video. I changed my booster and master cylinder last year. I'm betting this is the final adjustment.

You should take your measurements to the mount surface. The depth of the piston from the mounting surface should match how far the pushrod extends beyond the mounting surface.

Very helpful, and thanks!

Great video.I’ll now know to check this when Im replacing my booster. The screwdriver length measurement and the feel of the pedal method seems to have got you setup.

Thanks Man - Im about to adjust mine in the morning.:)

Flush the system, bleed the brakes then check the “specs” per manufacturer on the gap between pushrod and master cylinder. Use a depth gauge, or caliper to get a precise measurement! There should be a very slight gap (like .020” or something) so there is no drag on breaks. Then move to other components.....

Had this issue ordered one from rock auto put it on my 04 jeep had no brakes at all adjusted it some got brakes adjusted more had better pedal.

Amazon sells a tool, $20, that can streamline the process. Most manufacturers have a spec, my 2000 Town Car has a clearance recommendation of .23 to .245 inch. approximately 1/5 to 1/4 inch.

Good vid .. have to try it

Did you match the numbers on the power booster which are located on the end that connected to the brake pedal inside the truck? There are several boosters for that vehicle.

Ya really did work ,TY

Great video i myself like learning new things and fixing my own vehicles. See a lot of people giving you flack because you were open and honest. How do you learn something you dont know trial and error. I have a spoongy brake pedal gonna do some checks on my master cylinder make sure its good and if it is i may order the tool to try this so i can adust it myself. My booster looks like it has been replaced at some point so an adjustment maybe warranted. Keep up the good work dont let negative comments beat ya up learn from them. Thank you for your insight very good info…

Glad you got it fixed

good info thanks

Nice video. I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra SR5. I had to replace my brake booster because it had a leak inside the cab area. I purchased an aftermarket booster from Autozone but believe it might have been defective. Ever had air coming out between cylinder and booster? I got a code for running lean and it's all I could find that might be causing the problem. Do you think it's better to get an OEM part? What are your thoughts?

Great video

the push rod should not hit; it needs to have about a sixteenth/5 thous air gap if you use one of those H-adjustment tools, you still need to have a small clearance to prevent the pushrod from keeping the brake applied and dragging, wearing down your pads and rotors. and holding back the vehicle/overheating the brakes.

Thanks for this bro. After three full system flushes assuming it to be air in the system, gonna try this out. I got my truck out of the shop with a new booster/master combo and drove home with stuck pistons. Took it apart to rebuild the calipers while i'm at it and ever since, brakes have been super spongy. Too dangerous to drive even so it's been sitting. Probably in my efforts to unfreeze the brakes, I have backed out the push rod too much.

Thanks for the video. Having my own battle with my brakes dragging. My push rod is not adjustable. I did order the fancy tool. We will see.

This is a guess job, could end up with brake drag. They sell a tool to properly adjust the push rod clearance.

I just replaced the booster but the pedal link will not go in ...any idea

5 STARS !!!!!!!!! John

some booster doesn't have that, so you have to use a wedge(after driving for a while you have to take it out, nickel worked for me

Pack some bread in it, hit the pedal. measure it, chuck the dough, measure it, split the difference.

There is a $15 tool on Amazon called a Power Brake Booster Pushrod Pin Adjustment Tool that takes about 2 minutes to set that clearance properly. Don't ask why I know know this.

When they are loose, you adjust it to stick OUT more or IN more? What about if they drag?

I have the same problem with my Samurai. I rebuilt the drums, put on new calipers in front and rotors all around, new master cylinder and power booster. Brakes have been sponge since. I bled the brakes 3 or 4 times but still the same. I will readjust the pushrod and see if I can finally get my ride on the road. Thanks for the video.

Does the insulation on your ceiling help keep your work space warmer than just Sheetrock?

Well I seen that adjustment out enough to cause the brakes to be applied as soon as the master cylinder is bolted up .I want there to be a bit of clearance between the rod and master cylinder. I going to replace the vacuum booster with a hydroboost on my dodge ram. I never been impressed with vacuum booster brakes

thanks have the same problem, whil try this nxt week-end

Excelente

First back the pin way out so you can feel it’s too far , then work it back one turn at a time until the master seats .

Extra points for persistence

I got a new brake booster but the rod that connects to the brake pedal is too short and always keeps my brake lights on. Could this be the push rod?

Are you adding or subtracting push length? I have a Honda that is driving me a little nuts after changing out the master cylinder and booster

Cool.I was wondering how to do this.

Have a chevy pick up very, very little brake pedal about 1/5 of a peddle 2003 model the new booster we put on has no adjustment any ideals out there as to what to do to get more peddle?

So i was trying to adjust mine and i accidentally broke off the nut on the tip of the pushrod used to adjust length is there anything i can do

After searching the internet it looks like there are tons of people that forget about this adjustment. Mine is out too far and allowing my brakes to heat up and apply themselves because the fluid cannot return to the master cylinder.

Changed out master cylinder and brakes are still mushy! could this be the issue ive been looking for the whole time? thanks. brakes still enact but pedal isnt firm at all.

So was that about 3 full turns total if you were doing quarter turns each time? What size wrench were you using?

Before you do all that, flush out the brake lines and refill/rebleed entire system. Fresh fluid gives you that firm feel, fluid may be old, have water, corrosion, fluid deterioration etc. You normally don't need to adust the pushrod unless its an entirely new set up. Some people think that brake fluid stops you and you have to replenish to keep you stopping? Whaat! 😱 These same folk are a pint low on blinker fluid...

Just did this on a 71 ford, the rod in the booster wasnt adjustable but the rod coming off the pedal is,.

Might want to hook up your Vacuum and pressure valve.

Removed my brake booster on my 409 impala (1963) to paint it (just had it replaced 6 months ago) mechanic told me it wouldn't rust (obviously he didn't want to do that. So I take the booster off paint it and put it back on and now I have no power brakes. I tried to adjust it but still no brake booster effect. Sometimes you just can't win.

Use a micrometer measure distance. Take in consideration of counter sink. U want to have push almost touching the gap less than 1 mm

Can't trust mechanics in my part of the woods.

So no need to bleed the brake system since you didn’t disconnect any brake lines right? Thats wassup!

My 88 wrangler ding the same thing I’ve changed everything I gave up on it today

That booster will not keep your brake pad drag. Plus you can use a 1/4” racket with a 7 mm socket to turn that adjustment end in or out.

Okay so just cause I’m not very smart. The more you adjust rod out, the more your brake pedal pushes rod into the master ?

I bled my brakes and it was nice and firm but when I turn it on today the brake pedal got soft. Help .

Wastes over $50 of brake fluid before i discovered it was my pushrod.

Would be nice if you actually showed us what you're doing to adjust the push rod...

I converted my 76 cj7 jeep manual drum brakes to power disc brakes (brake conversion kit off ebay) and a YJ booster and mc with proportion valve off a YJ wrangler. I had to lower the brake pedal as the piston rod was too long and didn't match up with the brake pedal. Problem is, I have soft brakes. If I pump the brakes, it gets harder and I eventually stop. Brakes are always the same. Soft until I pump. Then hardens up and I stop.. Scary.. Any idea what is wrong? Also~~Can I adjust the piston rod to shorten it so the pedal won't be so low and would that fix the soft pedal issue? Thanks for the video... Not only educational but also funny...

I think I have the same problem

Are you doing an inward adjustment?

Could this cause brakes to lock up as well? If the push rod was too far out ?

I think can do some adjust on the other end of the rod

You dont have a dial caliper???? I guess its a good thing your "off road"..

Having the same problem on my modified 47 GMC with a 350. Just learned about push rod adjustment after 2 years! Who knew? Anyway GM says 1/16 of an inch. I have ordered a digital caliper on Amazon for about 40 dollars. If you want to learn how to measure there is a New Zealander on here that goes thru the procedure in mm but you can translate to GM.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qL-JrbN6rNXclo0.html Most mechanics or brake shops have no clue!

So really didnt show how loose the pin on the booster ,, no help there

I can't see nothing .

music ruins it

Unable to see what he is actually doing most of the time. No way to measure it? Use an H-tool instead of trial-and-error. This is a rather irresponsible demo.

Another one who doesn’t really know what he’s doin. Just winging it. Read a book fellow there is a procedure to do this. Your gonna need to replace the studs and nut now you had them off so many times they are wore out.

“i’ve never done this before” !!! Yikes !!! It’s your BRAKES man. Take care of your life and take it to a mechanic or someone who HAS done it before.

You don't have anyway to measure it, then you shouldn't be messing with it. Another video that should be taken down. poke and hope methods should not be allowed when working with brake systems.