Same here. I thought I bought a lemon. 😅😅😅

Awesome video….have u done a video showing removal of springs and firing pins?????…..thx.

Which gun? If it's a 725, take a look at my video on why that happens.

No. Any trigger resets faster than the shooter. Some folks are just really good at acquiring the second target and moving aggressively .

@@scotheath3201 Thank you so much.

Thank you.

I'm pretty sure that receiver is 3D.

No. Someone asked about installing an auto safety on the 725 as well, I've not seen an auto safety on the Citori or 725 platform on other similar guns, this is merely a bar connected by screw to the locking block such that when the locking block is retracted, the bar pushes the top tang mounted safety rearward to it's safe position. If you don't see how that is accomplished, post a photo of the parts and I'll do my best to create a drawing.

@@scotheath3201 cheers mate Kerm from the UK 🇬🇧

Done. Please see kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j998eZBnuLWmo58.html

@@scotheath3201 at 2:20 in the linked video, you mention INERTIA BLOCK. I’d thought the 725 trigger was not inertial. After all, I can dry fire both barrels in succession. Is that possible with an inertia trigger? Thanks.

@@twiki1963 Inertia is still part of the process. The hammer springs impart inertia to the disconnector which in turn, imparts inertia to the inertia block. In my opinion, to be called a mechanical trigger there should be no reliance on inertia in the process . For example, if the act of pulling the trigger caused the sear to drop off the middle shelf in the absence of hammer springs, it would be a true mechanical trigger. I've seen Citoris modified to operate in this fashion by angling the forward part of the middle shelf downward. I've also seen that part and the sear wear in other guns to the point that the sear would remain stationary while the shelf would slide rearward causing a no-fire.

@@scotheath3201 thanks for that explanation. Would version 2 of the hammer spring (the one that bulges in the middle) have anything to do with this? Or was the 725 always designed to be a (not really true) mechanical trigger? Also, would you have any insight into what might cause my trigger to (very occasionally) get *very heavy*, to the point where squeezing it moves my gun enough to cause me to lose the target? Am I not cleaning or lubricating it enough? Thank You.

@@twiki1963 Since the spring moves vertically as well as extending as the hammer pivots forward, the original design relied only on the vertical motion to impart motion to the disconnector. Later, 2 piece springs with a washer and now a spring with a large diameter coil were implemented and my theory is that this was done to give the disconnector more energy with which to disengage the inertia block. It may have reduced the occurrences of the failures to reset but didn't eliminate them. As for you trigger question, is it on the 2nd shot only and are you able to cause the gun to fire by simply squeezing with a lot of force? There was another question about "trigger lock" which is most likely due to the locking lug blocking the trigger (which it does when the gun is open) as a consequence of not quite engaging deeply enough. I suggested that the person should give the top lever a little push CW if that were to occur as a test to see if that was the reason or not. If it's 2nd shot only and you can't get the gun to fire, it's most likely trapping the trigger. If you can get the gun to fire, that's a puzzler as the block must be under the sear for it to lift and fire and I can't think of anything that would increase the force only occassionally.

Is it set up for reliability with the .410 bore and everything else is just overkill?

Wow! Thanks for the quick reply! Jim@@scotheath3201

Yes, all but the "mechanical" triggers on the 725 but even those operate as recoil reset when firing live ammo.

Yes, the ejector trip rods depend on friction from being "bent" such that they don't move forward in their bores from recoil. If there is too little force required to move them, they can move to the trip position and trip the ejector hammer sear in the forearm upon opening. They're surprisingly "sticky" due to their shape.

First thing to check is trapping the trigger. If it doesn't fire the over barrel on the second shot , take your finger all the way out of the trigger gaurd then re-insert and pull tbe trigger. If the gun fires, you're trapping the trigger. If not, it's something mechanical. Take the stock off, use some snap caps and fire the under barrel then move the safety to on then back to off and see if fires. If not, what is happening, why doesn't the second sear lift?

I've always favored the Browning action over the 6XX Beretta guns. I've owned both and still have several Browning. The bolt surface area is much greater and kept clean and lubed, will last many 100000 rounds.

@@scotheath3201 thank you for your reply. I was going to sell my browning at a great loss. I will try the other triggers that came with the 725.

Not really enough information, one check I always do is with the stock off, fire each barrel as first shot, pull the recoil block back by hand and return it gently, side shelf should drop under the remaining sear every time with no binding.

@@scotheath3201 I think I found the issue and its missing the trigger piston and trigger piston spring, is there a book or a instruction manual o how to put it back on?

@@scotheath3201 thank you for your help

They're easier to implement. With a mechanical reset, the mechanism must insure the sear has released before the switch to the other sear. Easy enough with sufficient over-travel or a link from hammer to reset mechanism but much closer tolerances are in order. Adding a little mass to the mechanism is a simple way to guarantee the sear has released before resetting. As usual, it's all about profit.

@@scotheath3201 Yeah you ar right. The weird thing is that mechanical reset is usually found on cheaper guns..

Cost. Less hand fit parts here.

How much can a trigger job really be on a $2,000 shotguns and up? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would pay the extra $100 for a silky smooth mechanical trigger.@@scotheath3201