batteries and alternators are voltage sources, caps are rectifiers and shouldn't be used in place of a source. Gotta get the current u need from alternator and batteries then add the ultracaps to rectify fluxuations is voltage

Leave the agm in and add the cap..the reserve will come from the agm and the burst will come from the cap...the alt will supply both and youll be happy

You also have to remember that these are budget amps. Even the samples given to bench testers are showing that they are crazy inefficient with power draw! They produce awesome numbers, but they do it on roughly 20 to 30 percent more power consumption than higher quality (much more expensive) amps. Two of them are going to produce insane power but require a far more capable electrical system to meet their demand

Part of the issue is you measured voltage drop across a circuit in the back rather than voltage at the capacitor. That’s why you saw such a drop in the back of the car and not the front. Check your ground source in the rear of the car. Also Newer cars often do not have the ability to carry large amounts of current through the unibody due to large usage of adhesives rather than welding when manufacturing the vehicles. Running a direct ground wire to the front of vehicle to an factory ground location can help. The reason I know this is because many modern cars run into electrical issues when trying to relocate a battery from the front of the car to the rear and they try to slip running a true ground wire back to the front of the vehicle.

Man I purchased one of these for my system from big jeff audio and man I can literally feel the difference it made my subs come alive I'm running a CXA 1800.1 on two Q-class L7 12's and they would hit pretty good before but I could literally go full tilt on my head unit and barely see vibration in my side mirrors I added this and I can't go past 3/4 on my radio or bass knob and I am slamming this was literally the best purchase I have made so far for my system it made me so happy and I could actually feel the difference in the SPL lvl so much that I have already ordered a 74AH jag35 lithium battery to go with it for a hybrid super capacitor setup that I'm told works really well together and will give me a lot more power than the lead acid/Super cap setup I'm currently running great video and good recommendation this thing has excellent power delivery for your system and the price is excellent I got mine in hand for next to nothing with financing I literally won't even notice the payment

Editing on these videos is really 👍. Subscriber from Barbados 🇧🇧

I was going to comment about getting yourself a higher output alternator, but I'm glad I waited for the video to finish. How come you didn't run 1/0 gauge when you did your big three? I can't see where your grounds are in the back, but hopefully you're attached to the frame, or a seat bolt. Are your power and ground OFC cable? If it's CCA, it won't have the same current capacity for the same gauge as OFC. I'm really impressed with your improved video production value. You're on your way, bruh. Keep up the good work.

Man you do great videos,I enjoy them and the editing.keep up the good work

Excellent narration and video production! You gained a new sub here!

I'm sure you already know this Budget Basshead, but for those who may not: things needed when big power amplifiers are used: 1.) Big 3 power/ground cable upgrade 2.) H.O. alternator 3.) Secondary battery dedicated to audio system 4.) Current isolator relay

Im not a pro like you. But from my research and experience. Add that to the second battery in back instead of replacing it might do a world of difference. That being said the alternator will change your systems electrical just make sure your running at least 1/0 the whole way around as well as doing the big 4 upgrade. Again this is from my experience. Keep up the great videos

Once that alt goes in you’ll be fine. I did two batteries in the back one for each sub and the alternator from singer. I didn’t need the capacitor. But you will be pleasantly pleased when then alternator drops in. 😎😎

One thing i would recommend is comparing the charging voltage of the stock alt at idle vs 2k rpms. Some people dont realize that you have better charging from higher engine speeds. So if your stock alt puts out 80amps idle thats less then the 135amps it is rated for. Even with the different charge parameters put into the bcm of the car. The newer 320amp alt will give you more amps at idle over your stock alt but it also gives more at the higher engine speeds too. If you can try to run up the engine speed to around 2k and see how that compares to what you saw with the idling. Also try putting the agm battery under the hood as well. Keeping the ultra cap in the back should help out that much more.

A Cap is actually like adding a turbo to your motor.

Great video my guy ! A few things I may add with your voltage drop in the rear .. you might need bigger or better wire .. ofc or larger gauge - those audiopipes pull some juice - over 300a each .. 40-80a of lithium in the rear and that mechman and you’ll be out of the woods ...14v+ for days

Thank God I have found your Channel. I was wondering about that capacitor Bank you have in the video. Thanks 😊

Great video. I currently run a single skar VXF 12 with a CRESCENDO AUDIO | SYMPHONY S1 PLUS | 2500w amp. I have a Diehard platinum AGM under hood and a XS Power D5100 in rear of a 2019 Camry. This car is a voltage nightmare with the smart alternator which never charges past 13.8. The only way to keep my voltage from dropping was to turn amp down to only output 2000w.

Dude this is a amazing video

I'd like to see how good it works with just 1 of your amps on both 12s. Lots of guys just run one amp that aren't into comps or crazy spl and I'm curious what it would do with a 2000 watt amp and maybe a 400 watt mid high amp,or just the sub amp.

Great video!!!

Takes power to make power. Your doing 👍🏽

I was really hoping the capacitor would have fix the voltage drop.. I have gone as far as having 3 , 110 amp AGM batteries . 1up front & 2 in the rear, plus I upgraded my alternator from a 80amp to a 160amp .. I'll be following your trial's & errors on your electrical upgrade. No other KZfaq channel talks in detail on how to like yours and it's extremely helpful to me , a DIY builder. Thank you for your videos . I pretty much have the same setup as yours.

Caps in my opinion aren't good for long bass notes.. more for instant recharge. never used them, just and more agms or lithium... I have a mechman 370 and I love it... huge improvement.. u will see

So the thing is, your amps are full of caps that need to constantly recharge as they expel their current with each note. Putting a super capacitor back there really just adds another load that the alternator needs to contend with so yeah…it’s allot like adding an additional amp really. It will help stiffen up the current supply as it can discharge faster than an agm battery, but it’s not a support mechanism for the alternator, it’s a drain…so if you’re adding a massive capacitor in, you’re gonna wanna make sure you have a good strong alternator for sure, if you’re not changing out your alternator, you’re better off just adding an agm battery back there & calling it a day

For you to keep your voltage up, you must know how much current your system is pulling, and how much resistance you have. Runs of power is also a factor. If you don't have a strong source in the rear, you must have it up front somewhere, somehow. That's when runs of cable is important. Don't use CCA!!!!! Use OFC!!!!! It takes 3 times if not more runs of CCA to equal 1 run of OFC. 1 or 2/0 of 4 or 0ga OFC is needed. Solid grounds, If not, runs of fresh grounds, being new cars are using weaker metals for weight and cost, which aren't great conductors, like Ford trucks that need grounds ran from the battery to your audio setup direct. Caps are good for burps, and recovery. If you want daily, batteries are the go too, with a high amperage alternator, or 2 depending on how much amperage can be supplied with the car you possess. Some cases, you need to do a step-down converter to keep your car safe. I did my best to keep it short, but it's still is a long comment. It's a lot but like the saying goes, to make power, you must supply power!!!!!

Old basshead reborn through my 15yo stepsons recently installed first system. That being said great videos man. Editing info and attention span kept. New sub.

I bought an ioxus ultra capacitor and recently had the same issue and strangely enough, I found that cleaning the front terminal and connectors increased and steadied my voltage at the back. Could it be as simple as this, I'm monitoring to find out.

Well first off love the content. I have those amps myself. I’m kinda feeling like the are just really inefficient AF they put the power out but they suck more than others. Also the difference between the front and back voltage is that there is so much more resistance in the back. All the 1/0 wire and batteries and amps it’s causing a drop just from flowing through all that. I believe that just moving you front battery to the back and none up front will make a worlds of difference. It’s worth a shot. I did it and it helped I have a 2009 Saturn Aura with the same engine and a mechman 250 and 3 of the 2000.1 audiopipes I stay around 12.60-14.20

similar to what i was having when I was running a fosegate 1200rms amp with a stock 110 amp alt tho mine was dropping to about 11. Killed a few amps like that tho. about a year ago I upgraded my alt did the big three and killed 2 amps one was the fosegate and the other was a sundown fullbridge 1500 my voltage was going all over the place. I then added a xs power d3400 in the trunk and well have had no issues at all voltage drop at idle isnt bad while driving its good.

Keep rear agm then add cap to it!! Then you will see difference!! Also check wire to rear make sure you have proper size! Maybe add another run!! Add more grounds can help as well!! Bigger alt is always good!! It is combined resources that you will need !!

Telling you bro, even as good as it is without the second batt, the cap bank AND 2 AGM's will be even more consistent. I've now got 2 runs of 0 gauge ofc straight from the alt to the batt and cap, only time I can get it down below 14 is when I'm mad clipping and idling. none the less, mo power is mo better baby.

What do you use to set your gains? And when setting your amp gain, where do you have your bass knob set? I ask because it seems your bass hits max before you get to half on the bass knob. Unless you just prefer it that way.

What your reading at the back is what is being supplied to the amps so it does help over all but I still believe you would have benefit from a lithium phosphate more than from the super cap

I agree with most comments. It's not a replacement. It works in conjunction with. One thing I'm curious of tho is what wire your using to go to the back. OFC. or CCA.

run a dedicated ground from either your alt case or battery negative ( if you don't already ) and i bet it'll help. if you do this, try not to ground anywhere other then said wire or you might run into noise issues.

You need 2 runs of 1/0 to the back and a high output alt would help alot also

Bro your the basshead Steve Harvey got my sub lol good shit

The Ultra Capacitor is not meant for audio. This is my personal opinion. It caused my speakers to hum. Drove me crazy, rewiring the entire system before I realized it was the ultracapacitor. Replaced with my previous capacitor and my radio is back to normal. Basically $200 wasted. Sitting in my shed useless. I do know it allows utility vans and vehicles batteries to last longer.

I've been using maxwell ultra caps and they made a world or difference in my wifes car I got the one off Amazon in the battery case I'm going to try in my car I just need a resistor to charge it last time I used Christmas lights.

All day with that Mechman. alt!!! 😆

Run ground cable from the capacitor to grinded clean part of frame and on from the battery same thing and add another set of caps if it does not help and calculate your amp usage to balance with caps always leave room with a 50 to 200 amps of room and alternator upgrades if you need

You need to check how you have your subs wired inside the box. Make sure they are actually wired for 2 ohms or 4 ohms or whatever they are meant to be wired at. You can use the multimeter to check what each individual sub is running at. That happened to me before when the subs were wired to run at 1 ohm and the amp was rated at 2 ohms x 2 channels and they were actually running at .25 ohms and the voltage dropped like crazy.

Very nice video,If I was you,I would build my system around the amount of draw for your amps,if your amp draw 300 amps @1ohms,I would build my electrical around that concept,if it takes to have one 300 amp high output alternator and one cmaxx lithium battery,that's what I would do,That's just me.Good luck.

Capacitors are designed to charge and discharge quickly so that thing dropping fast is exactly what you would expect to do they don't hold very much power. It does stabilize your battery as you saw because as you said it is taking the brunt of the load. The more you can support the capacitors with current the faster they will bounce back. So once you get a alt, they will love all the extra input current. Also yes if you have more batteries you can always add them to the system. Capacitors play nice with everything. The capacitors actually don't care that they're low voltage The capacitor doesn't have a set voltage point It's like a container for energy so it can be at zero just fine The main thing is you can't try to overfill it, so too high a voltage is a issue, but your voltage is fine. Since this is a smart unit it would keep itself safe anyways, thats part of what you're paying for. Get your voltage monitor straight at your amp, that's where it matters. Anyway I hope this all helps!

Before you change Alts, can you test to see how many amps and or watts you're pulling from the current electrical system? I had 2 of the AudioPipe Mini 2ks and I was pulling 4800+ out of them in total, metered at comps. I sold those and bought 2 of the Soundqubed 2250s. They don't pull as much power but they sound cleaner. I run a 250 amp Alt, Big 3, 2 Deka 110 AH Group 31s in the trunk and a normal Interstate battery under the hood. 3 runs of 0 gauge front to back.

My cars are never worthy of a mechman...lol

How long does is take for that ultra cap to lose its charge when you unhook it, mine depletes almost immediately if I unhook it

It'll be a night and day difference once you install that alternator ,you also need to read up on ampere's law you're simply pulling to many amps your stock alt can't keep up and will blow prematurely you don't need to do any wiring up grades if your already using OFC wire that wld be a waste of money I personally wld of put the money you spent on that ultra cap towards lithium I know those ultra caps aren't cheep But great video 👍🏽👊🏽✌🏽💯. #🔊🔊🔊

These have a recall for internal shorting and causing fires. I think I will spend a bit more to avoid the added risk of fire.

you can notice a .7 voltage drop across a cap. have you run a positive and negative from the front battery to the back. the cap will charge 99% fast but that last 1% takes a lot of time. depending on the size of the cap it. you can look up the electronics formula for capacitor charge. the high amp alternator will give you more amps at a higher rpm. make sure you are getting more amps at idle with the upgraded alternator. who cares about the higher 300 amps at 2k rpms. the 200 amp alt may give you more at idle. they rewire the 3 coils inside the alternator to change its performance characteristics. they also upgrade a few internal parts like rectifier's and such. its about that idle current. do the math on your amplifiers output in amps at 12 volts. how many amps are you pulling? you need to try and cover that. of course it is a dynamic load so take that into account. you may peak at 300-600 amps? not sure your amplifiers ratings. but the extra agm battery and cap together should handle that peak. if your dropping under 12 volts you dont have enough supply.

As I'm sure you've learned caps are like your shocks, they just dampen out the highs and lows or with voltage the lows. A battery can't supply power quickly, a cap can't hold a lot of power so together you get the best of both, the cap steps up to the plate long enough for the batteries to do their job. And, I have no clue why I even watched this, I was looking for something totally didn't and don't even have a system in my ride.

ok...anyone know if you can you run 2 super caps between the amp and batteries and how well does it work??????

Check your grounds... add more ground than you have supply.... and ground to Alternator if possible. Thatll.help ALOT!

II got a Skv2-3500.1D on my 2 12 Evl box and I ran into the same issues. I snagged 2 200ah AGM batteries from Interstate Battery and I would still get the Voltage drop until I got a JS 240a Alternator...now my lowest voltage has been 12.6. Im hoping with a Supercap Ill stay above 13V. Get an 240a+ Alternator and you'll do just fine, I'd get rid of the Lead Battery and go with 2 AGMs or Lithium.

It's a pity that in Brazil we don't have access to this very expensive capacitor to import

I just ordered a VXF-15 with the SKV2 1500.1d...I'm going to do a1/0 big three but I hope that's all I need... I don't want to do all this. It was running fine with the EVL 15 but it was a little less watts.

I think running another power wire to the back( I don't know how many you have now) would help on the voltage drop from front to back.

You couldn't run the extra battery and the capacitor at the same time?

I know this is old but I hope you added the other agm probably a lot better results since the capacitor isn’t a battery just a power booster and the extra amp hours would’ve been better

Nice

The positive ioxis terminal is connected to what exactly?

I'm very very late to the party. I currently have 2 of these ioxus ultra capacitors in parallel for 750 farad and xs power d3400 up front 1/0 ofc big 4 and 4/0 welding cable to the back. Stock alt 105 amps pushing a stetsom 3k. Just bought a mechman 320 and deaf bonce 4000.1 to push my single Avatar SVL 1547D2. Do you think my setup will run that amp as is or is it mandatory for me to get a reserve? Thank you

Wish there is more info for hybrid vehicles. I'm keeping my total wattage of my whole system under 2000w one kicker cs amp 800 w at 1 ohm on one 1 12 kicker r. And 360.4 cs amp for 4 6.5 ks 2 3.5 ks with built in crossovers

Get you some amps that are rated at 12v. So a low voltage high amps type amplifier.

Hey bro. One more question. Can I ground the negative on the super cap to the chassis or must I run a negative from the cap to my negative on battery? Thank you!

I’m trying to find out can you run more than 1 ioxus Ultra Capacitors?!? I bought 2 hoping to keep the voltage from hardly dropping at all any info will be greatly appreciated!!!

I second what others have said about putting your AGM back into the mix. Do the Big 3 when you put in your alt and put some decent battery terminals on your battery under hood. The lines all going into that battery the way you have it is dangerous and you’ll get a better connection using proper separate terminals. Excellent video and serious props for your editing skills.

you seem very into your car and wanting to do it right, id advise in a ground distro block to avoid having 10 cables.

Im 9 months late to the party, but the fact that you have higher voltage in the front than you do in the back indicates an inadequate current path between front and back, either positive runs or ground path. If you're using a body ground that is most likely where the majority of the drop is.

Say brother, can you tell me what hardware came with your UC-31 Ultra Capacitor?

Did it help bro? I'm thinking of buying one but there's no other videos explaining if they help or not. Thank you

Capacitors can most definitely be useful but nothing beats having enough lithium and charging amps stay in the high 14's. Ive used super capacitor banks before. I play alot of rebassed music with steady bass lines and without sufficient battery reserve my caps would drain and it wouldn't recharge until their was a break in the bass.

The Mechman will solve the problem.✔

How do you charge the super cap

I am facing the same dilemma with my system. I have a Mechman 400 amp alt and in addition to my stock battery, I have another AGM under the hood in my GMC Sierra. I have 2 JP 23v2s running a Resilient Sounds Platinum 18 each at 1 ohms. I get voltage drops down to the low 11's and high 10s if I push it. Huge drum kicks wit hrock music like Hoobastank's The Reason will drop it down fast, but it comes right back, so having a ultracap should help a bunch, but on long low drops like rebassed songs with sustained bass notes below 30 drop the voltage and it stays there. I don't know what do, other than maybe try lithium bank to keep the voltage up.

Super old.. but if you really want caps to work at top performance you need a full lith battery that will discharge faster to the caps.. It all starts at the alt though.. from there the wires then the battery, then the secondary source of power batter, cap, headway etc.. then amp.. A lithium battery of same rating as an agm is actually about 2.5-3x stronger then the agm.. just cause of how much faster it charges and discharges.. Caps will help if you’re just slightly under total amp draw on an agm where the battery basically trickle charged them.. but when pulling 200amp off a 120amp alt you’re down about 200amp from your demands.. Many try the lithium as the secondary.. this is stupid unless you got a direct feed from the alt to it.. if it’s feeding off the regular agm then it’s still limited by the recharge rate of the agm.. Alt, then lithium then ultra cap or headway bank.. that’s the way to run with these power robbing inefficient amps and subs we have today. FYI to anyone with a trucks.. there is almost always a factory 220amp option in place of your 145-160alt.. you can usually get two of these and a dual bracket kit for less money then a single 320.. keep in mind also once you go above 280amp alt or so.. you become limited in engine rpm’s you can run or you’re over spinning the alternators.. most don’t like to go over 5k and as you go larger say 320, 400 etc you’re limited to 4500 even 4K engine rpm cause they rely on undersize pulleys to spin the coil faster at lower rpm’s.. For a daily if you got the space which most trucks do.. a dual 220 setup is the best way to go.. For most a single 220 with single lithium battery is all you need.. worst case add some headway or an ultra cap unit and you’ll be good to about 4500watts on music with normal driving.. If you demo then this won’t get you there lol.. myself in a daily I’d never go over 250amp alt.. better to run more then run higher power because of the over spin issues..

Do you need the isolator?

Did you charge the capacitor before starting

As it was stated before I am sure you already got your answer. Sure AudioPipe may work for you, but over all that is one of those brands that exaggerate the power capabilities in the name of sacrificing clean power. Sure that amp will put out 2000 watts, but the signal when doing so is flat topped and distorted. First things first, I would check your amp draw from your front battery. Not the voltage. The Draw. Then compare that to the draw at the Amplifier. You also should factor in the use of CCA or OFC, and even if there is a frame ground near by. I would run a separate ground from the ultra cap to the frame. then hook it up like you would that AGM. Just because it has the power, you are still giving it the ability to loose efficiency by not providing the system with adequate grounds. Once you do that as well as your big 3 upgrade your voltage drop issue will be fixed. But again, I also recommend swapping amplifiers for more true rated equipment that is not exaggerated.

What's the class rating for that fire extinguisher?

Ouch!! I saw you shatter your distribution block plastic cover when you pulled the AGM out. Shitty deal. Good video tho. Keep em coming man.

I have 1 1200w Jenson with the power acoustic 2500w amp in a sealed box. I recently fried the battery and possibly the alternator. Will a higher output alternator be enough or should I buy the uc31 while it's on sale

Ultracapacitors are to be used with your current agm you just took out.

Your voltage will be lower closer to the amp.your draining the power wire or the battery.if the voltage up front gets low that's when your using way to much power.ho alt would help alot

Dude yo shit be so inspiring wow

Exocontralto shows a better example of this "cap" bank, even started the car with it. It also comes with a app that show state of charge and voltage. Second, did you say 141db @ "4000w" ?? I did that in a wagon with 1500w singer 18" no modifications to the car. Oem alternator, 1 agm battery up front. Your setup is great, but something not right. Last, Skar recommend 2cf3 per sub, that does not look like a 4cf3 inclosure.

3 agm batteries in parallel with a aftermarket alternator should do the job

But this is at idol voltage, give it some gas and see what it runs at.

i've heard they have a recall and can fail, anyone have any real experience?

The 10+ grounds on your 1 ground battery terminal is un necessary!!!! Atleast get a terminal block instead of 10 connections on 1😖 if those are your amp grounds they need to go!!!! Ground to chassis not paint either. They need to be short as possible and grounded at same location prefably to prevent ground looping which will cause system noise . Your battery should have only 1 to car body & 1 to engine block and make sure the metal surface is sanded to metal. Use Vaseline or terminal sprabtobprotect from rust and corrosion. It also helps with continuity.. Be sure to install the big 3 when you do the altinator cause factory wiring won't cut it at all. 😁😁👍👍

You should review the new version of the American bass xfl 12 they are not 1000 rms no more they are 1500 rms now

How do I get my password to put it in run mode?

Can you charge the super capacitor with a car battery charger?

Put caps before the battery.

Dont yoy have two agms ? If so throw the other one back in along with the capacitor

Do a review on db drive subs

Did you notice if the ultra cap introduced any noise into the system?

< - see the resting voltage - a sound system should be able to run at 100% with the engine off, FYI input voltage means Nothing if your amplifier can out puts more voltage ant the speaker can take - eg the week-link should always be your speaker. having enough CA (CCA) , in a low enough impedance "eg small cable run, large size" .., eg I think you need a bbb (bigger better battery) not an alternator..

This sounds weird but try disconnecting/removing your front battery. I notice better voltage in the rear without a front battery, might work, might not, worth a shot tho I think.

As someone that has worked in electronics for over 20 years it looks like you don’t have enough wire to transfer the power to the back power source