The cards process is explained in the "How to Make Playing Cards" video, and the tiles are done in a similar way, just using label paper and thicker greyboard instead of cardstock for the centre layer. Some of the other things aren't covered yet, though. There will definitely be a multi-method tutorial in the future about binding rulebooks, although you can probably see what I did for this one easily enough in this video; I'll most likely to a make-your-own-wooden-game-pieces video, but it's a lot of work and requires more-expensive more-specialised tools than anything else I've done on the channel. The planet habitat markers might make a quick-tip video at some point but they're a bit specialised. If you do have any specific questions, though, feel free to ask!

I'm not so sure the hexagons would be useful - playing cards are a specific size, but different games have different sizes of hexagon! It's really just hexagons tesselated with equilateral triangles, which any vector-based package (Illustrator, Inkscape etc.) should be able to do. I can empty out and upload the template if you like, but it's only going to be good for a specific size of hexagon!

They're 25mm "clear resin domes", which are sold for crafters to make pretend cabochons - if you search places like Amazon or eBay for "cabochon domes" you'll find a variety available in different sizes - just be careful because there are some glass ones around as well. The same places also sell metal bezels that the domes fit inside, and you can make some pretty spiffy tokens or markers by sticking your circle label into the bezel and covering it with the dome.

Thanks man. It's such a cool idea

Last time I looked into CNC cutters there was one big problem that stopped me buying one - they wouldn't cut through 2mm greyboard, which I use for a lot of the tokens and tiles in game builds. I've heard mixed reviews of the Cameo in this regard - how thick does it actually cut on decent board?

@@DiningTablePrintPlay The latest version will cut through 3mm stock. I use 3rd party blades which are much cheaper and sturdier and just replace them often. Cut slow and it does a really good job. There are also some higher end models available that will cut through leather and such...

I didn't, I'm afraid. It looks a lot more direct-conflict-oriented than most of the games I enjoy, to be honest! (I used to do a lot of miniatures wargaming, so I'm not wholly against conflict, but as a personal preference, I tend to prefer it in 1v1 games only, in games where conflict is literally the entire point.)

It is indeed 3mm!

I was planning to get one done over Christmas, but my video equipment got buried at the back of the under-stairs cupboard! I have the footage for a small silly one but I'm keeping it 'til I at least have another tutorial to release first - hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

One more question how much practise did it take you to make exalant condition cards because today was my first time making cards and they aren’t the best.

Hard to say, to be honest! I'd probably only made a couple of decks the really-nice way before I was confident to get good results every time - but I'd done a lot of other things in the past which were similar enough to transfer skills, if that makes sense. For example - I'd definitely had more practice with a rotary cutter before I started doing handmade playing cards, and that's one of the things that can take some practice to get right. What didn't work out quite right for you?

I didn’t have a rotary cutter because my dad broke it so I had to use a craft knife and I acadently would cut a bit wonky even though I had a ruler. Also I need more practise with spraying the lacker but I think I am getting in better at it. Also when I cut the lines sometimes it would tear some of the paper off the card.

I am using linen paper, yes. The spray-on is a clear acrylic lacquer. It's actually intended for cars - I found the brand in a car supply chain here in the UK (Halfords) as I used to use their own-brand stuff, but this one (Simoniz) is available in bulk at a pretty good price-per-can. The way I do cards here is covered in a tutorial video I did a while ago: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jd99ibV72pvdgWg.html (There's three approaches described in that video, the way I did the cards here is the third one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jd99ibV72pvdgWg.html&t=19m43s

Brilliant, thanks :)

I have no real idea, to be honest! There's probably about three hours' work in the non-wooden parts, not counting some experimentation around things like recessed player boards and the planet tokens that didn't directly contribute parts to the build. The wooden bits are another story, though! Shaping in the first place was easy and quick enough but between the sanding and the painting they probably doubled the time taken!

The files I re-laid-out for the tiles have been uploaded (with DMG's permission) to the BoardGameGeek page for Horizons: www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/151760/alternate-layout-pnp-hexes-easier-construction

I printed the faces on 100gsm linen paper - just a tiny bit heavier than regular copier paper. Then I folded that in half so that the fronts and backs line up, and spray-glued it around a core of 200gsm cardstock.

Awesome, thanks!

It's a corner rounder - I use a 3mm "heavy duty" rounder that's intended for plastic ID cards. The one I have came from a company called Oregon Laminations in the US; the original website is here: www.oregonlam.com/C-006-3MM_3mm_1_8_Corner_Rounder_Cutter_Punch.html but it's available from various resellers sporadically. There are less heavy-duty options which are perfectly good for playing cards, but I like this one because it'll round off the corners of 1.5mm greyboard with ease!

I'm afraid I don't have anything other than the one from the Kickstarter - I just used Acrobat Reader's built-in booklet-printing function. Are you using the original all-in-one file or the one that's broken down into separate rules and PnP components?

Dining Table Print & Play you shared the cards and planets on Kickstarter. On boardgame geek. I'm trying to use the one from Kickstarter and it doesn't work

I think I finally got it to work