We're missing your videos Sir!

Afrotechmods Thank you For Both :)

do I still have to do that if my enclosure is plastic

Why r u not in?

Thanks, very helpful. Can we lengthen the wires by adding longer wires or will that effect the accuracty of the meter?

mick florey Sounds good.

great point! TY

hello, what type of leds do you have on the front? and what voltage for these leds? thank you

@@jeanmaurin5273 I used small standard red/ green led. I assumed that the circuitry included some sort of current limiting. Voltage is usually 1 to 1.5v. Still working!

Its a terrible design. MOSs' blow up pretty easy. I found that a simple 8A XL4016 module does a better job than this as a variable supply.

Hampus Sandberg Yep, installing fuse protection & using heatshink on all exposed terminal connections where safety feature I installed into my version of this project.

***** I have been bench testing a Sure Electronics 2 x 100 watt amp module with my DIY version of this benchtop power supply at 24v 2A running a 500hz test tone over night. I did a thermal test using a thermal imager & the temps where barely above ambient even though my enclosure is a sealed enclosure so I don't think a fan is required for this design.

Those LED psus have fuses in them. I know this is a really old comment but thought I'd reply for others who read.

But you heard him. He's lazy.

The 12v 5a power supply already have a internal fuse inside so there is no problem

Thank you very much for sharing this. 🙂

Thank you for noticing !

you might want to shield those wires to the ground reference

Thanks, very helpful. Can we lengthen the wires by adding longer wires or will that effect the accuracty of the meter?

@@johns2590 You need to use a shielded multi-wire cable for the pots as explained above! Keep as short as possible. make sure you ground the shield braid at one end.

+Donald Filbert Thanks for the feedback.

GreatScott! will I get higher output current from ltc if I'll use 12 v 10 amp power supply as input.?

Did you hear of a channel called "The Post Apocalyptic Inventor"? He is German too and has a lot of creative electronic projects too.

I really like his channel ("The Post Apocalyptic Inventor") ... but now he's moving his lab and it's been a hard time since he's running out of time to post projects videos. Looking forward to seeing what will be coming from now on. Btw, He lives in Cologne, Germany. Also from Cologne is Laura Kampf (channel about 'making things').

Robledo Einstein Mein Kampf!

I would love to see this as well!!

I'm just going to an AC DC adapter for my power supply: www.ebay.com.au/i/263922220439?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=263922220439&targetid=469489693418&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069204&campaignid=1793098931&mkgroupid=74958853168&rlsatarget=aud-497372010363:pla-469489693418&abcId=1139226&merchantid=116254190&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8XtBRDAARIsAKfwtxBqWxCzqCuXbzmGCkSIUDzucEOlcvWIdYDtktyb_-HB6rDzgXsTga4aAoKmEALw_wcB&var=563368613478 This seems like a simple cheap solution. Can anyone tell me why this is a bad idea?

.

@@m2j8 it's safer, use it.

Michael Jenkins it’s not a bad idea :) I’m using external ones too. I’ve got 3 channels on mine and can run it off of a power supply, MacBook charger or a lithium battery.

Dee Jay It's a curse ;-)

washer or forked crimped or soldered lug = professional job, twisted wire = rank amateur. There are plenty of "professional" electricians I know who are rank amateurs when it comes to wire and cable terminations!

And a drop of solder wouldn't go astray.. It's probably fine though..

You should NEVER solder an earth/ground connection. In the event of a high current fault the solder can melt (just like the resistor solder in the video!). Spade crimp connectors only the the IEC inlet. Wrapping the wire isn't the best method, but it's way better than the soldered version!!

@@davidmoore2892 - Agree!

Hey folks I'm a ChemE who occasionally wires up Pilot equipment... I've never really thought about how grounding should be done and definitely have wrapped/soldered before. I will never do that again. Please know that your youtube comments made me a better engineer, and may have even saved a life. Cheers.

+sarowie I would argue that a soldered contact is as good or better, if he just heat shrinked it afterwards for safety.

SteelBlueVision heat shrink is sure enough a valid alternative. I personally still prefer crimping, but it comes down to personal preferences and experiences. Crimping can be done by anyone "following the book", while soldering is a bit of an art. Having bad solder wire, a bad day or a burned out solder tip can ruin the job in the long run, while a crimp is either good or bad at it´s easier to tell the difference.

Ya, I would agree with you here. Some nice crimped male female connectors, or just donut round connectors would be more professional than soldering everything together permanently. Although, if it is just for me and me only, I don't think I would mind...right up until it breaks, and I have to desolder everything just to take the board out lol.

Same circuit, but use the atx power supply. Find out the pin layout.

True.. Have you make this project yet? I'm thinking of using a 12V 10A DC. What do you think? Thank you

Can we use laptop power adapter for ac to DC conversion I’ve 20v 7a one

stoduk crimping is a good idea

Tyler Anthony yep

I used a Uther netbox

+Reason 2 Die Gamer hahahahah

+Efthimis kritikos 72+!

Efthimis kritikos this was two months ago :P

+Reason 2 Die Gamer it's 91+ now

Robert Slackware OH WOW! imma try this but which ones. the high or low voltage?

Proxxon

No reason to shout, though.

I recently done this for an industrial application. A low pass filter then use an Op Amp as a follower/buffer to get an analog out. However the analog voltage output will vary from 0 to whatever the supply voltage is....

زس ؤ

Be careful, without a good understanding of the actual specific circuit and also access to the proper schematic you might easily find yourself causing more problems than the worth of it like sending the psu into an uncontrolled oscillation state and causing it to burn out. Search the web for Arduino based PWM controlled psu or such like. There are plenty of Arduino-based example circuits for such a capability. Rule #1 DON'T assume anything because it makes an ASS of U before ME.

If you want to control this setup with an Arduino, then you will be better off combining the Arduino with a dual digital potentiometer chip to act as a replacement for the two original potentiometers.

You could build or buy a resistor ladder (like an R2R DAC). That would let you control the exact resistance seen by the buck/boost converter. It surely using the pot as a voltage divider to an opamp's input. I don't know if it would be the inverting or non inverting input, but that doesn't matter for our case. You could simply wire up a pot to the board as Scott shows here, dial in exact voltages you want it to work at, disconnect the pot from the board and measure the resistance value of the POT. Now you design and build your ladder, possibly with unequal rungs, to get the precise outputs you desire. You'll want several trimmers in there probably so you can make fine adjustments to get it as exact as you can when you built it. Then by turning on/off certain GPIO pins, you can select exact voltage/amperage settings. Because the precision of the multi-turn POT is very good, and the resolution of your ladder probably won't be, selecting arbitrary settings will depend in the number of GPIO pins you use (the bit resolution of your DAC in this case). I would suggest at least 12 bits of precision as a bare minimum. That would give you 4096 different settings, or another way to look at it, steps of 0.005V (24 volt range)/2.4mA (10 amp range) on your output. It would be hard to get exact values for your application like this (say, exactly 100 mA, or 175 mA), unless you used an uneven rung design. Maybe the first 4 bits chooses a range, and the next 6 choose among exact voltages, and the last 2 move the adjustment up or down by 1% or something for fine precision. I don't know. You'll need to be creative on this, since there likely isn't an exact chip built that will do precisely what you want. That's why you're doing it custom, right?

Exactly

Check this out, very cheap with free shipping cost (www.aliexpress.com/item/200-175-70mm-Waterproof-Plastic-Enclosure-Project-Box-Instrument-Desk-Case-Shell-With-Handle-For-Electronics/32715590944.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.Imm5oj Mine has delivered safely.. :-)

Ichdar Hsb wow this is amazing! Thanks for sharing this. Now I have everything needed!

thanks!!!!

It is currently less than $9usd at www.banggood.com/Portable-Power-Plastic-Shell-Instrument-Case-Plastic-Chassis-Desktop-Pack-p-1067526.html

You might not want to use it, since the material of this enclosure is made from Polystyrol and does not tollerate much heat. If you ever have any problem, this thing might start burning easily. Better stay away from this Polystyrol case! At 50°C it already gets weak. At 70°C it gets kind of soft. At 80°C it can start melting. Glass Temperature is only about 100°C. And Polystyrol is known to melt into drops that start burning on their own. --- Just put this casing into direct sunlight on a hot summer day, attach a heavy electronic load to it and go for a walk. Do not worry to miss anything, the police will call you anyways after your house was burned down. Instead you better get something that does not burn so easily!

i think that would probably miss the point here. How much would a linear lab psu with these specs cost, diy or otherwise?

@@iikkakonola the video one costos like 30 dólar at least..

@@davidfelipecastroarias8137 I meat that linear psu would cost a ton more than switching power supply. The one built here is switching, and really causes a lot of noise when operated. Linear psu:s are expensive lab quality equipment. I thought the comment was like if this video was about Audi and someone said I like bugatti a lot better.

@@iikkakonola not really, im talking about other videos of the same, they are a bit cheaper, since the use old psu just modify ing a resistor for a potentiometer u can get a variable one, though its true I havent seen withe the same use if its possible to control current

Ok, Thanks

ELV DPS5315

Thanks for your quick reaction. Is this a replacement for the one you had before? Did that one break?

he said in the video, it does not make enough amperage, so he may aswell build a new one rather than beefing up the old one!

I don't know

@@mmmm768same

+1

Check this one out, this is the one I used for this project and a few others! uk.rs-online.com/web/p/instrument-cases/7733274/

That exact same enclosure for anyone interested can be found on banggood.com, in fact there are two identical ones for a slightly different price. The cheapest is £7.17 the other is £7.97 (go figure) at the time of writing (Dec 7th 2016). The Banggood site allows you to choose shipping destination and currency so you can select whatever you want/prefer. The direct link to the lowest price one currently is www.banggood.com/Portable-Power-Plastic-Shell-Instrument-Case-Plastic-Chassis-Desktop-Pack-p-1067526.html?rmmds=search Also I'd already decided myself to use the same technique and I purchased a 48v 5Amp switching supply that should adjust to 55volts to use as input to one of these: www.banggood.com/DPS5005-50V-5A-Buck-Adjustable-DC-Constant-Voltage-Power-Supply-Module-Integrated-Voltmeter-Ammeter-p-1062473.html?rmmds=search A voltmeter, ammeter, power meter, current and voltage limit setting and colour LCD panel complete with control knob and on/off switch for £22.22 so everything will fit in one panel cutout roughly the size of just the display in this video. Just add the output terminals. You get a proper 0-50v adjustable supply too. Total cost of 48v switch supply, psu module and case ~ £50 plus some minor parts most of which are already in my parts bins. You can't buy a commercial unit with those specs anywhere that I've found, and in addition if you want a double or triple unit it would be simple to create, needing only a marginally larger case possibly although a double unit would almost certainly fit into one. If you want 5A but don't need more than ~30volts they have quite a nice looking commercial 0-32v 0-5A bench unit here: www.banggood.com/CPS-3205-0-32V-0-5A-Portable-Adjustable-DC-Power-Supply-110V220V-p-934530.html?rmmds=search I plan on also having building an inductance sweep tester and zener tester in the same case especially as the latter will require 50 volts DC to cover most gen purpose zeners including power types. Hope that all proves useful.

Bob Lewis Thanks, definitely worth checking out when I get to designing my PCB

I've just ordered a case so with a bit of luck it might arrive by Christmas! I already had the SMPS and the variable Power supply module.

If you want a really strong power supply, you could sneak into a hydroelectric damn. If that’s not doable, there should be a little lot in your neighborhood that has all the transformers. All you gotta do is climb the fence and attach whatever cords or wires to it and it will power it super good. Mega power ⚡️ ⚡️ ⚡️ 😊😊😊

@@MrRusty-fm4gb LMFAO

+Said Kharboutli yes, i guess, but then you need the lcd display to handle 30A at least

+romantashev You can buy 100 amp ones for a few dollars, the inductor type. 10 bucks for a shunted meter.(~60 amps, better accuracy)

Richard Smith Mind linking it? Quickly searched through Amazon and couldn't find anything for that low of a price. Thanks.

+Said Kharboutli something like that? www.ebay.com/itm/DC-4-5-30V-0-50A-Dual-LED-Digital-Volt-meter-Ammeter-Voltage-AMP-Power-Hot-TXCL-/301775576961?hash=item464339df81:g:0OMAAOSwo0JWKHge

Shunted: www.dx.com/p/100a-3-digit-display-panel-digital-ammeter-w-shunt-resistor-black-dc-4-30v-163498#.Vkm7HXarT1s (Don't believe the 100a claim, its closer the 60a) Inductor: www.dx.com/p/5-5-x-3cm-lcd-2-in-1-dual-display-3-digital-ac-voltmeter-ammeter-meter-black-ac-100-300v-235989#.Vkm6kHarT1s

+Kelly Corbridge Thanks you very much.

awesomefacepalm im making this one soon, mine can do 10 amp

Don't touch mains voltage. That's it.

Thanks. Also, think make a videos about how to make a count down clock with small or large 7 segment displays, and possibly try to do it without an audrino or anything similar to that? (Maybe an audrino for Bluetooth connection or something like that). Also it would be super awesome if you would include the overall cost of all the supplies in your descriptions. It would help us all know if we can afford to make that particular project. Thanks, all your videos are super awesome 👍🏿, keep up the awesome work!!!

I have accidentally touched mains like 15 times when i was young. Not pleasant, but i'm still here. You can feel your muscles vibrate violently at 50hz. It was only the live wire though. If you also touch neutral at the same time it will be a bit rougher.

Richard van Pukkem yes, it feels like getting pin and needle if i dont move

It really depends on what mains voltage is in your area. 220-240v can kill you, depending on the path it takes through your body. 120v is far less likely, unless you have heart ailments or something different about you than the average person. 120v still hurts a little, but it's more annoying than anything. But don't kid yourself. Either of these voltages can stop your heart.

What the fuck is that picture??

chinese vendors probably

PunakiviAddikti yeah i know clas ohlson , because i live in finland, but it sucks. better to buy from amazon

PunakiviAddikti juu, riippu motista jaksaako rakentaa tota

PunakiviAddikti juu täytyy kattoo, kiitti ku kerroit :D

Enclosures can be whichever you want long as it's big enough to hold every thing.

Elektroniker für Betriebstechnik und Ingenieur für Elektrotechnik bin ich. Und deine Anliegen sind gerechtfertigt. Jedoch durch mein Produktionsbudget und Zeit nicht immer einhaltbar.

GreatScott! Alles klar cool. Wo hast du dein Studium gemacht FH oder Uni

TEAREX alias. Paprika FH

+GreatScott! Mit der Begründung solltest du dich vielleicht an deinen eigenen Tipp halten und die Finger von Netzspannnung lassen. Budget und Zeit sind jedenfalls keine Gründe den Potentialausgleich _so_ auszuführen. Zumal du ja selbst sagst es sei Sicherheitsrelevant...

+TEAREX alias. Paprika Vertraue keiner Verdrahtung, die du nicht selbst gemacht hast. )

+SlyTrickyGaming Conrad

+GreatScott! Thank you

+GreatScott! Not sure what Conrad means when it comes to the case -- is there a model/part number I can search or a web site? Thanks

+Barry Stevens Conrad is a German electronics store. Im not sure if they ship to other countries, but i found these on their website: www.conrad.de/de/Search.html?search=gss0 I hope that helps you. :)

Wasn't finding anything I liked anywhere. If they don't ship maybe I can get a part number. If all else fails I'll build something -- Thanks

Ah but see the browny points you get for building your own ^^

only works if you're gay. Building electronic devices isn't going to impress any girl.

Maybe if you build a vibrator for valentine ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Alkéryn ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

+ronettreker Don't forget the DC-DC converter and the voltage and current display and the potentiometers and the main switch and.........

+GreatScott! You didn't understand my comment. The Variable Power supply is represented by the 12 power supply and the DC to DC converter. The rest of the parts are just for a convenient form factor. Not even the volt+curent meter is necessary as you could have just mounted two banana sockets in parallel with the binding post and plug a multimeter. What I'm saing is that you focused too much on the package and not on the power supply itself. What's the purpose of this video? Educational? Not really as there wasn't any insight on how a variable power supply works. DYI? Nope. You used pre assembled boards. Hack? No. You didn't even used any common adaptor, you could have used some laptop or pc power supply, something that your viewers might have, but instead opted for a 12V adaptor that you have to buy from an electronics store. Don't get me wrong, some of your videos look like something made by Ben Heck, this one looked more like something made by Kipkay...

It's a simple modular variable lab bench power supply that even beginners can make. I think I said that in the beginning.

+GreatScott! They can't...because they would need to have the money and access to buy those parts from an electronics store. If they had that money and avaible store then they probably wouldn't even bother building one as they could just buy a fully built one. There's a comment bellow me that even asks if it's possible to build one using a PC power supply. You could have used a laptop power supply which would have given you 19V with 4 to 5 Amps. You wouldn't have needed a step up converter as 19V is enough for a begginer. Don't get me wrong, this video is interesting to watch, but useless for a beginner.

ronettreker Thanks for sharing your opinion. But I have a different opinion concerning this topic.

It can handle 130W but only for a limited time, without added heat dissipation. The long-term output power is stated at 80W.

cool, do you sell these?