Thanks for watching and commenting. We are making clips along the way and will publish another video soon. Watch for it. AG

Thanks for sharing your experience George. AG

Thanks for the comment Aint. Valve spring pressure is definitely one of the major factors. If we want our flat tappet cam to live, we have to do everything possible to give it the best chance at start up. I will be making an update on this subject soon. AG

Thanks David more to come, please watch for it. AG

Thanks Robert, That is standard practice for me, no failures so far. AG

@@goldsgarage8236 What are your thoughts on using a break in 1.3 rocker instead of removing the outer spring?

Thanks for the nice comment and good luck with your build. More content coming soon. AG

Thanks Dave, we plan to video the first start up on my test stand and describe the procedure. AG

Thanks for the tip John. Sounds like you have had some real life experience. AG

Thanks dinoa9608, We didn't get to video that. I will have Mike to talk about it on a future video. AG

Thank you twin Cam. AG

Thanks for your comment Jesse. AG

“upright”; “upside down”. End of triggered correction. 😂

Thanks for the info Steve. We are always learning. AG

@@goldsgarage8236 a lot of these old heads if you look on the bottom or deck side they have the predecessors casting number. I've seen it on the 993s on the bottom of the intake runners and they had 487x, others I've actually seen it down in a water jacket. My 462s had 461 and mightve been in the water jacket. I wonder why they did this, I'm sure the casting plant had a good reason. A lot of those old guys are dead and gone and they didn't leave much behind to tell us why or what some of those numbers mean. The 010, 020 , nickel content comes to mind.

Thanks Dennis. Just putting the pistons in today. We are making clips along the way and will publish the next video soon. The clearances worked out nicely with the forged pistons. We will publish a spreadsheet with all the dimensions. AG

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience Larry. We are always learning. AG

Thanks for your comment Leonard. I aim for 8.00 with the block upside down but It's not that critical. AG

2 ticks past twelve is 2 oclock, 2 ticks past 6 is 8 o'clock

Thanks rjd. I will watch for the Driven product. This engine is not going to sit around very long. Dyno day is July 22. I will have a video of it running this week sometime. AG

Good point Roger, thanks for the tip. AG

Was recommended Grez Off recently, I now recommend it

Acid vat done correctly

Thanks David, Mike did the research and sourced them. We feel pretty comfortable about the start up. AG

Thanks HeadFlow, we are looking forward to it. Getting pistons in today. AG

Thanks Robert. The dyno will tell the truth. Watch for it. AG

Thanks Paul, Just published another one on this subject today. Glad you enjoyed it. AG

Thanks Quenton. AG

We are going to use roller tip 1.6 so lift will be .481/.483 they flow around 230 right there.

Thanks for the question Wayne and sorry for the late reply. If you are you sure the lifter and push rod is moving full trave then the problem is somewhere else? First you have to be sure. To be accurate the best way is a dial indicator directly on the push rod to measure the full travel as the cam rotates. The lift at the lobe for most street cams is .300" or so, but check your cam card for the exact number, or check it against another push rod. If that checks out ok, the next question is do you have pressed in rocker arm studs? OEM rocker arm studs are just pressed into the head and they can pull out, especially if you now that you have a higher lift cam and more valve spring pressure. Check the height of the top of the stud against the others, then inspect where the stud enters the head. If it is as much as you describe it will be obvious. If the studs are screwed into the head, check t see if it is tight, or has it unscrewed? The last, least likely is that the threads on the stud or adjustor nut are stripped. Let me know what you find out, or if you have any more questions. I hope this helps. AG

I removed the intake. The bottom of the lifter is seriously cupped. I have never seen anything like this before. Now I am worried about the cam itself. I really don't have time to replace a cam right now. What are the chances that it is OK? Did I do something to cause this? Thanks for your help.@@goldsgarage8236

Thanks Wayne. Unfortunately your cam is most likely destroyed also. Also the debris from the cam and lifter will likely be distributed in your oil to all the bearings. To fix it right, the engine should be completely disassembled, inspected and cleaned. This is a very widespread problem in the industry. Flat tappet camshaft failures on start up are very common. There are videos on my channel on this subject. More detail than I can fit into a comment for now. DO some research on it and come back to me if you have more questions. AG

Thanks Scott. We will be closer to 10:1 and a little less than .500" with 1.6 rockers. We will see. AG

Thanks Jesse. Yes, we will provide a final build list and budget reconciliation in a future video. Watch for it. AG

Thanks David. They are great engines. I would like to give it a try eventually. Thanks for the suggestion. AG

Easily achievable with the square/rec port l92/ls3 style heads that flow 300+ cfm in stock form. Cam an spring upgrade, maybe intake and they are stout.

@@stevenbelue5496 yeah I have one in a mustang. It was an l96 flex fuel. I didn't have to replace the injectors. It is very stout

Thanks for your comment Gord. I missed this point on my latest camshaft video but I will cover it in the follow up soon. AG

You are correct Shooter. At my age, its not that important!!

@@goldsgarage8236 Haha I heard that. one of the bennies of aging. Not much matters that we thought were so important.

Thanks for the comment medium. More to come. AG

Thanks Glenn. .015" sounds right for Hypereutectic pistons. Are there any other numbers on the pistons to identify them? You need to know. AG

Thanks Wayne. Not sure, I don't have expertise on ECM's. I think you would be ok but I suggest you check with an expert. AG

Thanks Nathan, we will work on that for you. AG

@@goldsgarage8236 thank you I really appreciate.

The paint is called "Chevrolet Orange." You can find it at most auto parts stores. AG

Thank you, Allan

For sure Joel. Your 1991 c1500 I think will have an 880 casting number block, fuel injection, a passenger side dipstick, one piece rear main seal but I am pretty sure it will still have a flat tappet cam. GM phased out their inventory of flat tappet cams in the trucks. Check if it has provision for a mechanical fuel pump if you are thinking about converting to a carburetor. The electric pump in your fuel tank will have too much fuel pressure for a carburetor. Essentially we used all the original rotating assembly, just cleaned and hand honed it, new rings and bearings, a better flat tappet cam and intake manifold. Mike ported the heads himself. We used a .015" head gasket to increase compression. Mikes original engine had flat top pistons so your compression may be a little lower. If you have a flat tappet engine, even an L79 (327-350HP) cam from the 64-67 Corvette, Nova or Chevelle will work well. I think Melling or Elgin make knock offs which are inexpensive. If you do have a roller engine, you should be able to use the original roller lifters. Do some investigation, research and homework (planning) yourself. Let me know if you have any questions. AG

Thanks for the question Jnancelvr. Mike Kimble, can you weight in on this question for me please? AG

Thanks Teabag. Just spray some WD40 or similar on the bores and machine surfaces. AG

@@goldsgarage8236 heard!

Thanks Jnancelvr, I will ask Mike to post this for me. AG

@@goldsgarage8236 you also posted one for $1,600

Thanks for the tip and the link Magnus, I will look into this. AG

DLC?

@@stevenbelue5496 yeah. I guess its wrong saying theyre diamond coated. But anyway.. Godbold said that if he were to build a very longlived engine hed probably go with a flat tappet and dlc lifters over roller cam. So it does seem like a good thing to have.

@@magnusdanielsson2749 DLC is great, but expensive. Only bad thing is I heard if it does come off it'll destroy an engine.

@@stevenbelue5496 not too expensive. A set of high energy lifters are $109.95 while the dlc is $123.95. The pro magnums are $134.95. One advantage with the dlc lifter is that a very good finish is needed before dlc is added. To me this make me think those lifters might have gone through a more rigorous selection screening as a result.

Thanks Mike. Haven't got that far yet. Another way is to put 2 lifters together in the light. AG

Easy with a small block and hard not to beat with an LS, those things make power

Thanks for your comment Scott. AG

Thanks for watching and commenting Jo.AG

He might be an Ai bot

It’s like the whole job, he’s also just a small time KZfaqr, give the guy a break