glad you enjoyed it and good luck on your build!

a e s t h e t i c s ✨

Absolutely, it’s not that hard but gotta treat it seriously and responsibly, for my own sake (doesn’t dump me at speed), for my neighbors’ sake (apartment fire), and for the entire PEV community’s sake (reputation of hoverboards).

Keep the videos coming! Love you're style@@leonchang7596

yeahh that's the idea!

Thanks!!

Thanks!!

Thanks man ☺️

Thanks!! love your battery pack 😆

Love to see that build when it’s done!

glad the video helps! this is the diode I was using: www.amazon.com/SQXBK-Silicone-Schottky-Barrier-Rectifier/dp/B09Y1YD17L/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=36X2OEE5FFAC9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.kwQ9bIdHo63odp_eLgyqrXlk30jYE4djYs6NeWHoV1k8JbKu7UBxzyMLZEBuIuPJaKXpLgsxYdIfcUc_hcShmjC91X6YPclaD2TqVEzCvxM8lg6zqFENvrEHbyh7q4p27prlCNu_0ctRXbV7ygg4w21RD6LDMRKReuHC8orCgUdiN2TcrNFrDDJP8peabiDiHiuB9VtSCPCnwvit78i2ZhD1TR_A8sEvAKIbc6RX0Q8._ZWID2ypE8uGo5tBCnE5tX6zh7puYSOAtzxm7WEJNvA&dib_tag=se&keywords=5a+diode&qid=1712378313&sprefix=5a+diode%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

what's grip tape😂

i like em, looks like my board wearing party wristbands haha, also homebrew rails don't have attachment to wire mounts so i'd have to drill my own holes if i wanna go that route

Got too tired of waiting a month+ to get a broken board fixed and paying anywhere between 500-1k for electronics repair. Those repair bills made me not want to ride anymore. Since then my goal with my vesc builds is to have a high performance board while also having almost every single part be replaceable for cheap and be up and running within a week. When i got started pev.dev, discord, and my local rider community were all super helpful and answered a whole bunch of my questions. Also youtube tutorials on soldering basics, how to work with various types of connectors, cables, etc. were all good resources

thanks! only using hot glue for insulation and gluing down bluetooth modules and other lightweight stuff. It holds pretty well on plastic and on the ubox heat sink (anodized), I have it fell off once on the floatboxx alu (powder coated i think), but it was not the end of the world. Hot glue is never the correct solution but it always gets the job done haha

excited for your build! here's the 100V 5A diode I used: www.amazon.com/SQXBK-Silicone-Schottky-Barrier-Rectifier/dp/B09Y1YD17L they work according to my multimeter, don't really have the courage to bridge my pins haha. haven't tested in summer yet but so far thermals handles hypercharging just fine.

Awesome! Thank you @@leonchang7596

Thanks! I’m an art major so don’t have any education in electronics. Majoring in filmmaking and starting my career as a visual effects artist. I picked up electronics DIY at the beginning of the year when I start building vescs. Just watch a soldering tutorial, a few electronics basics, how to use a multimeter, how to work with JST and XT connectors, how to look at a wiring diagram, etc. and have people you can ask question when you’re stuck and you’ll be fine (friends, discord, pev.dev)! It’s a bit of a learning curve but If an art major like me can figure it out, you can too! Just imagine it’s hot glue except you’re melting metal instead of glue sticks haha

Wouldn’t recommend messing with your GT if it still works. Maybe use the time to research and buy parts, and once it breaks you can go nuts!

thanks! the rail badge is just a piece of plastic stuck onto the rail. you can peel off the float life badge and print the vesc badge yourself, stl here: www.printables.com/model/313551-onewheel-vesc-decal

thanks! this build has around

the short answer is yes, the long answer is if you own an oscillating tool you can also trim bang bumpers to fit torque box

Thanks! CBXR is not the best battery pack for Vesc builds but is certainly workable. Could maybe start on that and upgrade as you go. If you wait a little, pickle’s 15s drop in BMS will be ready and it’ll be smooth sailing to vesc with stock pack/CBXR

@@leonchang7596 Pickle's BMS, I'm intrigued, tell me more. Didn't think the CBXR would be, but have one, those new 18s2p's are expensive. . .

@@leonchang7596 Holy Cow, search for Pickle BMS set off multiple alerts.....please advise.

yeah batteries are the single most expensive component on the board. raw material cost alone is like 300 bucks + the incredible craftsmanship that goes into every pack... definitely worth every penny but definitely still pretty expensive. here's the link to picklebms 15s: pickleworks.ca/products/15s-picklebms

@@leonchang7596 whenever I click those links, I get malware warnings, is there a secure way to look at their products???

No, plug and play not possible yet. Closest that comes to it is picklebms 15s (unreleased) + flowglider box + custom harness. Or the floatwheel GT kit (unreleased)

CBXR is optimized for capacity/range, not performance. Pretty sure they even perform worse than stock XR pack (need double checking). Also they are still 63v pack, comparing to most decent Vesc boards on 75-84v. CBXR is definitely not gonna deliver enough punch to match a GTS. I’m using Mario’s meat pack here, more detail in the vid

What's the difference in the range between the 63v , 75v and 83v?

@@segawalker3302 look at Wh not voltage, Wh=range. stock xr pack is 324Wh, mario's 75v pack has 648Wh, so 648Wh/324Wh=200%, so double the range of a stock XR pack. You can do the same math for your pick of 20s (ex: mario's is 403Wh so 403Wh/324Wh=124%)

you mean the floatwheel kit? floatwheels.ru

Already got controller and motor done so 2 weeks ish but no promises haha

@@leonchang7596 Tony at Fw is about to vesc the gt also. I pumped to get this FM control out of circulation

Yeahhh great to have more options!

Yes but UBOX 12v line has a tendency to die I’ve heard. And it depends on what lights you put in, if you use arduino and WLED you connect via wifi and program them through an app. There’s also a way to make an arduino communicate to the vesc for the direction color changing lights to work. TheBoardGarage has a video on how to implement that. I’m in the process of adding lights to my UBOX vesc right now, but with an external step down from the battery. I’ve heard the 12v UBOX line is crucial for balancing so if it dies you’re going down, which is why I’m hesitant to use that.

yep solid color lights only. light is on when the board is on, light is off when the board is off. You can specify color during soldering if you're using RGB lights (for example if your light has GND, R, G, B, soldering pos/neg to R/GND will get you red light, R+G/B will get you yellow, etc). If you want to be able to control settings and have more features then it's not possible to do that with ubox alone.

woah i did not know about the 12v flaw! can you cite a source so I can read further into that? I've had like 4 ubox80 and have been using the 12v line to drive LEDs on all of them and have not yet encountered this kind of failure.

@@leonchang7596 oh hi Leon, could you share what diodes you used for your charge port?

@@leonchang7596ok awesome. I’ll prob add that in my next set of upgrades when I add a remote.

These things get as hot as ~150-200deg C which is hot enough to melt plastic and hot glue. Although I haven't seen this adopted in other people's builds, I think some kind of cooling consideration is necessary especially if you plan on fast charging. The lid makes the most sense to me because eventually all heat goes through the lid anyways, but I guess you can also attach mini cooling blocks to them and maybe that'll keep it cool enough. Also really don't want a 150deg C thing to just float around in the box bumping into other cables and stuff

@@leonchang7596 ​​⁠I’m just planning on using stock charger but I might just skip them. What kinda things will bridge and short the charger, just random metal Items or is it possible to short it by plugging it in wrong with the charger because that is metal

metal will short for sure, water i'm pretty sure will also short. and i have shorted it once by just plugging in the charger (XLR) on a slight angle and I think the charger (since it's metal) somehow shorted the two pins together. Just really annoying every time it shorts, and the board side male XLR is expensive as heck, 15 bucks a piece! (GX16 is $1 for a male/female pair)

floatboxx is not neccesary, especially if you just wanna fit a controller in. this video details a stock box conversion: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p6-AnZibtZaYmnU.html

@@leonchang7596 I've watched that video several times. Really grateful for your content; I'm working up the nerve (and funds) to vesc my XR. Not many vids out there yet that make the process seem as approachable as you do.

@@therealandrewlund aw thanks! that's exactly what i'm going for :)

yep that's what im doing in the next video. the tricky part is the bms, since GT bms will brick without a controller, so a stock bms bypass wouldn't work. you have to get a balance lead breakout board and wire it to a 3rd party BMS

Hahahahah the lower the nose the less painful the nosedive

Thanks! One day I might be skilled enough to build a battery pack haha

@@leonchang7596 I think you could make a pretty decent one dude

good to hear you have good experience with FM repairs!

FM doesn't repair anything, they just place the whole controller and charge a arm and foot plus shipping. And if you live outside of USA than you are double screw. Vesc is the future and FM is the past.

And remember if you send them a board now pretty sure they’ll update to haptic buzz firmware for you, so take that for what it’s worth…

Lmao Kyle, nice bot reply to try bring FM some positives 😂😂