Yes they can get very brittle but not usually a major issue. I know lots of people with 200k that had never changed them. But yes there are guide rails as well as the upper guide. I’ve only changed the upper guide on mine since I’ve heard that’s the one that breaks down. I need to look into changing out the others. Thanks for heads up.

​@@petescarport NP. The plastic oilers that feed the hydraulic valve lifters have the end-plugs break off at an alarming rate. On any normal M119 today nearly half will no longer be delivering oil to the lifters (the reason for "the M119 valve tick"). Except for garage-queens almost every M119 I've popped the valve covers off of have broken timing-chain guides and enough slack in the chain to jump timing at any moment. It's enough for me to recommend buying a timing chain kit for every higher-mileage M119 car I've serviced. I have seen many M119's grenade themselves over the last 3 years. If you want bulletproof buy an M112, M113, or an M111.

I thought it was 15/40 but 20/40 would make sense too. For some reason the only oil it called for in advance autos screen was 5/40 and autozone had same and in stock. Issue is finding some of these oils in stock. I couldn’t even find a 15/40 at any store. But thanks for the fill in. I will do a little more research but oil pressure seemed great after we did oil change

@@petescarport 5-20 works, but in the summer heat it turns to water basically and doesn't lube as it should, so use a thicker viscosity, if i could upload a photo id show you the oil tempature ratings for the w140.

@@drewone08 I used 5/40 in it. That should be good I’m guessing since it will be a thicker oil at operating temps. If I can find 20/40 i will use next time. I also sometimes add Lucia oil stabilizer. I’m thinkking about adding it

Nice and thanks for the info.

@ Pete's Carport, clog the oil flow through the pump? Or could it possibly be another issue that I should investigate????

Your oil pressure sounds fine. It will drop to 1.5 when fully hot and idle in most engines but should rise to 3 when giving it throttle like you say. If your concerned with the oil light that is most likely a bad level sensor located in the oil pan. The oil light should come on when car is about a half quart low on oil. Hopefully that’s what your referring to unless I missed something else.

@Pete’s Carport Thanks for the insight. I will pull the oil pan and check out the level sensor. Hopefully the oil light goes out then. I've seen a video of the oil pressure sensor under the oil filter. Did you do a video on the level sensor in the oil pan?

Still could be a tube. When the gaskets get old on the oil tubes they rattle. Since we didn’t change them all I can still hear a slight noise coming from the motor so we’re going to change them all for him

Believe it or not, reading some MB history. The plastic oiler tubes where the upgrade to the aluminum tubes. Apparently MB believed that if there was a blockage in the aluminum tubes there would be increased pressure and cause issues. So they changed to plastic tubes so that end cap would blow out of over pressure and not let any major issue ensue possibly that would happen with the aluminum tubes.

Wow. I mean would make sense since mine was a 91 early car

You can either order online or even get from autozone. They are called cam oil tubes. If you need more help message me on instagram. Same name. Thanks for watching

@@petescarport just added you. Mine is Iammikegee. Have you done the ac fix yet?

Oh wow thanks. I ended up just a little over. I did 10ftlbs on them off camera.

Yeah I’ve heard this. I’ve had great success with the uro brand ones. Some people bash them but I’ve got 40k on one set no issues.

@@petescarport yea I think URO has a bad wrap on a lot of parts but in general if you pick the right kind of stuff they’re fine. Plus no one else is making them besides Rausch but they are a lot pricier, have to at least be thankful they’re in the space.