Glad you liked it and thanks for the awesome comment! 😁👍

Thats awesome! Glad you like them 👍

No problem, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 👍✌

Thanks for watching and commenting 👍

Thanks for the comment! Thats great to hear thankyou 👍

Well done, but how did you lock the crank ? I'm thinking just a little movement would push pistons into valves ?

manofweed1 how did you do it? I was thinking of putting it in gear with the break on to lock the crank

Hi, you mentioned you used the locking pin too loosen and tighten the crank pulley bolt? What type of pin is that? I was looking for crank pulley locking tool but remembered your feed back on the locking pin. Also can we just use the locking pin instead of the timing pin from the outset? Any advice would appreciated.

@@Asadkhan-pe2je hi there, I’m no expert but I did do my research and I completed this exact job on my fiesta. So the timing pin and locking Pin are different sizes so only the timing pin will accurately set the engine to TDC, however the locking pin is quite a bit beefier and therefore can withstand the force when tightening the crack bolt. If you bend that timing pin then that’s game over, you’ll need to buy a new one. I’ll just have a quick look where I bought my timing and locking tools from and I’ll leave a link below

@@Asadkhan-pe2je any more questions pls ask, I’ll try and help :)

@@youtuberperson7947 Hi, Thanks for responding back, appreciate the guidance you provided, if you can send the link to the locking pin kit that would be appreciated. I don't have an impact wrench just a breaker bar, I need to think of way to lock crank pulley while I loosen it!

@@youtuberperson7947 Thanks, just trying to prep and get myself in the mindset I can do this :) If I have further questions I will contact you! But Really appreciate it!

😁 thanks for watching and commenting, its appreciated 👍

Thats great! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍

No problem thanks for the comment! 👍

Hi there, sorry about the late reply, this was in my review comment section for some reason, No need to use sealent with the metal gasket and ive never had any problems with leaks after replacement aslong as you tighten the bolts up evenly and enough, also regarding the camshaft bolts no Ive never replaced them or known anyone replace them unless they replace the sprocket and thats just because it comes with a new one, and its not a stretch bolt to my knowlege, it also doesnt need loctite on threads due to the amount its tightened to, it wouldnt hurt it if youve already done it , just may make ot harder to remove again in future if needed, hope this helps 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM hi thanks for the reply that's a great help 👍.

To allow the belt to fully tension properly once you pull the pin out to adjuster, otherwise it wont adjust properly and could lead to the belt jumping out of time when rotated 👍

Thanks for watching and commenting! You can access them in as far as look at them without taking it off but any work on belt or right handed pully requires the bracket to be removed unfortunately, hope this answers your question 👍

Its to make sure the timing belt is fully tensioned correctly before rebuild, failure to do so can put the timing out or leave it slack on one side

If your asking those questions, and dont want to do it properly, mabie you should leave it to someone else... yes you must use a crank pin as its a free floating crank and you undo the top cam bolts to allow the belt to get perfectly timed they are not replaced but tightened back up after the belt has its tension

Thats great news! 👍

toyo toe ah man thats bad! Bit late now but you should never use impact guns on things like that, camshaft metal is brittle..... To answer your question, if the timing was out by a tooth/ half a tooth it would either not start or misfire yes, much more than that you risk engine damage, if its just not starting before you strip it all back down and re do the timing just double check youve plugged the crank sensor back in and the cam sensor ontop of the rocker cover back in or it would never start, as for your broken cam thats bad news, personally id want it changing - that said though it's your car and if its literally just a small part of the end piece where timing bar fits in thats broken and no more it may be able to live with it aslong as you time it all up correctly you could try it (make sure the snapped piece is not still in the top) upto you but the best option is replacement, if you went down that route youd need to check the gapping on the shims with the new cam.... Let me know what you end up doing

Thanks for reply. I turned engine over by hand before starting. There was no binding. When I started engine, there was quite a noticeable rattling sound ( sounded like a diesel) and misfiring. I readjusted the intake cam, could see it was slightly out and all was fine and rattling disappeared. I can only imagine that the rattling was caused by the valves just "glancing" the pistons.

Hi there, it only takes me around 2 hours but for a beginner id recommend just taking your time even if it takes most the day, yeah replace the waterpump, you dont have to but its behind the cambelt so if it leaks youll have to do the cambelt again plus its done the same milage as the cambelt so why your there you may aswell save yourself some hassle 👍

starter motor dosent need to come out, the pin that he puts into the block just above the driveshaft locks the crankshaft in the correct position so there is no need to lock the flywheel

@@Stecoleman10 Thanks Ste, thought that might be the case. Was just worried about this pin shearing or similar.

@@ricicles444 the pin dosent screw into a hole into the crankshaft it just pushes up against a flat spot, you still have the ability to go backwards so if your hitting the crank pulley bolt with a strong impact it will just turn the engine back a little bit if the bolt is seized. ive done about 10 belts on these engines and never had the pin snap on me

+toyo toe No problem! Off is fine because youll find once the engine has warmed and the radiator fan has cut in the coolant level will drop, as all the air is forced out the system, so you'll need to top it up, oh and check the level after the road test (with cap on) too just to double check its still on maximum as the last bits of air work out the system. 😎

No thats why you see me wind the crank back off the pin tighten the pully then wind it back onto it , if you try and tighten it up against the pin it may bend which would give you a headache! 👍

The coolant tank caps are crap, I see that all the time, end up carefully unclipping top coolant hose off bottle to release the pressure then getting some pliers and while holding the expansion tank down yanking the centre part of the cap out, dont try put it back together just replace it after

Hi again, i did the majority of this today, but didnt fancy gunning up the crank bolt once i realisd how the lower timing belt cog isnt keyed or anything, so iv ordered a flywheel locking tool of amazon, omes tomorrow, iv seen everyone saying the crank bolt should be 100NM then 90 degrees, this is a 13 plate 1.25, iv also seen on workshop manuals that its 45NM then 90 degrees, i presume its the 45, just wondered if you could confirm, cheers.

@@sciroccomods better safe than sorry if your not comfortable gunning it, ive never had a problem with it though if done how shown, tbh i have no idea of the lower bolt torque but 45nm sounds abit low so id recommend doing the other one or trying to look it upon a ford forum, sorry cant be much more use without your reg number 👍

No problem cheers, the m14x80mm bolt on the 1.25-1.4 duratec is 100NM then 90 degrees, wait 20 secs then another 15 degrees. cheers.

@@sciroccomods according to my haynes manual the torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 45 n/m plus 90 degrees

Now 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thank you!

Mark Holder if it looks the same engine then yeah pretty much its just a higher cc (i know its a different model fiesta with a face lift but the engines pretty much unchanged)

ALL THINGS JIM Hi thanks for your reply. It looks the same engine so think I will give it a go. Cheers mark

How do you do that?

@@keatonfox1170 Cut the bottom of the ridiculous plastic belt cover, then the new belt can just slip over the crank pulley. Fit the crank locking bolt through the engine crankcase, and lock the cams with the plate, then it's just a matter of rotating the cam sprockets to match.

Hi there, im not 100% sure what your trying to ask, thanks for watching and commenting though 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM sorry i meant when you went to tighten the crank shaft pulley bolt you moved it off the timing stop or locking pin by turning the crank shaft with mole grips, i presumed that was so you dont snap the timing locking pin when you tighten it up, but after moving it away from the locking pin when put the impact gun on wouldn't it spin the crankshaft 360 until it hits the locking pin as it comes round? Hope this make sense this time. Regards Jay

Ah ok, no it doesnt just keep one hand on the pully to stop the pulley moving, the impact gun tightens the pulley against the crank that much so quickley it doesnt have chance to spin like it would if you tightened it manually, not sure if that makes sense but im no scientist aha i just know it works 😂 sorry if thats not much help! (Remember to turn it back against the pin after)

And yeah we do that so it doesnt damage the pin at all, its a nightmare if you do!

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thank you that makes perfect sense, really appreciate all your help and time you have taken to answer my question. Kindest regards Jay😊😊

I have no idea what this means.

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Teşekkürler=Thank you...

Not a problem, thanks for watching ✌

Hi there, its because its the official way ford do it, there reason behind it is the belt cannot be fully tensioned properly or aligned perfectly with them tight, i have seen (and done some admittedly when i was younger and didn't know better) without loosening but its only two extra bolts so the engine can be timed perfectly so i dont see why people wouldn't do it anymore. These engines can seem to run fine being a tooth out (which not timing like shown in video can cause this) and you dont realise until its mot time and it wont pass the emissions, also could idle groggy...... Bit of a long answer aha..... Short one is: its fords official procedure 😁 hope this helps 👍

ALL THINGS JIM thanks for the Reply. Will probably start loosening the cam sprocket now 👍

now that i saw the pic again the ratchet is in counterclockwise mode right?

now after checking at 16:55 i guess it is clockwise. So let me get this straight: at 8.24 the cams are slightly one the right, about 30 degrees. using the ratchet they have to be moved for about 330degrees (clockwise) and then insert the blocking bolt? then at 9.15 after the blocking bolt is inserted i keep rotating clockwise until it hits the pin. during this time the bar is inserted or not? after having it moved fot about 330 degrees and after aligning it shouldnt it be already in the spot where it hits the pin? and most important, crank pulley removal is done clockwise or counterclockwise? since it has stopped on the pin after getting moved clockwise the logic says it has to be removed on a clockwise movement right? then the new crank bolt has to be put on anticlockwise? during this movement where does it support on , does it hit the pin after an anticlockwise movement? is the pin enough to support it since the cams are loose? THANK YOU!!

and most important , how much is the pin log since the set i am buying has 3 pins. Thanks

Yeah they generally come off fairly easy, you can leave it to soak in wd40 then get some heat on it, and a few whacks, also try putting a lever bar behind it on opposing sides and wiggle them both, make sure the bolt is in a few threads though so if it decides to come flying off it doesnt get damaged, youll need to lightly clean the shaft and inside pully hole with some light emery cloth after if its that stuck 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Nice one thanks mate, really appreciate the advice. Will give that a go today

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hello mate, just another quick question. When tightening up the bolt on the cam sprocket I managed to over torque and snap the bolt, I've got the bolt back out....eventually! Now can I replace the bolt with any M10x35mm bolt or should I order one from Ford? They all look the same but I can't find out the grade specifications to compare them. What do you reckon? Only asking because I can collect a pack of bolts from screwfix today but with Ford I have to wait. The bolts from screwfix are BZP grade 8.8 if that helps.

Erm i suppose that could happen somehow but im not sure how if you kept the timing pin in and followed the video, also have you made sure that all the sensors are plugged in because that would stop it starting - ive done it before with the camshaft sensor behind the rocker cover on left hand side and wondered why it wouldn't start realised it was unplugged and plugged it back in then it fired straight up

Sy Richardson you can see the sensor I mean at 5:23 incase your not sure which i mean..

The sensor is definitely plugged in. TBH I watch led the video after I took the water pump off as I thought it was the model with the tensioner separate from the pump. I made right pigs ear out of it and the cams moved independently of the crank and were out of sync. I put the pin in and hoped to be able to turn the crank by hand till it hit the pin and then I could adjust the cams by a few degrees to get the locking bar in but it binded before hitting the pin. I had to fudge it by turning the cams and crank back and forth to get the crank to hit the pin and the locking bar to fit. By doing so I think I've got the crank 1 turn out from the cams. When all back together it didn't bind at all and turned over about 10 times fine and I've checked the timing again after trying to start and it's not moved at all. Only thing I can think is if I turn the crank another 360 degrees it hits the pin again but the cams have turned 180 degrees so if I turn them another 180 degrees they will be correct.

Sy Richardson ah ok i see. To make sure you get the timing perfectly now youll have to do it manually really, to do this you need to get the cams locked up on the top with the timing bar while your cambelt is still on if its turning freely then with the top of the engine now timed up with the bar in remove the belt completely, (dont put the crank timing pin in) then remove all the spark plugs and get a Long screwdriver or a Long stiff piece of pipe and put it into the hole where spark plug 1 went, then turn the engine over by hand clockwise off the crank and watch the screwdriver/ pipe- it will go up and down watch as it comes up and is just about to come back down (this is known as top dead centre in the piston position) when it is at this point wind it backwards (anti-clockwise) about half a turn so the screwdriver goes backward then put your crank timing pin back in. After this wind the crankshaft clockwise and it should hit the pin again after about half a turn. Now your bottom end would be in correct time so you can now remove the screwdriver and rebuild the cambelt in the way shown in the video (dont skip the step where you loosen the cam sprockets) turn your engine over once rebuilt about 8 times to make sure everything is ok, rebuild and it should fire straight up. Hope this helps you

It's working now. The crank was 1 turn out (our the cams half a turn). Thanks.

mark norman Hi there, to undo it, it can be gunned off once the pin and bar are in and its timed up, HOWEVER the bending of pins that happens is where people gun them back up, without following correct procedures, thats why when timing back up we loosen the cam pulleys but still have them timed up with the bar at the back so the belt and pulleys can turn freely while the top of the engine stays timed up, then when putting the crank pulley on wind it (the crank) backwards off the pin before putting the pulley on and hold the pulley then gun it up to tighten it, then you wind it (the tightened crank pulley) back against the timing crank pin to put it back into correct timing position once its back in position tighten the camshaft pulleys back up etc like in video. Hope this has helped 👍

jimmyboy283james OK cheers. So did you just use the timing pin when you removed bolt and not the thicker locking pin. Just read stories where people have bent that timing pin undoing the bolt with a breaker bar because it was so bloody tight.

mark norman no i use the same pin, it wouldn't snap undoing it as it gets turned away from pin not against, however if you going to be using a breaker bar and not an impact gun i would recommend locking of the flywheel with a completely separate tool as well as these that also requires removing the starter motor and bolting it to bell housing but will lock the flywheel in place excluding the need to turn it away from the pin on rebuild, i say this as when using a breakers bar instead of a shock impact force undoing the bolt your manually forcing it undone which could cause the camshafts to want to twist and possibly break at the point where the timing bar is in under the strain, never happened to me personally but i have heard it happen before

Ok thanks for advice

jimmyboy283james hi, how do you get the correct torque when you tighten it? I have a 500nm impact gun but wouldn't that be terribly inaccurate ? I understand u need around 210nm and I have seen others torque in it up against the pin. What's your thoughts ? Sorry im a noob!

The bottom pulley bolt you mean? If you cant use a power tool youll need to remove the starter motor and use a flywheel locking tool to lock the engine then get a socket and a big bar on the pulley bolt

ALL THINGS JIM i now got a power tool..still wont open.. any way i can remove and replace the belt wirhout opening the screw?

Read my reply i told you how... if you havent got a flywheel locking tool to put on when starter motors removed you can always use a friend to hold a prybar against the flywheel teeth to stop it moving while you undo it

Hi there, what you will need to do is screw the crank bolt and pully back on by hand and remove all the spark plugs and stick a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole #1 and turn the crank round with a socket and ratchet.. watch the screw driver rise as the crank turns, if it gets tight or hits something stop as youll be touching a valve ( if this happens youd have to wind it back abit remove the cambelt and time the cams first then continue) assuming you dont touch valves the screwdriver will eventually get to its highest point then start lowering... at this point wind it back abit so its before the screwdrivers at its highest point, put the crank pin in then go forwards again to make the screwdriver go up, it should hit the crank pin and thats its bottom timing mark...if your lucky the cams will be roughly inline or only slightly out in which case you can remove the belt and using spanners align the cams and put the bar into the back. If thats in and the bottoms against the pin your all good 👍

@@SirJimOfBob worked like a charm! much appreciated!

Hi there, I cant remember fully tbh I think it may have been the mk 7, however its exactly the same as the mk 6 engine its just a different shell 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM thanks alot. This video is amazing!

simon500 taylor no unfortunately i believe you have to still strip the cambelt as the tensioner normally bolts onto or next to the waterpump and if you managed to get that far you may aswell replace them all, also even if you could have once you took the waterpump off the antifreeze that comes out after would contaminate the belt anyway, on a side note regardless of milage a cambelt needs to be changed every 10 years 👍

😂 was just about to reply to your other post 😂

1.25, 1.4 is the same though 👍

You could turn down the volume or take your car to a garage maybe ?