Hello, Esther! Thanks for reaching out to us! You can find all of the tools and screw options for the CAMO Hidden Fastener System here: www.decksdirect.com/deck-screws-fasteners/hidden-fasteners/camo-deck-fastener DecksDirect has the complete CAMO fastening system in stock and ready to ship out today! If you have any questions about which items your project requires, feel free to chat with us at www.decksdirect.com or give us a call at 1-888-824-5316! We'd love to help! Thanks!

Hello, Sergio! Thanks for reaching out to us! If you're ever looking to renovate or add on to your cedar deck, you can definitely reach out and we can connect you with tools to make the job easier and last longer. Take care!

Hello, Elgin! Thanks so much!

Hello, Paul - Thanks for reaching out to us! Yes, you'll still be able to use the CAMO Hidden Deck Fastener system for your non-kiln dried decking. Using the Pro-X1 CAMO Tool you'll be able to install at 1/16 inch gapping; check it out here: www.decksdirect.com/camo-marksman-pro-x1-unit.html Or you can use the CAMO Edge Tool, seen here: www.decksdirect.com/camo-marksman-edge-unit-tool.html which allows for no gapping and will keep your treated boards nice and snug. We hope that this helps, and if you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-824-5316. We'd love to help out! Thanks again!

Hello, Jeff! Thanks for reaching out to us! Yes, the CAMO Marksman Pro Tool can definitely be used for angled deck boards! CAMO recommends placing the tool over the high side of the joist so that the fastener remains completely in the joist when fully driven. You may want to lightly mark the deck board where it intersects the joist to ensure it's driven into the joist completely. We hope that this helps, and if you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-824-5316. We'd love to help out! Thanks again!

My concern is the pressure treated will shrink its recommended to install tight for shrinking and this tool separate it it

@@607roger what I do is either buy KDAT PT decking or if that isn't in the budget, have the "wet" (per say) pt decking delivered before the rest of your building material for the deck. Then I measure the moisture content of each board and mark them accordingly. I set stacks of decking up on 2500 pound capacity saw horses, I set up multiple sets. 3 each stack or 400 sq ft roughly for 12-14ft, 4 each for 16-20ft 5 for 24 ft. I snip the banding holding it together. Then I will stack the boards on the second set of saw horses next to the pile I have. I space each row with 1x's and space each row width wise with 6-10 small strips of hardy siding, or zip sheathing or whatever I have from whatever jobs. Something thinner and strong. I then run ratchet straps around my piles that are stacked to tighten them back up. I don't even cover them. Rain doesn't seem to affect anything either unless it rains the day of installing. I do try to keep them in a shaded area. You don't want them to dry too fast or they can check like mad. Mainly the off the shelf super green decking. 2x6 decking doesn't do this nearly as bad or cup or curl anywhere near what 5/4 does. No 1 ground contact 2x6 syp is what I will use 9 times of 10 if a customer is dead set on standard PT decking. Plus my premium 5/4 isn't stocked in longer length than 16 ft. And the kicker is..... A 20ft no1 spib graded ground contact costs me 1.12 per board LESS than premium 5/4 above ground in 16ft. Not the case at a big box store. I always use my hometown mom and pop lumber company's. Now.... Sometimes I don't have the room to do 2x6. In that case, I try to upsell a nice redwood, mohagany, ipe, or even composite or pvc. Depends on the surroundings of the home. Back to PT lumber....KDAT is absolutely worth the money if you need pressure treated decking. Whether 2x or 5/4. You can order it anywhere. You can seal or stain immediately. I like to do this before installing and I can hit every side quickly and thoroughly. Then just come through and touch up after installation. And you can install with the 3/16 gap and it will be pretty well perfect. Or with a good NO. 1 2x6 after 1-3 weeks of sitting stacked, spaced, and strapped. Usually a week for me. My non KDAT are still heat treated, and kiln dried to 15% before treatment. And that makes all the difference in longevity and in how stable the wood is even after a good wet treatment. It's super fast to run down each side with a router and do a slight roundover or a chamfer before stain or seal if you want also. If the budget only alots for off the big box store shelf decking in (choice or select) 5/4 or #2 select 2x you're honestly best off face screwing them with 3 or 3.5 inch (respectively) premium deck screws.. I like fastenmaster trio for 3" face scews, and hillman power pro for 3.5's. Moisture content of that stuff is so high that my moisture meter can't read it. (Over 65% moisture content.... YIKES) Nothing is stronger than face screwing with a high quality screw. And even then it's a crap shot with that low quality decking. If you have to have a hidden fastened deck you can use the camo marksmen edge or I have been using the edge pro and I like mine. They work fantastic on pulled tight pt decking as well. Which we do a lot for covered decks and porches. And 1 last thing I can't stress enough..... Always hit those end cuts with 2% copper napthenate. Or whatever the decking manufacturer states in the fine print. I would also highly recommended wrapping the tops of all joists, beams, stringers, and blocking. Any wood to wood/composite/pvc contact. And imho the most critical places are any built up beams, rims, headers, or end joists. But even solid and rough cut, we wrap them. I use grace vycor peel and stick membrane almost exclusively. Any butyl or even asphalt based wraps will work just fine. It adds decades to the deck structure and years to the decking itself. It self seals around your screws so water will never make its way through into the joist even after the decking starts failing. And of course just flat keeps water out of everything on the top of the structure. Especially important in shaded areas, coastal areas, extreme climate areas. Everyone should use it is where I am going here. Once water is traped between the decking and that structure, it can't dry properly. I always say... "If it can't dry it will die." That goes for most every building material. Anyway....I hope this helps you or someone else in question. Sorry for the book. I tend to be maybe a tad too thorough. 😂 I am extremely passionate about helping others and building science though. Take care! And good luck to ya! 🍻

@Geoffrey Thomas. Usually you just need to snug them down. I imagine the decking was wet when installed. 5/4 and especially non KDAT 5/4 is some whacky, unpredictable stuff. I haven't had any of the camo's break on me in any pt. But since that lumber shrinks so much, I'd say a good little tighten will do the trick. 👍

+Terrance Camilleri Sorry about the late reply. The first screw against the wall needs to be face screwed down through the board. Most people use a screw that matches the decking. Starborn makes a variety of color match screws for all types of decking material. Hope this helps.

Hello, there! Thanks for reaching out to us! When installing wooden floors or decking where you want zero space between the boards you could use the CAMO Marksman Edge Tool which can be purchased here: www.decksdirect.com/camo-marksman-edge-unit-tool.html. This tool is in stock and available to ship out the same day as ordered! If you have any other questions on your deck or construction project, please reach out to us at 1-888-824-5316. One of our deck designers would love to help you out! Thank you again!

@@Decksdirect but that tool only screws one side of your board

Hello, Donald! Thanks for reaching out to us! The CAMO Hidden Deck Fastening System is approved for use with many composite brands including Trex, TimberTech, Deckorators, and more without voiding the warranty! You'll be good to go! If we can help with any other questions on your deck or backyard project, please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-824-5316. We'd love to help! Thanks again!

Hello, Billy - Thanks for reaching out to us! Using non-CAMO Hidden Fastening screws is not recommended per the manufacturer. However, standard 3 inch deck screws should be able to work with the CAMO Pro Tool as long as the screws are a size 7 with a Trim Head. With a 3 inch screw, you may have some extra length when fully installed, however, that shouldn't be too much of a concern. I hope that this helps, if you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-824-5316. Thank you!

Hello, bumble bee! Thanks for reaching out to us! While it's not recommended by the manufacturer, as long as CAMO Starter Clips are installed along the top and bottom edges, CAMO Hidden Fasteners could hold vertical boards in place. You can check out the CAMO Starter Clips here: www.decksdirect.com/camo-edge-starter-clips.html If you have any questions on your project, feel free to give our deck designers a call at 1-888-824-5316! We'd love to help you out!

Hello, Jimmy - Thanks for reaching out to us! Yes, you can definitely use a compact drill to install the CAMO Hidden Deck Fastener. No pre-drilling is required and CAMO recommends setting the drill to the highest speed setting. I hope that this helps, and if you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-888-824-5316. Thank you!

Hi Chris, Yes. The Camo Marksman Pro-NB can be used on narrow boards with dimensions of 3-1/4 in to 5 in. You can find it at DecksDirect: www.decksdirect.com/camo-marksman-pro-nb.html. Please let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks! The DecksDirect Team 1-888-824-5316

@@Decksdirect so the answer is no. This can not be adjusted to use on a 2 x 4. You must buy another Camo tool for that.

Hi, the Camo Hidden Deck Fastener System is designed for deck boards that are 5/4" thick (approx 1" actual thickness)

***** Camo marksman pro. Now although the adjustment knob is difficult to unscrew and hard to readjust, it eventually works. Set to a spacing of 142mm for boards of 140mm. It isn't necessary to predrill using a 3/8" drill set to 2 1/4" - 2 3/8". Besides, my drill bits are too long anyway. Just have to drill a small starter hole. Manually controlling the drill is easy. Without predrilling the Camo screws want to pull to the left because the drill bit is at an angle and the timber is very hard. Same for the predrilling drill bit, but where it enters isn't critical as it's out of view. But the Videos don't show how hard it is to adjust for board width. And it isn't important to run the drill fast to drive the screw home. But because my "hard" West Australian eucalypt timber boards can often have a warp, it is necessary to first secure the ends and orient the board so the warp closes the gap between the previous (adjacent) board and the new board. But that means the Camo device has to be hammered down (to bend the board straight. But where do I hammer it down? This is not mentioned because all Ads lie by the sin of omission. I chose the obvious screw guide. And soon realised the best hammer was a rubber mallet. The screws enter at different heights above the joist. There is wiggle room. So I bias the screw to enter highest by holding the drill at an angle. The screws NEVER go in as shown in the videos. All sales videos are lies. But it will EVENTUALL go in, and sometimes faster. I found THE Australian guarantee for the screws.It is very very weird. The coated STEEL screws are guaranteed for the life of the project. What does that mean? I've placed about 15 boards today, and now I'm worried the screws will rust. The timbers I'm using are long lasting. I need a screw to not rust (at all) for 20+ years. Camo will probably be closed within 8 years. So the guarantee is worthless. I doubt the Cam stainless steel screws are available in Australia. But I'll find out tomorrow.

***** Have overcome the warping. Place them so the centre closes. Add screws to both ends fist, then hammer Camo down, forcing the location tongue to spread the centre gap. Obviously not recommended. Job is almost finished. I have only applied a few screws per board because I placed a special ordered for stainless steel screws. Very expensive compared to USA online supplies. The ONLY place to buy (in Australia) is hardware store Bunnings and for a typically brilliant Australian reason they don't stock S/steel. So I only saw the Camo steel screws and discovered their protective coating gets stripped off when applied to very HARD woods. Therefore they'll rust and the Warranty is for the Life of the Project. But that has no definition. Tomorrow I'll test the s/steel screws. I expect they will snap unless I pre-drill 80-90% of the length 1 7/8" with say a 1/8" drill.

***** A rubber mallet is better than a nail hammer. :) The stainless steel screws are strong. They go into the HARD timber I'm using. I expect the black powder coating acts as a lubricant. Thanks.

***** I bought from Bunnings the Camo Marksman Pro and it adjusts between 130-140. The thumb screw on the side for tightening the adjustable end needs to be extra tight. And the end stop should be vertical. just like at the fixed end. Sometimes you have to tap it down with a rubber mallet. This is because the timber boards can often be warped. The end stops of the Camo then act as act as spacers. So fit the board so it bows towards the previously fix board at the centre. Hitting it where the screws go in. When warped, secure both ends first. This means getting off your knees. Yes its hard work, but somebody has to do it. A tight fit (of the Camo) seems to nsure the screw hits the edge of the board correctly. Not too high so you can see it (that's bad) & not too low so it has enough timber at the edge below the screw (even worse in my opinion, because the hole can be filled. I started using their cheaper screws but changed to their brand of stainless screws. #7g x 48mm. Have to get Bunnings' Special orders people to get them. My deck is an exterior deck. Sometimes the stainless screws break. The heads break off so they can not be removed. They also probably don't grip well. So you must predrill. Just a 1/4 inch. About a little less than the width of the screw's head If you don't ensure the adjustable end (of the Camo) is tightly screwed down, the angle of the screw (at the adjustable end can vary. The main advantage in using this device is at the start. When the screw hits the timber at an angle and wants to go flying around. Otherwise the screws could be inserted just using a good screw-drill with a stop break. I applied Alcore over the top of the Bearers and Joists with a small (10mm) downturn. Tap the edges flat with a broad piece of timber for a neat and professional finish. Cutting the Alcore accurately helps. It keeps the timbers dry. Works well. I used 140mm Merbau on Eucalypt red hardwood. That is why the stainless screws tended to break. Into treated Pine should be a piece of carrot cake.

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