Thank you!

Thank you!

I emailed SMT / Harrison on my vintage Tyco Road Diesel 5628 Chattanooga 6-axle locomotive with horn-hook couplers. Sadly, the motor itself, coils, and main parts need replacing.. It was D.O.A. locomotive I got back in the 80's in El Paso.. I followed SMT's videos and my hands aren't as nimble.. I wrecked my dad's Bachmann's 0-6-0 light/smoke with slope tender locomotive.. and found a replacement for him. I got a Rivarossi 0-8-0 yard goat, and a few Athearn Blue Box diesels..

i think the carpet fibers and taking a header on its roof killed it before it was actually worn-out. and then harrison ripped his way in there and saved the day- YAY!

Thank you!

I agree! The videos SMT done, inspired me to do an autopsy on the Tyco Road Diesel Chattanooga 6 axle locomotive. The coils were bad, comutator? was black, and ther wasn't a wire on the bottom part of the motor. Previous person 2-3 decades ago, didn't do a good repair.. Yet I took photos and emailed them to SMT.. I'm not sure what type of road diesel it is.. EMD, GP, SD? The Center weight where the fuel tanks were at, are missing.. It was a 'junk' lot of mis-matched locomotives, scrap junk rolling stock, some were ads I responded to, and found out the previous owner passed away, and the wife felt it would go to a good home. On my other layout, I had some section of storage track where it sat looking like a scrap junk locomotive. I've used rolling stock box-cars, and some tank cars without trucks/wheels as part of an industrial storage site. In my road travels of Texas back roads, I found box cars, tank cars propped up on supports as converted offices, sleeping berths, storage sheds, and tank cars stored diesel or fuel.. mostly on side of the track as makeshift storage tank/sheds.

@@lawnmowermanTX talking smack about a dead guy is bad luck.

@@tommurphy4307 No smack comments about a dead guy. Just that his wife was tossing away a collection of left over parts and rolling stock after the reading of the will and the remaining locomotives were in bad shape with bad commutators and worn brushes. I had to use tooth picks and q-tips. The widow was not a model railroad fan. I was in El Paso back in the 80’s when I rode my bike in this nice neighborhood. I saw the train stuff and asked if I could have it. She showed me the train parts.. I called my dad to help; as he was elated while we recovered what we could fit in a 1977 Econoline 150 cargo van. Only father and son moment we had. Rest of the time he was at Fort Bliss about some possible Russian First Nuclear Strike. Something about Soviet Union starting WW3. No big deal right?

Others were suggesting a hose clamp which I might try.

@@SMTMainline omg now thats really being Red Green lol. Heck duct tape would be featured on that show so much duct tape made a huge profit lol.

@@SMTMainline that could work as well

just run a SMALL bead of rtv silicone around the can that'll hold it. you can just yank it out for shopping later on, clear the stuff off and use another bead to re-anchor it. done deal. what a POS

Thanks, I will probably end up replacing it with a hose clamp but it should work well for now.

@@SMTMainline talk about over-engineering...

that thing would make a lousy yard switcher but a great shelf queen

Thanks a bunch for that comment!

@@SMTMainline "We got a little runner!"

I imagine it would be worse with metal parts, especially if they aren't properly lubricated.

SMT Mainline you’ve got it. I have picked dry grease out like you do, and have test run old units, especially old Lionel locomotives that have seen no lubricant in 60+ years. They sound like a meat grinder at the local butcher shop. Old American Flyer units are similar except the armatures can cook out when people apply too much power to get a dry unit to run. The current draw on the field wound AC motors goes up, the motor tries to run so someone turns the transformer up to full, which is about 20 volts, and poof, smoked armature.

@@markshogan2642 no tiny motor can handle that treatment.

I think model power was still making those starter sets up until the 2010s.

@@SMTMainline wish I could post pictures, I have an AT&T Corp. one, as well as a Model Power. Model Power went so far as to retool the screw on top out of the model and cast the cab handrails in. Other than that, it's the same model.

actually mantua made the first ones for tyco in 1963- i had one. the model power units were first sold in 1965

@@tommurphy4307 I have an AT&T one... interesting that one could market a model with a big, fat screw in the hood back then. While it is similar to the Tyco unit, it is not the same. Model Power has been around since 1970. AHM's model more closely resembles a Tyco, but it too is a stand alone creation of their own. One of my favorite parts of the hobby is traciing a mold thru its many incarnations over the years.

I noticed that after recording haha

It can be quite enjoyable.

Thank you!

just for laughs you could hold it over an ash can and then let go- that would be hilarious

that thing isn't worth the cost of the coupler.

I noticed that after filming.

come on harrison- thats the weight that really matters!

It fits nicely and is more efficient than what would have originally been stocked.

i doubt it- that motor case had the proper notches for those plastic hooks- and some kid dropped it on its roof and broke one of the hooks- i think harrison nailed it.

the idea is to completely stabilize the motor not just hold it in...

Thank you!

@@SMTMainline your welcome I love watching your videos by the way

not only is that an american switcher- its an OHIO-built switcher. the best stuff used to be made in ohio- when i lived there...

harrison needs a bottle of bullfrog snot in his toolbox

It's stock. The gear not engaging is a common problem

@@BlaxlandRidge3 oh wow. See i didn't know that bit. Mine has a open frame type motor it came with like my other AHM locomotives my 2 RS2 diesels have that motor not one in video

@@mercuryoak2 ok

Thanks

there should be a little cover over that worm and wheelset gear to keep that schmutz out of there.

I like this idea.

That might work! Looking at the plastic it looked brittle.. little hose clamps are perfect. Good Idea!

total overkill and it wouldn't completely locate the motor- and it would eventually become brittle and fail from the motor heat.

How did you like the process? it can be a bit tricky at first.

@@SMTMainline it felt good to see it run

i find it hard to believe harrison doesn't have some kind of hand grinder.

I think it was ether rust or old adhesive.

the old mantua-for-tyco plymouths were better-built

I'm a big fan of these little 040s, so simple to work on.

a lot of liberties were taken by manufacturers to fit their drives inside the plymouths- even the bachmann N scale plymouths are a bit fat-looking, but the guys love them and i've been building them up (from parts) like crazy. they are the BEST n scale yard switchers- dollars to donuts. 5-pole spectrum motors, brass worms, metal split-frames and all. i charge them $70 (with rapidos and MTs are a little extra) and they get a sweet-running yard monkey with no complaints. end of story.

take a closer look- one of the barbs was broken.

Nice

I haven't but I'm sure it could be handy.

..and now those things cost a grip- the katos are much cheaper. also i hear the sound versions don't creep as well. i suggest you go to a train shop and test them side-by-side before you dive in.

ANYTHING the wheelsets roll inside of can be considered a bearing. its more the job that it does rather than what it is. how about a plastic bearing- does that work for you?

maybe thats how it got broken

But of trouble getting materials for the factory but I think it should be back on track soon.

Counterweights are overrated. Change my mind.....

"Now that ain't workin' that's the way you do it You play the guitar on the MTV"

@@crewleaderprods but if u gonna put it back together don’t u think u should put all the parts together includin the counter weights ? Also ...the next time u run a train .... run the American Express and or a big steam train. With 3 6 cars and a caboose in the rear . I hav yet to see you do this and nobody else requested it !

its not a counterweight- its just a weight and he's got to go back in there anyway- and harrison knows that weight is needed because it sits over the drive wheels of that POS

If I had a nickel for every time I saw a comment like this, I’d have 2 nickels, which isn’t much and it’s not weird that it happened twice -The Master of Tech, 2021

i keep putting a bic lighter in my tool box but the guys keep stealing it...

see my ash can comment up above.

glue it down- problem solved

@@tommurphy4307 On carpet? Bruh ;-;

I did, corrected after filming haha

@@SMTMainline Nice, that locomotive workbench is a good setup, anything left there is from the last loco you worked on and pieces don't get mixed.

theyre not going to live it down harrison- you better make another vid of you re-installing the weight and all will be well

Athearn still sells the needed parts to repair that locomotive, even fully assembled trucks specifically for the blue box GP40/50/60 locomotives!

@@randallellison6421 oh

yes

I like the hose clamp idea, I think that's what I will go with.

i concur with the RTV- the hose clamp is bad idea

thats weathering

I might.

as he said- it was a temporary repair

I believe they shared designs.

if you really want to get technical it was probably produced by RSO or mehano...

Seems wise

those cost a nickel or more- thats too much, drew.

Are you able to produce gears that are accurate enough and durable enough? If so, could be a cottage industry.

@@j.mcq.8418 On an extrusion one only if the original gear is thick enough, I may say that mostly no, on a resin printer, who knows, I want to try but they are still expensive, but sometime in the future...

weve got shapeways for that- let them deal with it

I've never seen a bearing that doesn't require oil. I know some aren't suppose to be serviced but I can't imagine they would last very long without any lubrication.

@@SMTMainline My classes 101, 145 and 146 from Fleischmann (prototypes came into service during the 1990s) have motors which do not need any lubrication. Fleischmann forbids it in its instruction manuals. Other manufactures do the same. But as far as I enjoyed your videos you deal with rather old if not antique models.

Major shame, haha

they looked like nickel-plated just run it for awhile

that WAS a can motor in there

I have to replace it

That engine has been on there for years, they aren't worth $4,000 but they are rare. I feel lucky to have one but it means more in sentimental value more than any other value.

@@SMTMainline wow, I just randomly ran across it looking for something else. Good to know it's an anomaly. Glad not of interest to me. LOL yeah am aware of the sentimental value of several of your rolling stock and loco items. take care.

there is no riv in the world thats worth even a crap

They are so simple they are hard to truly break.

theyre small and easy for a kid to heave at his older brothers

Sos