Just bought a used mobility scooter with two newer lithium type battery packs and a lead acid battery pack. I was given one lead acid battery charger with the set. So yes, using the lead acid charger with both. Keep the lead acid battery plugged in, unplug the lithium as soon as it is charged. Lead acid likes 100% and being topping off as often as possible, and dosen't like to drop below 50%. Lithium likes to hang out at 40% when not being used, but will go lower with better rebound than lead acid. Lithium hates being over-charged. Not being quite topped off shouldn't hurt lithium.

@@OWK000 YES i HAVE the one in my car from the factory

​@@OWK000disagree my scooter ppl recommend slow change with both..In 6 months I worn out my AGM lead acid I could only get about 12 Kay's outta em now with speed loss after 5...I hope lithium will do me proud..2500 Kay's+ in 7 months...cop that boys&girls💪🤭🤪🤠😁

Yes I had been...I have an xs power lithium battery and it says charge and stuff but didn't say with what. So I didn't know. It charged the battery to full or so I thought it was full charge.

> Have you been charging your lithium with a lead-acid charger? If you mean "a charger without a lithium profile", then yes. IMO most Li profiles are poorly set up, ambiguously documented, stress the chemistry with excess Absorption voltage and duration, and confuse consumers with cycling between Absorption and the reBulk setpoint. I even charge my LiFePO4 bank directly off the alternator (VSR), which may cause sinking spells among onlookers.

💯

Or trust the scooter specialist

@@claydo364 > Or trust the scooter specialist... In 6 months I worn out my AGM lead acid I could only get about 12 Kay's outta em Decent deep cycle AGM *charged to battery manufacturer specs* will last ≥1,000 cycles to 50% DoD before they are end of life (

Glad ot help!

On the battery question, you would need to know the max discharge rate. Usually it is 1C, or one capacity of the battery. So a 10Ah battery would deliver a max constant current of 10A, which isn't enough for the trolling motor. I would consider a 50Ah battery as a minimum size for a trolling motor. I have a video on a 50Ah LiTime

LFP is more like 95-98% effective capacity 👍

@@goodmanfishing Yes, but isn’t recommended practice for storage 50-80%?

Yes but you need to get to 100% occasionally to balance the cells.

​@@somestuffithoughtyoumightl6985I think LFP is good up to 90% unlike cobalt or nickel based lithiums that good to store at 80%

Would it not get there operating the vehicle and it's charging system?@@goodmanfishing

I've not had any problems with my charger. North Texas is fairly humid 👍

How do I know my battery has charged

Two screw drivers 🤭🤭🤭🤫

I would expect the voltage regulator on the bike to target a higher voltage output than the lead acid would prefer. You would want to know the charging voltage. The lead acid may be easier to get, but the lithium should last a few years.

If you change battery chemistry you must change the charger unless your charger let's you change the premiters.

PS You will wind up sending what you save on batteries on new alternators.

I’ll take a shot at it. First, the intention of the video is for deep cycle applications, not cranking. Deep discharging and recharging. Many times they are not recharged as the engine runs. When it comes to cranking, those are typically very small capacity batteries,like 8Ah. The quick starting discharge is relatively a small impact to the battery and it is quickly recharged at the proper voltage. The charge voltage is important and still needs to be above 14v, which is typical for many alternators.

@@goodmanfishing I have a car or two with lead acid starter batteries. During covid we hardly drove the car(S) and the lead acid starter batteries were in trouble. I had a battery go down with a door not closed tight. The battery was 6 or 7 years old. I had just bought a solar panel and cheap pwm charge controller and used it on the car battery to charge it up. We drove to the bank a mile away and then the car wouldn't start again. I walked home got the other car and jumper cables. I ended up putting the solar panel on the battery every day during the day so it would be charged up when we went shopping to buy a new battery. Because covid, things moved slow. I noticed a curious thing. Every day, the battery would retain 1/10 more voltage overnight than the night before. After a week or so I recovered the battery to full working order. It was amazing. My experience: lead acid batteries kinda hate 14.4 volts unless they are all charged up and close to that voltage before the alternator starts charging. The cheap pwm charge controller would charge the somewhat depleted battery at one tenth of a volt more than whatever the standing voltage was. A battery at 11.2 volt finds it much easier to accept a charge at 11.3 volts than 14.4 volts.

what makes you think they are performing just fine . How miney have you tested after 5 years of service and have you tracked alternator failures on those vehicles?

I ve owned 2 boats 1 with 2 batteries.. Boats do NOT need lithium...geez

You find an answer to this question?

@SMarti018 yes, it will top the batteries off.

In many cases, the low internal resistance of a lithium battery can significantly over work a stator or alternator, leading to premature failure. Check with the OEM recommendation.

Thank you for your quick reply 🙌

Hmm, not following? If you have multiple batteries, you should have a bank for each one or you will end up with some imbalance.

Because of the BMS working together. Need to be same mfg. And purchased with in 6 months of each other. Connect in seares to get the voltage you need and parell to get the Amp hour's you need.

some of them check the product reviews first.

The charge profile is still very different. I would recommend a charger with a lithium profile.

@@goodmanfishing Just watched an expert electrician and RV camper saying AGM charger is fine for lithium because BMS would shut off charging at 14.4v even if AGM charger wants to charge it to 14.8v

The BMS might not allow any charge, because it wants to see an incoming 14.4 max voltage, and the 14.8 exceeds that. It's not like it charges to 14.4 and then shuts off. It measures incoming voltage, and if over its threshold, say 14.8 vs 14.4 it just shuts down the battery and charging altogether, and won't even begin to allow it to charge.@@michaelmedicworldoftanks33fps

@@bennyblanko3 well then if it won't allow anymore charge it might charge lithium to 95% maximum which is still fine as it's not going to kill the battery 😁

No, you missed the point. The battery management system (BMS) see's an input voltage above it's 12.4 limit (not battery charge level, but actually monitoring the input from the charger), and instantly disconnects so no charge will come in at all. @@michaelmedicworldoftanks33fps

The BMS will manage the current going to the cells to slow the 0-20 and 80-100 charge rate. But yes, reducing the depth of discharge helps a lot and not fully charging to 100% every time helps as well. You still need to get the battery to 100% for proper cell balancing. A lead acid charger will not do that.

@@goodmanfishing Good info! Let me know if you think this sounds OK. I've charged 4 12v LFP batts individually with my NOCO 10x4 to full capacity, then balanced the 4 batteries with each other in parallel (each battery has it's own BMS to balance it's own cells). Now I'm ready to install these 4 balanced batts in series for 48v and am thinking that I should use my lead acid 48v charger to charge them from now on in operation. The reason being as I suggested above is that the lead acid charge profile will not push the LFP batts to 100% each time and hopefully give them longer cycle life. I am planning on manually making sure that I don't run them down below 20% which really shouldn't be a problem. Does this sound proper to you? I know your video title is about not using the lead acid charger, that's why I found it, but maybe in this way the lead acid charger might it be better for LFP longevity?

@@youtubular007 in theory I don't see an issue with doing that. You will need to periodically balance the batteries and bring them to 100% with a lithium charger.

you are wrong you charge to 100 present the first time to equalize the cells. In normal use for maximum buttery life you operate from 80 to 20 present not to equalize. The battery will need to be fully charged up to five tines to reach its maximum power. You do not have to discharge to 0 . Long term storage is 50 present.

I hit the button all the time no problems. Aux on the dash joins the power of my lithium and my start batteries.

no, the BMS will terminate the charge once it reaches 100%

yes yes yes .......................

Float *mode* isn't the problem. I mean you could "float" at 12.5v if you wanted. The problem is holding Li at high SoC and/or voltage for long periods. In a shore power setting (charging Li trolling battery at home) no float is required at all since the Li self-discharge rate is insignificant. In an offgrid scenario (charging Li from solar) a float of ≤13.4v will let the panels support the loads while allowing the battery to relax from 100%.

Which part do you disagree with?

You really need to get it up to 100% occasionally to balance the cells.

@@goodmanfishing The play is at first base: don't drive the cells out of balance with excess current/voltage in the first place then they won't have to be balanced. I charge mine to 3.45Vpc and they stay within 4-6mV at ~100% SoC.

It is not a safety issue it's longevity issue. Your battery's well last londer if normal operation is between 80 and. 20 present. You need to charge to 100 up 5 times befor you connect in series orn parell to obtain maximum power.

That certainly would work as a "booster". Thanks for sharing.