A bit like brazil nuts, in brazil they are just called nuts

My 1st 4 cars were Alfa Romeos. If you didn't thrash them @ least once a week they would start running like crap, probably because of their appetite for the oil. So maybe an 'Italian tune up' was only a neccessary for Italian cars? But maybe not. Decades ago my boss had a Mercedes. He asked me to take it to the dealer because it had no power. On the way I gave it a thorough thrashing. At first it was definitely sick, but as I neared the dealership it was going much better, so I turned around and thrashed it all the way back. When I got back I gave him the keys and told him it was fixed. After his puzzled look I told him that he should not not always drive like grandpa.

@@gregculverwell This method is called "freiblasen" in german and actually used to be the common practice for removing carbon buildup in engines. Just drive to a long enoutgh highway section with no speed limit and absolutely floor the pedal for 20-30 minutes.

@@CodewortSchinken freiblasen sounds like a blast it clean? I did that with the 1st Alfa I was bought from the my uncle's neighbour. She sold it's to me for the next to nothing because the engine had a bad rattled and no power. I though it was knew the reasons. She only used it to go to the locals shops a few km away. The rattle was a loose timing's chain and arrived with a 14mm spanner in my pocket, which is alleged you needed to adjust it. Then on the Friday night I set out to visit family and out on the farm. Once I got out of on a deserted single lane and put my foot down, redlining in every gear At first it wouldn't getting past 120 kph, but it slowly improved. When it reached 160 I noticed a red globe behind men an a big cloud of sparks. Its though it is had caught fire & stopped. But there was nothing. I was very puzzled and started out again. The flakes & sparks reappeared, but now I knew it was was all the carbon being burnt out. After the about 10 minutes it stopped and the car was going very well.

I do an Italian tune up every chance! Almost every day! Lol

i was just coming here to say zipties and a drill but i was a year too late 😄

@@billynomates920 Iz why you got no mates, Billy.

What i did, sell the car buy an Electric car and drive that car for 100.000 miles with just only changing tires.

@@HermanWillems well u drove already 100.000 miles? i would be intrested in the real result there. :)

link?

nice job man!

This seems like the best method I’ve read. I’ll give it a go

Pretty much what I did on my 1.9 diesel which are known to cake carbon though I used different product. I used oven cleaner, carb cleaner, water, a pick set, wet dry shop vac, and an air compressor air gun. You just have to be careful, you have to rotate the engine and make sure the valve you're working on is closed then scrape the heavy caked carbon with the picks and vacuum it out. The spray the oven cleaner in and wait for a bit, then spray water in and finally blow out with the air gun, final cleaning is with the carb cleaner to remove any residue. Rinse and repeat on each one until its clean. It got the intake area impressively clean.

He is right. This is literally the only thing that works. You can use other cleaners and high grade solvents as well, but the process is fairly easy and the only way to do it.

The spray-in intake valve cleaners are intended for maintenance purposes, every 5k or 10k depending on your vehicle or how you drive. It's not for cleaning out years of caked on carbon build-up on the intake valves as your used car purchase.

I thought it almost looked worse after it was applied.

@@07slowbalt Likely because the fresh layer of carbon build up hadn't dried, there was some very minor cleaning but running chemicals like thy through the engine isn't ideal. Not to mention most manuals forbid the usage of engine additives and cleaners. So you are potentially risking warranty if something does go wrong.

Neither me. 🤣

@@BigHeadClan seems like a sure way to clog your cats.

@Stimpy&Ren high pressure fuel pump and injectors

Paul gave me Richard Ramirez vibes with that line!

@@818_MT-09 hah...well damn

Designed to be thrown away at 150,000 max.

The simple fix some manufacturers are using is having a second set of injectors at the port. It's supposed to be used during performance demands and keeps the intake valves clean. Hopefully more manufactures will adopt this method.

Interesting! How do you get all the gooey crud out though?

Yea well I wonder if a water injection system would help. I ran a homemade one on my tdi for years, and also routed the pcv somewhere else. When I tore it down after 60k or so, the ports had nada buildup and the pistons and combustion chambers didn't look like a diesel. It had black on it but not any thick carbon at all. You'd get a dirty finger if you ran it down a port wall but it was clean as a whistle. My setup blew right in the turbo as I had no intercooler on that setup, so that's easy. With an intercooler it could puddle up and cause issues , at that point it's better to pressurize it and inject after the intercooler.

actually B-12 Chemtool combined with the drill wire brush was a pure magic. Well, the true magic is a wire brush tbh

@@GlennC789 i would also like to know. Although it seems that sucking it out with a vacuum cleaner of some sorts would be bestm

They work if you use them before the carbon gets so bad it requires manual cleaning. Using intake cleaner prior to every oil change and your valves will be spotless.

@@GlennC789 When I did this on a GM 3.0 V6 (100k miles, had never been cleaned - it was bad), I pulled the intake and turned the engine over by hand til the valves I wanted to work on were closed, then used a set of long picks to break the bulk of the softer crud off. If you use steel picks, be careful not to score up the valves. Then I used a shop vac to suck as much of that crud out as I could. Then, I sprayed some CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner directly onto the valve stems until the little pocket they sit in in the head was full, and they were submerged in the stuff, and let it soak for a bit. Then I uses several sizes of long handled copper and nylon "bottle brushes" that I bought at Harbor Freight to scrub off the rest of the crap, then blotted it all up with shop towels. Don't suck it out with a vacuum, I imagine it would explode! After I'd gotten the stems and back of the valves pretty well cleaned up, I turned the engine to open the valves and scrubbed the mating surfaces between the seat and valve the best I could with a thin but stiff nylon brush. Then I moved on to the next cylinder. All in all, I think it took me a solid 6-7 hours (like I said, they were in bad shape). Now, the CRC cleaner is meant to be sprayed into the intake with the engine running, like the product shown in this video. I did use it that way after the manual cleaning, but it would never have gotten through the buildup without some manual action on the valves, as bad as they were. But I do believe the stuff is legitimate for routine maintenance, and would probably prevent the buildup from ever getting that bad to begin with. Here is a video about the stuff I used (I have no affiliation with them at all, I'm just a shadetree mechanic): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iMmGd71yxtuzaGw.html

I owned a Throttle body injection Chevy truck....those were the days🤣

@@gatornation3889 yup I had an old ‘89 S-10 Blazer 4.3L with TBI. I took off the air cleaner once and watched the cone sprays, kinda fascinating.

@@peacefrog0521 that was a bad ass engine that 4.3

Stratified makes a "5th injector" kit. It is about a grand and comes with it's own fuel meter system. FSI and TSI I believe.

Better use sea foam every 8K miles as a preventive measure, no more build up.

@@90210sky sea foam in to the gas tank?

@@alexandro6126 you can use it in the gas tank, but I meant to spray into a vacuum line once a month or so, easy and convenient.

The best way to clean up carbon build-up is to go nuts 😉

Quality fuel has nothing to do with it. And changing oil slightly early won’t do anything. No matter what you do you WILL get carbon buildup.

@@theofficialwizard2753 Vent the PCV into the atmosphere, that will fix it. 😉

@@theofficialwizard2753 but with the newer engines there's combined port injection with direct, which should help with cleaning the carbon

just buy a Toyota or a Lexus, they have port and direct fuel injection, so no issues when it comes to carbon build

@@doctorwarpspeed8779 I am concerned more about my home Earth than a stupid car engine. Thanks God, not everyone thinks like you about releasing it into the atmosphere. Just take off your manifold every 70k-100k miles, soak valves with B12-chemtool and remove the gunk with a drill wire brush

Fords f150 I think offers this or at least has port injection one one motor still

What makes you think Port Injection is better at idle?

as far as im aware, the port injector on the d4s system is only used on cold start and during warm up? im sure it still helps

@@Buddahknife I do not believe that is true. I believe it is used generally at lower RPM; and sometimes simultaneously with direct injection. I'm sure Toyota has all this figured out as to the advantages of doing it that way

@@Buddahknife it is also used as you describe

Anecdotal evidence is not proof something works

Yeah ive seen a few videos where guys use an inspection camera show gunked up valves, use crc and then show the valves again and there is a good 70-80% reduction in the build up.

Plastic manifold = no VOC cleaners it will turn into jelly. :)

I made my own vacuum attachment that goes over the intake port and bought a sand blaster and walnut media. Was way better than a can of cleaner when I was done. Used a clean vacuum filter and reused the media for each intake port.

exactly, now how do i figure out if my brasilian build 2016 VW engine is GDI or port injected? if I ask in english no conclusive result appears and I have no Idea how to write or read brasilian. is there an international GDI database?

@@naotamf1588 GDI should have injectors directly in the engine block, while port injection should be before the intake valve, in manifold. You should match them easily by looking at the position of injectors on the engine.

@@robertfattaruso1280 Show us the video please? Id like to try this set up

I agree. The biggest benefit of DI fuel systems is to the auto manufacturer, to meet ever-increasing fuel economy standards. Even a 1-mpg improvement can make a difference to a carmaker - while adding hundreds of dollars in maintenance costs (i.e., media-blasting) to the car's owner, negating fuel cost savings.

youre right but most vag engines before 2015 in the us dont have dual injection

Toyota D4S is your friend

GDI engines are actually a no brainer. That is currently the most efficient fuel delivery method. Compare 2.0 engines of today to decades ago; almost double the HP and better efficiency. Take into account today's fuel has been diluted not just with ethanol but a bunch of additives (try evaporating gasoline and see what percentage of additives are left. Add to that all of the emission controls vehicles have and you can see how much more efficient engines are today. How you ask? Direct injection is one piece of the puzzle. The other is fuel delivery PSI. Manufacturers will just keep increasing the fuel pressure to keep the marketing scheme going.

Stratified makes a great little throttle body(sort of) injection system. It is $900.00, but you don't need to mess with a meth injection system( although there is a port for meth as well).

So I have a big question for you how many miles on that Tucson ? Also did you have to take off the intake manifold to inspect the valves I have a 2020 Tucson aswell new and I run a catch can but would like to inspect the valves someday without having to remove the intake manifold like I had to on our 2016 Tucson. All I gotta say manually cleaning the valves sucked bad lol your back is going to hurt lol.

@@henrytom5824 Around 30k on the first cleaning. I'm not removing the intake manifold, just the pressure/temp sensor from the intake manifold (two screws only). I use a borescopes camera to inspect the valves before and after through the sensor hole. It's tricky but doable. For the cleaning itself, I just peel the sensor a bit and spray small doses of the valve cleaner with a small syringe.

Berryman 0996-ARM B-9 Chem Dip Parts Cleaner This stuff works to get rid of carbon buildup like nothing else and it doesn't cause any damage like some decreasers would. I haven't tried this but not doubt would work; injecting the stuff into the valve port while it's closed and let it sit for a couple days.

​@@levthelion I agree. Hest!!!

Definitely right I’ll try with a cold engine next time

Did not see the vid but i know what worx - egr/carb cleaner sprayed directly in the intake (through throttle), the stuff that went out of the exhaust 😲😲😲 EDIT: though the guy who sprayed it sprayed too little, 500ml can and there's still more than 2/3rds in there

Works for cleaning TDI intakes for me 👍

@@monkymind4316 IIRC like 4 or so hours of labor. I'd check to see what book time is on pulling the intake manifold, and then add on at least an hour to blast the ports. I'd probably say 2 to 2.5 hours to pull the manifold and then another 1.5 hours to blast. If you really want to know, I would give them a call and ask them. If you have access to the equipment to blast, the job is really easy and it's a pretty simple DIY with basic tools. HTH. Take care.

Don't forget to drain the blinker fluid on the Tesla first

BUT! On a Tesla, you don't do the Italian tune up, you do the Martian tune up! Make sure you follow the right procedure! 🤣

Really? Your Tesla? Carbon?

Insert the pipe in your battery pack and start the process, you will get awesome economy with burn motor😂

😂😂

if they do that they could just fix the actual problem anyways

Toyota literally has this what are y’all smoking

Where Paul inserted the chemical line you can buy a boroscope for your phone and fish it in to see the valves

@@kevinmallon8692 I was thinking the same thing while watching this video. I have a wifi boroscope. I’ll try it out and check soon.

@@mohammadkamran5862 let us know how it went with your car Mohammad

If used since new they have been helping you. They just won't fix a already bad buildup

Driving it hard doesn't help anything. The sad fact is that all these direct injection engines are going to need intake valve cleaning every 50,000 miles or so. Walnut blasting is the way to go.

Yep, keep the carbon inside the engine because “climate change” 😤

Gasoline is a great solvent, and it doesn't cost $5 a can.

@@NuMooX so are you saying when they spray the CRC can into the intake we could actually put some gasoline down there?

@@NuMooX gasoline is no where a powerful solvent as valve cleaner

so your not sure if it actually is keeping them clean?

I think that'd be more applicable to carbed or port fuel injected cars since there you do have gas run down the valves whereas in GDI it'd only maybe clean the pistons

Exactly my thoughts when I saw it. As the original owner of a B6 Passat Wagon, I Love the design of older VW wagons they built back then. And they were quality vehicles even with their small quirks like excessive oil consumption and carbon buildup.

The carbon deposit can be blasted with dry-ice blaster with a tip-nipple between 10mm-20mm and then air cleaned with a pressurized air-gun.. no more carbon deposits super quick !

@@poplaurentiu4148 If all that could fit in the MAP sensor hole and without removing the intake manifold or fuel rail. If I have to remove it, I'd use a walnut blaster. Your technique may work also 🍻 I hate these direct fuel injected cars. Port injection or electric the way to go. Just add more gears to be at a lower rpm at cruising speed, if they want to save fuel. Direct injection and auto start systems ends up burning more time and resources as it requires more frequent fuel pump replacement due to higher pressure, fuel injectors replacement as the seals goes bad on them when removing to clean the carbon, and starters replacement from repetitious ignition. That's not even factoring in the time or resources to get and stock those parts on the shelf. But the government likes the tax money, the dealer likes replacing and over charging for parts, and the people can care less because there's no pride in ownership (lease and replace cars in a year or so). So that small amount of fuel a direct injection system might save does more harm than good. Like said, just more gears lower rpm would equal the same proficiency.

Not true, did mine at home and there are many kits available online starting at $100

​@@juanramos2745 ONLY if you already have the blasting hardware. Otherwise you're investing in a blasting setup which is going to be a fair chunk of change.

< $200 total at harbor freight ask me how I know

I did mine at home with walnut blast. Just used small blaster and shopvac hooked up to suck away the walnut shelling

How long did it take you to perform the cleaning? At 45k I’m wondering if I should try this stuff for shots and giggles or say fuq it and do the cleaning at 60k or 75k.

@@mexifinn7830 I’ve used the sea foam shortcuts - it’s a waste of time and money. The manual cleaning is really not too hard. Follow the DIY video and make sure you have all the right tools. It took me about 10 hrs - taking my time over 2.5 days. I could do it again in about 4 hrs I think.

Did you spray anything on the valves to help with removal? Gasoline, solvent?

easy on an inline 4. Whole nother can of worms on any larger motor...

@@peterjordan9321 not easy and not snake oil, liqui moly and CRC make great valve cleaning and TURBO cleaners for GDI vehicles

No but I used the Sonic Diced Ice media. Its the best

The walnut shell will burn up as long as you're not filling the cylinder, it's the carbon you're breaking loose that you really need to worry about.

Doing mine at the moment . How did you crank the engine over to get the last 2 valves?

@@edencovich6148 I hope you have figured it out. But I just tried to start it which moved the valves.

I just use a little bit of water from time to time. Just plain water. It works great.

No, but there’s many people who have used WMI, and they still got plenty of build up.

@Lassi Kinnunen he is talking about cleaning the carbon from the valve while the engine is running. The carbon forms when the gasoline hits the HOT valve and some of the heavier constituents stick and burn to the back of the valve head. I've head the best results by adding small amounts of water to the intake while the engine is hot. This causes the carbon to crystallize and break off. It's a sort of a steam cleaning action.

@@3dw3dw Correct , same result as driving hard when there is mist in the weather ...

Based on what I’ve seen, water meth will at the very least prevent build up, but not necessarily remove old build up.

Did the catch can help?

@@djsoulfilter too cold in the great white North… gotta wait for spring

Every 60k miles is very infrequent for a car.

@@catinthehat5140no it's not

direct injection gets better fuel economy aswell, they are typically tuned leaner than port injection and can run more ignition timing since the fuel mixture is added close to tdc and isnt mixed with the air until the last possible moment resulting in alot less chance of detonation.

You can't "stick with it" because no manufacturers offers a port injected engine since 2015 or so. So, if you want a new(er) car, you have no choice. Soon, it's gonna be the same with turbos. You'll get a tiny engine with a turbo, instead of a V6.

@Shane people are going crazy over carbon deposits. Yeah so carbon builds up , as long as it doesn't block the valve from seating it's not a big deal. Every 100k get it cleaned

Can you elaborate more on what the crc method is? Is it using that crc intake and valve cleaner spray? If so how do you do it.

@@abdulelahahmed4027 Yes, that's the product. You spray it into the intake in bursts a couple seconds apart, not just spray all at once which can do ring damage, while the engine is running approx 2500rpm. The detailed instructions are on the can, or you can do a web search for directions.

Maybe some have better tolerances in the piston rings?

What car do you own

@@1234aren I have a Corolla and a CRV

@@feddy11100 ok thanks I have a hyundai I've been trying look for something that can help clean up the carbon

@@1234aren seafoam spray will do it. It may kick an engine code for misfire after you do it. It's temporary. You can either wait for it to clear itself or clear the code yourself.

@@1234aren I use CRC intake cleaner and let it soak for several hours.

@itsadubsession my guy, nobody will ever be able to fix a worn out engine by revving it up. the deal is, old engines tend to gunk up, and if you drive like and old lady for small periods of time, it builds up! that's why sometimes even low mile engines start to act up out of the blue

I hear the latest technology requires the BDN technique (Bofa D's nuts)!