Thank you all for continuing to offer terrific video ideas like this one! Product links below but highly recommend shopping around for the best possible price. Thanks again, Todd Sea foam: amzn.to/2Qn2rgx Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/2EnUOEb Candle: amzn.to/3ggQ0gR

Applying hot wax to your nuts just sounds like a really bad idea.

The correct way to loosen a nut with candle wax is to pour the molten wax into your eyes; the pain and adrenaline will increase your strength to a superior level. Perfect for those stubborn nuts and bolts.

This guy is the high priest of weekend warriors. Providing answers to all of us who seek and question these things on our way to The Box Store

Had to watch this one a couple of times. Fantastic tests again! I can hear my father now, "Just get the breaker bar. If it shears we didn't want it anyway. Bolts are cheap."

🤔 this channel needs to be on tv playing nonstop for a year. Very entertaining

so glad you heated the control nuts too. A lot of people (even scientists) miss little details like that.

This molten wax idea probably showed up in one of those Facebook feeds that are shared a billion times and have a trillion likes for no apparent reason. Glad the myth is busted.

Very real life testing, this channel rocks. Love Todd doing these tests for us.

Since youtube lets you add polls in the videos, you should add one at the start of your videos to see what everyone thinks the outcome will be.

No small engines were harmed in the making of this video

One thing I used to use was heat the nut with a torch, then flip an air duster can and spray the bolt until icy. Worked like a charm most of the time. I'd be curious if that were just my imagination or if it's a verifiable action.

An old machinist who worked for my dad used to do this all the time on broken studs on heads and blocks. He told me you have to use paraffin wax, not just any candle. You also have to get the metal very hot before touching the wax to it, like glowing hot, not just a couple hundred degrees. I’ve seen it work dozens of times if you do it right.

You did it wrong. The candle should be made of seafoam. 😉

On all your tests I'm amazed at how big the random difference between bolts/nuts with the same treatment. Without testing you could easily say your favorite technique worked when it was just by random chance that it was a nut that was easier to remove than its neighbor.

This is such a great channel. All videos never leave me with any questions to ask, very thorough and informative...that goes for all his videos.

You answered every one of my questions as they entered my mind, AND you did it in a clear and direct manner. Technical quality of your video was great too! BTW - I've been writing, producing and directing training and promotional videos for over 35 years -- looooong before KZfaq! Great job! I'll keep following - and LEARNING!

When you should be doing something important but project farm has a new video.

The wax is just too viscous to penetrate rust. But I wonder: coating the bolts on wax before screwing them could actually prevent rust from forming and that would be an interesting test

Candle Wax worked for me. You need to heat it up to the point where the wax is literally pulled in to the thread, and loosen while still hot. If the wax drips down, or across the bolt then the bolt is not hot enough.

your videos are the best out of anyone on youtube. I have spent countless hours watching. Been a subscriber for years and I always come back.

Who else came to the comments to read all the "you did it wrong" shade tree mechanics?

Rust has driven me crazy since I was a kid, even as a teen with little money I would invest in stainless steel hardware. Fun test, seems there's no end to age old myths one could check. I remember my Grandfather pouring antifreeze on a stump to accelerate it's decay, years later I found out antifreeze actually prevents rot. Got to admit these myths are fun to explore and every once in a while one turns out to be true.

Enjoy your videos! I appreciate you getting to the main points of your videos and time lapsing which really keeps me entertained and informed.

Good video. In welding class (college) we were taught to use an acetylene/oxy torch to heat just the both, then use the wax. The idea being that the bolt wants to expand when heated and can only expand lengthwise, allowing the wax to creep in. There was demo in class, but I've never used it since. I just use PB Blaster.

urban legend, but wonder the difference between removing when hot verses cold, thanks for the great videos,

I suspect the myth is getting it exactly backwards - candlewax on a nut and bolt should PREVENT rust, because it seals the threads away from oxygen and moisture. That's another property of Loctite that people often overlook, as a rust preventer.

What I think works best is Acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) type F (Ford) mixed 50 50. Have had great success with this homemade concoction found on KZfaq. Thank you to both Project Farms and Muskie channels, great info always.

Great video! If you haven't already tested/compared freeze sprays like CRC or Max Pro to break bolts, please consider testing them in your next iteration of tests.

Coincidence: About noon on Monday was raising the blade on my snowblower by dropping down the skids. Hadn't done anything to them for 20 years and 4 bolts were really rusted. Got two of the nuts off, but the other two had to torque so hard that the bolts snapped, which was fine, they popped off easily. Came inside and watched your video and got inspired. Bought some bright shiny replacement bolts, washers and nuts. Put them in a pan with a bit of candle and heated to smoking. Put them out to cool and they clouded over as the wax set up. It made a tough coating that adheres pretty well. Screw together very smoothly. Gotta help prevent rust. Bees wax or cheese coating wax might be even better. I think it might be a long while before the threads of the nuts and bolts rust together. Seems to be a good preventative.Maybe you can use this. Thanks for your work. Tim

when can I have my lawnmower back??

Another great video, Thx! I almost tried candle wax last weekend when I was working on a rusty brake caliper bolt. Glad I didn't waste my time! Here's a video idea. Apply Anti-seize to bolts before you install them. Then do your accelerated corrosion process, then see how much torque it take to release compared to control.

I have used the "wax trick" only for 1 type of threaded dilemma, more specifically it involved removing aluminum couplers ( aka lovejoy coupler ) from crank shafts in the 2 stroke world. Since most DIY mechanics do not have a "coupler removal " tool due to it's cost and the frequency used they are rare . Most of the time guy's are modifying their own jetski pumps and the crankshaft to pump shaft coupled connection has been fastened together a decade or more prior by OEM technicians. In reality.... the connection has been untouched through more heat/cool cycles than I care to calculate, which may contribute to rigidity of the bond ? The method I have used involved applying low to moderate heat to the coupler , then melting the parafin directly ontop of the crankshaft threads ( center of the coupler ) and letting the assembly cool to room temp. I have come back after the cooling was complete , even the next day and with a soft hammer ( lead ) tapped the coupler with a couple quick "raps" it's loose. I really has worked well for me... ! For some reason " forum boards " are loaded with tales from overzealous mechanics nearly destroying their couplers to get them removed. This is the only time I have used this technique and to date it has not let me down. As far as removing " rusted " fastener components .... regardless of how much heat ( +/- 1500 deg ) which is cherry red !!! I don't know if I would buy into that tale from the farside. Maybe something else was contributing to the success of removal .... such as the extreme heat ,when used on a carbon steel would bake the carbon out of the metal thus facilitating it's removal. Acting as a dry lubricant in between the mating surfaces.... something that only the most discriminating eye may see and analytical mind would propose . Now that I would buy to a limited degree. ( It may be possible ) My .02

30 years ago I worked at a machine shop, and my first job was to clean engines before they were allowed in the shop. The first step being to remove everything. The little pipe plugs in the oil galleries were the worst . I tried penetrants , but all I got were rounded off plugs . The machinist checked on me and saw my frustration, and got the torch and a block of paraffin wax , heated the plug , not the surrounding area, till it was red , then as it cooled he explained that heating caused the plug to swell ,and crush the rust . Then as it cooled enough he touched the paraffin to the area , and said it would penetrate and lubricate the threads as well as the spray stuff would and was cheeper . Seemed to work pretty well .

Not really surprised since molten candle wax is more or less like kerosene just thicker and it needs to be warm to creep. It might help if threads was treated before tightened. Also you miss to try one thing. Most people don't realize that there's actually two types of candles. Paraffin based ones (like kerosene) and stearin based ones (and mixes). Stearin is very different than paraffin. When hot enough it's very liquid and slight acidic. Might have been a better choice (just guessing). Beside I think you should also try kerosene (aka lamp oil, heater fuel). The benefit of kerosene is that it creeps very well even at low temperature - so just let time do the work.

Just love this channel. It's very accurate and well thought out. I'm a scientist and can say his thought processes are exceptional.

The wax works. 80's and 90's GM vehicles were notorious for the fuel lines seizing in the gas filter. When I couldn't get them apart I would heat it with a heat gun, melt the candle in and they would come right apart

pretty great that you read all the comments, some of the ones here are hilarious and gave me a good laugh

I learn a lot from your videos. Thank you for doing the "dumb" experiments I'm not allowed to!

An automotive machinist explained to me how the wax trick works. Heat the broken bolt/stud red hot. Then apply the wax to chill the bolt/stud keeping it only on the stud/bolt as much as possible. How it works is this: The heat from the red hot fastener of course starts to transfer to the surrounding metal (usually cast iron). When the wax changes state from solid to liquid it absorbs a lot of heat thus shrinking the fastener (admittedly only minutely). This expansion/contraction of the fastener in the hole compresses the corrosion in the hole between the two. Thus loosening them. Thank You for your GREAT videos.

I really enjoy these segments.. always look forward to a notifications from you!

You should test marine stuff vs car stuff to see if the extra price that "marine" carries is warranted. Just bought a ⛵

So according to the comments the real trick is to heat the holy hell out of it and the *MOLTEN* metal will come off with wax :-)

Another excellent video. I have a tip on heating things with a torch. Try to put the tip of the flame on the object you're heating. The tip of the flame is the hottest part, not the body of the flame. One other thing. Candle was can be dangerous if around an open flame. My better half nearly burned down her parents home when she was a kid. She was cooking candle was on the gas stove and it caught fire. Thanks again for a great video. I love your work!

I've always been curious of old timers using ATF in diesel fuel as an additive for lubricity and anti gel. As always you do an amazing job.

So you had bolts with Wax on, Wax off.

After watching all your videos I would love to see a tour of the Project Farm and your workshop! 👍🏼

Thank you for debunking this myth. I hate people who claim they have a solution to a problem that is superior to what most people do, by using something that doesn't work at all.

I think he needs his own show on discovery channel, I really enjoy the video’s ,

Dear PJ I have watched many of your video's, and have learned much desired information. You really contribute to this wonderful resource of youtube!! Thank you for your excellent testing, comparison productions. All the best from New Rochelle N.Y.

Another great video the wax definitely didn't work but on the other hand it probably smelt better 👍🔧🔧

More even than the results in your videos, is what you all figure out to test and how best to test. That is absolutely amazing.

Great video! I have never tried this but an old-timer that told me about it, he said to heat until red, allow the gray color to return, strike with a hammer three times, apply the bee's wax, let it cool to room temp then remove. To prevent bolts from seizing on use anti seize. When you get a new can thin it some with oil or the applicator will break before the can is empty. About 40 years ago I wanted to see if the stuff really worked. I replaced the exhaust gaskets on my V8 motor in my truck. On the right side, I used anti seize, on the left side I used grease gun grease. A couple of years later I had to remove the manifolds again. On the right side I broke the nuts free and the nuts came off very easily. On the left side, they fought all the way off.

Dripping hot wax on yer nuts will rip the hair clean off. 😲

8:52 "It did its job, penetrating and help releasing the nut" My god, why am I such a child?!

You can never do a poor job. That’s why you are where you are. You deserve abundance my brother!

Hey mr. Project Farm I use the same awesome Sawzall blades they really are wonderful. And I appreciate the cut cutaway view seeing exactly how far the penetrating oil did penetrate thank you sir

The Karate Kid finds your lack of faith in wax... disturbing. Wax on, wax off... :-)

If I remember correctly from the last time I had a can of deep creep, it actually recommends on the can using it with heat. It's an amazing product either way. Thanks for keeping up the farm science! I love it as always.

I know this may not be exactly "on sublect" since it has nothing to do with wax, but I've always heated the rusted nut, then hit it with Blaster PB. Works almost every time. Great videos. Keep them coming!

Thank you for all your hard work. I just ordered some sea foam deep creep after seeing your excellent videos. Cheers from the uk

What if you used A Torch to heat up a rusty nut and then apply some dry ice to quickly shrink it or liquid nitrogen?

Hope you’re having a wonderful day. I appreciate your work!

Hi Todd. Like your videos.. I worked in a garage that was replacing mufflers and the most difficult bolts to remove on a car are the ones around the exhaust manifold because the studs tend to break when attempting to remove the nut. To be able to unscrew the nuts on the studs, we heated the nuts until they were red - yellow and then sprayed a large quantity of water with a large squeeze bottle to cool the nut as quickly as possible and it unscrewed quite well. . An extra step was done if the stud was rotten a lot, after the heating and cooling, we sprayed loose nut and let it penetrate 10 min before unscrewing. It's been almost 40 years since I did this job, I was 16, and I think the loose nut penetrated quite well between the stud and the nut.

Ok, twice I started to type an opinion, only to hear you doing it already before I finished. Liked that lol. Only thing is; we'd apply heat (extreme heat) to a nut, then loosen while it was still hot. Not cherry red hot but just after it'd die down a little. Expansion, apparently, is key. Heat up the nut to expand and be loose on the bolt, loosen before it heat soakes to the bolt so it'll be slightly larger than the bolt and easier to loosen. Just my opinion. Done it only a couple times. Worked both times but not sure if I remember it correctly as it's been years, and taught by my grandpa that taught me everything I know, which passed years ago. Thank you for the videos.

I had all sorts of opinions early on while watching, but then you addressed them in the 2nd and 3rd tests. For an independent tester on KZfaq you do a really thorough job.

The candle has nothing to do with it. It’s the heat, which has been a bolt breaking trick since day 1. But as always thank you for testing it!

Your videos are an absolute joy to watch. Thank you very much.

Great video as always! I was surprised by the deep creep spray and how well it got in the threads.

I like this kind of video. As an engineer some of the stuff people tell me or I see online is laughable. It's nice when I can go look here, here's a totally legitimate test

Great videos man! I really enjoy your product testing and you engine fuel tests. Keep it up!

I absolutely love your videos you do a great job on them I also have been using penetrating oils for several years with heat and I know that they do work especially on bolts like exhaust bolts those are always hard to get off

Really enjoy and appreciate your videos! Keep them coming!!! 😎

I’ve always laughed at people who did this. It’s just the heat. Finally I have proof. Thank you sir for showing me I’ve been right the whole time.

When I was at trade school learning to be a mechanic we did engine rebuilding. As part of the teardown process our instructor had us heat the theaded oil galley plugs red hot and use a waxlike product called Door Ease. We pressed the waxy stick directly onto the hot plugs to allow the product to wick into the threads. It seemed to make the plugs easier to remove and I think it did penetrate into the treads. That was nearly 19 years ago and I haven't used the product since then so my memory could be faulty. I did google Door Ease and it is still available. I have seen people try candle wax before but not successfully.

Amazing work and very thorough! Always check this channel before buying new stuff! Extremely useful, very happy i found this channel! Thankyou!!

Great video you always do a fair comparison and never fail to show the difference between what works and what does not work. You do a great job, always enjoy seeing your videos, !!!

Thanks for confirming false hype. I rather do it with WD40 than the candle.

I wonder if applying wax to the bolt would prevent rust in the first place. As far as anyone who thinks this works and you just need to add more heat... wax is a fuel and ignites at 249c(about 480f). Adding more heat will only cause it to vaporize and ignite faster.

That was a very thorough an interesting test. Thank you

Once again, I'm confronted with a problem. Someone suggests a solution. I wonder if that solution will work, and find a Project Farm video about it. Amazing, I hope you never stop.

I use a MAP gas torch to heat up stubborn rusty parts to loosen them. Just the heat from this kind of torch works every time. It is much hotter than propane gas. Thumbs up 👍🏻from 🇨🇦eh! 😉

I love your videos. you explain things in an easy to understand way and have fun doing it. I can't wait to see your next video. Keep up the good work. No one would ever know that 90% of the stuff we buy off the shelf is just snake oil. So thank you for putting it into the light.. i used to love PB blaster and WD40. Then i found your videos. Thanks again ❤

Your dedication to nuts and boots is absolutely astonishing!

"Rusting Agent" - Can I buy that at Auto-zone? I need to turn my new car into a winter beater.

Here is tip to loosen or not to have rusted bolts in the first place. Just grease bolts or nuts with copper grease ( on engine ) and from time to time with engine temperature it will break it to threads and you will be able to loosen it easily... Thanks to that method, my exhaust manifold went off so easily...i was so happy that not even one nut broke. ( had to replace manifold gasket )

Thank you very much for uploading this... you're doing a great job. Keep it up...

Dang ... man your video is awesome .. it’s precise .. the luminance and the photography is so good and you have many good devices Thank you for the video

Great job YOUR videos are always informative shinning the light on the truth again wax on to another test well done.

Back on the ship I worked on as an engineer, when disassembling steam line flanges we would use map gas and beeswax on the bolts. It was a trick that many old timers swore by, and worked well for us too. I’m not sure if it was the heat or the beeswax that helped more. Maybe you could try beeswax and see if it’s any different. I believe it’s softer than candle wax so may creep between the threads better when melted.

Excellent work Sir like always,I do really enjoyed all your videos.Keep up the good work 👍🏻

I have had very good lock heating the nut red hot then quick slip a socket on and turn off while hot it has worked well for me. Thanks for your great videos it helps us all

When I was in school we would use the wax method with pretty good success. However I was never told to use a regular synthetic candle. We used 100% beeswax. I’m not sure if that makes a difference or not but that is the way I was taught, And like I said, it seemed to work. I haven’t used this technique since my college days. Heat usually does the trick by itself.

I’ll comment right away. Never had it work for me. Stood right in front of people and watched them do it successfully though.

This works very well. Learned that trick in the 80s. Works great on pipe plugs in engine blocks.

I've been a mechanic for years, and I heard candle wax was an old trick by heavy machinery workers. I was told you heat the bolt up from the opposite side of the nut then melt the wax on the other side of the nut from the heat heat source. The wax will then be pulled through the nut treads towards the heat source. As far as it working I've never tried it lol. I've always had liquid wrench around. Love the videos man hope to see many more.

Maybe wax is on old method to prevent bolts from rusting in the first place. Maybe if you had a piece of equipment that you thought might suffer from rusty bolts, you'd seal them with wax prior to use to prevent internal rusting in the threads during use.

The wax would be handy on a new nut/bolt to prevent rust in the first place.

Your tests alway very in depth i like what you do as a consumer! So thank's for doing wh you do! Thanks👌

The way that heat works in loosening a nut is by expanding the nut lessening its grip on the bolt. Try to avoid heating the bolt as much as possible. You want to remove the nut at maximum heat to achieve minimum grip. If you also use a penetrant, let it soak before heating so the vaporizing effect attacks the rust. When penetrant is applied after heat, it will vaporize and/or burn before penetrating. The combination almost always results in fire so make sure nothing is nearby that will result in you saying “Now that’s a lot of damage!” Man do I want that on a T-shirt! Thanks, Todd!