I would pay for these to be made for my installs for sure rather than buying Metra adapters or MDF rings.

If more than 1/100 people were willing to pay what top quality parts cost they'd be available off the shelf.

@@Zaphod7835 true.

​@@joseluisruiz3789 I really don't see what's wrong with mdf anyhow... cheap, heavy, easy to work with. If you're really worried about moisture hit it with a couple light coats of clear or whatever color you like... presto, sealed. By the time your mdf is getting soggy, I'm pretty sure your speaker needs a better home anyway.

Dear Limbo, I too am a 37 year old guy doing car audio diy for the past 20 years, except I’ve done very few projects in that time. This guy does good work, eh?

Thanks! Glad you like it. Remember supporting our sponsors and letting them know who sent you goes a long way for us making future content. Check out mobilesolutions-usa.com for router stuff!

Thanks! Doing my best to master car audio and use high quality materials and top level technique.

@@CarAudioFabrication well so far so good

You can easily resize with a bearing kit kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lZaAbLmXttDUiY0.htmlsi=aa5HRHARVFJS_oWI

High bay lights in the shop, they are like 15K lumen. Best investment ever.

+sk8rjord1 +CarAudioFabrication Yes, of course. It will just take a bit more time to trace an accurate template for the adapter of the door's speaker mount and the speaker itself, and more time to cut & drill everything accurately. Use multiple pieces of thick, strong 2" wide, clear packaging tape to tightly stretch & tape across/over the entire speaker opening and mounting edges in the door to make a clear, transferable template... Or tape up the OEM adapter ring if there is one. Leave a "pull tab" on both ends of the first piece of clear tape that you layer over the door's speaker opening at the top of the opening to make it easier to remove the template tape without destroying it after you've outlined/marked it. Overlap each successive piece of clear tape by at least 1/4" so that all of the pieces stick & stay together well. Now use a fine or thick point Sharpie marker to carefully outline and mark the perimeter of the door mounting flange and to mark the mounting hole positions on the clear tape. Try to get this as accurate as possible. You can then carefully peel the clear template off of the door's sheet metal speaker mounting area using the tape's pull tabs, and then transfer/stick the clear template tape to your PVC or HDPE plastic or acrylic sheet. Try to find white or a lighter-colored plastic sheet for your adapters so you can see the black Sharpie template lines easier. I would suggest using PVC plastic sheet or inexpensive HDPE plastic cutting board sheets that are available at your local 99¢ store because HDPE is much softer and easier to cut compared to acrylic. Acrylic and plexi-glass are very hard and brittle, and therefore difficult to cut and drill without cracking or breaking it unless you have the specialized bits. And the HDPE plastic cutting board material is denser & heavier than acrylic, which is better for eliminating resonances and vibrations created by the speakers in the door's sheet metal & door panels. You will need a power drill with a 1/4" diameter (or slightly larger) plastic/acrylic drill bit in order to fit the jigsaw blade through this starting hole to make your jigsaw cut for the inner speaker cutout circle in the adapter. Drill your hole for the jigsaw blade to fit through right next to the inside edge of the inner speaker cutout circle. A good quality, fine-tooth plastic/acrylic jigsaw blade will also be very helpful. And a narrower jigsaw blade helps to make tighter radius cuts around curves and the speaker tabs for instance, but you'll have to be a bit more careful not to bend it. Cut with the highest speed setting on your jigsaw, but advance the blade through the plastic SLOWLY! Just take your time to accurately mark your template(s), and cut slowly & precisely with the jigsaw and your adapters will perform just as well as Mark's slick, router-cut adapters. 👍 Maybe Mark can do a video showing this process for those of us who don't have a router and/or a router table plus a full complement of router bits and accessories??? Good luck and have fun with it!

Our*

Shoot me a message via my site, would love to help out with some high quality adapters.

Once you see it, you can't unsee it

@@shorthood2518 what's the chances both of us with the same last name commenting about this screw, what area r u from?

The second you put a screw into MDF coated in anything you break that barrier. It takes very little moisture to degrade MDF, it doesn't need to be a ton of water. Coating takes far more effort anyways, just use the correct material in the first place.

@@CarAudioFabrication opinions... you know the rest. Depends on the application I guess... but I watched a video this morning of a fella with IB subs vented out the bottom of his trunk, great big 75cmx75cm hole with nothing but a piece of foam to keep road grime out.... england.... wintertime... pulled the foam off to inspect, everything looks like new. Very hard to believe that MDF cannot work on the interior side of the interior door panel after seeing that... but I'm not a pro installer.

Doug ran his father's successful car audio business into the ground... So there's that.

MDF is cheap, if you need to make adjustments or make an error with MDF its no big deal, toss it, With 1/2" acrylic you are out $20.