Scotty's new business. Vertical Waste Management, Pushing shit uphill since 2020.....

Oh Scotty, maybe it’s time to park the Turbo Taxi for a while, and go to your happy place; the L67 VN...

The issue with lpg engines is the oil looks awesome and clean due to less soot particles well beyond 15 thousand k. Often goes longer between oil changes and the acid build up in the oil attacks the soft metal of the bearing shell. Chin up mate, It'll work out better now that you've discovered the shite bearings and soft block, just look at it that way. Much better prepared with new bearings and some proper ring gap, plus it made some ripper content.

Mate everything you touch turns to shit. It’s called shitfinger. The opposite of gold finger. Don’t worry though it goes away.

It's amazing what you find when you tear down an engine. What starts out as a simple fix could be a whole rebuild.

More bad luck Scotty, but that first crank will clean right up with minimum fuss by the sound of it. Any favours you can call in with someone who has a lathe? spin the crank up and polish with some 2000 grit wet and dry lubed with oil. Hopefully get you back on track.

Oh man, I feel your pain. Hurdle after hurdle, such a shame. There will be light at the end of the tunnel. After all, you're an Aussie battler.

Hahaha gold mate 👌 anyone who's messed with old cars feels your pain

The head stud striping was a blessing in disguise with discovering the bearings. I’m thinking the engine might not last long which damaged bearings.

Again some good laughs. :D :D How can anyone expect those bearings to be reusable? It's an old truck motor, probably never seen an oil change, and if it had a turbo on it, it's cooked, well done, roasted, fried, smoked and forgotten on the barbie pan. But no worries; that crank, unlike the crooked and rusted one, is still easily salvaged. it just needs a couple of sheets of sanding paper/smooth file and something to spin it. It can even be done with reasonably good results, by using the old block as a spin station. Half an hour job, and it's ready to get installed.

Scotty. Have a look at Ep2 of Skid Factory Aw11 build. They do a bit of DIY crank polishing with a lathe and wet n dry. Not material removing just polishing. May get you out of trouble.

Wise choice on not going down that route with an engine that's 'soft'. Once had to pull the plug on an engine at the machinist. They wanted to throw fixs at it, and I said I was pulling the plug, it had way to many odd issues, in that case I suspect it had a significant overheating episode at some stage in its life.

I just did a 2011 FG engine swap into my BA xr6, wish I'd gone back to your video in regards to the later model blocks first. Ended up drilling out the block for dipstick relocation and making a custom dipstick shaft. Never doing that again! Have a free ba long if you want it!

The first crank looked good enough from my living room. Haha. It's like LS cam bearings, just don't look at it and it'll be fine. ;)

Another great video hope you are keeping the world down there

Hit up Hare & Forbes for one of their awesome bench lathes and linish the crank yourself Scotty, its not hard, as slow as the lathe turns just watch your fingers. The crank with the whitemetal will clean up like brand new with zero material lost off the journals. I feel for you mate, Had a similar issue trying to make a good 245

I’m not sure I’ve seen a video wherein Scotty was truly disappointed before - I think there were 4 💩💣s. 😂🤣 Hang in there mate! 🍺

Thanks for keeping it real Scotty. We all have those days, weeks and sometimes month. I have three projects sitting around waiting for time, money and some divine intervention by the God of ‘get it done’. Shit happens! But one day all will fall into place, and we will wonder what all the stress was about.

Thanks mate you show me a lot to do with these Barra motors and putting one in my XC GXL

love ya ur work Scotty u have brighten my morning ✌✌✌

You're in Melbourne, it's freezing during summer...

I feel your pain Scotty, have been there with engines before ... chin up mate and keep on pushing on crack test and linish the crank and it will be good to go, a little more cost but it means it’s done properly Keep fighting the good fight mate

Keep on going ma - I still enjoy watching your stuff.

Feel the pain 😂 Awesome episode dude.. Goes to show the reality of this hobby..

Excellent recent videos as to how things really go in the world of car modification. Sometimes you have to admit defeat for a day and pull the shed door closed. The great thing is that the mind doesn't need to be in the shed to solve problems. An idea can come to you while cooking dinner for your daughter or while sitting on the bog :-). Either way, as disappointing as it is to close the shed door in defeat, it's a great feeling to push the shed door open once again, look at the problem and think to yourself.. I think this will work.

Looks like that Barra spat the lure out !! Tough break Scotty but like people have said , if you didn’t find out it was soft it would have been catastrophic judging by the bearings . Time to give Jolly’s another call and get some more Barra’s before the yanks snap them all up !!

Keep on going!!! Its geting better!!

You've had some pretty good luck so far also mate with these engines with hundreds of thousands of kays on them. Im sure budget is a major factor from the big bosses but a linish and new bearings is lucky in my book lol Look forward to the next chapter of Turbo Taxi :o)

Don't get Cranky brother keep the Faith lol 😁

Another great video scotty Love the turbo taxi Don't give up

How’s your linishing skills aka emery cloth to scotch brite pads ... ryobi drill on crank bolt suspended between the two blocks on the outer two journals and see if you can move it along one journal for the remaining two for the polish

It’s good to see that you are showing that building a motor that’s puts out a lot of power does take preparation if you want to make em live ! You should get Spool imports to sponsor some decent rods and pistons and make it more reliable? Anyway I’ll have your bf sump and dipstick lol! I have a fg going into a terry build .

I agree, I wouldn't use that block, it's only going to have more problems down the road.

Scotty, at 4:58 the top piston ring looks jammed in the piston. Has this motor been overheated by chance, as this would explain the main bearing scuffing and can cause the cast iron appear to go soft and the thread holes will pull the threads out of them. I have seen this in the past, which I have seen the aluminium heads go soft as well but that’s very rare. Keep your chin up mate your doing a great job, I love your work.

Hey Scot You should get a waste oil burner to heat the workshop.Burn clean when you get them going.Also recycle your valvoline.

hey scotty, just thought its worth noting that those rod caps should be stamped on one side as to which cylinder they belong to, or atleast my stock FG motor was, also not sure if youre aware but the FG rod bolts are single use as theyre TTY. Hope things get better mate, looking forward to more episodes!

Nice work scotty!

You'll get away with a linish with that crank by the looks of it. I think it'll be fine even catching a finger nail slightly. The one thing I would replace however is the rod bolts. If you're adding power and BE bearings show these sorts of signs of wear the bolts need to go in the bin too. I read somewhere years ago that about 98% rod and big end bearing failures are the rod bolts and the other 2% the rod bolts are suspects. Don't reuse them in a performance application. What happens is this, at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke at high rpm they stretch. This stretching is fine but it has a lifespan or fatigue life. What you're doing by reusing them is expecting say 65% life expectancy to be put through cycles that won't be linear with the first 65% timeframe of the rod bolts' life they have already lived since you're modding the motor to have much higher power and probably ~ 800-1000 rpm more than the max anticipated for a stock engine. See what I'm saying? They are a high load item. This is less applicable to the other engine components so the reasoning for rod bolts doesn't mean you have to rebuilt the whole engine with new parts. The main bolts don't reciprocate like the BE bolts so it doesn't matter (unless TTY type which they aren''t)

I wonder if the reason so many studs pulled out is actually a stud problem not a block problem? Potentially the thread diameter is under size .

Scotty is serious now he has gloves on, lol :) Also mate which head bolts were stuffed and line them up with the main bearing caps and crank bearings and i bet they line up with the same head bolts that were stuffed or that's the reason why the bearings stared to show signs of damage or premature wear, why not get those hi temp and friction aras coated with hi temp ceramic coating that way the engine will last for a very long time, i am sure castlemaine rod shop will help. :)

Rainy day? Its raining bloody Murphys.

That is strange with the studs being pulled out. You might be right about the quality of that block, whether it be porous casting or over heated causing that. Maybe it was a taxi motor and head was off multiple times and they didnt replace the head bolts like you should on the barras. Over stretching the bolts, bottoming out and stuffing the threads on the last pull, last time it was done.

Was that an AvE reference at 6:13? Love your attitude Scotty. This job (and the Trolvo) has not gone smoothly at all, but you keep on fighting. Good for you mate. Depending on how bad those ridges are you might get away with a sand and polish on a lathe on those crankshaft journals. It won't be perfect, but as you say, it's not a high end big budget project by any stretch. It's worth a go I reckon. What's the worst that can happen? You need another engine. You're kind of nearly at that point anyway - I say go with what you've got and take your chances. Polish her up and send it.

Linish at the very least, can you get it reground since you need new bearings?

That sucks Scotty, but imagine if you just stuffed it in and it failed on the first run. Keep grinding mate.

Scotty I'm glad you show us what not to do . . .

Bugger! Hell must be trying to make one good barra from three busted barras for all eternity.

No no no no this can’t be the end. Ok off to the valiant wagon build.

Hey Scotty, I feel your pain, The bf/fg swap isn't so bad, the dip stick has a plug that you just tap out from underneath with a pin punch and then just tap it in the other hole.

Even on my TV I can see so much swarf and metal shavings from your impact. Never impact internals, even if you plan to clean everything. Test it yourself, look at the threads on the bolt, you will see metal shavings. Then try a ratchet

I'm sure you know a few people with half decent lathes, slowest speed with some amrey tape and the crank will come up good, 600-800 Will be mint but take your time

Just get a rockwell hardness test done on both blocks to confirm your thoughts on one being softer.

The block must be green and never hardened properly, had it happen with a black 202 as well, it was the only motor I'd ever seen soft like that until I seen it do it on taxi's motor.

Find someone with a lathe ,chuck the crank on there n get some 400 grit emery paper then all u need to do is hold it on each journal n it will come up good .

I have a BA Barra and am aware of the weak rods and oil pump in this engine, but can anyone tell me if there is anything other big issues with this engine.

Oooooo I felt that pain here in Perth

Cut some emery cloth to size, add some lubricant and wrap a flat shoelace around the crank, one loop, pull taught and work back n' forth, even easier if you have a lathe that'll support a crank/size....not the best most perfect method.....I agree, but it does work

Scotty I love ya stuff man, it might cost a tiny bit extra man just get the crank linished And new bearings is just good insurance knowing you have a fresh engine. Instead of constantly reusing shitty used stuff and ending back to square one. Cause this is engine number what for the taxi? And some good pistons would definitely help. I reckon if you did it with first replaced engine you'd of made 10s long ago. It would have been far cheaper if it were done from the beginning

Don't worry about it Scotty, you're only going to blow it up anyway.

Was the engine with the threads pulled a taxi engine? They are also green tops...

Scotty just didn't catch a break in this episode

Don't get cranky Scotty))

Hey scotty awesome work mate.so the 3R rods,are they in the bf2 and onwards xr6t

The process of heating metal up super hot and letting it cool down slowly is called annealing, it softens the metal. I'd say that engine has been extremely overheated maybe? Due to lack of oil and revving to 7?

How far is the ocean from you?? Looks like you’ve got some parts to chuck in the ocean!

This episode on Barranage, we look at another 6. Because street machine and V8’s are a thing of the past 💔. What ever happened to the 440? Didn’t that get some speed parts?

how many times do we need to change an engine??????

Put a lotto ticket on, with all the bad luck you're getting on the cars surely some good luck has to come somewhere else and with any luck it will fix the budget issues with the cars also!

Those bearings didn't have much more life in them - there was going to be some spontaneous welding in that engine's future if they stayed... Linish the crank and be glad that you saved the whole reciprocating assembly from being destroyed.

Just get the crank linished, shout the engine new bearings, a new set of gapped rings, a dunny brush hone, bang it together and send it.

Days like this, the best thing you can do is go back to bed....

Have u done bf motor on ba ?

The better of the 2 cranks will come good with wet and dry/lube and a shoe lace. Mothers metal polish to finish it off.

I know how you feel Scotty. VASS is kicking my balls hard like a donkey So I know how you feel when you can't seem to catch a break. Hopefully it'll all come together sooner rather than later. Well that's what I keep telling myself.

Scotty, I noticed some nice convo pros in the background. What are they going on?

v8 powered good times ? between rb jz barra valiant . v6 .have not seen a v8 in months .. love the barra

Thats why its cheaper to build an engine right the first time, with quality parts. The poor man pays twice, or in this case 5th time?

Scotty theres heaps of cool cars at grays online can you do a walk around video again?

Just get that 600 wetdry sandpaper strips cut scotty and borrow a horizontal lathe for an hour she'll come up alright, no doubt your vids are alittle delayed i hope ya managed to get it sorted without too much hassle🖒 poor bugger cant catch a break over'ere 😂

Just get the crank ground or cleaned up

The ol 3800 wont give you this much trouble Scotty.

10:49 poor bloke we’ve all had that moment

After all the talk about Barra engines ,now we know if you do not look after them and like any engine it will fail or something will go wrong its that simple, now i would like to know what other pro engine builders who build barra engines for high eng reliability and drag pack engines with at least 400 KW to 600KW at the fly and what items they use other than stock and maybe do that scotty after all its about having something reliable and not use it thrash it and then replace with a 2nd hand items in the engine? But beggars cant be choosers either, good luck buddy i hope to see that engine done right and to spec and hi end new parts used get that crank done right, go to the cranky boys who are specialists in fixing up cranks and cams even weld them if required thats how good they are, in fact i used to sell them aircraft grade welding wire, specially grades of welding wire, which even most welding supply shops will never get because they don't supply the aircraft maintenance industry full stop?

dedicated gasss yeahhhh!!!!

Damn, Scotty if you didn't have bad luck, you wouldn't have any at all, I guess you are going to have to bite the bullet and polish one up hopefully you won't need to under cut it and resize the rods

i have found maintenance to be a big issue on used ford LPG engines either in the car or out they are the tight arses car of choice cheap purchase price used cheap fuel and the oil never goes dark so people never change it also the egas engines taking 15w40 oil instead of the 5w30 the petrol takes seals their fate never to see a drop of good or synthetic oil in 90% of cases

Not a Shifter in the whole video, things really have turned to shit in the Carnage workshop. Scotty, say congrats to Telfo for us.

O.K. Then, "Powerhouse" will clean your crank...(Pardon the Pun)...So we can start to see more of the VN work getting done on future episodes of 'Scotty's' Carnage....Workshop, Yes/No ?

Scotty got F'd in A once again 😅

just polish up the first crank by hand, after all these motors on live for a 50-100 hours

When plans a b c and d don't work time to take a break and crack a cold beverage

Scotty can you get your budget to afford an Atomic crank shaft and main cap girdle?

"I hope to have Turbo Taxi back and running soon!" *covid-19 has entered the chat*

Just tappa tappa tappa

Linish the crank and cross fingers Mr Taylor

Anyone else notice Scotty had no pants on this entire episode?

let the swearing out hahahha

sitting on a stool with a crank between your nuts rubbing journals with emery cloth makes for hours of riveting viewing .... but cheer up it could be worse ..... someone before you could have used a leather belt as main bearings

Why not chuck some decent rods and pistons in it instead?

Helicoils are stronger than the original treaded portion