I'm happy you found my video! And you might have to keep a look out for a Sterling Kisses storefront at an airport near you soon!

Thanks a lot! And thanks for watching!

Wow! Thanks for being with me for so long! I'm glad you continue to enjoy the videos.

In my experience I've found that the final piece cast in metal only shrinks by about 1% compared to the original resin print. This might be higher if you make a mold of the piece first and cast in wax though.

If school is an option then definitely go that route. It's possible to teach yourself and learn from the internet, but going through proper training would save you a lot of trial and error.

Thanks! I just let the flask sit after vacuuming the investment. I'll have to try the tapping trick!

@@SterlingKisses best wishes!

Thanks for watching! Here is my schedule: Place flasks in 300f preheated kiln. Hold 3 Hours; Ramp @ 1680f per hour to 700f. Hold 1 hour; Ramp @ 1680f per hour to 1350f. Hold 4 hours; Full ramp down to casting temp. Final Hold 1 to 2 hours based on flask size.

I've heard that the prints cure more completely in an oxygen free environment. The better a print is cured the better it will burn out.

@@SterlingKisses i think I found the answer myself. Seeing other videos on 3d jewelry prints, the use of glycerin under UV light is due to the specifications of the castable resin that is used. For the oxygen-free environment, this part only covers the procedure for the lost wax technique. It is used to remove the air bubbles which would then ruin the creation of the jewel.

I'm not sure of the exact science behind it, but prints that require curing under UV light get a more complete cure in an oxygen free environment. If your resin does not require curing than you should skip this step.

Prongs are cut to shape and bent over the gemstone. Some other methods of stone setting can be found in this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZp1obt6ztfdYIk.html

My flasks are 3.5" tall by 2.5" in diameter to give you an idea of how much investment is in there. I use a vacuum pump and electromelt for casting. For this video I was using Resinworks brown material printed on an Asiga. I would need more detail to help you figure out what went wrong with your casting.

@@SterlingKisses do you used the vacuum pump to get the air out of the plaster or to suck the resin out of the mold?

@@marcscheuer530 the vacuum is used to remove trapped air from the investment. The investment then hardens around the resin. The flask is then placed into a kiln and the resin is burnt out.

Boric Acid is added to the distilled water used for mixing investment. It strengthens the investment mixture so the resin is less likely to damage the investment during burnout. Please watch from 1:57 and let me know if you have any other questions.

I used a beading tool to push metal over the corners of the stone. A milgrain tool was also used to add detail to the bezel.

@@SterlingKisses thank you sir, I must have missed the prongs it was a lovely setting.

I've used glycerine to help cure other castable resins. I don't think it would hurt regular resins.

I know of a few people that use the Phrozen Shuffle for jewelry. They get very nice results from it.

@@SterlingKisses Thank you very much for the feedback! I really appreciate you taking the time to reply! Since my previous comment I thought that maybe a cheaper option would be good to start out with, and have settled on the Elegoo printers. Do you have any comments or advice for me, please, on these machines?

@@dustysanders2790 The more affordable printers like the Elegoo Mars for example will still work well enough for jewelry, but if your piece has fine details they won't be as sharp looking. Still a good entry level machine though.

@@SterlingKisses My Elegoo mars 2 pro seems to do VERY high detail. I'm gonna give it a try soon (on jewelry)

The stone is bezel set. Surrounding metal is pushed over the stone to secure it in place. An example can be found in my Gold Skull Dice video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZp1obt6ztfdYIk.html

It gets burned out in the kiln. Leaving a hollow mold he pour the silver into.

I cast in 925 Sterling silver and only plate pieces that need to be two tone. 14kt yellow gold plating is used.

I cast 925 sterling at 1100f for light pieces. 900f for heavier pieces. Hope this helps.

@@SterlingKisses Actually I'm asking about silver temperature, not the flask. Thank you!

@@dvalid Ah, sorry for misunderstanding. My silver temperature is 1800f

@@SterlingKisses Thanks a lot!

What kind of investment do you use

The last time I used this resin was on a DLP Printer so your settings might need some tuning: Bottom Layer: 33 sec. Normal Exposure time 5 sec at .03mm layer height.

@@SterlingKisses wow i have a esun casteable resin , and need to use 60 sec bottom layer, I think is too much but i have acceptable results. In argentina your resin doesnt exist for buy it

A first gen Asiga freeform pico

I use 3ds Max but a good one specifically for jewelry is Rhino. Blender is a good general cad software too and it's free.

Here are a few ideas: After pouring your investment, let it bench dry for only 3 hours. Then place it into a preheated kiln for burnout. Try adding airflow into your kiln (if it's an electric kiln). Use a small aquarium air pump and direct the air through a metal tube into the base of the kiln (I had to drill into the door of my kiln to do this. Don't drill near the heating elements on the side of the kiln). Finally, try this quicker burnout cycle: Ramp 1465 to 300f. Hold 1 hour. Ramp 540 to 900f. hold 1 hour. Ramp 540 to 1382f. Hold 2h. Then full ramp down to casting temperature (1100f for light silver pieces). Hold for 1 hour then cast .

Hello. As an example, if I use 1200 grams of investment I would add 12 grams of boric acid. The Ransom & Randolph Investment website has an excellent calculator for determining water to powder ratios for different flask sizes.

It was Boric Acid. 1% of the investment's weight. It makes the investment harder.

Could you explain more about the role of boric in the coating? Thanks

@@jorgeemiliano2035 H₃BO₃. Makes gypsum hard

Hello Derek, could you please email us at info@resinworks3d.com so that we can troubleshoot your problem.

It seems the only major difference is that PowerResin Wax doesn't need to be post cured after printing. Could help to speed up workflow by eliminating that curing step and you don't need to worry about under curing a piece.

@@SterlingKisses fair enough then. Thanks for the feedback!

It's supposed to cure better in an oxygen free environment.

@@SterlingKisses reallly.... that's interesting. Is that just this resin, or is that true of all resins? You could make the argument that it is oxygen free when in the printer being printed, so that would kinda make sense.

yes, the resin burns clean out of the investment

Around 20k to do it right and professionally

Look up online a company called Stuller. They carry all equipment needed in this video and the printer

How long are you letting your flasks sit for after investing? I usually wait 4 to 5 hours before they go into the kiln.

Emery wheels work well to remove the lines before casting.

@@SterlingKisses oh, so you do remove some material at the end, OK. I am asking because those visible lines prove that resin/technique is capable of reproducing really small details, and is easy to work with - as opposed as one of the direct competitors, Bluecast OG or X10.

@@cthulpiss I was thinking of getting some bluecast. Is it not possible to clean up grow lines with x10?

@@SterlingKisses It's not the cleaning that is the problem - as far as I know/tried Bluecast X10 practically requires primer to coat the build-plate (add. cost) and resin customizer (softenizer or hardenizer of sharpenizer, add. cost) so the whole process is over-complicated as opposed EasycastHD you reviewed here. I new to casting, so look at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rcWmp9WKrs68oXk.html + kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jbl4eqmTp521f6s.html (second part is important one). By the way - I just love your skull dice, the model is really awesome!

Glass will block some forms of UV light. Not sure if it effects the type of UV light used for curing. Very good point! I'll have to research this more.

Plasticast investment mixed at 38:100

I use prestige optima.

@@SterlingKisses thanks 🙏

I used Plasticast investment 38:100

1% Boric Acid to investment weight.

The flasks are placed in a kiln for roughly 12 hours to burn out the resin. 3:15

This resin works with lcd printers.

You can find a reseller on the ResinWorks3d website.

It's roughly an 8 hour burnout

@@SterlingKisses but sir if i use 3 hours in 1200c is it good option you think so ?

Facing same problem

About an hour under UV light. Depends on your curing station and size of the piece though.

Nope! No need for vents or vacuuming.

@@SterlingKisses excellent. I appreciate the video. Lots of good information on this and your other d pad video.

Boric acid

@@SterlingKisses thank you for your centlemen

How much gram mixed wather&boricacid

@@murtazadanyal1702 I add 1% of boric acid by investment weight.

@@SterlingKisses thank you for all

Some castable resins cure better in an oxygen free environment. New resins that are available now don't need this extra step.

@@SterlingKisses Ah ..Thank you.

I believe I used this burnout schedule, but the instructions that come with that bottle should work well too: Ramp 1465f per hour to 300f hold for 1 hour. Ramp 540f per hour to 900f hold 1hour. Ramp 540f per hour to 1382f hold 2h. Full ramp to casting temp and hold for 1 hour (or 2-3 hours for larger flasks) then cast.

Resinworks Violet resin might be more appropriate for the Photon S.

I don't think it will work on the anycubic photon. Easycast HD Brown is for DLP printers. The Photon is an LCD printer. You should try their Easycast HD Violet resin instead.

@@SterlingKisses gracias ,espero tener mejor suerte con esta resina,he usado resinas castables solo la bluecast y no he tenido buenos resultados

what kind of glicerin do you use ,please link to buy if is possible

@@SterlingKisses anycubic photon is an DLP-lcd, printer ,well its read google,I mean, this resin can be used in my printer

No, they are there to let the silver flow into the lower parts of the mold.

The resin is actually burnt away, leaving a hollow impression in the investment. Metal is poured into this cavity, filling in where the resin once was.

Google lost wax casting