Thanks and yes the D15EE is one heck of a speaker!

Why coat the paper cone theres no reason to.

@@grindfreakmike5754 UV & Moisture Resistance!!! DERP! 🤪

They actually had different types of cones right from the factory. Texture is the same yes but colors were slightly different. Some were slightly tinted a blueish color some green and most a darker grey or black color. My guess is the year they were made but I found a lot of minor inconsistencies like that with CV stuff. They basically just used whatever it was they had for parts. Sound wise the specs all the same but different types of builds. Like the midranges on my D7s are an older version usually found in older models like the HED series. My D9s are newer and slightly different but only in the style of baskets. The actual sound specs are the same or close enough. I was going to cover the differences in the midranges in this video but I am going to do another video on these on replacing midrange grills and I decided to cover that in that video instade of this one because the difference in the mids doesn't depend on wether they are D7s or D9s if the mids were different. Being this was just a comparison on the differences of the 2 models it is irrelevant.

@@SavingVegas i have factory schematics for the D9's in PDF format. i can send if interested. also literature for the entire D series in 1984 when i bought my D9s. You are correct on them using parts available, the 1984 literature midranges look similar to the mid's on your D7's and my D9 mid's match your D9 mid's. Love the videos, thanks for making them.

@@alwillis4255 What information might you have on the D8's? I bought a set new back when the came out but the cabinets didn't make it. I pulled all the parts and drew up a small sketch with dimensions in anticipation of rebuilding. Looking for any information known since CV never kept any tech specs.

@@1rewd133 Only for D9, nothing on D8

@@alwillis4255 thank you anyway. It was an obscure model, a D9 with only one mid or D7 with a 15", depending on how you look at it.

They sure are. I don't know if you've watched any of my videos on restoring these D-9s but they turned out great! I have been using them in my shop for over a year now and they've been awesome considering they get beat on pretty hard almost everyday. I will be pulling them off the big corner shelves they sit on very soon to take some acoustical measurements and possibly upgrading some more of the xover parts to bring them to the next level. I will be making a video on the process sometime in the near future.

These ones do not sound as they should. I am hoping for a big improvement after I re cap the crossovers and re cone the woofers.

Right on I hope you enjoy the vids, many more to come!

Your hear lots of people always saying that CVs need lots of power, that's actually not the case. The majority of their models have sensitivity ratings in the mid 90dB and some even over 100dB. Sensitivity ratings are found by measuring the SPL from 1 meter away with 1 watt of power. Most speakers today measure high 80s to low or mid 90dB so for this reason CVs are known to be quite sensitive which is not to be confused with efficiency as some models can be quite demanding on some amplifiers. With that said lots of the bigger models can take lots of power and sound great doing so. If you like listening to you music loud and love cranking on the volume knob that's when it becomes necessary to have an amp with bigger power numbers. As for your power amp that's rated 80 watts rms that has 300 watts listed on the back of the unit, the 300 watts is it's power consumption not output. To be honest 80 watts is more then enough to run D-7s or D-9s as long as you don't overdrive your amp no damage will be done. If it's loud you want then I would suggest a high current power amp rated around 200 watts @ 8 ohms.

What inconsistencies are you hearing? Usually when a crossover has bad parts it is consistent issue. Do the potentiometers operate properly with no crackling sound when adjusting them? Do the issues change depending on the volume level? If so vibrations could possibly be affecting something, just a thought.

I have never had them no. They get ok reviews but they only have a 95dB efficiency rating. For a 15 inch 3 way Cerwin Vega thats not very good. Most of their 15 inch speakers have efficiency ratings that are over 100dB. They would not sound as good as others and definitely not on smaller amplifiers.

Upper mid will be either M-6 or FM-6 and the lower mid will be M-6H or FM-6H. Some may marked CM-6 upper and CM-6H lower. Either way top has a sealed basket and lower has open basket with its own internal enclosure.

They do rate the frequency response lower on the D7 than the D9. That is for the whole speaker itself so it doesn't mean that the woofer itself necessarily measures lower but would have more to do with the size and design of the enclosure.

In spec sheets they rated them as an 8 ohm but yet on the front plate it says 4 - 8 ohms impedance. I don't know for certain about the D-7's but I would bet they would dip down to 4 ohms or even lower depending on the frequencies being played.

Yes and no. First off the obvious is that the D1s and D2s are only a 2 way with no mids and the lower power C5G or CS tweeters. Both models are the same only difference is the finish of the wave guide. From D3 to D9 they all used the same mids (FM-6 or CM-6) although there are 2 different styles of mids used only difference is the frame style. The dual mid models (D7 and D9) used the FM-6 or CM-6 for the mid on the top and for the bottom mid they used the FM-6H or CM-6H. The difference is just top one has closed basket and bottom has an open basket and usually are fixed to an internal enclosure. And yes for the tweeters the D8 and D9 use the CS5 larger magnet and higher power handling tweeter.

If tweeter and mids are working you are good there but sometimes I find they sound muddy or just bad in general the crossover would be the next place to look. Not so much for the tweeter but the mids, the mids have electrolytic capacitors in their signal path and they go bad with age. Sometimes you can tell just by looking at them, they will be bulged, leaking and sometimes even the plastic coating on them will melt if they have got too hot. This degrades the sound quality and in most cases causes them to filter too much low frequencies or not enough. Bad or not when I am working on crossovers I remove any electrolytic cap that is in the signal path of a tweeter or mid and replace it with an audio grade polypropylene cap with the same or as close to the same values. Matching the uF as close as possible is important and for voltage the new cap can be rated higher than the original not lower.

​@@SavingVegas I ended up replacing the foam surrounds. That's all they needed. They were in excellent condition all around. I purchased them from the original owners who bought them in 1988 and they were in a nice home and well taken care of. I already have nice speakers so I sold them and the person who bought them is very happy with them. Another pair of D7's that will be enjoyed for many more years. Thanks for posting.

I'm glad you found a solution that worked out for you. This is a perfect reason there are many different kinds of speakers out there, our preferences for audio equipment is subjective. I will say I know what you mean by the D-7's sounding muddy. My D-9's were the same way, was one of the reasons I chose to rebuild the crossovers with much better quality parts and I couldn't be happier with the results.

Ah the Hard Rocker Series. I missed out on a set of 316r's about a year and a half ago. This is one of a few speakers I would over pay for if I had to just to own them. Beautiful sounding midrange and just the build quality and size of the cabinet makes it not just a speaker but a piece of furniture lol. I have some 417r's coming in soon. Second owner speakers that the owner says they just don't sound as good as they did the day he got them. Probably going to get some upgraded caps and inductors for the crossover and clean up the potentiometers and so on. I will most definitely be doing some videos or at least one on that project. Those 316r's are gem for sure and I would never let them go. I'm glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate the support.

@@SavingVegas If I ever decide to sell these bad boys I'll give you first crack at them. :-) I'd give you a heck of a deal on them knowing they'd be in good hands. :-) All though it's likely that the only way they'll leave my possession is if I "will" them to someone when I'm "done". LOL Seems these are pretty darn rare given all the years I searched for a pair. As for pieces of furniture......these were used as end tables for a while at the ends of the previous owner's couch........which resulted in a purplish color wine glass ring stain on top of one. Thankfully I have a wood restoration product that completely removed that wine stain returning these babies back to pristine condition. :-) I'm now considering the possibility of upgrading my receiver/amp to drive these guys. Just not sure yet what kind of amp....what kind of power I need to get these guys performing at their peak.

I'm a little jealous not going to lie. Hopefully I come across some one day. For amps people always seem to recommend pro amps for the dollar per watt. Giving the sensitivity rating 103dB and 150 watt powered rating I would shoot for hifi power amp pre amp combo that is in your price range. For wattage I usually try to get something that exceeds the speakers rating for rms output power or and amp that has really good dynamic power. You have to take in consideration that nobody sits and listens to a single sinewave, you listen to music which is dynamic. Having big power on tap is a good way to not wreck speakers if you know their limitations. Underpowering speakers is the number one cause of speaker failure. An amp with a 200 watt rating would be a good match. I'm always looking for deals on used amps/pre amps and buying and selling to try different setups out, not all equipment sounds the same. Pro amps are nice but most that I have tried seem to sound a little lifeless but that's just my opinion. So far my favorite amp is my Adcom GFA-555. 200 watts per channel at 8 ohms and 600 watts at 8 ohms mono. Dynamically it will do 350 watts per channel before clipping.

@@SavingVegas Unfortunately I just don't know enough about all the technicalities of this stuff........appears I've got lots of reading and head scratching and learning to do. Reading through all the specs of various equipment can be rather confusing sometime. I'm using these 316's as my front speakers of my home theatre system....connected to a denon avr s750h.....in a 5.0 configuration I guess. I'm not using a subwoofer since I get so much base out of these speakers. The specs for it that I've seen so far are conflicting.....and confusing.....I've seen 165 watts per channel....then 75 watts per channel...then 85 watts per channel......then 110 watts per channel somewhere.......so what exactly is it???? Do I have enough power? Do I need more power to get optimal performance out of these speakers? Or am I good with what I've got? Not entirely sure. But not really being a hard core "audiophile" I'm not likely to start getting into the pre-amp and power amp business any time soon I don't think. Not being a sound engineer by any stretch of the imagination...it's sometimes difficult to understand all the ins and outs of this stuff.....for me anyway. :-) Rather than getting too deeply into all the technicalities and specs....what I've relied on mostly over the years has simply been....yup....MY EARS! LOL If I like what I'm hearing...then I don't get too wrapped around the axle worrying about this wattage per channel...or that wattage per channel. Ultimately that's all that really matters isn't it? Liking what you're hearing????? But.....I would like to know more and have a better understanding of the subject......so I'll keep reading....keep watching youtube vids....and listening to guys like you who know more than I about all this stuff........and then crank the volume and rock on with these bad boys rattling my windows and causing my ears to bleed. LOL

Yes I sure do. D9s are louder, more bass and a better build quality overall. If you look at the sensitivity rating, the D9 is rated at 101dB at 1 Watt/1 meter. The XLS215 is 95.3dB 1 watt/1 meter. Frequency response of the D9 29Hz to 20kHz and the XLS215 38Hz to 20kHz.

@@SavingVegas my next pair of speakers too

That receiver would run either of these speakers just fine. Cerwin Vega is known for their high sensitivity ratings. Sensitivity ratings are measured in decibels and usually measured at 1 watt from 1 meter away. Depending on the model they measure in at anywhere from 94dB up to over 100dB, so they will play louder than most with lower wattage amps. With that said, the more power you have on hand means more headroom and more control of the drivers in the speaker. You would be surprised at how well these speakers sound, even at lower volume levels the bass is very present. As long as you don't overdrive the amplifier by turning it up too loud. This causes clipping and will take out tweeters in a hurry and even midrange drivers sometimes. For this reason power meters, distortion or clip light indicators are nice to have. Unfortunately your receiver does not have any of these so you have to let your ears be the judge. I good rule of thumb is to not set the volume up past 70% ish and you should be safe. I will add that these speakers really come to life with a good quality power amp. But like I said they are still very enjoyable with lower wattage units. I hope this answers your question.

@@SavingVegas thank you for the full info response much appreciated, I’ve found a pair of u123 locally I may go check out this weekend price is right so I’m hoping for a similar outcome. Can’t seem to find as much info on that model any words of wisdom on that model?

I have had a set of those before and I was impressed with them. They will work well with lower power amplifiers.

@@SavingVegas thanks they sounded great at the sellers house hope they sound equally as good at mine

I have yet to own any of the xls series Vega's yet. Judging by specs of the largest model in the series, the XLS215, they don't appear to be as efficient as older models. I have also read some reviews that mentioned issues with the cheap construction of the cabinets. If I ever come across a set for a decent price I will definitely buy them tonsee for myself.

I might be selling these when they are done but I am in Saskatchewan Canada, so not really near anybody lol. I guess it depends on where you are located but shipping these big suckers probably isn't cheap.

I have a pair of D9 and 380SE that have been in storage for 20years. D9 need reconing In Los Angeles, Ventura County area.

I am well aware. If you go to the 12:00 point of the video I talk about the CS5 being the larger magnet version that should be in there. Also at around the 9:35 mark I mention that the smaller magnet version tweeter belongs to the D-1 to the D-7. It would be nice if people would at least pay attention before trying to call me out 🤦‍♂️

Yup it sure does. I ran into this alot with CV stuff. If you go to cerwinvega.com and look up the D9 in there Legacy models under service and part numbers it will show you that the D9 tweeter is a C-5G. But the schematics I have for the D9 says CS5. The CS5 is the larger higher power handling version and the C5G is the smaller one even though they are marked C5. Just like the midranges that are usually marked M6 or not marked at all but there are actually 2 different part numbers CM6HP and CM6P.

@@SavingVegas i know there is a lot of difrrenses. but you say C5G but you holding up a C5 tweeter. ???? i just pointed out the mistake. but cerwin vega made changes a lot all the time. just in denmark i have seen 4 difrend D5-E if you look up D9 where you live. there is a lot of difrend ones to. and here i only talk about the cabinets. not the drivers.

I say C5G because thats what it is.

@@SavingVegas the C5G has the C5G stamped on the magnet. the tweeter you have in your hand is C5. difrrend model number :) i have both tweeters.

I see now lol oops. This had me very confused at first. So I went ahead and pulled a bunch of tweeters out of my D series speakers and I see what you are saying. So both are smaller magnets it just appears to be a difference in the plastic. C5 has a smooth gloss finish and C5G is more of a dull black rougher finish. One must have been replaced in the D7s I picked up because one is stamped C5 and the other is the C5G like all my other ones. I never even noticed the C5 tell I watched my video over again. Do you know if there are any differences in specs?