The magneto only has one winding (coil) as you have discovered with the white wire. Being a 2 pole A.C. generator it produces (lets say for arguments sake) a positive pulse on the down stroke which charges the CDI and a negative pulse on the up stroke which triggers the CDI...so there is no positive or negative wires on the magneto but a "phasing" if you connect it backwards the plug will still fire but 180 degrees out of phase so the engine will not run. You will not harm the CDI...if you try to absorb either the positive or negative cycles from the magneto (to power something else) it will either not charge the CDI or not trigger the CDI...either way no go...hope this helps understand whats going on with the china girl ignition system which is light years ahead of the old points type systems which were horrible...this system is basically maintenance free although no real adjustments which is both a good and a bad thing...

Okay.., remember that cute silver box you first bought... that’s called a voltage rectifier and regulator. It converts AC to DC by rectifying it, and regulates the output to 13 volts DC, which will run your LED lights just fine without the battery. You have to add that, along with the new secondary coil you added. Leave the original wiring alone, add the 2nd coil, the two wires coming from it should feed the yellow or white whites which are INPUT on the regulator, leaving a red and black... guess what those lovely wires are for? :). No battery necessary.

Hey guys and girls. My name is Gary. I have been building and riding motorized bikes for several years now.

Shimano, Sturmey-Archer, SON, and many other companies have made front wheel hub generators. Sturmey-Archer alone goes back about 75 years. Unlike the constant drag of a small armature being turned by the wheel, there is no felt drag because the armature replaces the axle and the magnets rotate around it. It should be more than enough to keep your devices charged, whether the engine runs or not.

This is actually the very first comment I ever made in my lifetime. I share the interest in these motorized bikes, but the best part of your videos is the honesty and your ability to admit when you aren't sure of something. I'm so sick of wasting my time attempting to re-create something that was from the beginning a sham from people just looking for likes and popularity without any reguard of the actual truth. For this reason you are awesome, and thank you.

Love to see a growing fanbase on your channel bud keep it up.

I have a small bike trailer I use for longer hauls and I have a charging system on the trailer. It has a Pully on the wheel and a rubber band that turns a small electric motor to charge 2 3.7v batteries in parallel. I use 5v leds and they work fine. The charging system gives out 4.4v at about 10mph so I can charge while I ride and have power at stops from the batteries. I’ve even installed a connector on the trailer so I can connect the bike. Meaning I can run the bike lights off the trailer batteries/charging system.

I have watched you for a while and I Just wanna say keep up the good work!!

Hello mr hover i enjoy your videos & your persistent acctitude on motorized bike,, torepaired & upgrades, thaks, very well explained, say hello from panama, joe, i have a 2t motorized, i learn a lot, w your videos thanks, keep sharig, loe.

I have built many motorized bikes. My current is an 80cc (66cc) cranbrook. The reason you have a problem with your CDI killing the engine is because you need to separate your CDI and the charging generator. I have a 2 coil set up that the CDI runs off of one and the other coil provides the amps to run my headlights, taillights, blinkers, brake lights, and speedo light. its all LED. It also has a rectifier and it both powers everything on my bike and still enough left over to charge the battery at any speed above idle.

the best way I,ve found is just bolting it right against the frame...I have rode the crap out of mine within reason of course and have yet to have anything vibrate loose, I do check it over about every other time I ride it just because its good practice... it seems to have a lot more issues with even a thin material between the engine and the frame, it also foams up the fuel in the bowl with the rubber mounts which starves the engine of fuel...that was frustrating, I just happened to read an obscure post in the depths of a

Love the vids like he said u gotta start somewhere got me a 2021 Schwinn sidewinder a tadddd on the small side for the pk 80 lol but got that thing strapped up somehow and have been watching all the vids I can on getting this awesome first motorized bike going I wish I saw that taft vid tho before I bought mine lol 😂 all good just made a crazy setup for the carb to fit and I'm off to the races keep up the great vids 👍😁

Build your own bridge rectifier with 4 diodes.

Thanks for the soldering tips man

Love your videos. I agree with you the rag joints are just fine. I did order a cheap hub adapter and broke three spokes and bent a few more. Although I had the bolts good and tight it just didn't hold. Then I noticed the inner surface of this cheap aluminum adapter wasn't quite smooth and flat. There was even a casting line right in the middle of the gripping surface. My solution was to hone it with a brake cylinder hone. My Cranbrook has the 1.5 inch hub so it's a bit better than a 1 inch for gripping area. Then I sanded the paint off the hub and added JB weld before torquing the bolts down. The hub and adapter are now (hopefully) married for life. Maybe that was a crazy thing to do but it's holding.

Большое спасибо за видео, было очень полезно, очень интересно, и ты меня уберёг от подобной затеи, потому что у меня были точно такие же идеи. Thank you, you save my money

Thank you sir! Can’t get mine to run enough to find a leak… so this is our next fix…… hope it works. So tired of fighting this thing.. especially when it ran soooooo good at the beginning

My own plans for an electric system involve a dedicated generator hooked up to the magneto, but only using the magneto physically cuz it isn't controlled by the clutch. I will hook up to it using basically the same way a pull start hooks up to it, just a lot more flush.

i have a standard 50cc china doll, wow such fun, i went on an adventure today, for 4+ hours! still has fuel in the tank!

Been watching a few of your vids, my first and only kit had an o ring on the carb, still haven't decided what bike I'm gonna use (have gathered a few over the years) the thing to consider is how a shorted coil can affect the magnetic flux lines developed from a rotating magnet. I.e. if you load down an alternator electrically the drag on whatever is spinning it increases. There is only so much magnetic flux to go around, the plates of the lamanite help to direct what flux is available, perhaps sucking them away from the bare bones rig that comes with the motor. Still have the motor clamped to a pipe on the bench. Don't be afraid to jig up a new rim, been doing it for 30 years and you just have to do it to get good, swapping a new rim is jumping in with both feet and there's no going back after that