You can remove the broken connectors and just put the rubber hose back on the aluminum outlet and use a screw clamp and not use that gm pos connector and it will not leak nor come off. Make sure you get the hose and clamp past the step on the aluminum tube. Done tons of them.

IF YOU DONT HAVE TIME OR MONEY TO BUY THE TOOL: cut an old credit card in half hotdog style. put 1/4 in. cuts at a 1/4 in. apart all the way down the spine of the card. proceed to flex the card into a tube shape. the cuts allow the card to bend easier. then put the card behind the connector into the space between the male and female connection. cut the card to length to have a good circumfrence. push the card deeper into the connection and pull the hose at the same time.

My disconnect just broke off exactly like yours and I about shit a brick thinking awww man here we go but your video just made me sigh a breath of relief and pop open a beer! Will be replacing tomorrow!

I don’t know if you’ll even see this comment but thanks for the video. I’ve watched probably 30 different ones. I bought a set of angled quick connect tools and couldn’t get the 5/8 to work. Then got an aluminum one. Didn’t work either. I searched for your video in the middle of cussing and working my fingers to death trying to get the tool to seat. Finally found it again and you used the green. Felt too small at first and still had to work it a bit but finally got it changed out. Thanks so much!

You sir saved me from further frustration. I bought the same set that you used. I thought the orange tool was the proper one. I had purchased the aluminum 3/4" hinged tool from Amazane and gave up on it after 40 minutes. When you selected the green 5/8" tool I paused the video, went back into the engine bay, and three minutes later I had the dang thing off. I'm still trying to get the connector on the left off but that will wait until tomorrow. These two hose connectors have taken more time to removed than all the other hoses, the water pump, and idler pulley and tensioners COMBINED. I am seriously considering putting the hoses directly on the heater core nipples and clamping them down like every other water hose since Henry Ford. In short, thank you. EDIT: Today I went back to get the left connector off. I tried and was having difficulty. I decided that the tool needed a bit of lubrication. I used plumbers grease to lightly lube the inside and outside of the tool. Viola, the connector is off and I am putting my Silverado back together. I'm 76 years old so it takes me much longer to get things done. Thanks again Zent Rose for leading m to a successful end to my problem.

Dude, mine just broke at 4am on the way to work on a 2 hour commute. Your video just helped me a ton. Subscribing now. Thanks a ton.

I'm a black man.... I like to thank 🙏💕the hell out of you bro.

You make it look so easy i had to use all my mite to pull mines off i even put grease on the end so it can come off easier. I didn’t even bother replacing it i just put the hose directly on the heater core to avoid that again

Great tip. But if you have to do the other hose right beside it, use the 3/4" orange release tool. Green might work, but it's hard to get to, I used the orange and it worked well. Just had to really get up in there to get it to release.

Thank you, you saved my life I thought I had to take out the heater core

Amazing video, thanks for the part numbers!! Just saved me a ton of time, frozen fingers and a huge headache. My connector broke when it was 15 degrees outside. Picked up the parts and had it swapped out in less than 10 minutes.

After watching this video I had an idea. I cut a 1" strip from a yogurt container wrapped it around the pipe a few times and slid it in to release the broken fitting. It worked. This video was so helpful..ty edit: it was a total of 11" of yogurt container strip

Here’s how I did it: I tried those aftermarket off the shelf disconnect tool sets but I couldn’t get it to go inside the connector. I surmised that the part that needs to go between the pipe and the connector was too thick. The correct tool for this is a J 43181. Dorman makes this tool as 800-450. I ordered it from AutoZone and got it the next day. I tried it and it worked, but here are some tips. 1. Don’t insert it all the way. If you do it won’t work. You will need to insert it about half way. 2. After you remove the broken connector and before you install the new one rub some antifreeze/coolant inside it or you won’t be able to get it to go on the pipe. 3. As to why there is even a connector between the hose and the pipe, I can only guess that maybe due to vibration the connector is a kind of a sacrificial part so that it breaks instead of the heater pipe itself, but this is only a guess.

I saw other videos but none off them say nothing about that special tool to release that end. Thank you very much.

This video is perfect. My damaged part very much like yours. Other YT videos I reviewed were incomplete and mentioned nothing about this removal tool. Pretty tough to remove without it. Good job. Headed home now to fix my truck.

I was just about to replace my (still good) heater core and create a huge job for myself that would likely me being in over my head. Thank you so much for posting this.

Had no idea there quick disconnects for heater hoses. Picked up this exact set at Northern Tool. 2006 Silverado 6.0, used the green one on both. A little tricky to get them on there, I took the plastic engine covers off for more room. Appreciate this video big time!!

Thanks for the video. Went all over town looking for the disconnect tool and no one had the 1 I was looking for. Saw your video and saw that same set at the parts store. The green one worked for me also.

Thanks for the part numbers above! My local parts store gave me the wrong ones at first for my 2005 Avalanche 1500 (5/8 hose to 5/8" quick connect, which is wrong - needs to be a 5/8 hose to 3/4" quick connect). I also found a Lisle 39190 aluminum 3/4" quick connect tool instead of the plastic ones.

5/8". Mine broke off today and I had no idea how to get that little bastard off. I'm gonna design and 3D print the quick disconnect adapter. Thanks for sharing!

Ditto on the thanks for the part numbers. Made shopping real easy. Like others, once I knew what exactly to do, and HAD THE RIGHT TOOLS, it tool only a few minutes to change out both fittings.

Thanks man, I was working on solving a no heat issue that turned out to be an asston of crud in the entire system. Thought I was golden while happily flushing the system away while it was 20degrees while anticipating having heat again. I hadn’t even noticed that plastic thing had broken off until I was reassembling all the hoses then I saw…. I was goober sad and was already an hour deep into watching vids on how to replace the heater core when I decided to search specific to the inlet and found your vid. Just got back from the parts store armed with the parts suggested. I anticipate this to get me back on track and thankfully not dismantling the damn dash(even though I eventually have to for busted actuators smh). Thanks again dude!

The yellow the one that is next to green works way better I found. Great video!!

Awesome video...I had no clue how to remove that quick connector in my Escalade. Man it helped me a lot and save me a lots of money. Thanks so much for such of valuable information. (I don't have any experience in auto mechanic but this video saved me)

Thank you for the how-to video. Happened yesterday on my uncle's truck (connector broke in half). So the old ones are going away, 3/4" hose in their place and in-line reducers to link to the stock 5/8" hose. :)

Buy the better dorman 800-409hp,its stainless steel and shouldn't break again. It more money obviously but will definitely be worth it. I also have an 8.1 vortec with 398,000 on it and it runs great,no knocks or smoke. Great motors!Thanks!

thank you very much man i went back told the kids working there if you want to help sell these tools when you sell heater core hoses 🤦🏼‍♂️ man thank you

This was extremely helpful - I just broke one of mine off and I was worried that I'd have to replace the heater core. Thanks!

Thank you for helping me by making your video get straight to the point I appreciate that that's why I subscribed

Thank you for telling us what size tool you used, that helps a lot when people do not have the same cheap set.

Also I was lucky enough to find the same tool at Advanced Auto Parts. Thanks so much again!!!

I just did this. With the same tool. Once I slid the tool in it was still tight on there. Had to also twist the fitting as well. But came right off.

I went to AutoZone last night trying to buy the quick disconnect. They had no idea what I was talking about. Looks like I could have just gone to the back shelf and picked it up on my own. That will be tonight's job.

Great vid, I am definitely getting that tool. I replaced the opposite connector and dicked with it for quite a while. I love how you purposely dropped the rest of the tools and how trained that Komodo is 👌.

My connection broke just like you showed. awesome tip! I thought I had to replace the heater core.

why cant you ditch the connector and just hose clamp the hose on the heater core?

When you put the disconnect clamp on, pull it toward you so that both little clips go inside the back of the clamp. 9nce u got that, then turn the rubber/plastic clamp piece while pulling (dont worry about pulling the disconnect tool) hopefully i explained a bit better, but i just spent an hour and 30min on n off trying to do this for a coworker

Did no one else notice the giant Kamoto Dragon on the floor?

If your hose breaks off at the connector then just run a small flat head inside it and lift up to break it off

Glad i found this. This just happened to mine. Glad to know it just a quick disconnect and not the core itself

Thank you for the part numbers, really helped out a bunch...

best video made for replacing the heater hose clamp

Thank You for showing us how to disconnect this part!

Thanks man this saved me and my brother a lot of time. I even got the same exact parts and it worked.

Swiss army knives work perfect Iv always had one laying round bout I use it for something other than a bottle opener or wine opener

This video was Very helpful so I gotta say a huge thank you I had no idea how to get these off.

The greatest shortest video. Thank you

What if you just connect the hose without the plastic piece you just replaced. I have a friend that says you dont need to replace the plastic just break it off clamp your hose back down ??

I had to do just that to 2004 Silverado. But, what I don't see, is how to do a quick repair of a heater hose connector that breaks on you while you while you are on the road. It happened to me on a Sunday afternoon several months ago. What I did, was disconnect the hose going to the core ( wall panel ), and disconnected the return hose to the block. I made a "U" and reconnected the heater hose into the return engine block connector. I had bottled water in my truck, so I was able to replace most of the water and coolant mix and was able to get me and my wife home. Did my repairs the next day.

Just a suggestion you should put the part number or place where to get the tools from in the description. Good video though.

Thanks man mine my adapter broke yesterday and caused it to over heat and leak out all the coolant but easy fix thanks!

OMG the fustration 😡 until i saw this video! THANK YOU THANK YOU! 😁👍🌹✨

Your short video help a lot. Thank you for posting it!

Thanks for posting the part number. Are they the same for both sides?

Thanks Brah... Straight to the point. (Other U-tubers Should Take Note).

Man I was like what tf is there a Komodo in the garage 😆

just slide hose on core in and outlets and clamp them alot less hassle

Awesome video...why would chevy use this brittle plastic piece instead of putting the heater hose directly on the heater core pipe like they have done for 50 years???...SMH

Thanks to you i just got my truck fixed,,

Fyi - Dorman also makes a Stainless Steel version of the quick connect replacement... I just got those (8/2022) for $14 each.

Thanks for the video how to... I think this took me about 3 minutes after I had the right part and tool. Bought at O'Reilly, tool not as nice as yours but worked fine.

I got all ya'll beat.. My heater hose connector broke after travelling 40 miles to the middle of nowhere... And it broke off, just when I parked my truck in the parking lot..at an rc flying field. We used an old RC engine muffler, cut the pipe off... and turned it into a bypass connector.. Just bypassed the heater altogether.. It was around 95 degrees then...So now it's getting cold and I guess I better get to fixin it if I want heat this winter.

Thank you so much found mine leaking while doing a oil change

Beware the Dorman part, I went to install one and the locking tabs slid right off the body of the connector. The whole connector is 2 parts, the little locking tabs are a small piece that slide into the larger part of the body. Looks like they forgot to put some glue in one of my 2 connectors and the locking part slid right off after I connected it to the heater core... The GM part's were around $30 each, vs the $10 for Dorman part. If your cheap Dorman part fails, there goes at least $40 in dexcool, not to mention breakdown time and any other issues that may be caused by losing all your coolant while on the road.

Ty. Was having a bit of problems getting mine out. Tool made it much easier.

Thank you for this and that big lizard scared me lol

Now would be time to flush heater core out while it's off

Make sure you get the right connector. Take it off and bring it with you

Suburban has two heater cores - one for the front and one for the rear passengers (located in the back of the vehicle with hoses running under the body the full length of the vehicle) . I was unable to use this tool on 2003 Suburban rear heater core hose removal. This tool seemed to fit, but provided no disconnecting. I was able to pinch the white tabs on the quick connect and work the hose free. I wonder if there are more than one type of quick-connect hose connectors?

Does this Dorman connector work for both white and black connectors?

Anyone having issues pushing the new connectors on instead of using lubricants just pour a little antifreeze through the connector once the hose is attached the antifreeze is already a lubricant it will slide right on the heater core

Thanks man! Mine just went out on us last night, very useful vid 👍🏼

2003 silverado 2500 hd I use the 3/4 and it work. Thanks

What is the part number of the actual hose? Having a hard time finding that. Thanks.

Mine is the connector to the left. It has tabs on it that will not release with that tool. Mine are the disconnect tool without the pull tab.

Thanks brotha! The plastic insert just snapped on my 2002 silverado. Needed to look up how to replace the part

Real big help, thank you for posting this!

Thanks bro much needed help Auto zone didn't have a clue what I needed keep up the vids 👍

Same removal for the hose next to it???

The problem I’m having is with the hose beside that one. It’s connected to the T hose that goes into the firewall. The big rubber piece has heated and cooled so much I think it’s bonded and I can’t get it off to put the other connector on 😓😓😓

Best one yet. Nice job 👍

Thanks!!! Your video helped me out tremendously.

Thank you helped out a lot had to replace both quick connections

Yeah, use the green one (doesn’t tell a size)

Thanks my Brother

Thanks man I like your approach straight forward 100% help

Good video. Thanks for putting it together. Is that the same method for removing the other hose (the one right next to it.)?

No one said ANYTHING about a tool needed for this job. NAPA should have known this.

How do you remove the other hose is it done the same way? There is no video on it.

Thank you for the info ! Very helpful. God bless you 🙏🏽

what about the other hose how do you get that hose off

Thank you so much this video just save me a lot of time and money thank you

Thank you for your info save some money

I’ve been trying for three hours to try and get the orange 3/4 piece under the connecter but it will not budge and I’ve tried everything.

Thank you you seve my life today 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

First time on your channel 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

Than again please advise how to put the new connector in just push it in twist it or what? I'm confused. Thanks anyway.:(

It would be nice to see a video of somebody disconnecting a perfect one and installing the same one, or a video of one. I'm replacing my heater core on 2000 gmc yukon xl and it has rear a.c. controls and the SUV have more wiring and you have to take out more stuff on the inside. Thanks for the vid tho n e thang helps.

Thanks for the video! Good shit easy fix I was actually about to say give up and then saw this video.

I got the same tool at O'Reilly the orange one fits better