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Today I'm tackling a small adjustment that can greatly impact how easy it is to enjoy your classic or carbureted vehicle. This is also not going into detail of other drivability issues that may be present and can have an impact into how well your classic starts and runs. Choke adjustment is easy to do as long as you keep a few things in mind and understand the components of the system.
The bi-metallic coil expands and contracts when it is heated and cooled. Oftentimes electric chokes are used because of their simplicity and ease of use. The coil has a pad that contacts an arm which manipulates the entire mechanism. That includes the choke butterfly or flap, easily seen on the top of the carburetor, and the idle speed cam which allows for a higher idle when cold to avoid stalling issues. The cold idle has a screw that allows the RPM to be adjusted to the right speed. Not too fast, and not too slow. You will need to work with your combination to find the point where you are happiest with your cold idle.
When the strip is cold and the throttle is actuated, the choke is activated. As the strip warms, the choke is slowly released and allowed to return to its warm or hot idle. The bi-metallic strip is coiled up behind a cover. That assembly can easily be adjusted to provide more choke or less choke depending on your needs. By twisting it, you can effectively make your choke stay active for a longer or shorter period of time. Once again, you will need to work with your combination to make sure that you find the right setting. It is possible to adjust a choke too far and have it not be able to be released.
All of these are consistent with the Carter AFB, Quadrajet, Edelbrock, Holley, or just about any other factory or aftermarket carburetor. Happy tuning and I know that you can get it set the way you want.
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