Thank you sir!

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 great job

@@mikekupetsky6879 👍🏻

Thank you, as a compound shooter for a while this has been the one daunting thing holding me back from spending the money on a traditional setup. Length, weight, arrow, and etc.

Awesome brother stick with it!

😁👍🏻

Thanks brother!

You too brother thanks for watching 👍🏻

Wood is the way to go in my opinion

Thanks for watching my friend let me know if I can help anytime!

Awesome! Thanks for watching 👍🏻

Yes sir I love heavy hitters myself 👍🏻

Awesome buddy thanks 👍🏻

Thank you!

If that doesn’t kill one I don’t know what will lol😁

What length is your draw? What length are your arrows? Thanks

Yes sir they’re definitely all different but that’s the fun part lol

My new morrison I've got a 30 inch 350 with only 225 up front and its too weak I just built some in 300 Spine 31 inch 250 up front and they shoot perfect 55lb bow 608 grain arrow 203fps its crazy that will stop anything I plan to shoot

Thanks brother we’ve got several more coming on detailed arrow building and tuning for different bows as well as broadhead tuning 👍🏻

You should be good with 500’s and the limbs don’t really matter there’s just a little difference in speed like 2-3fps but the string does, make sure you run a quality D97 fast flight string like a TTT and you’ll be good to go my brother!

Thanks Jeff and appreciate you honoring the Lord in your sign offs.

Thank you Steve we really appreciate that! You’re best setup for the Shrew at those specs is going to be an Axis Traditional 400 cut around 29-29.5” with the stainless outserts 75gr and a 200gr quality single bevel broadhead like a Helix or something like that just make sure that the bevel matches the wing of your feathers either right or left, they’re made to rotate inside the animal however they’re spinning in flight but that’s your best bet brother 👍🏻

Thank you for the reply

Lol thanks brother and I appreciate that! My shooting is as purely instinctive as it can be, I’ve learned to focus and trust my sight window that feels right but it would be difficult for me to aim I’m so used to shooting fairly quickly once I’ve come into my anchor and I pretty much just look exactly where I want my arrows to go and let it happen!👍🏻😁

@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 well you have certainly spent lots of hours perfecting instinctive shooting. I love it man, not many people can shoot anywhere near as well as you do. I shoot almost every weekend during the Sumner at trad 3d shoots. And I shoot quite a bit all year round. Simply to be a better shot for hunting season. But I've never seen anybody shoot as consistently accurate as you. Very impressive my friend. My God continue to bless you and yours.

I understand completely just let us know if you to order one, we’ve got every model in production in the 40# range and are setting up hunting arrows for them thanks so much 👍🏻

Well I just got done shooting some of mine with 280 up front out of a 47 pound das bow with Carbon limbs and they were a little stiff so I believe they’re going to be about perfect all you can do is load up a bare shaft and see what they do but my bet is they’ll be right

Yes sir you’ll want to run either a 340 or a 300 depending on just how much point weight you want to use, in your case you’ll have pretty decent arrow weight no matter what so you’ll probably be good with around 200-225 up front and a 340 will probably be good but if you want 250gr or more you’ll most likely have to go up but it greatly depends on the bow itself as in shelf cut and energy in the limbs as to exactly what it’ll like, I’d get a test kit from 3rivers just to find out before ordering anything 👍🏻

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thank you sir for getting back to me. I was hoping to shoot around 250 to 300 grains or so up front and using a 340 Easton Carbon Legacy arrow. I talked to 3 rivers Friday and ordered a set of these 340 Easton’s and the guy on the desk suggested 145-160 grains up front using them. He said that 145 grains would be plenty of hunting power for my set up. Yes it is fast and shoots flat, but I also want plenty of plow and blow through power. But that head weight seems mighty slim to me, especially since this bow is 58lbs. I might need to call them tomorrow morning and stop that order. And get some kind of a test kit with a 300 and a 340 in it just to be safe. Thank you again, you are a fine person Jeff. God bless you sir.

I draw the same 26.5, I have been spending on arrows for 7 years, why until now I started watching this channel and it has changed my life, I am using a longbow 45@27, 400 spine with 300 gr. En la punta

They fly like darts, the arrow is black eagle instinct. And with Axis traditional 500gr. With 230 gr. At the tip. they fly great

Thanks for watching we’re about to bring some really detailed videos on set ups and tuning soon 👍🏻

I think I'm about 32" too and it's making me a bit reluctant to jump into the hobby, have you had any significant issues? I'm looking at getting a Hoyt Satori with long limbs and the 21" riser.

@@FerventReminder Just getting blank arrow shafts long enough is the only real issue. You don't have the benefit of being able to cut small amounts off to fine tune the spine. Also stacking can be an issue but I am mainly a compound shooter so I don't buy really expensive recurves. I did buy a black hunter long bow and for a cheap bow its really nice to shoot with little noticeable stacking. I bought a cheap Hoyt Satori ripoff from China and I have compared it to a friends Hoyt and it identical....it even shoots the same and it cost me less around $120. I did put some reasonably good ILF limbs on it and its a really good setup.

@@dash4177 Okay, that makes sense regarding the shafts and length. Pretty crazy about the Chinese Satori clone, I don't know if I would get one personally but do you remember where you got it? Thanks for the feedback!

@@FerventReminder www.aliexpress.com/item/32989400111.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.78b9485cai61Tn&algo_pvid=15d12a45-1a2b-4505-8387-7dfa45d5ba70&algo_exp_id=15d12a45-1a2b-4505-8387-7dfa45d5ba70-5&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266820371737%22%7D I have taken my limbs off this riser and fitted them to a Satori and I felt no real difference. Not being an American I dont have any loyalty to national brands. My rig is a chinese riser and South Korean limbs

Black eagle vintage arrows are available in 34" length

Thanks John, we’ve built and sold several recurves in the 40# range in the last weeks and the best set up we’ve found on a 28” draw is either a 600 spined axis traditional with about 200gr up front or a 500 gold tip hunter xt cut to 29 1/2” with 100gr brass inserts and a 150gr tip they shoot amazing 👍🏻

If you use hot glue, install a field point and then heat the field point just enough to get the insert to loosen out.

Most likely a 500 with about 250gr up front 👍🏻

340 for sure 👍🏻

Thanks Cory honestly it’s thru practice practice practice and knowing your equipment and what the trajectory of the arrow in a particular bow will be it’s learned through shooting it at all distances and letting the body and mind make it happen, like start at 10 yards and only back up five yards at a time after your groups are tight your instincts will take over at distance just don’t try to second guess it or compensate by aiming and yes Byron is a close family friend and he does shoot split vision which is great at long distance for sure 👍🏻

I started with trying to gap shoot, but over time, I transitioned to totally instinctive. Instinctive is a totally different mentality, as it's based off your body learning the trajectory and the less you think about the shot, and more on burning a hole in the target with your focus, and seeing where in the trajectory or arc of your arrow it hits in relation to that target, your body compensates. I teach it as you know how to hit a can on a fence post with a rock without much thought to it, so in this case, you're throwing a rock (arrow) to hit the can (target). You just have to learn from your rocks where they hit in relation to the can, and without much conscious effort involved. At the end of the day, instinctive requires thousands of shots at different distances and angles to become accurate, but, we only consciously are thinking about good form and good releases each time. Once you find what works for you, you stay with it and tune your arrows and brace heights to squeeze that last bit of performance out each time you lose the string. Mental processes are focused on remaining consistent, and keeping your mind out of the shot, shoot tired, shoot in the rain, wind, snow, etc and remember the only bad shot is one that you didn't learn from. Learn from your own feedback, and enjoy the journey.

Should be a great match for it👍🏻

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thanks, Jeff. Excited to get serious about shooting the trad bow and learning all I can.

Thanks Ray, I surely wouldn’t think so all things being equal the shorter bows actually transfer more energy into the arrow than a longer bow at the same draw length just because of the working of the limbs that’s how I understand it but I don’t think there’s much difference at all 👍🏻

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thanks 🙏. I suspected that might be the case. I have a 52” Browning Nomad Stalker 1 with 50# draw. I had to lighten up my point on a 500 grain shaft because the spine was too weak. I’m trying to calculate whether I should start bare shafting @ 400 spine or maybe stiffer. My actual draw is 29-30. I’ll not hit the woods until I’m confident I can ethically harvest, even if that means missing a few seasons. Your videos are going to save me $$$ and time. Keep ‘em coming 👍🏼

It really depends on the bow, as in how deep it’s cut and how much energy the limbs have as in if it’s a fairly quick recurve or a longbow as well as just how much up front you want to go. In most cases a 340 will handle a lot out of most 60# bows with a full length and around 250gr point weight but honestly I’d get a test kit from serius archery or 3rivers but I’d bet on the 340’s

We’ve got a new 56” Carbon Trace out, you can see them on our website and all the contact information is on there for you brother thanks! www.instinctiveaddictionarcheryllc.com

Oh man a 400 cut around 30 1/2-31” should be capable of tuning with 300gr on a satori or Tbow riser they’re really adjustable for center shot, I ran 400’s with 320 on mine at 28 1/2” no problem 👍🏻

Should be good if you’re shooting around 50 pounds and around 28” or more 👍🏻

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Yep I'm shooting 50lbs at 28 inches. With my riser cut 3/16 past center, my arrow sits straight in line with the string and comes out straight. I want to try a 400 with 250 upfront, but I'm worried that would be too soft.

Sounds like you need a 400 with that long draw using any decent point weight 👍🏻

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Preciate you!

Yes sir you would need to go to a 600 for sure.

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 hello, would you recommend 250 grain up front with a 600 spine?

Yes sir a 600 would be best especially gold tips

I would think a 400 cut 28.5” with 250-275gr up front would be perfect, I’ve had terrible luck with the FMJ’s in the past in colder weather breaking really easy, the axis or even better the gold tip hunter pro’s or XT’s really shoot well and are super tough 👍🏻

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thank you im gonna give that a try and bare shaft tune the best i can. Keep up the isnstructional shooting videos i love em. Have a good one.

I’m a huge fan of the gold tip hunter xt’s and the warriors because they’re fairly light gpi and shoot heavier FOC really well, you’ll probably want a 400 for your setup 👍🏻

@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thank you again! As you were replying, I was on Gold Tips website for the Hunter XT's. LOL It only goes up to a 150gr tip and tells me 340. Could I go up to 300gr on that?

@@victorsutpheniii3374 yes, don’t go by any arrow charts they’re never accurate but a 340 will handle 300 gr up front easily.

If you do you’ll put the compound away lol 😁👍🏻

With a 50# bow you can afford to shoot 4 blades no problem for penetration especially if you shoot a 400 spine gold tip with weighted inserts like 100 grain brass! That’ll be a hard hitting setup for deer👍🏻

what length cut?

Shooting a 550 grain arrow out Of 49 pound Recuve that's all You need 28 inch draw 29 inch arrow.

@@andrewgorden1041 yes sir, it’s actually very critical and can greatly affect everything with the actual spine of the arrow but usually any arrow cut around 28” with 200-275 grains of point weight in the right spine for your setup will shoot good 👍🏻

That particular setup with the Thunderchild was shooting somewhere around the 170fps with the heavy arrows and the double carbon Passion longbows which we build now are running around the upper 180’s with the same setup at a 28” draw with around a 600gr hunting arrow but the heavy arrows are extremely quiet which is most important lol thanks!

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 That is really moving for a longbow, Would you be willing to send me a test sample of one of those bows so I can review it on my KZfaq Channel. I will return it to you after I finish the review . Thank

@@allthingsarcheryandshootin9380 yes sir hopefully we’ll have one available to do that with soon, we’re selling them as fast as we can make them and our orders are out at least three to four months on them right now.

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Sounds good I look forward to reviewing the bow,. by the way I love your sight lots of great info..

The best setup for you would be 500’s cut to 29” with 100gr inserts and probably a 150gr tip for hunting, a 600 with 50gr inserts and 150gr tip would also tune really well for all around shooting in that bow at your draw and poundage, 45# is kinda the borderline to move from 600 to 500 depending on how much weight you want to run total and up front 👍🏻

Thank you so much but unfortunately we decided to close our archery shop back in August as well as the bow building facility, as much as we loved the business it was taking a very serious toll on us especially the building process working with carbon just had to make some tough decisions but it was definitely the right one for us however I do plan to open a full service archery shop and focus on growing the sport!

Your welcome. Man that’s unfortunate but I understand. I wish you the best of luck in your future endeavors!

@@jarred9561 thanks!

Make sure to go with the regular hunter Xt not the traditional xt they are almost 3 grains per inch lighter, the traditional xt’s are just too heavy for most bows for any trajectory but they’re really tough lol👍🏻

Wood is cool but very much an entirely different story as it involves lots more experimenting with spines and getting quality shafts that are consistent from one to the next and the durability just isn’t close to a carbon or aluminum arrow but definitely fun to experiment with lol thanks!

@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 wood pretty durable I always had problems with carbons mushrooming out if you hit something hard.

Yes, 125gr will surely get the job done.

That makes sense, but inertia on impact transfers into the target as kinetic energy. I understand the formulas are different but, a slow moving semi versus a Ferrari does drastically different things when impacting a target, like a moose or a deer. To ethically hunt game, we want to transfer as much of the energy of our limbs, through the string to the arrow to generate enough velocity of a mass to impart as much kinetic energy into the impact of the target as possible, and we have to find a sweet spot within stabilization of the arrow shaft behind the point and speed of the arrow, as well as presenting to the target as much cutting surface as possible (in the case of a broadhead) and with a conservation of the kinetic energy to pass through the animal to lead to easier blood trailing as possible. Adding the weight that he's talking about means that the arrow would look like a spaghetti noodle as soon as the string is loosed, but, with the higher or stiffer spine than normal allows for rebound and compensation, and then the stabilization of the shaft, is added by the fletchings during flight. Extremes in either of these (point weight, helical in the fletching, and spine weight as well as overall weight of the arrow) are outside the norms of what you'd see in target archery with modern equipment, but, I highly doubt that medieval archers or primitive hunters ever took the complexities of archery into consideration while hunting for food or blowing through chest plates at 200 yards. Using modern technology in a form of archery that dates back beyond written history, does take a bit of practice and a whole lot of tinkering to get right. I can definitely forgive the misunderstanding but, at the end of the day, his point is still valid.

@@elijahbasnett4357 Kinetic energy relates to the amount of energy a projectile has available to transfer to a target. Inertia on the other hand (along with Sectional Density) relates to the depth to which a projectile is able to penetrate a target and that is why they are entirely different concepts that require different formula's to calculate Thus, kinetic energy is a good measure of a projectile's ability to produce a large temporary stretch cavity in addition to hydrostatic shock when striking a soft, expandable, target such as a game animal. But, it's not a good measure of how deeply the projectile will penetrate. Thus, although both factors are important when determining a projectile's lethality, they are not the same concepts and many hunters fail to understand that fact. Furthermore, it is also important to understand that a projectile only transfers kinetic energy to a target while it is in contact with the target and thus, as soon as it exits the target, it ceases to transfer kinetic energy. Thus, because both broadheads and arrow shafts tend to pass through a game animal very quickly, they transfer very little of their kinetic energy to the target. Expanding bullets on the other hand tend to remain within the target and thus, they often transfer 100% of their kinetic energy to the target. Therefore, archers should focus on inertia rather than kinetic energy because arrows and broadheads transfer very little of their kinetic energy to a target and thus, they produce a minute temporary stretch cavity and only a deliver a miniscule amount of hydrostatic shock.

instinctiveaddiction@gmail.com

Use hot melt glue like bohning but I always try to determine how much total weight I want to run up front including the broadhead, glue it in and then cut the shaft as needed to tune perfectly 👍🏻