I direct monetized link to the repair part would have made us both happy.

@@user-qx1wl2um2k I am signed up for monetization but not enough views, likes, shares etc!!

👊🏽💯 You are welcome!

Hola, Nicolás, por favor me puedes explicar cómo lo solucionaste? Te lo agradecería mucho.

Also had flashing throttle light

Glad I could be of some help 👍🏽

I'm trying to fix the same year and engine. Autozone says there's not an IAC for this car. Is that what u replaced?

Jordan Curry You are welcome. I see this problem a lot. One of my customers is fighting with a dealership to get back all the money they spent with them trying to chase this problem down. It happens in the 300, Magnum and in the older Intrepid.

@36 purp what is the name the clip or part that he just replaced

Same bro.

Thanks!

P. Tilly You are %💯 Welcome my friend!! 👍🏽

P. Tilly Please subscribe and share 🙏🏽

Did this work for you? I did these exact changes on a 2009 dodge charger 3.5L an now I’m having the exact same problem, the rough idle and shaking is so bad that I cant even drive the car or let it run longer than 30 seconds to check the engine

It did, but I also went ahead and a new sensor as well

Could you tell me what that sensor is called exactly, Im going to try the same thing

Map sensor

I’m an independent mechanic that won’t send anyone to the dealer unless it’s absolutely needed. Unfortunately there are some things and indie like me can’t do only because I can’t read dealer only codes on some makes and models. DIY learning is the best way to know your vehicle is being well maintained. 👍🏽

Same u ever fix that?

I had a similar problem when my car would run to operating temp and I shut it off it would not start back up until ithe car completely cooled off changed my crank sensor and it fixed my problem hope this helps

@@bimmergang2035 any news? Thanks

Egr valve

@@vemomediadigitalmarketing7912You think it’s the EGR valve?

Yeah, the metal EGR tube has a round rubber gasket that can work it’s way too far into the plastic intake housing and allosaurus to be pulled in around it if not placed back correctly. Get a quality Mopar rubber replacement gasket. The AC Delco and FRAM gaskets will eventually leak.

Me toooo

Man, I couldn’t tell you in that one without seeing it myself. That is weird….I would first assume an electrical issue. 🤔

We had those symptoms on a weak fuel pump as well as dirty and/or failing throttle body but start simple first…check wiring and vacuum leaks you’d be surprised how many problems both of those issues cause these engines.

In your case you would want an experienced mechanic to check your intake manifold gaskets and vacuum hoses. You can also have your alternator/charging system checked at one of your local parts stores. Most offer OBDII scanning. 👍🏽

I'm starting to wonder if is my alternator I have a 2006 dodge magnum 2.7 with 234 thousand miles on it,,,I'm the second owner,,,,it looks like the original alternator,,,,most parts have replaced prior,,,then it started acting up again

Following this myself mines does the same at a red light I think it's a vacuum leak imma change the intake spray brake cleaner on your throttle ,intake etc that's how u find the leak

What type gas do you use in ya charger I was wondering will 89 octane damage engine

I do not like the 2.7!! It’s full of problems and it’s a gutless engine. I’ve had this happen, what you mention and for me all I had to do was reset the ECU even though the battery was dead. I could not tell you why this is but it fixed the issue. Smh

@@WarPonyAuto how do you reset

@@ET2carbon Plug the throttle body in completely then use a code scanner to clear the trouble codes, reset the ECU.

Try the intake manifold runner valve

And it could be that u jumped timming ur timming belt could be Stretched and need replaced

Replace the fuel sender unit which it's the one in the passenger side altought if you had never replaced the fuel pump which is the other one located on the passenger driver is not bad idea to replace it too

It could be faulty injectors low fuel pressure/potentially failing fuel pump. It could also be a few other issues as well. A hood mechanic with an in depth scan tool can pin point it for you. 👍🏽

No problem. Glad my video helped you 👍🏽 Please share, like a subscribe.

You may have to go deeper and have the EGR tube rubber seal changed in the back of the upper intake manifold or new upper body brake manifold gaskets. The next step in the process of elimination after that would be to connect the scan tool and read the #5 cylinder while it’s running. Check the fuel injector to be sure that it is working, check the wiring on both the coil and the injector. If none of those are successful you will want to find a mechanic that can do a compression test of the #5 cylinder to see if it could be deeper in the cylinder head but that’s the very last resort. Be sure that the plug on the throttle body is plugged in good and the air cleaner assembly clamps are nice and tight.

You may also want to have your fuel pressure checked.

I’m certain that your problem was actually a bad leaking water pump gasket and/OR bad water pump?! Sorry I didn’t get your comment sooner but I’m sure your problem is the one I listed in my reply.

That could be a few things 🤔 Have your fuel pressure checked. It can be hard to diagnose these issues especially when they do not trip the CEL.

@@WarPonyAuto ya fuel pumps my next project. thanks for the reply man

It was a customers car at the time. I did purchase it, repair and resold it a couple months later but it idled at just under 700rpm, around 660.

I'm about to change my rod bearings and main rod bearings maybe even a connecting rod and piston or 2 or all 6 maybe but shall see when I take the oil pan off and see the crank I may be able to sand it down I'm crossing my fingers for cheap fix I'm young and work fast food and can't afford a $1,300-3000 engine lol especially a dam V6 2.7L hell when I get my driver's license I can't even afford insurance lol as soon as I get insurance I gotta leave my job instantly and go the new one my friend got me but I'm waiting for car to be legal and running right first 🤞it a roofing job pays 2-4k a month and paid weekly would change my life lol but yeah I also have a thunder bolt light on my dash when I start the car but I thought it was rod knock because the engine clicks,starts rough and rattling but it sounds like it coming from the top of the block idk what it could be but I'm hoping this $40 set of rod bearings will fix it and then I'll have it looked at by a mechanic eventually but I'm not driving it till I take a look at the pistons and crankshaft a new crank shaft like $300 not a big deal but getting it out might be lmao 😂☠️ shall see crazy things is there is no lights on the dash no engine light or anything bad but it could also be I haven't ran the car long knowning about the issue from the dude I bought it from also the engine has too much oil in it I guess the dude thought that noise would be fixed by adding oil lol but the car wasn't smoking at all surprisingly but it also has the wrong dipstick lmao I'm looking at around $400-500 to replace/rebuild the engine that's already in the car lol I'm hoping this works I'm planning on Replacing rod bearings and main rod bearings Maybe crankshaft if it's beyond sanding repair lol like minor scratches can be fixed May need new valves and lifters possibly I didn't include that in the estimate tho I don't think I need those

Yeah. You can replace it with a new plug/clip. Partsgeek and 1A Auto.

The best way I found was to put a drop of supper glue on the the out edge o the clip and push the plug all the way on, or if the locking tab is partially broken slid the plug all the way on and then slide a popsicle stick on top of the clip so that the locking clip locks onto the male plug on the throttle body, if that makes sense. You can see how I did it in the video.

I'm sorry I did not see this when you posted it. I would have definitely mentioned to him. I do not have to replace them often. I wedge them or put a drop of super glue at the edge and zip tie it together if the customers do not want to replace them. It will hold. The better method is to clip a 1/8 section of Popsicle stick and wedge it under the locking clip which locks the clip into place. If you opt to change it they will break again. I had one break 3 times in less than 6 months before just telling the customer that it would be best to wedge the clip so that it stays locked. Hasn't had an issue yet.

That’s an electronic throttle issue. The first thing you would want to try is to clean and reset the throttle body. Clean it good then disconnect the battery if you don’t have a scanner or have access to one. Make sure you plug the throttle body wiring harness all the way into the throttle body and it’s not slipping off like stated in this video. Check your battery voltage, clean battery cables etc to rule that out. If that doesn’t work then replace the throttle body (Check Amazon) You can get throttle body / MAS cleaner at Walmart or any auto parts store. Manually open the throttle body and clean it really good. When they are really dirty it can restrict air flow but what you are experiencing is typical of a failed throttle body.

@@WarPonyAuto I am having the same problem with my car

@@WarPonyAuto how do I fix it

@@hopearonson1034 It takes a proper diagnosis but if your is doing the same try cleaning the throttle body. Usually this means the throttle body needs to be reset or replaced.

Dodge/MOPAR/Chrysler electrical clips are known for failing. You can go to partsgeeks.com, A1 auto or ebay & Amazon to buy replacements.

That’s a camshaft position sensor code and Throttle position sensor code. First I would check wiring then replace the camshaft position sensor, clear the codes, test drive and see if the TPS code comes back, if it does the TPS sensor should be replaced. Clear codes and test drive again. It may take a complete drive cycle to see whether the check engine light comes back on or not. That could be anywhere from a mile to 12 miles.

Going through this now and the code read u0100, lack of power connection. It said my ecm/pcm was bad so i took it to my electrician mechanic and they told me it was a bad 02 sensor and my abs

Change your O2 sensors and see if that helps.

You are welcome. PLEASE don't forget to suscribe.

1A auto or Partsgeek. 👍🏽

That sounds like other electrical issues like a bad battery and/or bad alternator.

@@WarPonyAuto ok so now my car is experiencing a low idle now. When I slow down at a light while it’s in drive it seems to drop at 500 rpms and stays there. The car never shut up off or anything “yet” and it seems to kinda struggle hitting 60 or 70 when I step on it. What could that be???

@@WarPonyAuto I also have 3 codes with check engine light.. P0073 P0038 P0462

@@jovontegraham9078 just going by what I’m reading it’s tuff to say but you may have a bad IAC motor (idle air control) in other words the throttle body may be really dirty or fluttering as it may be on the verge of failing. Find a good mechanic or shop in your area and ask them if they can check the throttle body.

@@WarPonyAuto ok thanks

Glad my vid helped. Be sure to like, share and subscribe 👊🏽

I buy replacement plugs/clips through Partsgeek and 1A Auto. 👍🏽

Yes. Just be sure to use injector cleaner at least once every 1-2 months.

It’s pretty clear in all that I’ve stated… there wa nothing wrong with the throttle body! It’s the plug.harness that plugs INTO the throttle body. AS STATED in the vid 👍🏽

P0300 is one of the codes stored with this situation in the video, among 3-4 others but your problem, IF it’s a 2.7 V6, it sounds more like a stretched timing chain and/or bad timing chain tensioner. If it’s a 3.5 v6 then it would be a stretched timing belt. You either should skip the purchase or find a mechanic and get a quote on a timing chain/timing belt replacement job. Those 3 codes are the main 3 that are stored when the timing is off. Now, if it recently had a water pump change both the 2.7 & 3.5 water pumps run off the timing chain and timing belt and it is recommended to put a new timing chain/belt kit with tensioner in while you have it all apart. Some mechanics will try to be cheap and reuse your timing components and they will fail. Typically the 2.7 ends up skipping time due to the crankshaft sprocket being worn down and the teeth don’t grab the chain well. They always end up jumping a few teeth. The 3.5 the belt stretches and timing will slightly be off. It doesn’t skip like the chain but it stretches way more like a worn rubber band. Of course I’m not there to assess it myself so it’s my best guess. Feel free to send more info.

@@WarPonyAuto Well i did buy it and we did a few minor things ourselves based off your video and a few others (cleaned and reset throttlebody, new egr tube gasket, changed plugs, changed camshaft sensor (or crank shaft, whatever one is up top). now itll idle smooth for about 3 mins, then itll drop to about 600 rpm, then sorta sputter but not go off. Driving it, i dont feel any misses, only when coming to an idle). I pulled a new plug and it was sorta of oily (more than i feel it should be) so do you think doing valve covers gaskets? It has 130k on it and when i pulled the plugs they were the original crudy and burnt, so Im thinkin the guy didnt do anything to it

@@TheRobbinbryson Yeah, try replacing the valve cover gaskets 👍🏽 Oil getting into the spark plug cavities is common with worn gaskets. Is the check engine light on?

@@WarPonyAuto it was, but it was p0456.. which I was told could be just gas cap

@@TheRobbinbryson With your idle being affected though I would check vent purge control valve on the charcoal canister IF you replace the gas cap and the codes comes back. Inspect your Evap line from the engine bay back to the fuel tank. It sounds like you are making your way around it and figuring things out. My Charger had low idle after changing the timing chain, tensioner & water pump. I changed the serpentine belt and belt tensioner and the idle went back to normal. I have seen, experienced the rubber seal on the fuel pump where it seats in the gas tank go bad and leak. Couldn’t tell by looking at it that it was bad but after changing it there was a noticeable difference and fuel pressure improved. These Chargers/Chrysler’s can be touchy.

The retainer clips on the Electrical plugs.

@@WarPonyAuto thanks

@@951boogie7 You’re welcome, my friend. 👍🏽 Be sure to like, share & sub. Thanks for watching.

Same here

I’m sorry I missed your question. It can happen anywhere from 30k miles on up. I believe this dodge had 197k miles and only had this issue. The customer brought it to me for a tuneup thinking that is what the issue was. I did the tuneup and had an idea that maybe this Charger had the issue I point out in the vid. I actually ended up buying this Charger a year later and putting a new timing chain kit with new water pump in it. I did a lot of other repairs and customizing to it before reselling it. As far as I know it’s running great at about 285k on it now 👍🏽

Check your engine mounts & transmission mount. If you do not have an illuminated check engine light and the mounts are good you may simply need a tuneup. Clean your throttle body as well. It could be several different issues but start with the basics. 👍🏽 If you need help you can find me on Facebook “WarPony Auto”. You can communicate with me there.

Start with the process of elimination. Check the motor mounts and serpentine belt but with these vehicles being brand new those two issues are probably not your problem. You could try cleaning the throttle bodies, be sure your air filters aren't dirty or just replace them. One issue that I have found is that the newer Dodges (most newer vehicles) simply do nit like cheap gas. Regardless of what the manufacturer states do not use low octane fuel. Always pay the extra for high octane fuel. If these were zero mile vehicles when you bought them this would not apply but you can always do a tune up. And yes, make sure that your throttle body is plugged in, however, if it were not plugged in correctly you would have a lot more going on then just a shake at idle. As always it is tuff to diagnose a vehicle without having it in front of me. Hopefully these ideas will help. If the dealer can't find anything wrong you can always try a reputable shop in your area.

Same problem on my 2016 300 shakes the car at idle just enough to where you barely feel it but enough the be annoying. No codes on the dash. Did you ever find a fix?

@@dominick8648 Nope love the car smooth when driving but shake at idle or when stopped annoying as hell!

@@dominick8648 with yours being a 2016 change your serpentine belt and belt tensioner. Also check your harmonic balancer to be sure it isn’t separating. With the car running check the harmonic balancer. If it looks even a little off that could be your problem. A complete tuneup and fuel injector cleaner would eliminate the spark plugs, dirty fuel injectors being a problem.

@@WarPonyAuto already tried the fuel system cleaner same problem, I’ll check into what you told me thanks appreciate it

Use an OBD2 code reader. You can buy cheap one at Walmart, Amazon, EBay or Harbor Freight.

I’ve seen them get pretty high mileage, one as high at 340k miles.

It's drives and turns on after a couple tries now it's just started acting like this after a week of getting the oil change , it isn't driving the best sounds loud and a knocking noise

Also I stopped driving it once it started acting like this

What codes are stored?

Tony MTA Yeah, they’re nice, dependable. Dodge has a decent warranty for all their new vehicles. 👍🏽

I will never buy a Chrysler junk car again. 3 years in junk

boricua4eva821 Thanks for sharing that. 👍🏽

boricua4eva821 thanks for help me ! I think I will buy camry better

@@watchmanexpert yeah get a Toyota. Chrysler's are mostly junk these days.

Reset it with an ODB2 code reader, or disconnect the battery for 15 min.

Same here

Throttle body connector

Sorry Bud. I’ve been busy working and haven’t had much time to get on KZfaq but I’ll check out your videos 👍🏽 Like, Share, subscribe and I’ll do the same.

Did it help u

Multiple misfire DTC’s along with misfire DTCs for each cylinder and an MAF sensor code. ALL went away after fixing this problem.

They didn't. They made a 2.7 L

Chrysler 2.7 v6

@@WarPonyAuto but why?

@@1pyroace1 I can’t tell you why. 🤷🏽‍♂️

Idle air control issues can throw a lot of codes as it affects everything just about.

That’s a cylinder #1 misfire. Try changing or swapping the spark plugs #1 & #2. If you get a p0302 then you know it’s a bad spark plug. If it still misfires and gives a p0301 then try swapping the coil with the #2 coil and if it gives you a p0302 then you know the coil is bad. If it still throws the p0301 code then it may be a deeper problem such as the cylinder head. You would then want to do a compression check.

😥

If everything has been replaced then I assume the spark plug and coil have been replaced? That’s the first step. Swap the coil and see if the misfire moves if it doesn’t then swap the spark plugs or buy a single spark plug and test it then. If all you are getting is a cylinder #1 misfire code and no other codes and everything has indeed been replaced then you want to follow the coil wires to the number one coil to be sure they are not frayed or grounding out, which does happen as the #1 cyl wires snake around a few areas where they can wear or get pinched. Other than that it’s tough to say what your problem could be. A bad ECU (computer) is one of the last things to check in the process of elimination method. Good luck to you. Sorry I didn’t answer sooner. I’ve been busy. 😊

Also, you may want to ask them if it’s not the intake manifold gaskets or a vacuum leak. The steel EGR tube has a small rubber gaskets that can wear out and all extra air in the through the EGR inlet hole that the EGR tube goes into the upper intake manifold. Extra air affects the #1 cylinder.

Yes they did replace the egr valve to and they said the intake manifold looked fine I will have someone check the wires because yes the only code now after all of that is still cylinder 1 but they all keep saying it has to be the pcm and I just don’t have that kind of money to dish out to the car company they call say Chrysler has to do it if it’s the pcm and they want 900

Desiree SaintRare Thats no good! Replacing the pcm can be done by buying a USED pcm, taking it to the dealership service department with your vehicles vin # and have it reflashed. You will also need your mileage just in case. Then you can have a shop install the pcm.

Those are camshaft and throttle position sensor codes. Check the wiring to both sensors, clear the codes, test drive then replace both sensors if CEL comes back on, codes persist.

I’m having these exact two same codes!! 2009 challenger r/t with rough idle. Did you ever figure it out?

😂👍🏽👊🏽

Multiple misfire along with misfire DTC’s for each cylinder, along with a MAF sensor DTC.

Thanks bro! Please subscribe and check back often.

mine idles at 600rpm, feels low to me though.

550-650 Rpm’s is in the normal range of course there are various factors as to why an idle within the normal range may not “feel” right. Engine mounts, transmission mounts, fuel pressure, dirty throttle bodies and fuel systems, dirty MAS/air filter, and even bad/failing sensors can alter your engines performance just enough to not cause much of a difference in idle rpm’s but enough to “feel” that something isn’t right. Like a subscribe, stay tuned… I have a video coming up that explains this topic of rpms and how your vehicles idle may not feel right and maintenance that can be performed via the process of elimination method starting out with the easiest most obvious working towards the more complex problems. 👍🏽

Damn! That's crazy. I had a Dodge "Tech" that I had to block because he accused me of telling people about this that the manufacturer knows b ut it's used as a ploy to get people to trade them in. They then fix them and resell or send them to the auction block, among many other ridiculous claims. smh I hope you subscribe and thanks fir the comment.

It's a 2005 chrysler 300

It sounds like you have a steering wheel protrusion issue. Then again it could be a bad SAS sensor (steering angle sensor). You will need to find a mechanic that has a scan tool that can also read/reset ABS codes. It could be several other issues as well but it would take a hands on diagnoses to know for sure.