Clash of the Titans - Should it be upgraded to 9b?

  Рет қаралды 67,962

Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert

7 ай бұрын

Jakob Schubert and ‪@steghiso‬ meet at Nassereith in Tirol to check out the ‪@alexandermegosAM‬ test-piece "Clash of the Titans" which he graded 9a+ after making the first ascent in 2017. Jakob has repeatedly tried the route over the last years and after finally sending it he believes the route deserves an upgrade but seeks another opinion by Stefano first ...
Realized by ‪@alpsolutpictures3547‬ and ‪@supportatthecrag‬

Пікірлер: 65
@ant987
@ant987 7 ай бұрын
"Maybe i'm really weak" - Jakob Schubert after sending another 9b
@pierocus3261
@pierocus3261 7 ай бұрын
"it s super good the next one" proceeds to a tre finger shitty sloper 🤣
@jens1525
@jens1525 7 ай бұрын
Thanks for the honest contribution. I am looking forward to Jakob's continuation on Seb's 9c DNA. I wish for Seb in particular that his routes, especially these from other top climbers, would be recognised.
@observing7312
@observing7312 7 ай бұрын
I completely agree. It would be good to see others repeat some of Seb Bouin's routes.
@Hopesfallout
@Hopesfallout 7 ай бұрын
Awesome video about the many intricacies of grading at this level. There are so many variables, it's cool that the most elite climbers seem to approach grading more like a friendly conversation these days.
@RipperJack77
@RipperJack77 7 ай бұрын
Considering there is maybe 10 people on Earth who can climb more than one 9b, the grading is almost an impossible task
@PaoloCaglioLMT
@PaoloCaglioLMT 7 ай бұрын
"Just jump, it's super good up there!" said Spiderman to Venom
@Hispaclimbing
@Hispaclimbing 7 ай бұрын
I pay internet for this. Thanks!!
@bao.ng04
@bao.ng04 7 ай бұрын
Stefano downgrading Alex’s 9c :), Stefano upgrading Alex’s 9a+ :|
@jonathanrossddsmhs1271
@jonathanrossddsmhs1271 7 ай бұрын
The world’s two greatest down graders are up grading a route? Is this April Fools Day?
@Miura.Powers
@Miura.Powers 7 ай бұрын
3. Adam thought its 9b too ;)... so its probably 9b+ :D
@arrrriba
@arrrriba 6 ай бұрын
When Stefano said something along the lines of Jakob is known for being a brutal downgrader I was like ... are you talking about yourself lol
@babsds0
@babsds0 6 ай бұрын
We still haven't heard from Seb Bouin though...
@Woopark22
@Woopark22 2 ай бұрын
As we’ve learned in the modern day, maybe an A2
@aidanscarffe5256
@aidanscarffe5256 7 ай бұрын
Amazing looking line and moves! Megos seems to have been in incredible shape on this trip, he also did jungle boogie in Ceuse soon after in 3 goes when most people say it’s hard 9a+ . Thanks for the honest discussion. Crazy it took you longer than any other 9a+ / 9b …
@thedevon8016
@thedevon8016 7 ай бұрын
good stuff! thanks Jakob for giving these insights
@HippieDreamsWV
@HippieDreamsWV 7 ай бұрын
Awesome! Strong AF! Great to see you working with Stefano!
@Landolini
@Landolini 7 ай бұрын
awesome Video! That route really looks super hard and sustained and if you struggled so much, that also means a lot!
@hansfrost-schimpf2110
@hansfrost-schimpf2110 7 ай бұрын
Thanks for the great video!
@DrewNorthup
@DrewNorthup 7 ай бұрын
Humility is something to be celebrated. I appreciate the way you approach the subject and the way you chose to discuss it.
@YuniorBarbanOficial
@YuniorBarbanOficial 7 ай бұрын
Great video, like your honesty Jakob
@solomonreinman7452
@solomonreinman7452 7 ай бұрын
Excellent collab
@libre2grimper
@libre2grimper 7 ай бұрын
Love when routes get upgraded!
@frr1107
@frr1107 7 ай бұрын
very insightful and interesting
@realidadaparte
@realidadaparte 7 ай бұрын
Grading has always had and will always have a certain level of subjectivity. Given that, for me, at the end, the grade that it is important for me is the one that I give to a route I send. Sometimes it can be higher than on the guides and sometimes it can be lower. It doesn’t make any good to me to self-delude or to underestimate my own achievements.
@purpasteur
@purpasteur 7 ай бұрын
This was a great video
@tgiltheisraeligamer2922
@tgiltheisraeligamer2922 7 ай бұрын
JAKOB ADAM AND ALEX UPLOADING AT THE SAME TIME
@johnjordansailing
@johnjordansailing 7 ай бұрын
Two of my favorite pro climbers.
@paulzauner6896
@paulzauner6896 7 ай бұрын
tried another route there, sharing the first half with cot, quite happy to see even stefano struggle on those moves😅
@BuffaloError
@BuffaloError 7 ай бұрын
9:16 really weak at that style💀
@aladeenmadafaka6286
@aladeenmadafaka6286 5 ай бұрын
Looks hard hard. Climbing world need more options about this, Adam can go for it!
@pat13487
@pat13487 24 күн бұрын
❤❤❤
@friendlycocks8672
@friendlycocks8672 7 ай бұрын
i really i enjoy this type of videos. it's allways a pleasure to see a hard attempts but i dont't understand why would you cut at the most interesting part while clipping the rope? like at 9:50 Jakob is fighting to stay on the wall, cut and at 9:54 he is already clipped
@HavelockBanana
@HavelockBanana 7 ай бұрын
theCrag
@nutscream
@nutscream 7 ай бұрын
"Maybe I'm really weak at that style." ....
@floijd
@floijd 7 ай бұрын
So Megos' routes, no matter what he says, can be assumed to be 9b/+? 😄
@davidmeyer8974
@davidmeyer8974 7 ай бұрын
Maybe they want Alex to try to find another 9c possibility
@gaspardvidal1106
@gaspardvidal1106 7 ай бұрын
Grades grades GRADES and again grades…
@blazpeunik464
@blazpeunik464 7 ай бұрын
Ghisolfi came along? So it's 8b now?
@timstorch1182
@timstorch1182 7 ай бұрын
Hey Jakob, is there a BIG video coming up?
@mattiasgonczi
@mattiasgonczi 7 ай бұрын
When sending a 9c justcwasn't enough to win the 9b-counter? ;)
@ripapa6355
@ripapa6355 7 ай бұрын
5.9 at my gym.
@user-vv5fh9uk7k
@user-vv5fh9uk7k 7 ай бұрын
好厉害
@higaski
@higaski 7 ай бұрын
Probably brought the "wrong" man for this task. After Stefano has been on it it will be 8c+ 😂
@leoglenat4706
@leoglenat4706 7 ай бұрын
Let Seb Bouin come he’ll do it in 3 days.
@ianwoodvine5558
@ianwoodvine5558 7 ай бұрын
They are only foot and hand holds if you're 50% spider or gecko 😆😆😆
@the_zenclimber
@the_zenclimber 7 ай бұрын
Why is upgrading such a big deal? If all beta is known, too soft or too hard grades would mathematically appear with the same rate. Still, people downgrade faster than they upgrade... and it all has to do with ego. Some guys are known for sandbagging, look at most Ramon Puigblanque FAs, look at Adam Ondra's Czech routes, but that's just explained as sandbagged. Downgrading is explained by easier beta, but upgrading looks like a humiliation for oneself - "the other guy is stronger than me"... - which it's not. The other guy was just wrong, that's all. We all make mistakes.
@leomonrom193
@leomonrom193 7 ай бұрын
Making up for the downgrades
@theperserker
@theperserker 7 ай бұрын
So no 9b took you this much effort. Why is it not a 9b/+ oder 9b+ then? :P
@recbeatloop
@recbeatloop 5 ай бұрын
9b s are rather rare in Tirol
@TheMegaMrMe
@TheMegaMrMe 7 ай бұрын
Megos and Ondra on wooden holds indoors while you out there crushing with Stefano
@chazott
@chazott 7 ай бұрын
? Megos is projecting next level shit at the red bruh
@user-bx4zq7fx7e
@user-bx4zq7fx7e 7 ай бұрын
@@chazottyeah but he just uploaded an epic video with a lead route made with wooden holds
@Nubedeldesatardecer
@Nubedeldesatardecer 7 ай бұрын
Titanes
@jordanlewis3790
@jordanlewis3790 7 ай бұрын
Grades arent that important. There is only drama in the high grades because its in the public eye. You cant distill a climb down to a single grade. Certain climbs might not suit some people's style so it could be harder for some people than others.
@user-im7db9kn6u
@user-im7db9kn6u 7 ай бұрын
💯 👌
@andrewhunter6536
@andrewhunter6536 7 ай бұрын
Grades are important. Sucks to get to the 6th pitch on something and discover you are way out your depth. Also important for picking out single pitch stuff too obvious but wanted to go with an obvious bad situation
@BranwellHaworth
@BranwellHaworth 7 ай бұрын
I always liked the old British grades with a grade for overall difficulty and then one for the difficulty of the hardest mode. This then got combined with sports grading quite effectively, such that 8a 6C would probably have no more than one hard move and that near a rest, while 8a 6B would be more sustained with several moves in a row at the lower grade. Hence, Ben Moon's definition of 8c as "when 6C is no longer that hard and 6B is approaching a rest".
@paulmitchell5349
@paulmitchell5349 7 ай бұрын
2 ascents in 6 years. 9B is a no brainer.
@gamantri6540
@gamantri6540 7 ай бұрын
Yeah Jakib, that's your answer right there, you are just really weak 🤣
@alexanderbonnet3494
@alexanderbonnet3494 7 ай бұрын
Also wenn 9c geht ,,,,müsste 9a+ ja fast onsight gehen…😮
@upsupra
@upsupra 7 ай бұрын
Great video and discussion. Did you resend it for the video? It brought up the question: what's the hardest route you've send twice or more?
@ochoymedio78
@ochoymedio78 7 ай бұрын
I think he didn't resend it, 'cos when he starts the crux the carabiner is unclipped, but after, when he goes to the "super good one" as Jakob said to Stefano, he's clipped.
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