Great job of explaining the subject and how to fix runout!
@JeffsShop Жыл бұрын
Thanks Flash.
@844metalman Жыл бұрын
Really informative video Jeff... I appreciate your explanation of the different bearing shieldings and the tolerance classification... Very enlightening...
@JeffsShop Жыл бұрын
thank you
@robjohnston52928 ай бұрын
Thanks for the clear, concise explanation. I, in fact, was measuring run-out on the chuck and I had the dial indicator at an angle. This was the first time ever using a dial indicator for me. Looks like I'll get some more practice in after I remove the chuck, which will be after i figure out how to remove the chuck.
@JeffsShop8 ай бұрын
Thank you and I have a video that covers removing the chuck and almost everything you could ever need to know about the Jacob’s Chuck. Here you go: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZsWTltJ1s92rmaM.htmlsi=FqdSw4xezEAkPATF
@waltsmith1305 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. so I saw another one out in the wild for an excellent price. I need another project like i need...I hate the thought of these items landing in a dump. Would you jump? They do not make em like this anymore.
@JeffsShop Жыл бұрын
Thank you for watching. Absolutely, I purchase Classic Craftsman Drill Presses anytime I find them and the condition and price are right. Of all the tools I rebuild, the drill press is what I enjoy working on the most.
@JasonGrace110 ай бұрын
I appreciate this Jeff, great insight.
@JeffsShop10 ай бұрын
You are welcome and thank you for watching.
@jimfiles33079 ай бұрын
Jeff, excellent work on creating this video series. By far, you have the best information. I believe in one of your final videos you have a light installed. It appears to be very bright. Do you have any pictures of how you mounted it and what brand of light you used. Thanks again my friend.
@JeffsShop9 ай бұрын
Thank you Jim. I responded to your question from the private mail on Garage Journal Forum. I heavily modify the head and fabricate a light to work in the 100/150 series. Its not smoothing that most people could do. In the future I may do a short series on how to fabricate a more universal light for my viewers. For now I recommend a magnetic tool light similar to this one: www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lumens-Machine-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B0B3VV3V1K/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=27I75V3S9OHRV&keywords=drill%2Bpress%2Blight&qid=1697990827&sprefix=drill%2Bpress%2Bligh%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
@joshthomasYouTube Жыл бұрын
Nice description of bearings and diagnosis of runout, and where it tends to come from on these guys- thanks for this video! Very helpful. Love the deadblow correction method! I hope I'm not nitpicking here, just clarifying- All of your measurements for the runout are really in thousandths of an inch (.001") and not hundred thousandths (.00001"), correct? There were a few measurements called out in hundred thousandths
@JeffsShop Жыл бұрын
Thank you, and you are correct the measurements were all in thousandths or an inch .001 and I probably did slip up and say hundred thousandths a few times. I get tongue tied when using those terms at times.
@Jayspiesaresquared7 ай бұрын
I appreciate all the information here, this channel is a amazing resource for vintage tool owners! I isolated the run out to my spindle. But I don’t have a lathe hold the spindle to wack it back into alignment. Any suggestions on how I can fix this problem? Background: spindle has no run out where bottom barring would be. Run out starts where the bottom collar is, where the bottom bearing sits.
@JeffsShop7 ай бұрын
You will need to secure the spindle, you can place it in a vise or clamp it to a flat surface.
@Jayspiesaresquared7 ай бұрын
Thanks Jeff, would applying heat to the taper be okay or would that deform the part too much?
@JeffsShop7 ай бұрын
@@Jayspiesaresquared applying heat is ok but dont get carried away. I have never used heat to bend a spindle, only to remove a stuck chuck or remove the blind taper pin holding the thrust collar. Assuming the bend is minor, heat should not be needed.
@TradeWorks_Construction6 ай бұрын
I was wondering wouldn’t it have made more sense for Vintage Craftsman machines to have used the 1623 (Outer Diameter x Bore x Width 1-3/8”x 5/8” x 7/16”) Bearing instead of the 6202 with a specially oversized 5/8” bore for the Bearings or is this one of those things that original manufacturing just designed around parts that were readily in abundance?
@JeffsShop6 ай бұрын
Outstanding Question! Unfortunately, we will never get a definitive answer; however, I believe you are correct that the bearings (6205 special bore 5/8”) were widely available. They are used on several other Craftsman power tools made by King Seeley and inside some motors. I believe a similar situation also include the use of water pump/ shaft bearings used in the 6” x 42” belt sander and the 12” band saws (Both 2-sheel and 3-wheel).
@christopherrussell30125 ай бұрын
@jeffshop do you cover the vise you are @15:07 in any of your videos ? What type of a vise setup is that ? Thanks!
@JeffsShop5 ай бұрын
I have not done a video on it yet. My vise is a vintage AMC Float Lock Vise; however, Wahlstrom has the patent now and they are sold by the Penn Tool Company. They are not cheap, like $349.95 or more. If you get one for a drill press you want model number M1-89-18-9.
@JackMattson-ts3mt2 ай бұрын
DO YOU REBUILD CRAFTSMAN DRILL PRESS
@JeffsShop2 ай бұрын
I do. I am in Georgia.
@JackMattson-ts3mt2 ай бұрын
How do I get hold of you
@JeffsShop2 ай бұрын
@@JackMattson-ts3mt go to my KZfaq Channel page then click on the links section at the top then view email.