Glad that you enjoyed the video!

Glad that you found it helpful!

It is more common for climbers to injury their A2 because it undergoes more stress during the crimp grip and two tendons (instead of one for the A4) pass under it. A4 injuries that occur more often my be from individual anthropometrics (possible longer middle phalinx or more distal A4 creating a sharper friction angle) among other factors such as grip selection, genetics, previous injury, etc...

Thank you for sharing your story. Treating joint contractures quickly is very important. Get in with a local certified hand therapist and make sure you have a direct line of communication with your orthopedist. That way you know how much Yom push it without causing more irritation. Best of luck.

Basically the ring and middle have more force intensity and are closer to their rupture threshold. Directly from the article: Results showed that two main factors could explain the enhanced exposure of ring and middle fingers. Firstly, the fingertip force intensities applied by these two fingers were higher than those observed for the index and little fingers. Secondly, results show that the pulley forces of the ring and middle fingers were close to their rupture thresholds, while it was not the case for the two other fingers.

There is a typo in the slide and I believe you misspoke and said ring instead of little. @@TheClimbingDoctor

@@DiggaDiggaDug Thanks for the catch. I've corrected this in the source material (it is pulled from a course on pulley injuries) but won't be able to correct on KZfaq without re-uploading. Hopefully if someone is confused they can reference this thread!

See comment above for the full article link.

3 finger drags are safer on the pulleys (although be aware of your pinky position), but "intense hangboarding" with the grip still loads the pulleys - especially when on small edges with added weight. Hangboarding for pulley rehab (even from a minor sprain) should have two components. "No Pain Hangs" and "Low Pain Hangs." Based on the stage of healing, you can first implement "No Pain Hangs" and then progress to "Low Pain Hangs" which are higher intensity. I made a video going through the full process, see the link below: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iayhdMV8t7_bl6s.html

Here is an article with a link to the table and the studies referenced: theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-pulley-injury-anatomy-biomechanics-and-research/

The best contact is through the webpage at theclimbingdoctor.com

@@TheClimbingDoctor Okay. I tried calling the number there and I also sent an email using the email address on the website.

@@EmmanuelStewartStewarty17 Dr. Vagy receives a high volume of requests, please be patient and you will receive a response.

Haha, yeah I know! For context - these videos were originally made just for medical providers - but I have had so many climber ask me detailed questions about anatomy and biomechanics that I thought it I would just share the video for free with everyone. Some climbers really like the detail while some prefer it to be more simple. At some stage I will film another - less detailed video - but for now I hope you were able to learn from this one!