Amazing review! thanks, Dr, I always learn a lot from your videos and from your book! Happy to see some quality professionals, like yourself, dedicated to the climbing world! hugs from Brazil!
@TheClimbingDoctor2 жыл бұрын
Glad that you enjoyed the video!
@jesseshircliff224710 ай бұрын
At first I thought you were moving quick but this was super informative. Thank you!
@TheClimbingDoctor10 ай бұрын
Glad that you found it helpful!
@vansaant7 ай бұрын
Thanks for this video Dr. Vagy. I know it’s more common for climbers to injure their A2, but I tend to have exclusively A4 problems. I’ve never seen a good explanation of why that might be. Do you think it could be due to preferred grip type, or hand/finger shapes?
@TheClimbingDoctor7 ай бұрын
It is more common for climbers to injury their A2 because it undergoes more stress during the crimp grip and two tendons (instead of one for the A4) pass under it. A4 injuries that occur more often my be from individual anthropometrics (possible longer middle phalinx or more distal A4 creating a sharper friction angle) among other factors such as grip selection, genetics, previous injury, etc...
@vivayo4588 Жыл бұрын
I'm a climber and I can attest to climbing pully injuries due to overuse. Now, I managed to hyperextend (bend blackguard) my little finger, on the left hand. The hand specialist says is a volar plate injury (x-ray was normal) and to keep on moving the finger. But it is locked at 90 degrees and hurts like hell if I try to mobilize it. The joint is red and whole finger is swollen ( end of 3rd week now ) I fear I am not doing the correct rehab ...
@TheClimbingDoctor Жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing your story. Treating joint contractures quickly is very important. Get in with a local certified hand therapist and make sure you have a direct line of communication with your orthopedist. That way you know how much Yom push it without causing more irritation. Best of luck.
@simpleffective186 Жыл бұрын
I don't understand 5:40 points 2 and 3. It seems that you say one thing and the opposite regarding the index finger and the ring finger.. can you explain please?
@TheClimbingDoctor Жыл бұрын
Basically the ring and middle have more force intensity and are closer to their rupture threshold. Directly from the article: Results showed that two main factors could explain the enhanced exposure of ring and middle fingers. Firstly, the fingertip force intensities applied by these two fingers were higher than those observed for the index and little fingers. Secondly, results show that the pulley forces of the ring and middle fingers were close to their rupture thresholds, while it was not the case for the two other fingers.
@DiggaDiggaDug10 ай бұрын
There is a typo in the slide and I believe you misspoke and said ring instead of little. @@TheClimbingDoctor
@TheClimbingDoctor10 ай бұрын
@@DiggaDiggaDug Thanks for the catch. I've corrected this in the source material (it is pulled from a course on pulley injuries) but won't be able to correct on KZfaq without re-uploading. Hopefully if someone is confused they can reference this thread!
@wildliveunit292 Жыл бұрын
id love to read the studies by myself. could you copy some links in the description?
@TheClimbingDoctor Жыл бұрын
See comment above for the full article link.
@Haglar62 жыл бұрын
If the force is about 30 times more when crimping vs open handed, would it be possible to continue doing intense hangboarding with a 3 finger drag when recovering from a minor A2 pulley strain?
@TheClimbingDoctor2 жыл бұрын
3 finger drags are safer on the pulleys (although be aware of your pinky position), but "intense hangboarding" with the grip still loads the pulleys - especially when on small edges with added weight. Hangboarding for pulley rehab (even from a minor sprain) should have two components. "No Pain Hangs" and "Low Pain Hangs." Based on the stage of healing, you can first implement "No Pain Hangs" and then progress to "Low Pain Hangs" which are higher intensity. I made a video going through the full process, see the link below: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iayhdMV8t7_bl6s.html
@wildliveunit292 Жыл бұрын
where can I find the table shown at the end
@TheClimbingDoctor Жыл бұрын
Here is an article with a link to the table and the studies referenced: theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-pulley-injury-anatomy-biomechanics-and-research/
@EmmanuelStewartStewarty172 жыл бұрын
Hey Dr. How can I get in contact with you? I have a few question, Can I email or call?
@TheClimbingDoctor2 жыл бұрын
The best contact is through the webpage at theclimbingdoctor.com
@EmmanuelStewartStewarty172 жыл бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor Okay. I tried calling the number there and I also sent an email using the email address on the website.
@TheClimbingDoctor2 жыл бұрын
@@EmmanuelStewartStewarty17 Dr. Vagy receives a high volume of requests, please be patient and you will receive a response.
@kunald77323 ай бұрын
Bro your videos need to be dumbed down for average person.
@TheClimbingDoctor2 ай бұрын
Haha, yeah I know! For context - these videos were originally made just for medical providers - but I have had so many climber ask me detailed questions about anatomy and biomechanics that I thought it I would just share the video for free with everyone. Some climbers really like the detail while some prefer it to be more simple. At some stage I will film another - less detailed video - but for now I hope you were able to learn from this one!