Not a particularly informative video as I had camera issues, but a little something for the P38 guys Mike PS the pump is ruining fine!

For my 98 I installed an Airtex E3270 purchased on Amazon. You don't need to replace the whole frame unless the level sender is bad. For my 2000 I bought a pump and necessary fittings from Quantum Fuel Systems.

The beauty of the D2 - access port for the fuel pump. I spent a day under my Defender in Namibia in a borrowed shop dropping my tank - 70L of diesel to deal with, too. These pumps don't always die a sudden death. They can just slowly lose power

While watching this video I had a flash back from the past ( 50years ). It was when we had a slow puncture, or back when all tyres had inner-tubes and if they had perished and gone poruss. We let all the air out of the tyre by taking the valve core out, then with the help of a tube we would take a mouthful of milk and blow it into the tyre a few times. It worked great as long as you run the wheel for a while to make the milk circulate round the tyre, after a while the milk would go cheesy, and when it leaked out into the fresh air went a bit hard and sealed the leaks, we never had a failure with doing this. You can imagine what an easy option that was compared with stripping down a 10.00 X 20 ins wheel and tyre that had a split rim, and all by hand. I thought that might make you and some of your apprentices laugh Mike. As we say in Yorkshire. --- no bugger's learned up. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.

Plenty to fix on a P38! Nice looking though and no rust.

Really like your presentation style. Could we say "No nonsense Yorkshireman." Always learn something

With owners permission, we sometimes make an access panel in the load area floor.

I still think that the P38 is the best looking Range Rover they made

They do reward attention!

On These jobs mike I use a 500 volt insulation tester on the wiring....or Megger...for a trade name. The higher voltage will find ifffy cable insulation

I thought the OEM pumps were VDO, like on the D2 diesels. Speaking of that, I reckon if I had a P38 I'd cut a hole in the floor and get a cover plate from a D2 and screw it on there. Having to drop the tank to change something as fickle as a Land Rover fuel pump is nuts. Especially if someone before has fitted a cheap one.

I’m in the same situation at the moment Mike, the old mans discovery 4 has had a problem with the sender unit in the tank, it’s been on and off for months but about 3 months ago it stopped working...anyway he kept on using it and the other day it cut out on the motorway! Apparently it’s been left for so long it’s telling the car it’s out of fuel and makes the engine misfire and cut out, bloody dangerous as as soon as it cuts out the steering is super heavy.. I managed to drive it home and it’s the pump/sender and because he’s not had a working gauge it’s been kept full... No drain plug so after braking and cornering hard the gauge appeared so I’ve been driving it and now have it down on the red..bloody stupid not having a drain plug but that’s the modern Land Rover for you..

Is that a German number plate Mike? Possiibly Hanover?

Some good information. I'll play around with the fuses of my P38 and see if that fixes my heated seats! Question. what is your opinion on the lack of available accesories for P38 vehicles? I've being looking for an off-road bar for mine, but I haven't being able to find a specific one for the P38. Can I fit an off road bar designed to fit a Discovery II onto my 96 P38????

so have you ever done anything with a diesel p38 that wont start when hot and start fine when cold or warm this fresh one ive got wont start when at running temp any advise would be great

"dish wash soap" and pointing out irony for things which are not ironic. The terrors of North American English strike.

Are you sure it’s not just the box that’s made in the UK .If you haven’t got enough time in the day to film your going to have to start a night shift .