Complete Guide to Carabiners - Shapes, Styles & How they Fail

Complete Guide to Carabiners - Shapes, Styles & How they Fail | Ep.2

Рет қаралды 669,186

Күн бұрын

Detailed Class on Carabiners. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on loads lower than what they are rated for (kN on the spine of the Carabiner) and how to avoid that.
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🔗 FULL PLAYLIST:
• Belay Masterclass
00:00 Intro
00:44 Aluminium Alloy
01:34 Steel
01:54 Hot-Forged
02:48 Shapes - Oval vs D
03:55 Shapes - HMS (Pear)
05:08 Shapes - Belay carabiners
06:52 Shapes - QuickLink
07:43 Gate - Non-Locking
08:59 Gate - How to Correctly use 2 non-locking carabiners?
10:22 Gate - Screw gate
11:17 Gate - Auto-Locking
13:24 Size - Is smaller better?
14:57 Strength - What matters in real world?
18:08 Strength - Can you break Cross-Loaded carabiner?
19:44 Strength - Nose Hook - Dangerous!
20:59 Strength - Carabiner bent over the edge
22:10 Strength - Triload
24:08 When to Retire your carabiner?
25:43 Microfractures - Can you Drop your carabiner?
27:20 Bonus question
� Choosing Guide for Beginners
For bolted single pitch climbing:
1x Belay Device Carabiner:
Mammut Bionic Cross Lock - bit.ly/3AagrPT
Mammut Smart HMS - bit.ly/3AdgcmS
Black Diamond Grid Lock
EDELRID HMS Bulletproof
1-2x small size, D shape, autolocker or screw gate for Tether / Lanyard or other use cases (having multifunctional carabiners is always handy):
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
The fastests screw gate I've ever tried, but most of them work fine, so choose whatever is pretty to you.
For bolted multipitches you might want to add:
2x small, D shape screw gate for connecting anchor to bolts:
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
1x bigger, screw or autolocker for Master point:
Workhorse HMS: bit.ly/3jmlNRh
* Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit.
❤ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me
hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
❤ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode!
� Additional resources:
Corrosion in Climbing Carabiners rockclimbingcompany.blogspot....
Forces at work in a real fall
www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/For...
Black Diamond QC LAB: WEAKNESS OF NOSE-HOOKED CARABINERS
www.blackdiamondequipment.com...
DMM Nose Hooked tests
dmmwales.com/knowledge/may-20...

Пікірлер: 787

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks to multiple comments - Little correction: Heat Treated Aluminium that is used in Climbing 7000 series T6 is actually much more brittle than Steel (Opposite of what I said in the video). However I still wouldn't panic about Microfractures - based on how rare we see a broken carabiner or old carabiner breaking under its Ratings.

@Ric4562 2 жыл бұрын

2:18 I have exactly the same mammut To open a three-stroke carabiner with one hand, you need to place and press your little finger on the bottom of the carabiner, and your thumb, middle and ring fingers on the gate, which you can lift and turn

@laurensvolders9932 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, the heat treatment will induce internal stress in the aluminium which makes it more brittle. But it also makes it stronger (some types of tempered aluminium are stronger than mild steel). I would worry more about microfractures with aluminium because no aluminium can undergo an infinite amount of cycling loading as (stainless) steel can (if properly overdimensioned). Nevertheless you would probably not be able to do this many cyclic loads in your entire lifetime. Your advice to listen to the manufacturer is probably the best advice anyone could give.

@skyltdockan 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the update. I think you can and should pin your comment to the top!

@alexanderpafatnov1044 2 жыл бұрын

the microfractures myth is known to go back to titanium carabiners which could have such an issue. But they are completely off the table by now. Great video!

@notamouse5630 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, and 7000 series T6 will corrode too whereas 6061-T6 will not. Microfractures will eventually happen because aluminum does not have a load below which fatigue will not occurr. Any climbing carabiner will have a load rating of 2x the rope to prevent fatigue from happening in the average climber's lifetime. This all assumes normal load direction. Bending loads will cause a failure at a fraction of the capacity.

@zorkan111 2 жыл бұрын

I'm an engineer, so a little bit about microfractures - your friend tested it with static load - i.e. he pulled until it broke. There's something called dynamic load, which is basically a fancy term for when the load changes over time (for example, you load the carabiner, then unload, then load, then unload, which is what happens to every carabiner in normal use). When something goes through many load-unload cycles, it can break below it's rated load. I.e. if something is rated at 20 kN, and you load and unload it repeatedly at 15 kN, at one point it might break. That's called material fatigue. It is theorized that these load fluctuations expand the microfractures to the point of breaking. It especially affects aluminum. Steel can be designed for infinite life under dynamic load, but aluminum has no infinite fatigue limit. So, microfractures will not affect a carabiner in static load scenario, but it might affect the amount of load-unload cycles it can take before it breaks. But whether dropping the carabiner on the ground actually does anything to the microfractures or whether you can introduce enough load-unload cycles to the carabiner during normal use to break it (in machine design, engineers usually talk about hundreds of thousands of cycles), I don't know. But probably not.

@bungyportugal 2 жыл бұрын

We have always used two rotated steel binas with bungy jumping... does anyone recommend alloy instead and why?

@paulojacobsilva3018 2 жыл бұрын

That is true. Also Al alloys would be slightly more brittle than any steel. But a proper mechanical metallurgy study would have to be performed. I wonder if the manufacturer did it. Fatigue is definitely a bigger issue than micro-fractures. I'm a bit skeptical they occur on such low energy impacts. All can be tested.

@BalloonDraw 2 жыл бұрын

There's also the fact that steel can be hardened which makes it stronger but more brittle and rope wear on steel would happen much more slowly than on aluminum. So, there's a lot to consider when it comes to metals.

@user-gy4qh8qv2o Жыл бұрын

Almost 30 years ago, I excecuted a similar experiment as the above, after throwing aluminium alloy carabiners against a cement wall, for about 80 times. Then compared their breaking strength with same type ones, in unused condition. The result as I remember, was a reduction of strength around 15-17%.@@paulojacobsilva3018

@ermisak 10 ай бұрын

Wöhler curve for Al alloy says that when falling with 6 kN (i.e. very hard, unusual fall - approx. 315 MPa used), it survives 10^5=100 000 cycles. So you would have to hard fall hundred thousand times to fail the carabiner due to fatigue. I would say, that your spine breaks first

@Lorenzo-yw8qd 2 жыл бұрын

Dude, you deserve a lot of compliments for what you are doing with this channel. The way you explain is phenomenally clear and pleasant to follow, even if you aren't an English native speaker. Keep up with this amazing, educational work!

@lukasbormann4830 2 жыл бұрын

From a german : This was probaly one of the best pronouciations of a hard german word ive heard from an english speaker. Also i just learned that hms means something german😂

@EirikJeppesen 2 жыл бұрын

This answers every question I did and did not have about carabiners. Great amount of detail and lovely to see test results used as a source of information rather than some pass-me-down knowledge. Keep up the good work!

@JustusRudolfFilms 2 жыл бұрын

Quick tip for the screw gates from an industrial climber: do not screw lock it under load. The screw can easily get stuck (just like when you have sand in there). If you do get it stuck, put the carabiner under load and try unscrewing then. Usually does the trick.

@joshuacilliers2723 2 жыл бұрын

More of a concern with older carabiners and steel ones, no? I've always thought the ones that have some wiggle when locked up (click click when you test it) are less prone to seizing up like this. Though it's definitely still something to keep in mind.

@Krekkertje Жыл бұрын

@@joshuacilliers2723 exactly. In every screw gate i've ever seen the screwing bit is only ever threaded to the gate itself and doesn't really make contact with the nose.

@DaOndee 2 жыл бұрын

As alpine climber, I do want to carry a quick link on my harness. It comes in smaller and lighter shapes than the one shown. The advantages are the the weight, cost and lockability of the quick link compared to a normal carabiner. Also, the HMS (munter hitch) is of a much greater importance in the alpine environment. You save time and potentially the weight of the belay device (I do still bring the MegaJul or plate). Make sure to always keep the strands in parallel to avoid twisting of the rope due to the HMS.

@danielkaras5002 2 жыл бұрын

Well, this is one of the greatest KZfaq classes on Climbing, I have ever seen! Carry on with what you're doing, it's amazing! Looking forward to the next videos! Would love to see a complete class/playlist for complete beginners covering all the essentials all the way up to "I'm autonomously going to pack what I need and head on a sport climbing trip with my buddy" - to show to newbies in advance real life beginner courses.

@Niviral 2 жыл бұрын

I never climbed in my life, yet I spend last 2h watching you. Amazing, I want lose weigth and start climbing.

@wchunko 2 жыл бұрын

I have been climbing for a very long time (decades actually). And over that time I have come to be aware of most of this. But it is very nice to see it all in one place and very well explained. Thank you! Good job! I will forward it to one of my old friends. I think he'll appreciate it too.

@zacharysilverzweig7715 Жыл бұрын

Ben, I feel like this course is missing one really critical video: How do you actually belay?! What’s the ideal (or really just your) technique for top rope, sport and lead? Love the channel dude, keep it up.

@HardIsEasy Жыл бұрын

Hey, thank you so much for your support, I'm working on actual belaying videos, I have them filmed, but I want to launch few important videos about belay devices first and then will jump into action, so coming really soon

@jwr778 Жыл бұрын

Your giving the next generation of new climbers a huge help in understanding the real basics in gear use that is not taught in many classes ! Your clear and informative,thanks also to sponsor’s! Back in my day most of this was information was not talked about , just trial and error! Thanks for your time I don’t climb anymore but I do take the grandkids to the climbing gym so they can explore a great activity I in joyed!

@runepetersen516 2 жыл бұрын

This is great, thank you so much. Being a new top-rope climber, edging towards lead climbing, it is extremely nice to know what you can expect and how you can trust the equipment, which is half the battle for me. :-)

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Slow and steady is the best - also Climbing with more experienced people and or take a course - helps a lot

@bechelliz 2 жыл бұрын

Great content. Very thorough indeed. I'd just point out that hot forging (@ 2:20 ~ ) isn't just about giving shape to a piece of metal, more important than shaping is that forging produces a very refined microstructure which contributes very much to attain those UIAA mechanical properties with minimal cross section. E.g. a machined (nobody actually does this ok, just for the sake of the argument) carabiner with the same alloy and exact same dimensions should fail at much lower levels than the forged one.

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Well without hot forging you would have to have heavier carabiner to be able to sell them for climbing... ;)

@pavlodeshko 2 жыл бұрын

one carabiner related detail you forgot to mention - always clip your screwgate with gate facing down, esp when its left unattended(ie when building your anchor or for top-rope masterpoint) so when jiggled it closes itself under gravity, not opens. It really works - even if you forget to close the gate it will screw itself tight after some time

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

It's also easier to clip the rope / sling to upside down carabiner ;)

@dk2428 2 жыл бұрын

I needed this video in the 80's :-) Just wanted to say this series is amazing, the best content on the web. Educational, fun to watch, great content,...everyone who's considering taking up climbing - and some 'belayers' here at the local gym - should watch your channel!

@joji_okami 2 жыл бұрын

man this is exactly what I was looking for. thanks so much for this series. can't wait for the next episodes. will definitely donate to you in some way.

@Rycamcam 2 жыл бұрын

Hey guys, just wanted to add a note about microfractures. The way I understood it from the materials science & metallurgy classes from my mechanical engineering program, is that once a microfracture is present, it grows under time as a consequence of experiencing fatigue. Presumably, the engineers working for these rock climbing companies are responsible for fatigue testing these carabiners, and have determined that you should retire your carabiners after dropping them on solid surfaces as a result of their fatigue testing. Basically the more times you load the carabiners after a microfracture is present (e.g. from taking lead falls), the more the microfracture grows. This is why those carabiners that his friend Rian tested didn't show abnormal signs of failure immediately after his drop tests. However, given a half year to a year of use, then he would probably see failure from testing those same carabiners at lower levels of loading. It could take one month, one year, or one decade, but you can rest assured that a dropped carabiner (with a microfracture) will fail at much lower load levels that an intact carabiner. TL DR: It's safer to retire your carabiners after dropping them because of potential microfractures that may be present. The dropped carabiners won't fail immediately after, but they'll assuredly fail at lower load levels in the distant future. Stay safe guys

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing, super interesting... What loads do you think are required to grow microcracture? We rarely load carabiners anywhere close to what might stress them to much.... Do you know any testing done to demonstrate your theory?

@Rycamcam 2 жыл бұрын

@@HardIsEasy You're welcome! I don't know of any fatigue testing data on these carabiners-- I wish the climbing companies would make some of those readily available to the public. They'd be interesting to review. I would wager a guess that a microfracture would grow at loads roughly a 1/3 of the material's ultimate tensile strength. As far as I know, the engineers for these climbing companies are required to run fatigue tests with cyclic loading at a much lower strength than the material's tensile strength to simulate lead falls. I'd suppose they test at a big simulated load fall of around 4 kN, but they'd also test a bit higher to account for a factor of safety. They'd run the cyclic loading on both the minor and major axes of the carabiners. I'm guessing they determined that carabiners with microfractures should be retired based on the strength rating of the biner's minor axis, but that's just a guess. I theory, it wouldn't be safe to use dropped carabiners for very long if you suspect they have experienced heavy impact. Especially if you throw them into the granite on top of Yosemite :-). The bigger the microfractures present, the more vulnerable the carabiner. Btw, I love your videos! Thank you for putting in so much love and care into them. I've learn a lot in each episode! And the Fear of Falling episodes are super inspiring and relatable. Made a humble student donation to show my support. Keep up the excellent work!

@Rycamcam 2 жыл бұрын

@@HardIsEasy Also, I reviewed my metallurgy textbook's sections about environmental stresses that also cause crack propagation, like from corrosion (stress corrosion cracking) as mentioned in your videos. Like you said, if the carabiners get salty water on them, then you should wash them off-- because corrosion will cause the microfractures to propagate from the tips of the microfractures. In addition, you should also wash the carabiners off if they ever get dirty or gunky outside because of additional chemical reactions that might occur from the different elements present in the gunk and aluminum alloy, especially if you're climbing when it's hot outside. These are super careful precautions, but I guess it only takes 1 failed carabiner to ruin your climbing day/life. ;-)

@livi39 2 жыл бұрын

Holy wow, this is fantastic! Can't wait for the rest of the series. The balance between entertainment, storytelling, and technical information is top notch. Kudos, Ben

@danielwhettam1564 2 жыл бұрын

Incredible series, not been able to find this level of detail all in the same place anywhere else!

@frisbeedan8905 2 жыл бұрын

This course is awesome. I consider myself a relatively experienced climber, but these videos go into tons of detail and I find myself learning tons! So thanks for the great content and information!

@schmushenmush 2 жыл бұрын

So much information packed in here with straightforward explanations and demonstrations. Answering the "why" of lots of these features will allow people to make better decisions for themselves in the future. Thanks so much.

@brentonclark2103 Ай бұрын

Great video… after 10 years of doing industrial rope access and now beginning my journey into climbing, I learnt something new about krabs.

@Yarrownew9759 2 жыл бұрын

DMM rhino carabiner is by far my favorite for preventing cross loading. Just has a little horn to prevent a gri gri from slipping around but doesn’t involve messing with the little spring clip mechanisms. Quick, effective, and sturdy!

@Seth99curtin Жыл бұрын

Thanks for making all these masterclasses, I’ve just been getting into sport climbing more and after watching a lot of your videos I feel like I have the knowledge to be much more aware of mine and others safety out on the crag!

@FunnySimbaOne 2 жыл бұрын

Looking forward to watch next episodes!! Great work!

@danahollister4084 2 жыл бұрын

I have been climbing for 50 years and this is some of the best information I have ever seen. Thank you. Well done!

@thomasbannelier4625 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for this channel. This is just 10 times clearer than any other climbing video I've seen or book I've read!

@zanestathakis30 2 жыл бұрын

This video was super good. Really enjoyed getting to know the different reasons for the carabiner shapes in more depth. Thanks for the quality content!

@MO_Climbing_Stuff 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for this series! Very useful and I am sure you will save a couple of lives by this.

@epicismcawesome 2 жыл бұрын

Great content as always! I think these videos are amazing for a lot of climbers of varying experience and I always direct people I have done climbing courses for to your videos for tons of extra but useful info.

@matteomusso9351 2 жыл бұрын

I love this type of videos, very well explained and much detailed. Good job, Ben, can't wait for next informations and experiments!

@jdryak 2 жыл бұрын

Absolute best instructional and informational video on the subject anywhere! Thanks for all your effort and expertise!

@christkind3067 2 жыл бұрын

This series is gonna be awesome. As always: Really nice produced! Im looking forward to the next episode!

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, next episode on Wed ;)

@hopelesswanderer6891 2 жыл бұрын

Love these videos! Such good information and very well explained. Thanks for making these and helping spread the knowledge man!

@cl91000 2 жыл бұрын

Wow I just started this series and I'm already obsessed! Learning so much.

@mrphraner 2 жыл бұрын

This is really good. So many questions answered.. So many things i would never think of.. Ill start the basic climbing course in September where ill probably learn all of this, but until that i feel i can climb safer after this video

@Flagen579 2 жыл бұрын

Great production value. Exactly as much as is needed. Love it

@FT4Freedom 2 жыл бұрын

Dude. You seem totally chill and cool. Plus caring about the people.

@kedpik 2 жыл бұрын

Very clear and complete ! Thank for that, I already wait the other videos with excitement

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

coming in few days

@shannkolsen 2 жыл бұрын

This was so great! Thank you so much for all the work you put into making this video. Looking forward to future videos!

@zaiohellgren9266 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for these super awesome videos! Scared me a bit when i saw the bad examples in the beginning and realise how grateful i am of this free education.

@outdoorandrade6229 4 ай бұрын

Took a break from climbing and decided to go through basics again. Glad I did, as I'm learning things I wasn't fully aware of. Thank you for making this video series! Hopefully, everyone can set their egos down, continue learning, and climb safer.

@En3ki 2 жыл бұрын

Yo man, u really helped me to work more safely, I rig motors for luminar/sound/video structure for events n stuff like this , where the standard are high in security already but all your little tips aid me to be a guy that my team tend to lean on cause I always have your decisive information to ensure safer ways to make our day or just have a topic to discuss on pause n that is why I love your Chanel n all usefull info that It offers :)

@korbendallas1210 2 жыл бұрын

I really appreciate your efforts to make such great and informative videos. It's always a pleasure to donate to such content maker. Thank you!

@tainopr4356 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for this video. Straight forward, very informative & fun to watch. I will definitely share it with my climbing community, and my peers at work.

@furiousmat 2 жыл бұрын

amazing content man. I've been climbing for a few years and I find the whole gear environment so hard to navigate. It's so difficult to find people who know what they're talking about and it often feels like everyone has a different take on everything. As I often say, there seems to be as many theory about what's the right gear or belaying techniques to use as there are rock climbers. This video series seems to be very well done and I get a feeling that you've got an engineering background. You explain the "why" behind stuff and that makes stuff so much easier to remember and make sense of.

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

The fact is that there are many right ways to do things in climbing and lots of arguments between experts... which sometimes lead to safer solutions, but sometimes also ego clashes. What I wish that people understand the basics enough to be able to make safety judgments them selves

@user-em5gk9ub1v Жыл бұрын

Great, comprehensive video! Thank you for your effort to demystify the range of carabiner types. I'll be sharing this course/channel with my climbing partners.

@TJP13088 Жыл бұрын

This is gold! Thank you for all the work that went into these videos!

@swaspc7618 2 жыл бұрын

You are a great communicator! Your channel is undoubtedly one of the best in its field.

@MsCharzilla 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this video series! This video was super informative. I'll be watching every episode that comes out! (:

@Glenners Жыл бұрын

Thanks for all these videos dude. Really helping me demystify everything that goes into rope climbing! I started bouldering half a year ago but really want to get outside and climb high stuff with some cool views!

@yushy5816 2 жыл бұрын

amazingly thorough and helpful. this is a great primer for all climbers.

@Needafollower 2 жыл бұрын

Can’t think you enough for these videos man. Really educational for a newbie

@definitelynotjohn2166 2 жыл бұрын

You’re making some really fantastic videos and I appreciate so much what you’re doing. Keep up the great work!

@petervilla5221 Жыл бұрын

FASCINATING. I have no idea how I ended up here, but I'm glad I did.

@alexh117 2 жыл бұрын

Such a great video. Thanks for starting this series!

@mateosuarezpenafiel2591 2 жыл бұрын

Love you're videos. Are very useful to have someone who can explain how climbing works

@ITMikeP 2 жыл бұрын

Great video! So excited for more!

@kavemanthewoodbutcher Жыл бұрын

A year after posting, and with 17 years of trusting my life to these things, I learned a lot. Thank you.

@rakeshdhiman1307 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent and highly technical. You are helping a lots of people like me through these video!

@Jerbins 2 жыл бұрын

I love this series. thank you for putting all this together

@tonipashova8418 2 жыл бұрын

Great video, looking forward to the rest of the series. Thank you for producing such quality content, will be happy to support you

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Thank You so much

@tracewell 2 жыл бұрын

This is really well done. Thank you for this outstanding course. I will be using it to deepen my children's understanding of climbing safely.

@MrCyberspion 11 ай бұрын

Great educational content. I really like how calm an collected you present all the information.

@lukaswieg4845 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Ben, absolutely great video. I really enjoyed every single second! Your content is amazing. But I've got one single nitpicky point: I think steel ist less brittle than aluminium. In Rian videos on how not to highline his steel carabiners are bending while the aluminium ones are snapping. Therefore the steel in carabiners must ne less brittle. Only hardened steel like on knifes ist brittle. Anyway fantastic video. I am really looking forward to your upcoming content :)

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Interesting... I thought this panic for micro fractures came from old school steel carabiner times.... Thanks for nitpicking - That's how we learn ;)

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

after more research turns out that heat treated Aluminium used in Climbing T6/T7 is indeed much more brittle than Steel. However I still wouldn't panic about Microfractures - based on how rare we see a broken carabiner or old carabiner breaking under its Ratings.

@ZeroChaos87 2 жыл бұрын

@@HardIsEasy this is a sign of a real expert. knows his stuff but is willing to research and adjust. big thumbs up and keep it going.

@joleylight300 Жыл бұрын

Been going through and freshening up on your master classes. Thank you again!

@johnliungman1333 2 жыл бұрын

Great job as always. Solid info and a professional presentation. Keep it up!

@ronaldmoody4766 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for making these videos! I’ve climbed off and on for many years. As a result, I’ve taken a number of indoor and outdoor beginner’s classes. Though I’ve quite enjoyed climbing, I’ve not made time to progress past the top roping stage. Your videos are motivating me to start again and develop Sport climbing skills.

@user-gy4qh8qv2o Жыл бұрын

Give it a try, with suitable trained company.

@shamharoth 2 жыл бұрын

I've enjoyed a lot of your other videos, but this is a really excellent tutorial series! I've just subscribed to the Patreon to support it. Keep up the great work!

@HardIsEasy 2 жыл бұрын

Ahh thank you for supporting - super helpful!

@xavierx93 2 жыл бұрын

Definitely earned my subscription. This is such a well made and informative video. Thank you for your efforts, it really helps new climbers like me!!

@maximebarber3780 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for starting this series. KZfaq needs more climbing safety videos!

@bsuarez3455 2 жыл бұрын

The first episode of the series got me through my belay class like a boss good looks 💪🏾

@RC-gl1mi 3 ай бұрын

Great Video, I have not used my climbing gear since the early 1980's , starting some basic low level stuff. Interesting , all of my old gear has hooks on the carabiners, so I am upgrading everything as needed, new ropes and new carabiners. and a few other goodies. L.E.O. S Tactics have changed a great deal. Your information is outstanding ,Thank You. Please keep up the good work ! ! Two bad falls, has MADE me rethink everything from a safety stand point. Thank You Again.

@deprouty 2 ай бұрын

Great video, been climbing for 35 years and still learning!

@adrianofranca3182 9 ай бұрын

This is the best video ever. Many thanks to share your knowledge. A warm hug from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

@smuir6104 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for doing these videos! I really enjoyed the learning to fall series.

@HurricaneHunter96 2 жыл бұрын

Incredibly helpful video! And that goes for all of yours!

@MariaSlijper Жыл бұрын

I have no climbing friends yet (started my beginners course last week) but I sure will be recommending your channel whenever I can! This is gold!! 😀 especially when you are new to the sport and you have to go and buy your own gear and remember all the names of techniques and knots and devices and you are massively overwhelmed 🤣 I'm getting addicted already.. whoops 🤭

@1985goldie Жыл бұрын

This was a brilliant video. I’ve only recently started climbing and it was super useful. You explain things really well! Subscribed!

@svendkaffke5862 2 жыл бұрын

This was way more educational than I expected. Good Video!

@souad7643 2 жыл бұрын

One of the best Chanel to educate basics about climbing , thanks .

@ferdinoh3704 2 жыл бұрын

You sir, answered litterally every question I had about carabiners. During the video a some point I thought about question saying myself : "this videos is very useful, but I don't know if he will talk aboit this and that..." And, well, you did!!! I subscribe right away. Very nice job. Wish you the best. Cheers from France.

@kissmate89 2 жыл бұрын

Amazingly detailed video and it answered all my questions and more. :D Thank you

@medasurkeviciute8364 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for this series! Really enjoyed the video 👏💪

@lykaon666 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the great video 😀... The triload thing where the carabiner breaks earlier on the wide side is, in my opinion, based on the much higher leverage which is created

@deweytarver8985 Жыл бұрын

Loving your videos, have learned A LOT👍. Awesome series!

@Harka666 2 жыл бұрын

Little correction: the forging process is done not because of the shape or design you want to achieve (the same shape you could achieve also with casting, for example), but in order to improve the microstructure of the metal, the grain flow and as a result to increase the strength and fatigue resistance of the component.

@emblaize88 2 жыл бұрын

Very nicely done. Thorough and competent.

@msbarbridge 2 жыл бұрын

wow, your channel is great! so clear and fun to watch

@gyrfalco3995 2 жыл бұрын

Incredible quality video and really clear explanations. Keep up the great work. I would just mention that anyone who wishes to climb should still take a proper course in situ.

@twopoke 2 жыл бұрын

Really good vid. Loads of info very easy to understand. Thanks

@djdrogs Жыл бұрын

Great video with clear and useful information. Thanks!

@sharg0 2 жыл бұрын

A couple of notes on aluminium and corrosion. Pure aluminium do corrode, it is not due to alloy materials - those can both improve and compromise corrosion resistance. The reason for aluminium to be considered corrosion resistant is that in air aluminium forms an oxide that has some very good features: It inhabits further corrosion, forms a sealing layer and is transparent! IF however that layer (microscopic thin) gets damage and there is an environment* that speeds up corrosion we get another type of oxide, a white powder that lacks the beneficial effects of the first type. (* Like saltwater and air mixture.) Another common cause for nasty oxidation problems are different metals! As an example if you store aluminium and plain steel mixed the aluminium will oxide "to protect" the steel. The more different metals are mixed the higher the risk is (not within an alloy but between different parts). So if you get that dreaded white powder* on your gear make a careful inspection or discard it as compromised. (* As in aluminium oxide, not chalk). Also when talking metals and strength several different types are needed, it's not just stronger/weaker. Long story short here's the different types: Elastic deformation (springy) / Plastic deformation (shape changed) / Break combined with Hardness / Tensile strength / Impact resistance Conclusion, an alloy might be good in one situation but not the other... There are four ways to change the properties of alloys: It's composition, hot working, cold working and heat treatment. Addition: Microcracks - the major risk for these in this application is due to work hardening due to repeated elastic deformation (or fewer plastic with return correction aka bending back). So after many very hard falls on the same carabinier it might be time for retirement. But not for a bunch of drops.