I prefer wire gates and I feel the rope is less slippery and easier to clip, because the contact point between the rope and the wire gate is flat when clipping. The bar gate has round contact, so the rope slides a little more easily.

I even prefer wire ones because they're much softer/easier to open them to put the rope

Terrifying tragedy. And it seems I have one more phobia now. Never even thounth that someone can assembly quickdraws this way. Going to check my new quickdraws before using them.

@@cyberfunk9494 Coincidentally I was telling someone the story of Tito's accident just last night. It was the mother of one of the other children in the group that had assembled the draws incorrectly. However that didn't stop 5 people from being charged with manslaughter including the owner of the gear store that sold the draws/components. I believe only one of the instructors was found guilty and received a 2 year prison sentence.

@@banalestorchid5814 Certainly, each instructor should control all the processes concerning safety. Especially when kids are involved. Some things that are obvious for adult people are not so clear for children.

@@cyberfunk9494 That's a fair point but is an instructor expected to be responsible for other people's equipment? I would imagine it would depend on the jurisdiction and what the role of the instructor is. Are they being paid or volunteering? Are they working as a "guide" or just assisting the parents? I have volunteered with school groups many times and the thought that I could face a manslaughter charge because someone else's equipment failed is terrifying. I don't think it would be unreasonable for ANYONE (instructor or otherwise) to assume QDs are properly made. I have never heard of a similar thing happening in my 15 years of working in the climbing business. Perhaps the court determined that the instructor knew the mother had "made" the QDs and he was at fault for not checking them given she was clearly not an experienced climber? Apparently the person in the gear store that sold the QDs and the guy that owned the company that made the rubber pieces were also put on trial but acquitted. How does that make any sense? You sell climbing gear and someone get hurt and they come for you? That would be like getting in a car crash and blaming the dealership.... It makes no sense to me unless it's the lawyers trying to make as much money as possible. I suppose the more people that can be implicated the more work for them and the greater their fees.

@@banalestorchid5814 a court’s decisions will make a lot more sense if you had been in court to hear all of the evidence and legal argument(s).

That's the whole idea of using multiple quickdraws isn't it were 1 may get nicks & scratches due to natural wear & tear then the others will be there as backup in case of failure by the damaged carabiner I know it's a scary situation but these things really do give you the confidence you need to achieve your goals

​@@martinthrone7012 You are missing my point. Yes, having multiple quickdraws in case one fails can be helpful (though not in all situations, such as when a single failure will cause a ground fall). What I'm talking about is when the bolt-side carabiner of a quickdraw gets knicks, scratches, and abrasions when them on bolts during sport climbing, especially when taking falls. This causes damage in the form of small micro edges and small points. Then, if you switch a carabiner with that kind of a damage to the rope side of a quickdraw, severe damage to the rope going through it can happen extremely quickly, possibly even on the first fall. To be clear, always use a carabiner for the rope side of quickdraws that does not have damage from use on bolts or similar gear to best keep you safe and give you confidence in your gear during your climbing pursuits.

@@ryanv2913 NO I'm not missing your point at all you're not the only person who knows how to use quickdraws & how to look after & their maintenance & YES I'm well aware of the points you were making.......but in any case thanks for the info update 👍

​@@martinthrone7012nah you still didn't understand what they were saying cause backup quickdraws don't save you from a rope failing

@@ryanv2913 Wouldn't that be completely mitigated by making sure you only use the bent gate carabiner on the rope side and the straight gate carabiner on the bolt side?

^ That

I'm not sure I understand, if you want to extend your QuickDraw, you still need to be aware of the rope side versus the bolt side and there would never be an issue

@@Grethko when you extend a quickdraw with another one in the wrong way, you put the spit carabiner "inside" the rope carabiner. In this way, the rope carabiner is directly in contact with the metal of the spit carabiner, and this ruins the rope carabiner itself. I'm not english, I cannot explain better than this ':D

Was actually hoping to hear more about these in this video. Seems like it would of been the right next thing to add to your friction test wall

He demonstrated this in the previous video about slings/lanyards/etc though it would have been a nice touch to reference in this one as well.

This was mentioned clearly in the video

@@Grethko burrs or keepers on OPEN slings...?k x

Thank You! Cooking more of them already ;)

Great! Good luck with your new projects ;)

#metalonmetalismetal 🤘

Keeping your carabiners in tip top condition is 1 of the most basic fundamentals of climbing especially when you take into consideration that they're considered PPE (personal protective equipment) they're very literally capable of saving your life

Yep, I'm here just because of that: I'm a newbie and one of my experienced climbing mates explained to me some stuff about belaying, and told me to watch a video of this guy. I can easily recognize high quality content when I saw it, and now I'm watching all the videos of his channel. This kind of information is super valuable. I know it cannot substitutes a real class, but it raises some awareness on important stuff, and that's great. The ability this guy has in explaining these topics, with methodology and clearness, is just fantastic.

Next Wednesday 😉

Very impressive rate! And definitely hyped hahaha

Yea, I'll make separate episode about clipping, thanks ;)

CAMP Dyon wire-gate carabiners fix both this and the hooking issue. But they're rather pricey.

Me too, quality stuff & company with great values.

Haha sounds a bit crazy what you guys use there... :DDDD

Thanks, Have your wishes in my todo list ;)

Thanks for that! I have new batch of videos in the making :D hope you tried climbing already?!

Thanks, and yes it's on my todo list ;)

@@HardIsEasy Awesome! I've been looking at several videos to get a clear overview of the different techniques and which are the best/easiest/safest. But it can get a bit confusing? Sometimes it's also hard to see what people are doing exactly because it's filmed far away or the movement is quite fast. I love your clear explainations and this topic could really benefit from it.

Grabbing the quickdraw from above of it is dangerous, because you can fall and then it might happen what you said. Grabbing it from below it's probably unlikely to injure you. Climbing and life it self is always about risk management, sometimes taking a fall it's much more risky than grabbing on a quickdraw.

Not sure how grabbing the rope would solve the conundrum of needing to find a clipping stance. Slings are a known quantity, and grabbing a sling to clip your way up a route is a quite common practice in early attempts when you may be unfamiliar with the clipping stance or arriving to a stance far more tired than intended. Definitely get a wide and longer dogbone that tapers.

@@zacharylaschober I didn't mean grabbing the rope to find a clipping position. I was referring to a state when you're no longer able to hold on anything. In a desperate attempt right before falling people tend to grab anything in their reach that may prevent the fall. I wanted to say that if you use to grab the quickdraws all the time in case of potential fall, then at some point it may end up badly for you. If instead you used to grab the rope above the knot just for your mental comfort that is way safer. Additionally, attempting to quickly clip in while desperately fighting against the gravity and holding the quickdraw may (and often is) introduce additional slack in the system and the possibility of way longer airtime, which is usually more dangerous than a normal fall from where you are before the fall.

@@HardIsEasy IMO it depends in which direction the gate is facing. Grabing from below when the gate is facing your palm is as dangerous as grabbing from above. When you're half a second from the fall you're usually not thinking about the correct way of grabbing the quickdraw, but just reaching it. So better to not get used to such risky behaviour. I agree that sometimes it is safer to do that rather than take the fall. But that is very rare case on the sport routes I think.

that is not wrong but I want to add two things: 1) if the sling is thicker it is easier to grab and so you won't slip that easily. (it's harder to grab a slim sling, and even with more strength left you could slip easily) 2) In my experience those climbers projecting difficult overhanging routes don't grab the quickdraw in panic just to avoid a fall. They search for a position, take the quickdraw instead of a hold, clip the rope and sit into the rope to search for a solution. and in that case again, a bigger sling is more comfortable and safer for exactly that reason you pointed out. so I think it's good to mention that risk - because you shouldn't grab the quickdraw in panic to avoid the fall. But on the other hand, there is a good use for these quickdraws. :)

Dėkui! ;)

Thanks for supporting! Next video on Wednesday ;)

Thanks for sharing, I'll look it up, it surprises me that a lead fall would generate forces enough to break gate open carabiner... Also curious how investigation can say what was the reason of the break...? Seems like a wild guess if you don't have it filmed...

Thanks Matyáš!

I too click like, then I watch

Yes, that's alpine draw used in Traditional / Alpine scenarios. Not ideal for Sport Climbing tho... ;)