How I built a solid well-made concrete bag culvert entrance using 650 50lb bags, 1/2 rebar, threaded rod, 8oz fabric, mortar. Due to backlogged contractors, I decided to do this myself. End of video shows the drive nearly washing out. The next heavy rain I will update you with a video. Thank you for watching! :)
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Improvements & Methods - Concrete Bag | Culvert Retaining Wall
• Improvements & Methods...
Basalt Rebar, Dip Galvanized Hardware, Mortared Seams, Color, Sealer. (Recommended by Viewers.) Thank you!
650 Bags at $1.83 a bag ($1,190 + Taxes & Rebar)(Currently $3.04/bag QTY 70 at Lowe's.)
(This was with discounts.) - Buy Quikrete High Strength at Lowe's by the pallet to save cost. (Prices will vary.) This was less cost than making forms and doing a concrete pour. They do make a version for this purpose called Rip Rap. See below. **
Tip: I used the lines on the bag, to setback the upper bags and keep courses running even. Sight each course from side and top, to form the shape you desire. Also, loosen up each bag by placing the long ends on a flat surface to move the concrete to the front edge of the bag without the opening. Mix the bag if you feel stone. Then flatten the bag, pick it up and place it in position. The opening of the bag always goes to the back so you end up with a more smooth uniform look. Do one row, then adjust, then pack with a flat block of stone.
Important: I saturated the concrete bags well with plenty of water over night or more. Keep the bags damp for as long as possible to promote the curing process. Build small sections leaving the rebar exposed to bridge the next set of rebar and cover with plastic to protect from rain. Finally, lightly soak bags as many days as possible. Make sure you are using paper bags.
Tip: I pressure washed the paper away on a low setting. Pack any voids with concrete using a small piece of rebar.
Tip: I coated the lower sections with concrete in a near liquid form. Wash concrete and water into any cracks or voids on bag surfaces. Wipe excess with a wet cloth.
Tip: I mortared any voids and the top to prevent water penetration. Pack concrete in the voids with the end of a stick of rebar. Color and seal to provide good cover for the rebar.
Tip: Tape the top bags with packing tape to prevent bag stretching and cracks.
Tip: I checked with utility providers to have all underground cables and pipes marked before installing this culvert and wing wall. - Have fun. :)
After One Year - How is it holding?
• One Year Later | Concr...
Concrete Bag Retaining Wall | How I Built
• Concrete Bag Retaining...
Culvert & French Drain Performing As Needed
• Culvert & French Drain...
French Drain 130' | Deep 4' Subsurface | River Rock
• French Drain 130' x 4'...
What Is Concrete - See Testing- Actually Dams Use Compressed Rolled Concrete
• What is Concrete?
This Culvert Model Demonstrates Types Of Entrances***
Our entrance was near capacity and the exit was about 70 percent flow.
• What Is a Culvert?
** Quikrete Rip Rap - Commercial grade blend of Portland cement and specially graded sand, packaged in a Fiber Reinforced, Biodegradable Bag for erosion control applications.
www.quikrete.com/productlines...
My Website Where I Will Post More Details
www.stevenaddis.com
Note: A couple of YT comments talked about rebar and "cover" protection and rust prevention . If this is of concern, there is Basalt and Fiberglas rebar. Fiberglass may fracture with a hammer. I tried to have three inches of cover, setting the rebar back from the face. The joints are mortared and sealed. This may not be the best method and easiest method to build a wing wall compared to formed. It was less expensive and it has held up perfectly for ten months showing no signs of degradation and is working for my particular stream conditions. Thank you.
Disclaimer: Please note: I am not giving engineering or construction advice since each and every site and location is different. This is just a demonstration of what I did and what worked for my location and my particular project. Please seek advice from a contractor and engineer to protect your time and investment in materials. I talked with Tom the engineer who has 50+ years of construction experience before I proceeded. All documentation and videos on this website are for informational purposes only. I am not liable for any use or misuse of this information by any person and any claims of any kind such as loss or injury. Warning: The tools and equipment presented in this video can be dangerous. Use all necessary safety protections at all times.
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