Thank you! The channel is only a month old but I'm working hard to build it up, thanks for following!

It's very encouraging hearing this from such a big channel. Thank you!

@@MattsHobbyHour The "Trov" seal of approval... can't get any better praise.

Thanks you! Will have plenty more to come. And some advanced stuff in the future as well.

@@MattsHobbyHour You could just make videos at this level and you're gonna do great. You got my sub.

Thank you! I'll have some more Kraken videos posted over the next few weeks.

Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. Happy painting!

Thanks for watching! I'm glad it was helpful. Good luck with your Kraken army!

Thank you!

Thank you for the kind words! I'll keep em coming. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Will have a few more videos of the rest of the set over the coming weeks. All Kraken!

Thank you!

Thanks! I do like my cartoony 2nd ed stuff too ;)

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks Ivan! Glad it's helpful. Been a while. Hope life is going well for you!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you! You'll see a lot more from me. I appreciate the kind words and encouragement

Thank you!

Thanks Ian!

Thank you Brother Mundo!

Thanks HTM!

Thank you!

Thanks! I'm glad you found this helpful. Stay tuned I'll be posting some tutorials for the other tyranids in the set soon! Happy painting

@MattsHobbyHour yes cant wait! as a space marine'r' moving onto nids has been daunting but I've found the kraken scheme I want now and can start lol...Great painting you have a bright future on KZfaq ahead of you no doubt!

Thanks! I'll be posting something new each Wednesday. And some extra stuff here and there too.

Thank you so much! Welcome to the channel

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks Kieth! Yep you should get it! I'm also kitbashing the marines for a video too. Lots of opportunities in that set.

Thanks! Good luck and happy painting

Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful. This channel is brand new, I'm surprised it's coming up on Google already. Very cool

If you search contrast screamer killer and go to videos it's the 12th one down, now to hunt down a salamanders scheme for the space marines

Very cool info. Thanks so much for sharing and for following!

Spiracles!

Thank you!

Thank you, hope that's the case! ;)

Thank you!

very cool, thanks for letting me know!

Thanks for watching them all! I think you'd have great results with either. If you use mechanicus grey first, you will get some deeper shading on the model compared to using just wraithbone. If you have a couple spare gaunts, maybe try out both priming methods and see which one you like more. Good luck!

@@MattsHobbyHour thanks alot I'll give it a go keep up the great content! 🙏

Thanks for the tip! I'm still very new to this whole process. I'm recording on a Nikon D5200 which is supposed to be able to record in 1080p... thought that's what I'm recording in but I'll have to double check. Thanks again!

Hey Matt! I did a little research on your camera and I can see that the manual shows you can record in 1920x1080 but only max 30 fps in progressive. Personally I think 30 is fine for painting videos since it’s not an action movie. Alternatively you can record in 1280x720 at 60p but you’d lose your picture quality. Hope this helps!

@@spencersmith2102 thanks! I really appreciate the insight. Lots for me to learn. If this venture catches on, which it seems to be doing, I'll probably invest in a 4k camera. Then I'll have less to worry about!

Thank you!

Thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful. I used a few different colors, same recipe as the mouth tentacles on the Psychophage model here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/echho82ep7uqm5s.html

@@MattsHobbyHour thank you

I dont water down that color at all.

great idea, I'll make sure to include basing in the next Tyranid video. Thanks!

zandri dust and wraithbone are close enough where I don't think it would make too much of a difference. I'd just use only wraithbone in that case. And you're right about it being more effective on a larger model. No worries on asking a few questions, I don't remember your other questions so I'll go reply to those comments now. Good luck!

@@MattsHobbyHour I think there will be more contrast between the zandri and the warithbone than the grey and wraithbone... unless the idea is to have a warm and cold tone to start with? I will try the zandri/wraithbone zenithal anyway, just to se how it comes out. I bought the bone white and off white Vallejo which are my first from the new bottles (I hear they have improved the formula of game paints, too) and got Magos Purple as well, so all set. I think I will also mix a bottle of the chitin colour, like you suggested. was it 4:1 mix of red to black? I'll likely just do a Gant as a tester, so will likely mostly be layering the bone colours on, rather than dry brushing. They are small enough to where I can just practice my manual, volumetric highlights on those guys. I need to learn this for glazing, also. I'm thinking about painting some Orks to learn to glaze, as they have the muscles which look perfect for learning this style of painting. all the shapes to learn for volumetric highlights, and then the glazing of them together. Maybe I can do this with a big monster as well from my Nids. I have a bunch of older ones, and the Leviathan set. Something about doing the green skin is alluring though. it looks like a fun and interesting way to learn some techniques (also adding warm flesh tones as accents around the face, palms and scar tissue and stuff. lots of techniques to learn on Orks)

@@D00M3R_MAVS good luck! Yes its approximately a 4:1 mix. The black templar is a strong color so add it in very small amounts at a time. Mix the paint and check the color before adding more black to the mix.

@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks.

I didn't thin the contrast paints at all. Straight from the pot and on to my palette. The trick with contrast paint is to watch out for pooling and apply a thin layer. Make sure not to flood the model with it. It's all about controlling how much paint is on the brush and model. The brushes I use are in the description, they are Rosemary and Co series 99 red sable. Most of the contrast work was done with a number 2, and detail done with a number 1.

@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks, I'll have to get some of those. been meaning to get from those guys, but the unconventional sizing confused me a bit.

@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. I found thinning the Skeleton horde worked better for me, as it didn't stain the raised are too much. I was likely not using a properly controlled amount of paint though. I did like the softer effect with the 1:1 mix though, and then to come in with some snakebite leather to add some darker bits in shadows, and some nazdreg yellow on some of the fleshier parts (although in your recipe it is the gryph-hound orange, so I'll be trying that. I am essentially going to be combining what I have learned from the trovarion Gants video and this one, with the base design from Trovarions Black Templar video) So they will have your carapace colours with turquoise guns. Claws are the same on both schemes. I'm just not sure to go with the purple or the turquoise tongue yet, will have to see how it goes. The base design is the one he did with white and turquoise liquid pigments, to look like a frozen planet. I'm using Trovarions design as jump off point for my own frozen planet bases. They look very different to other snow bases, and so much better IMO. (I have specific tufts and stuff for them, and also have this frost effect paint to use on some surfaces) The GS world snow is the nicest looking snow FX I've seen, as it really looks like snow that has sat there a while, not fresh powder like all the other stuff is. I still have some fresh powder snow though, as this can be added, sparsely on surfaces to just add another layer. On my bigger creatures I'm going to do some ice made from resin with stuff trapped under them, seen some amazing examples of this as well. I've never done resin before though, so it's an entirely new thing to learn. I knew I wanted to do this kind of base, so specifically have been wanting a Nid scheme to o well on that base. I was going to go with more Traditional Kraken, but I think the deeper red and the orange are going to look sick with the white and turquoise base (then also Turquoise as the spot colour on the minis as well) I'm very excited to get something painted up, will probably knock up a tester this weekend with a Gant. Is there any way I can show you it when it's done? PS: sorry for another long reply. It's a subject I'm passionate about though, and it's rare I crack a scheme so early on. I mean it could go wrong yet, but in my mind I can see it and it works. The colours should really work together. I am slightly worried about white next to bone, maybe they're be too similar, but then you want some similarity and some contrast, right? Hopefully the combination of colours will be just right.

@@D00M3R_MAVS sounds like a cool project, and it's great that you are personalizing your color scheme. I'd love to see what you do; if you have an Instagram account you can send me a DM there. Link is on my channel page. Good luck!

@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. I have an account but I don't really use it right now. I can upload some pics when I finish something though. I'll sort out the link.

That's a great idea! I'll add brush care to the queue. Thanks for watching!

Could be a few reasons why its drying so fast. If the room is hot, dry, or if a fan is running that might be the cause. Never dip a bone dry brush into paint when you start; always make sure to wet it first and then wipe off the excess on a paper towel, that way the brush is damp before you grab paint with it. Try to never let the paint get more than halfway up the hair. Also, make sure to rinse your brush periodically. Good luck!

@MattsHobbyHour thank you man! A lot of my paint is more than a few years old, so I wonder if that is contributing to the issues. Regardless, I look forward to seeing you cover the subject :)

I didn't dilute the Magos Purple at all. There is a slight amount that does get diluted on the model after rinsing the brush and feathering the edge. But I didn't add any medium or water to the mix on my palette. It was just straight up paint. I'd stick with Magos Purple, it's very transparent and great for blending. Nazdreg Yellow is really strong and it will stain and be difficult to blend. Good luck!

@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. I ordered some tonight. I got the bone colour and the off white from Vallejo as well.

@@MattsHobbyHour when you were feathering the magos purple, it looks like you were pulling towards the purple from the area outside first. is this correct, or did my eyes read it incorrectly? I know contrast works differently and you usually have to pull the brush in the direction you want to be darkest/have the pigment collect. I was wondering if this is why you were brushing towards the purple rather than away from it to start with? I have done some feathering before on horns and stuff for, but with thinned down paint. I am very new to using contrast paints, so need to take in all I can. I find they are very different to other paints and require a different way of painting. I usually find if I think the contrast down a bit, I have an easier time with it (also if there is some plastic detail for the pigment to attack to) but if it's a flatter area, I have a much harder time with the paint. I guess when it comes to these areas, we just have to touch them up with the standard paints, after wards? They very much seem like an ink/wash combo, where as people used the citadel shade paints as washes, they really were not for that and are better for actually using to add shadow. I think if you thin out the contrast, it behaves more like a wash should (IMO at least) anyway, hope you see this reply as it's late. I have lots to learn with contrast paint, so hope you do more videos in this style. I'd definitely like to see more Tyranids done in this style, maybe see you tackling one of the older sculpts (as they paint very differently IMO. The newer minis are designed with contrast paint in mind) If I have issues doing the method on the older, big creatures though, I can easy find a deep red and shade it down with black glaze. I think the colour scheme will be easy enough to replicate with different styles of paints. That's the dream really. Having a speed method that can be replicated with other paints for different minis in the range. Also I will get an air brush soon, so this adds a whole other dimension as well. You can lay down a lot of base colours, and then only have to glaze the in-betweens pretty much. (I'm also just learning to glaze though) Have you tried NMM before? I would like to try this as well, but this comes under glazing as well I think.

@@D00M3R_MAVS sometimes I'll start the feathering from the dry side, sometimes from the wet side. It really shouldn't make too much of a difference, because in the end I'm making so many brush strokes in different directions. In a way it's an intuitive process that's easy to show on film but difficult to explain. I'm varying the pressure I'm using on the brush and the direction of the stroke depending on how the paint flows on an irregular surface. The best advice i can give you is paint a bunch of models. Good luck!

@@MattsHobbyHour Thanks. Yeah I get you. It's just one of those things you have to figure out. I should probably practice the tech on a sprue or something.

U know it brother

Great video man, loved the explanations on techniques. Your stuff still as pretty as always.

@@ericheideman7512 thanks Eric. I appreciate it

Thanks! That is a good point. I'll try trimming down the videos a bit.

Thanks for watching! It's a subtle, brighter zenithal. Since I didnt start with black spray, and the grey/wraithbone are close in value, it's not as obvious. But I can assure you it is darker on the underside and lighter on the top. Happy painting!