To avoid the mess with the filter I always poke a hole in the bottom of the filter and it can drain at the same time as the pan with little or no mess unscrewing the filter.

Keep in mind that 2005 and 2006 models with the LS2 require the PF46E filter and the drain bolt is 13mm.

Wrap the old oil filter with a plastic bag after it's ready to be removed by hand (before the oil oil starts to drip). This avoids any oil spillage with no mess.

You can’t always fill the filter in very application but this one I would definitely pre-fill.

Very nice, i enjoy doing minor maintenance on our car, it's satisfying....We bought a 2011 corvettete base ...with LS3 6.2 Engine, the car is still in transit... so there is no manual for me to read....I saw some vetted required 10.5 qts.... but you've answered my question as to how much oil is needed. Thx again for an awesome video

Nice video, with the proper information and procedure. I like the Mahle or Wix filters; will not use a Fram due to its poor construction. The NAPA filters are reported to be of good quality also. I tighten the filters using hand pressure only whenever possible, but at times when there is no adequate room for using hand pressure, I will nudge the filter with a filter wrench that fits, using pressure only sparingly so as to not overtighten. I like the upright positioning of any oil filter because it is easier to fill it part or all the way with new oil before screwing it back on. For filters that must be installed in a horizontal position, I fill the filter only half-way with oil, otherwise the excess just drips out when the filter is re-installed. It's always a good idea to place an old wheel or steel rim under the car in case the jackstands fail. Learned that from an old mechanic friend. Also, always make sure the drain plug has been replaced before adding oil (learned that after botching my very first oil change decades ago), and remove the oil filler cap after removing the drain plug so as to allow a quicker drain process. Also a good idea to inspect the drained oil with a small magnet to see if there are any metal particles in the oil that would indicate problems within the engine.

very informative! appreciate the time spent making this!

Great vid! I am scared to poke around cast aluminum but it is a great idea. A driill and a 1/8 drill bit put a hole just right to let the oil pour out. After 50 yrs of changing oil on cars this is one trick I have not come across John.

Error Error Error , always confirm the old oil filter gasket is attached to the filter, the gasket can stick on the oil filter housing and you would double gasket the new filter which would then blow out under pressure and you would lose your new oil and your motor at the same time!

Easy to follow video. My local Chevrolet dealer charges $149 for an oil change on my 2005. Walmart charges under $50 for Mobil 1 oil and filter. I'll save myself the $100 and do it myself. Thanks.

Thank you very much! Going to follow this to do it on my own 2012 auto GS.

Thank you sir got new oil in mine thanks to you

Don’t forget the oil filter magnet 😎

thank you for Your films, keep it up

You might want to change oil filters from the cheap AC Delco to a K&N or even better a Mobile 1 filter.

Very nice !! Thanks buddy

After refilling oil hold the brake and gas at the same time while starting engine that way it won't fire but the oil pump will pump oil upwards. Don't forget to let off the gas to start it normally

You sir are the best 👍🏽

I would put oil into the new filter. I know synthetics are suppose to coat the metal surfaces, but the start up without oil pressure because of a dry filter is a concern to me.

Dealer charges me in the 70s. Definitely doing it on my own now.

Just found your channel. As a c6 owner am enjoying all of your vlogs. Sorry you have left you tube.

Hey great job,Thanks

Thank you for the video

Remember, the exhaust pipes are very hot. Fill the filter w oil before installing. I recommend ramps.

Great video. I thought all Curves were more involved because of the sump system in some models. This is no different than the other vehicles I've owned. A few suggestions are to update your descriptive text to state you have the automatic transmission, no sump and you need 6quartz.

Use a clear plastic cup and put it around the filter and get it loose. Keeps oil inside cup

Do you have to jack the left-hand of the car in the right hand of the car up at the same time?

thanks dude

Thank you

If u put a red plastic cup under the filter before unscrewing wala no mess

I found that the 15mm drain plug was too tight a fit to allow me to use a standard-length socket wrench and socket to remove the plug. We had moved recently, and God knows where my breaker bar now resides....probably in one of the moving boxes. So.....I used used a 2' piece of pipe insereted over the wrench handle for more leverage. Worked great. Unfortunately, I don't have a lift in the garage, so I had to resort to a pair of Rhino ramps. These ramps tend to move when driving the car onto them. Fortunately my garage has a "curb" at the front of the garage, and I was able to use large wooden blocks between the curb and the ramps so the ramps would stay in place. Worked great. I like the Rhino brand because the ramps are shallow-angled so as to not scrape the front bumper when driving onto them. I use Wix filters on my classic cars ('38 Chev with LS6 engine) and '67 Chev C10 stepside pickup with stock inline 250cid 6-cylinder engine. Wix or Mahle are quality filters; I don't use Fram. The Fram racing filters are purported to be superior to the "regular" Fram filters, but I know that Wix and Mahle are excellent filters, as are the NAPA filters that I believe are manufactured by Wix, Mahle or one of the other quality manufacturers. Since the oil filters on these engines are placed vertically, it is a snap to remove them. The author removed them by hand in the video, but I usually loosen them first with a filter wrench. I do, however, fill them as far as possible with oil before re-installing them, tightening them with hand pressure only as shown in the video. I don't feel that a small bit of tightening with a filter wrench is a problem if hand pressure is difficult to do---especially if your arm/hand strength is in doubt. Just don't over-tighten the filter. You can kind of "feel" when the filter is tight enough. Then again, I have been doing my own oil changes for many years and have had no problems. Always remember to replace the oil drain plug before you add the new oil. I learned this the hard way the first time I changed my own oil. Also, remember to loosen your oil cap before you remove the drain plug; you want to replace the oil with air as it empties; also don't drain your oil when the engine is cold because cold oil tends to be thicker, and more resistant to carrying out any contaminants as it flows into your plastic oil container. One final note: do NOT overfill the engine with oil because it will put too much pressure on the seals when the engine is started and running. The author properly recommends to fill the engine with a bit less oil than listed in the specs.....especially if part of the oil has been already added to the oil filter. As far as which brand to use: I use Mobil 1 5W30, but to each his own. Mose of the opinions on oil as used by car owners is based on voodoo. As far as I'm concerned Mobil, Castrol, Lucas and other top brands work as well. Everyone has his own opinion, and if you can find any scientific proof that points you to the "best" oil, buy it. Hints: have some nitrile gloves, paper towels handy. If you have to crawl under the car like I do, make sure the rear wheels are chocked and emergency brake activated. It is also a good idea to either place a steel wheel rim under the car or at least a pair of jackstands. Also, have newspapers placed beneath the oil collection pan so as to more easily slide out the pan to minimize oil-slosh when removing the pan from beneath the car. Do the job when you don't have anything to interrupt you. It's easy to make a mistake if you have a child in the vicinity, or a loving wife who wants your attention. Good luck; have fun.

Well done! I have a black 2010 GS auto and I love it- I was wondering about the automatic transmission fluid my car has just over 60,000 miles on it and I think it might be time what do you think?

Respect for sticking to OEM filters but just for your knowledge going forward, The ACDelco oil filters where filter number ends with "E" are actually mass produced in china, and are of significantly lower quality then the old Delco Filters.. My garage i used to give strictly ACDelco filters to all GM Vehicles but now they all get FRAM silvers unless a "non econemy" delco can be found locally.

I was under the impression the UPF48R was the better filter to use

What about your powertrain warranty?

Lol the signatures haha

5w 30?

you should fill that filter with oil..clean 5-30 ..dry is real bad.

Curious is this still an active channel?

How often do you change your oil and filter?

How often do you change your oil?

Who signed your engine covers?

Does yours not take 6qts??

Very expensive motor oil

You should put zmax in there every 6 months

Maybe try wrapping ur hand or fingers around the filter instead of under it lmao 😂

Well done! I have a black 2010 GS auto and I love it- I was wondering about the automatic transmission fluid my car has just over 60,000 miles on it and I think it might be time what do you think?