Ladies and gents this is the reason why you work on your own car. *Nobody will treat your baby like you would.*

My 18 yr old son just bought a 2007 c6 z06 and just joined the Marines with his brother I will be able to take care of his car while he is gone appreciate the video!!!

Nicely done. Some great tips. I now have no worries on doing my own Z06. Knew it required some steps to ensure you don’t over fill. Thank you for making this.

Thanks for this video. I have changed the oil in every car I have ever owned and the Z06 will be no different. Just bought an 08 z06 and will be doing an oil change for my first track day with the car in May.

I've got a wet sump Grand Sport and did an oil change this weekend. With the oil filter in the point down vs. on the side on the motor, I hated having to pull the filter with it full of oil. I took a 1/16 drill bit and put a little hole in the bottom of the filter to let it drain while I took a break for lunch. I want every drop out of the filter before removing it. I know you said guys put holes in them and I would STRONGLY recommend it. Once you've dropped a filter in a pan of oil splashing it everywhere, it's worth the extra 10-15 minutes of letting the filter drip clean. Thx for posting! Love your fill bottle for the oil filter... I need to get one of those.

Thank you for using my oil filter. My owners manual for 2007 Z06 indicates eight quarts of oil. Yes, the newer Z06s take 10 quarts for the record consult your owners manual. Happy Motoring in that Z06...

Well put together video with great tips and at a good pace. Just bought an '11 Z1R and will follow closely.

On these bottom mounted oil filters, you can put a plastic shopping bag over it before removing by hand and all the oil is then contained

Thank you so much for this video. Now I know how to do the oil change on my beautiful yellow C6 Z06 2007 that I call my little sunshine. I owe you a beer 🍺

First class video.....meticulous work and well prepared!

One more thing, as far as priming your filter. If you choose to prim it.. you need to do it threw the small holes. When engine is running, it goes threw the small holes ,threw the filter element and returns the filtered oil back to the engine threw the big hole. So if you are pouring oil into the big hole... that goes right into the engine unfiltered until it comes back around. So if your funnel has ANY dust in it or if some how something got into the clean oil, it won't be filtered.

I want to clear up one thing in this video, as some folks pointed it out. The proper way to check the oil level in a Z06 is to get the car up to running temperature (coolant temp > 190 degrees), and then let the car sit for 5-10 minutes, but no more than 10. Check the oil level via the dipstick, and as long as it's in the cross-hatch area (oil is left on the middle hole), you're good to go. The oil level continues to drop in the sump tank as the car cools, so if you wait longer than 10 minutes, you'll get an incorrect reading. When I do my oil via the procedure in this video, checking for full is redundant because I get virtually every drop out of the car, and put back in exactly 8 quarts. I spot check my oil level between oil changes and it's always at the correct level. But I just wanted to point out the correct way to check for full (as outlined in the user manual). Thanks!

Nice work. A few additional notes: On my 2012 Z06, the drain plugs are 15mm, and it takes 10.5 quarts of new oil. Being anal, I pour a little (maybe a quarter of a quart) of fresh oil in after the old oil has drained, and let that flush out the little leftover residue in the pan, before putting the plugs back in. Finally, being frugal, I made my own ramps using two 2"x12"x10' planks, gradually ramping them up using an array of 2"x4"x11" blocks stacked up gradually along the way. With four blocks on the front end and the thickness of the 2x12, it gets the front of the car up ~7.5"; and the rear up by 1.5", since the planks are just long enough to get both the front and rear tires on them.

Thank you! This convinced me to give it a try on my '07 C6Z. Easy! I ended up using a Mobil 1 filter (M1-113A), the Needa drain plug gaskets (66451), and 8 quarts of M1 5W-30 but found that plastic measuring cup too flimsy (oil kept running down from the spout and off the bottom where the funnel couldn't catch it). Thanks for saving me about $60 and the confidence that the job has been done right!

Great video!

Thank you for your detailed on your oil change. I'm getting ready to buy myself a c6 ZO6 to make it into a track car. So I'm watching every video I can. I do know the first thing that I have to do is to change the cylinder heads. That really doesn't bother me since I plan on changing the cam an exhaust system. Do you got very lucky with your drain plugs not ripping the threads out. The Ford dealership had to do some major work on my Shelby mustang and afterwards they of course had to change the oil. After getting the car back everything was fine and after a weekend of racing I went out to change my oil that Monday morning. Every vehicle that I own I have enough oil and filters to do oil changes anytime I need to. I'm getting off of subject. I have owned mustangs for over 30 years and have owned every model that they have ever made so I'm no stranger on how to work on a Ford. I use a wrench to take off the drain plug and that's where all the trouble started. They must of put that drain plug in using a impact gun. Once it broke loose it ripped out all all of the threads from the pan. I was furious and lowered the car and used my winch to load it up onto the trailer to go to the Ford dealer that had done the work and who I deal with on a regular basis. I'm considered a priority customer when it comes to service or sales since I buy so many vehicles from there for by company that I own. I am personal friends with the service manager and had called him on my way there. As soon as I pulled up I had 4 mechanics that jumped up onto the trailer to unload my car for me. One of them is the one who did the damage. When they put it on the left and saw the damage they went ahead to remove the other drain plug. That one did not rip the threads out but it took a breaker bar to unloosen it. They want it to just fix the pan and I told them that was completely unacceptable. I'm not racing a car that has a Hilo coil or a oversize drain plug. Since I am such a good customer the service manager what I had and ordered the new oil pan. He even told me if I left my trailer that he would personally load it back up and bring it back to my house for the inconvenience. So after going through all of that I will never leave the dealership again without somebody showing me just how tight they put the bolts back in. Like I said it was just a unusual situation since I do all my own work. And this case it was a major failure that the dealer had to make good on and that's the only reason they even got a chance to touch my car once I bought it. Again thank you for your useful information and sorry for such a long story. It just makes me mad by you have these guys that are supposed to be professional who cannot even do a proper oil change.

Thanks man...great video

Great video! It is sure nice to see pride in ownership. keep smiling. PS I

Torque wrench tip. When working with a click type torque wrench I will put an extension in the vise and check to see if the torque wrench trips. I will set it lower than the target, trip it, set it to the target and use it. The reason being is, if the setting was wound down past the lowest setting when it was last used, the wrench may not function correctly which could turn into disaster in a hurry. Great video by the way.

Thankfully, there's a dealership I go to with one guy who works on my car. I bring my own oil and filter (Amsoil/WiX XP), $40 later and I'm done. I used to do my own oil changes. But, this car is just too difficult for me. I'm thankful the tech does a great job and knows my Z.

Good stuff!

Just changed my oil, had your guidance all the way. Thank you! BTW, I'm going to Bloomington, have you ever been? This will be my first.

Go with the WIX XP brother. Its WIX's oil filter for synthetic oil. And it's still very inexpensive. Finally someone as meticulous as me with oil changes.. nice!

While the plugs are out, push up on the sump to pan lines and get the oil out of those too

Being a relatively new C6 Z06 owner, I appreciate this. Questions: Are those the 56" Race Ramps (with the extenders) you are using on the front? Is your C6 lowered?

Good information Thanks

Note: double check the amount of oil needed. In this video, it is mentioned that 8 quarts were needed. Later LS7s take 10.5. BIG difference!

If you don't over torque the drain plugs, they should last the life of the car. You may need to replace the gasket/washer, but not the plug. That size thread is actually made to max at about 60 +ft lbs. safely. So when you torque the plug at 18 ft. Lbs. It is never going to stretch the threads.

Nice video little heavy on the rubber gasket on the drain plug but other than that good

Because some people are asking, the oil capacity of the LS7 dry sump tank was changed by GM in 2009. Please do your own research before attempting any maintenance on your car. See here for details on oil capacity: www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/knowledgebase/article/2009-corvette-z06-and-zr1-gm-techlink-article-oil-system-changes-ls7-and-ls9-106.html

Nice vid man. I didn't read all of the posts so i dont know if you were asked but, what type of headers do you have on your Z06 and what exhaust system do you have? Those headers look good

Your old oil still looked good coming out of the drain plug.

Okay so you may not know the answer but if it's not a dry sump system would that second drain plug towards the front be there on a c6?

Thanks again

Mobil1 is pretty good oil but it doesn’t have that many lubricants is which it’s pretty cheap. I use either royal purple, or redline, I have used amsoil but my buddies swear by the two previous oils. Redlines unreal oil! But it’s three times the money lol. Best stuff for my N20 since it does have timing chain issues and mobil 1 just won’t cut it. Some good oil that’s a bit better than monil1 is liqui moly.

Is it normal to have minor metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug on a low milage vehicle ?! I’ve heard it’s part of the break in process

Can you provide some measurements of your rear cross beam adapter you made ? Seems a lot sturdier than just a flat 2x6

Great video! Are those the 56" or 67" race ramps?

I saw you have new plugs, but you just recommend putting new seals on it every other oil change correct? Not a new plug itself?

Have you fix the issue with the valves that is known in LS7 engines?

Can you please share the dimensions of your wood support beam to jack up the rear and the rear race ramp? I’m getting ready to buy and want to make sure I have everything. Great video btw.

Is it worth it getting more expensive oil ? Going to do the first oil change on my 09z

What wheels do you have ?they look sick!!

You should look into investing in a ranger quickjack. No more race ramps andd they store nicely

I have a torque wrench that’s rated from 20-150ft lbs, also a CDI. If the drain bolt is rated at 18ft lbs, will 20 be enough to strip the threads, or will it be safe to use for this?

Is it true that the 08+ and up cars takes a couple more quarts of oil?? Thats what someone at a shop told me

Jamoke. Z06 be taking 10.5!

Thanks 2006 Chevrolet Corvette V8-7.0L.

🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾

Wasn't there a recall on hf Jack's?

I thought you are suppose to fill it, then let it run to operating temperature, then wait about 5 to 10 minute to check the reading. If you just fill it all the way up and don't let it warm up, you won't get an accurate reading. Also, when you fill it, some of the oil will drain back into the crank ump giving you a lower than normal reading in the dry sump. By letting it warm up for about 10 minute, you give it time to drain back into the dry ump but not enough time to tart draining back into the crankcase, giving you the most accurate reading for exactly how much oil is in the dry sump before it begins to leak out into the crank sump,

Looks like your oil pan gasket is slowly leaking. I have replaced mine last year. About $1,000 job at the shop. The front suspension and cross member needs to be removed. I think starter and tranny cover needs to be removed as well.

U treat that car like a baby literally

Get a low profile oil drain pan and avoid jacking up the rear end. That is unneeded extra work and time wasted. Goodness. Other than that a great video. Thanks!