Exactly what I was thinking!! 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼

Getting ready to do mine this weekend. Got a leaking valve cover anyway so time to update it myself.

yeah sorry about that nobody wants to hear about my bullshit lol

@@c_mac7773 youll be one of the rare few with a 5.3 because yukons with denali trim level only had the 6.2. my dad has a 2013 denali and has never had any sort of issues with afm, but after 2011 i think most of the issues were solved

@@southwestohiodashcam6838I’ve got a 2015 Denali and I was 3 quarts low after 4K miles.

Did you try it?

@Dirty Sanchez the pvc pipe pulls the oil into the intake, thats why many run a catch can before it goes to the intake to filter out the oil in liquid form. They drain the catch can every 2 fillups.

my 06 is now smoking at start up as well. Im gonna need to do this over the Christmas or Thanksgiving break. Thankfully, our suburban is now relegated to use very rarely as the kids are grown and out of the house, so I drive my silverado and wife uses her miata.

@@reid1boys did it fix your smoke issue aswell?

Not sure how that would change oil pressure at all but glad it took care of the smoke.

the 08 vette has a 6.2 idk if u knew that

@@bistroturbogang2943 08 silverado, was 5.3 ly6 swap

I suggest parts to customers and they buy them, if they don't follow my suggestions on parts my warranty ends as they touch the road. I only charge labor. A month ago i charged 120 for a radiator replace on a 2010 armada, it was a pain due to how crammed they are, plus they still use a clutch fan...

Any updates on your valve cover really curious to do mine

@@earljackson7179 haven't got around to doing them yet. We got snowed in last month. Be getting to them soon. It's just the driver side that needs done. I'm checking my lifters out is why I'm just replacing both valve cover gaskets. A lot of people do this fix and it seems to hold up pretty good.

Lol, careful you might get carried away. I had a oil pressure issue on an acquired Tahoe. Took it apart and next thing I knew I was installing a 4in stroke, forged pistons, forged rods, and a performance cam targeting torque. 🤣

im going in friday

I installed an after market with the supposed “fix” and the same thing happened after removing the original. I just purchased an OEM updated cover but also drilled the holes. One thing that’s been happening to me is, after idling for 15 minutes, I give it gas and blows puffs of blue smoke. This only started happening with the aftermarket updated valve cover. It’s never blows blue smoke on start up so I’m only guessing this is part of the issue. We’ll see I guess…

Please Can you provide the updated cover part number

@@abufaisal2199 I'm about to do this on my 2007 tahoe

@@abufaisal2199 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aauHktJj3N-9lmQ.html

@@sydpix Hey, so how did your valve cover situation come out in the end? Would like to hear. I've been on fence about modifying an updated cover. Thanks for input!

I have a lot of engine building videos also available that might help you tackle the job. One is a camshaft specific one even.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I guess I should ask a basic question - should I be attempting this with the engine still in the truck and in my driveway since I don't have a garage? Is this dumb of me?

If dirt is going to blow into the engine bay I wouldn't mess with it.

@@wolfsmane it would be fine. I'm a mechanic also. Just make sure you cover any thing you take off. Aka valves after taking off cover. Just use something clean to cover it. And make sure it has something to hold it down. I've done complete rebuilds in my driveway. You'll be fine. Just do your best to reduce contaminates. Cover any that is needed.

@@jonjack6704 Yeah, I already did that a while ago and everything was pretty straight forward and almost easy. Thanks though

Update??

Got to be honest, going to get rid of the tohoe, still runs and drives great, just getting much newer Yukon with 6.2, not worth fixing

​@@hisexcellencytrump855the 2014+ yukons are ass and goodluck getting parts from dealer. Just turned in a 2022 tahoe z71 for a 23 f250 because ive been waiting on my backup cam for a year 😂

I have a sierra with a 6.2 2019 is doing the same thing. 4 quarts in 10k

He drilled holes on the stock valve cover, the updated valve cover wouldn't need holes to be drilled sense it was updated to correct this issue 🤷‍♂️🤦

@@highstream5594 the one in the video is the updated one.

@@highstream5594 that was the updated valve cover he had in his hands……………… makes me wonder just how much of an “ expert” he is with his engine building, LoL.

My car consumed 2 litters every 2000 miles.. Do u think it is going tocwork?

@@omanm5494 The only way to find out is to try it.

Drill bit size?

@@demonqb9 I don't think it is an exact science. Go a size or two bigger than the one hole that is right next to the PVC valve.

Did mine last week "5/32

Recalls are safety related not oil consumption or mechanical failures that aren't dangerous

Hayden is correct. As vehicles are crash tested, if a upper seal belt bolt, anchor fails, that is safety. I a guy comes in with an oil consumption issue, the tech checks for TSB’s and recommends labor & parts as per the GM fix. FMVSS are one thing that may lead into a safety or nuisance issue. Recalls are letters sent to the last registered owner which 98% get tossed. A TBS is checked at the dealer to see if there is a resolve to eliminate or reduce a known problem. To be reimbursed for warranty work, a service advisor “Has To Check” for outstanding “Recalls”. If the are not done, the customer must sign a document stating they can’t wait, no parts, or a reason why the customer won’t let them do the recall. Otherwise, the dealer will not be paid for repairs under warranty. This is the same for all, be it Toyota to BMW. Huge difference! Hope that makes sense regardless of how much it makes you mad. There are over 3,000 parts used to build a car and an average of 4.2 miles of wire. Just know that some happen when new or newer, while others show up miles or years later. Personally, I hate the cheap wire rope w/plastic guides that wrap around a spool to roll windows up and down. You can say the same for wiper motors, but plastic makes them lighter, more fuel efficient and CAFE numbers by your government say so. How each do that, it up to them. Just think, 30 years from now the Camero has a 3 cylinder engine in it! Yeah....Quick, somebody wake up lunch bucket and tell him!

@@haydendenard2693 he know that. He said THEY SHOULD BE

Update? Smoke at cold start go away? Less consumption? Thanks!

Update?

Hi everyone, no luck on mine. Smoke stopped in the fist crack but the oil consumption continue. This 5.3 can disappear oil like no other. The best 5.3 from my experience is the 01 to 03 models. I had an 01 with 290k running like a champ. I little knock for running strong.

Let me know if it works on that one too I haven't tried them yet.

Check the hose from the valve cover for oil residue first. If it looks wet it's coming through the hose from cover issue. I thought the 2004 had the valley cover pcv system though. If that's the case this might not apply. It could be new enough though. Nice work with the atf and filters to clean up that engine though. I actually have a couple vids I talk about atf for a flush.

Did it solve your problem? I’m having the same issue. Thanks.

Same question did it fix your smoke problem im seeing people say this helps with the 1st start smoke issue

@@erichernandez5137 yes, solved my issues. Cleaned it out with brake cleaner and drilled the additional holes. No problems since.

​@@MrJonjonoo7sweet I need to do this

You have spammed my channel with some 22++ comments in under 1hr of time. Congratulations, you have won the I have nothing better to do but boost this guys algorithm award....

I have the same issue did this work and also did cause your engine to misfire

@@tattooart420 if I remember right. I was getting a p0300 code. While changing the knock sensors lots of oil dumped out of the intake. And the truck was going through oil. More than normal... I never noticed much of a miss. But the computer was picking up something... I dont really know of I fixed it. I traded the truck to my sister.

Yup I mentioned it in description. I was wrong in the video. Either way both designs are flawed. It gets worse if the lifters let too much oil passed and overwhelm the cover too yet.

When the rings are stuck a atf engine flush works good to fix that.

Under warranty we weren’t aloud to do any of that. What’s the process that works? The cleaner in the cylinder did nothing to free them up

@@jfarm_1311 Basically I change the oil but fill it with ATF instead of oil and let it sit and run for several hrs. I check on it periodically to see how oil pressure is doing and if it starts to drop from the first baseline hot temp I change the oil filter. I will also every so often bring the RPM's up to 3500-4000 slowly to make sure I get the ATF really moving around. I just make sure not to drive or load it down at all. ATF is not a very good lubricant with all the detergent. If it is a really nasty engine after I drain it out and go back to engine oil I will fill the 6qt system with 5qt engine oil and 1qt ATF and tell the customer to come back in 2k miles for another oil change.

CrazedPerformanceRepair for some reason it won’t let me read the 2nd half. If it drops you change it again? Straight atf no oil in the crankcase? My truck is actually an oil burner as well. It’s pre afm which were much more known for the issues. I installed the new version valve cover when I still worked for gm and it didn’t change. I would like to possibly find a way to solve the issue without tearing it down

@@jfarm_1311 if you are looking from phone there should be a read more at bottom, click that guy. I never changed the comment it should all be there.

You might have lifters that are badly leaking.

​@CrazedPerformanceRepair I just saw your reply. I have Johnson axle oiling lifters, which reduce oil psi 10-15. I've been monitoring oil consumption since my last oil change and I'm losing about 1qt every 400mi. I'm going to send in a UOA and see if they can eliminate a poor honing when engine was rebuilt in 2019.

What size holes did you drill?

You fix it?

I mean that sounds like something different especially since you know number 7 is an issue

Just purchased a tahoe cheap because owner thought it was burning oil 🤣

Most of the times when I found #7 oil fouled after replacing the plug and updating the valve cover, that cylinder usually has scoring when torn down. GM tech here.

@@rkinniI'm so happy to find a GM tech on here! Can I ask you a few questions about oil pan clearance issues pertaining to wanting to use a f-body or CTS-V oil pan on my 2010 avalanche (5 3). My lmg engine is getting replaced with an ls3 at my local dealership once my circle d converter comes in. From my understanding the LS3 crate engine comes with a f-body oil pan. My question is if I purchase the engine and installation from my local chevy dealership will they be able to complete the install with the f-body oil pan or use the lmg oil pan? I have purchased an aftermarket oil pan baffle kit for the f-body oil pan to prevent oil starvation. Will it be possible for a 25 year tech to finesse the ls3 f-body oil pan in my 2010 avalanche or will the dealership balk at me and want to use the lmg oil pan? I am willing to pay the extra labor to notch the crossmember if possible. Could you please shed any light on if I can use the f-body or CTS-v oil pan with my 2010 avalanche LS3 swap or will the notch it since the body is not under warranty? Any insight you can share would help me greatly. This is my 1st swap and thanks in advance!

What kind of screws and when you chisel out the rivets does it leave a joke for the screws to go into? Thanks

@@JustTrizIt have to drill holes. Use sheet metal screws to put it back together. The rivets are part of the casting that is smashed to hold baffle cover on.

Holy crap I haven't used that stuff in a while, almost forgot about it. I'll have to get some more next time I'm near a dollar store. That stuff meets its name, and heck it's even priced alright.

Sorry for the late response!…but yeah I have a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham and I removed the 307 engine and tranny and those old engines are known to leak all over the place but my god they don’t die!…however It was caked with oil buildup but that awesome cleaned that engine up with nooooo problem!…and the little oil I missed the machine shop cleaned up!…the stuff is the real deal!…I got all my mechanic neighbors using it!…

Guess I didn’t get my service bulletin 🤷‍♂️

While the cover is off start it and watch the oil spraying from the pushrod. If any shoot a stream the lifter has a issue and could also be a source of oil consumption.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair if it is spraying out of the pushrod would that excess oil be leaving out the PCV into the intake? I notice that when I “get on” the accelerator a puff of smoke comes out the exhaust. Thoughts?

@@tinbus149 That puff of smoke is because the intake has a puddle of oil in it from the pcv system. So when you get on it the puddle shifts to the back cylinders pooring some in and thus smoke out the tailpipe. So if a lifter is spraying more oil then the valve cover can drain out it will suck it in, or if the cove is blocked and can't drain it naturally even without bad lifters it willsuck it in and puddle as well.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair okay, I’m gonna work on that valve cover this weekend. I’ll let you know what I get from that over the next month or so. I’ll subscribe. Thank you for your time.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Was able to get the valve cover off yesterday. I did not notice the pushrods spraying too much oil or spraying a stream of oil. I drilled the holes and cleaned the cover as much as I could. I will get back to you with the results. Thank you for the advice.

It worked. I checked the oil a few weeks ago & today, still at about the full mark on my 5.3 vortec which is between the 4th & 5th hole on the dipstick. 👍🏽👍🏽

@@209Stretch Hey, did you modify the baffle or just use the updated style valve cover on drivers side? Thx for your input, trying to assist a friend and also do whatever I can on my 2002 5.3 in Tahoe.

@mu9627 First I replaced the original valve cover with the updated valve cover which did absolutely nothing. oil consumption was still as before so with that one I ended up doing the same thing this guy did and the oil consumption has been next to zero. I hope this helps.

@209Stretch thanks for providing your experience with it. Yes, this helps. Hate to say, yet consensus does hold some value, doesn't account for some variables. Every engine can operate just a little bit different. Manifold vacuum and crankcase pressures, amount of blowby, cold or hot. I'm grateful for the posted replies to what would seem a simple solution to a semi complex issue. When they run, they're amazing. Reasonable fuel economy, good emissions and power on tap. Just like my Oldsmobile 350 with a q jet and 2:56 single wheel peel Cutlass. Reasonable economy if driven easy, great power... took longer to warm up, yet all cast iron...oh, yet no pcv issues! .with the EFE passage under the intake it could sometimes be hard to start hot.

Nice. What grommet did you use?

@@greyhairedmountainbiker116 just a replacement grommet for a 99-02 truck that would have originally had a factory pcv valve

So I should buy a valve cover for an 02 silverado for my 2013 ?

@@tipsreviews7476 i dont know that the2013 heads are the same bolt pattern for valve covers. Thats is something you would have to check

Do you think this may be the cause of oil In the manifold?

You have spammed my channel with some 22 comments in under 1hr of time. Congratulations, you have won the I have nothing better to do but boost this guys algorithm award....

@Jason Benavides it did not. I thought about having it torn down again and try rebuilding it myself or saving for a new engine. Maybe the one I have is just cursed. I don’t know what else to do.

You might have a lifter flooding the valve cover with oil because it's failing hydraulically. Add another drain hole next to the oe one closer to the back. When you have the valve cover off for doing that also check if the lifter is doing as I explained earlier. You can do this by starting the truck with the valve cover off and watching how much oil squirts out of the rockers. A good functioning lifter should hardly have any oil come out of that little pushrod hole at the pushrod side of the rocker. If it's squirting over the fenders and making a huge mess as soon as you start it, that lifter is bad. It's likely a bad lifter at the back flooding that drain hole.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks,I'll check that out.

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Great info, thanks again for sharing your vast knowledge on these engines. Complicated and cumbersome at times, yet if they can be corrected, you can't beat em for transportation and beats alternatives.

Just wondering since this “ baffle” has been such a pain in the ass for so long, why not just remove the baffle all together!!!! And I thought that was the “ updated” rocker arm cover he had in his hands?!?

​@@user-ev4pb9xj7ethen you will suffer bad oil consumption issues

I would think, that the larger hole , in the plastic intake manifold, the lager dirty side PCV hole, will allow more crankcase gunk, to get sucked into the intake manifold, thus more crankcase gunk depositing on intake valves, thus a faster rate of "lava rock" carbon building up on intake valves. .. if so , more "lava rock". Carbon would then fall of intake valves during LSPI, and would accelerate the onset of oil consumption.... remember IN THEORY, the VALVE. COVER breather "restricted flow hole", as the video calls it... Allows air INTO crankcase, and the dirty side PCV orifice ( which was drilled larger) sucks air out of crankcase

@@pietsee1000 The baffle isn't airtight. The holes are oil drain holes. That makes no difference in the amount of airflow. If you will notice there is also a hole ~1"x5/8" if remember correctly. Its vastly larger than the PCV tube or many of the drilled holes!

Micah AP You mis understood what I meant. Not the valve cover.. the intake manifold. The valve cover is designed to let air into crankcase.. the valve cover has the clean air breather hose and the clean side PCV ...... the intake manifold which is a black plastic part, has the dirty side PCV, ,,,, and in this video series he increased the size of the dirty side PCV orifice.. a bigger hole. He made 2 changes, he drilled a bigger hole in dirty side PCV and... and he drilled holes in the valve cover splash shield ...

@@pietsee1000 I believe he only cleaned out the hole vacuum connection or dirty pcv side.

Micah AP The holes in the steel plate of the intake cover that he drilled , the restricted flow vent, is the clean side PCV breather. Air is sucked into crankcase via that system. In another video, which is part of this video series, crazed drilled out the dirty PCV orifice , which is located in the plastic intake manifold.... crazed increased the hole from the Oem design of 2 mm in diameter , to a larger diameter. THAT Larger diameter hole, the larger diameter dirty side PCV orifice, is WHY when he removed oil cap, in the other video, there was air being sucked into the crankcase. Drilling holes in the steel plate in the valve cover makes no difference to oil consumption AND drilling the dirty side PCV orifice larger IS A MISTAKE, DONT DO IT.

It's also crazy how inconsistent they are even on one that's not very worn out.