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Forget the Creality CR-6, lets seem more of that mini-lathe!

I agree that it's very overhyped. That being said, I feel as if Creality did a decent job at improving the Ender 3.

It would have murdered most other options if it could stay ~$250 retail.

Nice video...thanks for taking the time to add the timestamp tabs, really cool feature I didn't even know existed!

Ever since you mentioned the power supply fan noise on Twitter (I think it was Twitter) I've been trying to print with my CR-6 SE non stop, and my power supply fan doesn't kick on like yours or sound like yours. I haven't had time to pull it apart yet, but I'll dig deeper and try to compare what I have with what you have.

Backed it - I am a plain glass bed person so I'll flip it over. I can't buy an Ender3 pro and upgrade it for $320 so I bought one. I completely agree on the power supply - I will address the power supply fan noise when I receive mine. I wish they would pay a little more attention to the power supply and electronics cooling by a employing a quieter fan and improved passive cooling techniques. Your concerns about the power supply specs for the EU are valid, let's hope they select something more appropriate (and quieter) for the production units.

I backed this one at the 319USD, and I bought it since I wanted a smaller one besides my CR10S Pro that after a couple of upgrades given me a lot of hours of fun, even after a lot of headache but that´s mostly me being a complete newbie since under 6 months I thought it was a good value product for the backers price, basically that´s what drove me to purchase it, and since I am satisfied with the community and forums behind the creality printers, they seem to be a good trade between price and functions and parts

6:30 They have the same PSU in my CR-10S Pro, and yes, it drives me crazy that they have quiet stepper drivers and everything, and then this crazy loud power supply. So you're not alone 😊.

Finally a more down to earth review that actually addresses the issues I as an avid designer think about when choosing a good printer.

I really would say that prusa has to be worried with the competition evolving this quickly for half of the price of an mk3s. I don't know how long they will hold on the mk3s wave that really seems outdated now: No screen interface (casio style) No wifi connectivity Still firmware that heat the bed when you are just triing to unlock the filament. No filament guide tube Not precise bed leveling (well not anymore when you see that) Still using belt instead of steel treads Noisy bed ballbearings Still not friendly to adjust tension belt (bed plate speaking) Have to mount it yourself (i still think it's an advantage to know how to assemble your printer, but today an mk3s cost 999 for assembled version, to be compared with all those new tech printers at 450 ?) Hope they will come back soon with a new mk4 !

Thanks for this video! Good review. I backed at $320, it's my first machine, and I'm looking forward to getting it. I wouldn't pay the retail price for it though. I considered the Prusa but it's outside what I was willing to spend on a hobby I'm just starting in, and the auto-leveling is a big deal. Nonetheless, if the power supply fan and the bed heat-up time are your biggest complaints about a printer in this price range I feel like I'm probably in good shape starting out.

I can't help comparing every new printer to my Sidewinder X1 v4 I got during "Black Friday" 2019 for US$349, delivered. - The rigid construction eliminates any need for auto bed-leveling: The bed can be manually leveled once then forgotten for many spools. I've only re-leveled mine when switching nozzles (using 0.6 now). - The need for easy belt tensioners goes away when the belts are better quality and simply don't stretch. - The silicone AC bed heater gets the large textured glass bed get up to temperature quickly. Yes, I also want a flexible metal PEI bed, but it's for convenience, not need. - The clone Volcano hot-end is a dream, even for regular prints. It even lets me easily print filament that's too wet for my other printers. - The direct-drive extruder makes sense on larger printers because it won't cause a speed penalty compared to moving the massive bed. - The dual-drive Z with a sync belt eliminates all worries about misalignment. Talk about "belt & suspenders"! The list goes on, but you get the idea: A printer that gets all the small mechanical things right doesn't need to get too fancy. Looking at the CR-6 SE from this perspective, it's easy to see that the auto-leveling is needed not for the hard-mounted bed, but due to the expected droop of the single-side drive Z axis. Single-side Z drive works great for tiny printers with light carriages (and Bowden extruders), but it doesn't scale well. For something this size, at a minimum I'd like to see a second worm shaft driven by a belt from a single Z stepper. Now look at the choice for Bowden: Creality still needs the light carriage, but not for speed: This is to minimize the droop the auto-leveling must compensate. Finally, let's go back to Stefan's observation of the low force of the auto-leveling sensor: This is needed to avoid LIFTING the floating Z! I suspect there's droop baked-in to the design itself that Creality couldn't be bothered to remove. The Creality CR-6 SE is a kluge, a compromised up-scale of a successful (but smaller) lightweight design.

I backed it. It cost me just over $340 US. This will be my first 3D Printer. The reason I backed it was because of all the good feedback from the likes of 3D Printing Nerd, Michael from Teaching Tech, CHEP and a few others. I wanted something less fiddley to get started with and this appears to be an easy to setup printer. I'm sure if creality doesn't do as much to fix the issues you mentioned, the community will. It's amazing what the community has done for the Ender 3 series.

Premature Triggering is a problem most of us can relate to...

Now having hands on experience with mine - it is a big improvement over what I had (ANET a8). The auto-leveling is huge. Big time saver, reduces failed prints. My interest in 3d printing is to get to a quick prototype design-to-print workflow and this has done it. I can can go from rough drawing to blender to Cura to at least starting as physical print in much less than an hour. The print quality at .1mm is great. I just wish it worked with Octoprint correctly.

I actually did back this- as it’s my first 3D printer, the idea of a self leveling bed was a definite deciding factor. Looking forward to learning the craft with this thing.

Thanks for pointing out the power supply noise. I've upgraded the fans on my Anycubic i3 Mega so I had completely forgotten that fan noise from the PSU could be a problem so now I'll have an upgrade ready to install during assembly.

Great video and objective review. Thank you. They only go 90% because they can sell you the other 10% in the 'Pro' version in 6 months.

I have backed this as my first 3d printer. The most appealing factors to me over Ender 3 pro was the dual z lead screw, solid bed mount, 60 mm y extrusion, silent stepper driver, position of power supply etc. along-with other bells and whistles. Prusa i3 mk3 is twice the price in kit variant and I don't have the budget.

I backed this on kick starter at the 319$ price. I was watching Joe Tellings video and my wife encouraged me to get it because it just looked like a solid printer compared to my Kossel Pulley delta that am constantly working on. I started with a 2016 Tevo Tarantula with was well known as a Print Your Own upgrades printer. Since I haven’t been able to get that printer up and running and I am constantly complaining about my Delta’s 165-170mm max print diameter, we thought this was a printer I wouldn’t have to “fiddle” with printing my own parts and I can keep using for awhile. I also want to print advanced materials like CF-PETG so I like that I can swap in my existing v6 A2 nozzles. I am concerned about the PTFE lined hotend, so I am hoping they listen to the survey and modify the heat break. Otherwise I might be machining my own to test with.

Built-in bed levelling is a game-changer for beginners that have no engineering knowledge, because it removes the biggest problem. Total newbs will be happy to pay the $100 extra for that feature preinstalled.

*Non-Creality-Centric channels always complain they would prefere a flexible bed.* Failing to realize most Ender-3 Pro owners had to spend extra money to get-out of the flexible and go to the glass. That's actually a "free" upgrade, not a problem.

Strain gauge sensor works in theory but not great on nozzles unless it is levelled hot, as filament will point out of almost any nozzles that have been printing, in various amount. Having a hot nozzle levelling...is not something i would recommend but i guess they sorted that out. Still, a strain gauge capable of reading must give stress either on bed or nozzle.

Nice to see someone else picking up the power supply incompatibility with EU (and UK for that matter) regs. Most people I've talked to about it just brush it off - mostly the US in particular don't much care. The main issue is the LRS series don't have power factor correction (PFC) which is required by the EU regulation IEC/EN61000-3-2 - makes for a more power-efficient electricity network so better for the environment. This EU approach however is only effective if it's a regulation applied to all devices so that the small individual differences accumulate. Having said that, this is also the case for pretty much all machines from China (including all the other Creality machines I believe), so nothing new. Obviously Prusa aren't in a position to get away with that, or at least the PSU in my Prusa Mk3 has PFC. The RSP series from Meanwell have active PFC, for something like a $5-$10 difference retail. I suspect Creality just don't even think about it.

I think it's a great printer (as long as it works as advertised) for the price. If you got an ender 3 pro (I do) and you added upgrades to get to this point, you'd spend a lot more. I think you're nitpicking at the fan noise. 99% of people aren't going to use this machine in a quiet office setting, so that isn't really a fair complaint. I can't believe you're comparing this to a Prusa? That machine costs double what this costs, and you're complaining about a few dollars of extra parts to be just as good?

Bringing this printer to kickstarter fueled it in becoming a hype, but with no real gain behind it. Just another pareto product that had its feature set determined by target price and release date, without engineering it to those full 100 % that would really justify a big hype!

This will be my first 3D printer -- in September.

I absolutely LOVE the ceramic-coated glass bed on my Anycubic machine - so much I bought two more of them for other printers Maybe Creality's glass has a different surface texture, because the beds I use practically eject PLA/PETG prints once they've cooled below 30C or so

One thing I really liked about this printer and was the deciding factor if I continued my kickstarter or cancelled it, I was originally concerned because it had a belt typing the two Z lead screws together and I was wondering if it was constrained with a bearing. (while yes, you optimally want this constrained with a bearing, if it is not machined true you will be having a lot of issues. This is why a lot of chinese printers leave slop in the Z-Axis and do not constrain it.) after I asked the question on Nerys' live video he showed the printer and said that it works well. My ideology is if they went as far as to machine those good enough in tolerance that they can constrain those Z screws without an issue, they are probably running better tolerances and it does look like they took into account "the little things" While I'd be hard pressed to pay retail for this printer, I paid $299 (+ extra strain gauge and extra hot end) and I feel I got a very good deal. I think Creality did a wonderful job, but yes the first thing I'll be doing is doing temp checks on the PSU & nozzle fans & swapping to noctura silent fans.

3:30 that was one of the issues that I though of when I saw some of the first reviews. It sounds good on paper, but when used in reality some things can easily interfere with it's effectiveness. Everyone knows (or should know by now) that both the bed and nozzle have to be up to temp before any leveling is done (to get the most accurate measurements), but when the nozzle is at temp, some filament could be slowly oozing out from it, and that melted filament will most likely leave a tiny little "blob" each time the nozzle's tip touches the bed to measure it. If that happens, you'd have to disengage the steppers motors after the leveling is done, and then move the bed forward to try and scrap/remove off all those tiny filament "blobs" before you would start printing. Imo, I would much rather have a separate BL sensor close to and to the side of the nozzle.

Really appreciate your straight forward review. Keep up the good work!

On the TMC 2209s - there are two significant differences with the TMC 2208s that I'm aware of; the stall guard feature as you mention, but also they're capable of substantially higher output power. I believe (correct me if I'm wrong!) this means they require less cooling, so maybe if the board has TMC 2209s it's more likely to last longer.

I already upgraded my Ender 3 with a silent board, direct extruder (which works great with the filament spool on top), silent power supply fan, glass bed. I never had issues with bed leveling. The power fan replacement with an 80mm would be impossible with the power supply below the printer and the new print head with the (admittedly cool leveling mechanic) would also be difficult to modify for direct drive. I thought about getting the CR-6 SE on the kickstarter, but in comparison to my modified Ender 3, it would be a downgrade. On the glass bed: I got the original Creality micro-porous glass bed immediately with my Ender 3. It worked very well with decent adhesion. Prints could be removed without much force and would pop off on their own when the bed cooled down. Over time though, the adhesion got worse and worse (probably all the fingerprints and dust) until I decided to give it a good cleaning with 99.9 Isopropanol. Now the adhesion is amazing (I print most stuff without any brim now), but prints are very difficult to remove even after the bed cooled down.

Thanks for the video, I saw this but I’m honestly happy with my modded cr-10s and mostly stock ender 3 I have. Keep up the good work.

i backed on kick starter it now comes standard with a 32 bit board. imgot at 319. seams like a great improvement lors to like.

You're crazy the silent tmc drivers are my favourite feature of this printer.

well, every maker has different needs. for me this machine is literally 100% with not 1 dlaw or thing i would change.

A much needed review with a more critical spin. The CR-6 is certainly going to be a good machine but it does feel over hyped with the amount the kickstarter has raised. Frankly, I am really impressed they could get the price so low on kickstarter with kickstarter's 10% cut and shipping/certification fees. They are probably selling a lot of the machines for little profit and maybe even a loss.

Thanks for the video! English language tip: "Subject to change" is a common phrase, but "Object to change" is not something people say and it doesn't really make sense. Also I really love your videos where you do DOE and print a bunch of stuff with different settings and compare. I have an idea for that kind of video: retraction settings. I am having a hard time understanding the interaction between retraction distance and speed and how it affects stringing and print time. My assumption would be that longer retraction distance provides for less stringing at the expense of longer print times. I would also assume that faster retraction speed would lead to less stringing AND increase printing speed. Based on my observations on my stock ender 3 both of these assumptions don't seem to hold up consistently. Sometimes increasing retraction distance seems to make no difference with stringing, sometimes increasing speed makes stringing worse. If you could do some testing and talk about the underlying mechanics of retraction settings, and also how they differ based on bowden/direct extruders, that would be a super helpful video. Thanks again for the great content!

Nice Lathe in the background Stefan! 👏😎 waiting to see some videos about it 😉

You are absolutely right about the power supply. The specification of the one available online is that it may not be installed enclosed, within the EU (same company´s RSP model seems to be abel to have in a encloser). And not used with continuous load above 75w = not to be in a 3D printer with heatbed. Will probably get worse with time when dust is sucked in and get it warmer.

I dont think you should be blaming creality for the noisy psu fan - maybe meanwell could put a quieter one in at manufacture? I cant think of better solution except maybe swap for a noctua fan or similiar...bit more expensive but worth it for the peace!

As someone just getting into 3D printing, I chose to back this Kickstarter for the mere fact of the auto bed leveling setup. I’ve heard of many frustrations coming from the leveling setup from friends of mine that I just wanted an out of the box solution to get me going. While I know there will be some fiddling with settings, removing one possible point of error is a huge plus. I’m looking forward to receiving mine!

As a first time 3d printing noob, I have found that this is perfectly good for me as a beginner. I backed it and just received it yesterday, easy to assemble and get those first prints out. I am really happy with it, I'm sure if I continue to get deeper into this, I'll be a bit more discerning for my next printer.

If "over hyped" just means loud and no included pei sheet then almost every printer is over hyped IMO. I'm one of the people who got an ender 3 with big ambitions and ended up learning how to trouble shoot it for 2 years almost. It still gives my trouble out of nowhere. If this machine works without me having to sacrifice 1/2 as much time and frustration as my ender 3, I'd have paid full price for it. I am not going to lie, I'm giggling at how you set the video up to be critical, but the summary of your video is: "it's literally perfect for a hobbyist or beginner, all the features are great, but it's loud." That's not too critical, haha. The last review I watched had a couple failures right off the bat and had some issue with the prints stalling

Mine arrived yesterday. Compare to my ender 3, this is much more easier to setup, much and actually prints without any issues that I had with ender 3 such as extruder and bed leveling.

I'd completely comfortable to buy it with that price. Dual Z, 32bit board with silence stepper driver, "skookum" main body (again, X gantry is supported with dual z-rod, so no sagging, no fussy after hundred hours of printing), innovative ABL built-in, fast release bed @@ but I agree on the fan noise, Creality should spend a couple more bucks to have silence fans like noctune (but then, the price will even be higher than it's right now). This printer open the opportunity of just buying the printer then dial-in the setting for different filament, then click and wait, no more fussy with the machine itself. In my opinion, this printer is still in the category of low-cost, and had stepped 1 step further into the PlugnPlay future

The cr10 has a bigger volume, but honestly width and depth are more important than hight in most cases. So the fact that it is 35x35 instead of 30x30 gives you more usable space in my opinion. If I would have the choice just between the two build volumes I would chose the one of the cr6.

Finally a good honest review. Others didn't do a good job of a reviewing it.

End users are beta testers. This unit simply puts several community upgrades on an Ender 3.

I would like to see someone make a upgrade kit for the Ender 3 for this type of bed leveling system. I really like the looks of how this carriage hot-end works. I personally think it would be a good upgrade to add to the Ender 3 and Pro.

Not to pick on you, but I watch these reviews(and yours was very good) and I always hear from everyone about the noise these printers make. You're not supposed to be sitting next to it while it's printing, unless you don't have faith in it. I've had one problem so far while 3D printing with my Printrbot Simple Metal which is now not working due to my violent nature and lack of patience. I was printing with ABS and didn't realize it's problems with needing an enclosure to keep heat in and cause it not to delaminate. I'm still new to this, as I don't print a lot but just now at the age of 51 am I starting to design and print stuff. You guys reviewing these 3D printers are very knowledgeable and a big help to us in, and just getting into the hobby/profession. Keep up the good work but we really shouldn't be focusing on whether a machine is super quiet or not, so long as it works and does what it should. Thank You for your review.

I got in on the earlybird Kickstarter price. I'm hoping for great things out of it. I have two stock Ender 3 printers right now. This is a considerable step up I think. The noise is not an issue. I have my printers in a environment that has a high noise level already. I have purchased a EBoard and a EZABL for one of the Ender 3's Hope to install and upgrade them soon.

I backed it because as my first printer I felt like it was a consolidation of years of tinkering and incremental upgrades and updates. Now that I have it on my bench I'm really happy with it. Setup and printing well with minimal fuss. Also, after watching your $2 printer upgrade (foam + concrete slab) I was prepared for the worst... But the printer is so quiet I have it next to me on my desk and don't even notice it printing. I don't have such fan noise with the power-supply, but maybe it just hasn't kicked in for me yet

Those terminal blocks on the motherboard at 5:20 make me want to rip my own eyes out

I backed it and the self leveling was the key! I only have 1 other UV resin printer

Coming from an Anet A8, I just found his critical points being nitpicky, but oh well to each his own. 😅

I just received my printer from the Kickstarter, and I am, overall, satisfied and not disappointed. I also wish the power supply was quieter, but I was planning on sticking it in my workshop anyway. My biggest gripe is filament loading. Why did no one consider putting a tube between the sensor and the motor so you don't have to stick your finger in there and lift the filament a little to get it to go into that little hole? Overall I'm happy though.

Even though I believe you are being slightly over critical the review is very well done! Thank you for being honest and pointing out the pro's and con's of the printer. Overall it appears to print very well, who would be disappointed by its performance? Have a most awesome day!

Well, products like 3D printers we already know will be worked on and modified by the end user. So when I want to compare or complain about something I look to see if it's something that could be easily modified by the end user if they desired it, or if it's something outside the realm of what you would expect. Something like that print nozzle having an integrated strain gauge, is an example of something you cannot modify or easily retrofit without a whole ton of work. Something like a flexible print bed, can easily be replaced... Especially with how easy it is to re-level the bed. So I would not call it something worth complaining about. The same goes for the fan in the meanwell. Even though they are name brand power supplies the fans they use are subject to Chinese quality control. So they might not all be loud, but if you ever get a really loud fan.. just take it out, and replace it with a silent one. I'd really like to see your next video be an example of adding a flexible print bed and replacing the fan... With the final shot being it printing in your office instead of your basement.

I didn't back this project on kick starter as my stock enter 3 pro upgrades bl touch + skr e3 mini + TFT 3.5 + spring pei sheet is about the price this machine was on kick starter. I find my custom solution to be much better especially the pei steel sheet which this machine doesn't offer. Upgrade cost below Original Bl Touch $34 Skr e3 mini 1.2 $28 TFT 3.5 $30 Double-Sided PEI $28 =================== Total $120

I completely agree about the power supply fan, it's the number 1 reason I bought my Genius (which is very similar to the CR-6 SE) - no fan in the PSU & mains powered bed. It's super quiet.

04:15 bed -> If you are having issues removing from this Anycubic Ultrabase clone they either made it wrong or more likely you are doing something wrong, such as not waiting for the bed to cool down. Once it cools down typically prints just pop-off. If not, you can dirty it up a little bit or increase bed temp during printing.

Regarding CE compliance, since the end-device will need to be tested again for all EMC requirements, if Creality passed these tests, they are OK (assuming they used a credible lab). Although advisable, separate components do not (necessarily) have to meet the CE requirements. On the other hand since this is the main power supply It would be unlikely the end-device harmonics would be significantly different from the separate power supply itself, also since the heating is a nice resistive load. Anyway, Meanwell only makes the statement regarding EMC, fortunately not for safety.

honestly, the artillery sidewinder x1 is a much more appealing option in my oppinion. its direct drive extrude so you can print almost every flexible filament (i had some problems with the really soft stuff) really quiet (its in my bedroom and i can sleep while its printing, but i might just be wierd XD) and i bought it for 320€. Print quality is top, the one downside is that the filament holder is crap. It messes up the printing quality cause the z rails start to vibrate cause of the weight that is ontop. If you fix that with either additional bracing or relocating the filament its an awesome printer.

I bought a Genius for 275€.. you get an AC heat bed, direct extruder, dual z motors, touchscreen and cnc‘d v slot profiles. It’s not a perfect machine, but worth the money compared to an ender, that you need to upgrade. And it’s super quiet. Only „missing“ things are.. 32 bit, removable bed plate and auto leveling (a connector for the touch probe is already there). I don’t see the big gamechanger with the CR-6.

I backed it and cannot wait until October to have it printing next to my A8 and Ender-3. I think it has vast improvements over other printers and I'm glad I got it for the price I did. I'm not sure my wife would have been fine with it at their intended retail price.

Finally an honest review on this one. :)

I have to say i don't think the hype was deserved because they never seam to add that last little bit to round out the printer.

For a silent power supply, they should have gotten the Mean Well UHP-350-24. But i guess that is a bit pricey for a budget printer, if you compare it to the LRS-350-24. The UHP is about 2x as expensive at mouser. The Problem that they don't manage the 61000-3-2 EMC tests just shows that they saved some more money on that LRS series. The passive UHP-Series has 61000-3-2 listed in it's certificates. The problem with a passive PSU is that you need to mount it in a way that actually allows passive airflow, so just trying a 1:1 replacement might not work, and i'm pretty sure $$ was the number one concern at creality, so they got the cheapest, noisy option designed in, as usual.

It's overhyped. But some people have such bad machines, they are desperate for new printers, for their ultimate solution 😂 Recently I have bought a used JGAurora and it was modded to death, literally. Basically everything you can do wrong has been done on it. One stepper driver had a vref of 1.72V on a TMC2208. Now down to 0.7v or so. Some people watch too many KZfaqrs that have no idea what they are doing and slowly worsen their machine until it's useless. A lead screw was totally bent. The lead screw was mounted with PLA printed stepper motor connectors. The brass mountings for the lead screw were totally worn out. Firmware messed up. The glass plate was freely moving around on the heat plate because the owner thought he could remove and cool down the glass plate so easily. It had room to move around in the printed corners/brackets ....ugh!!

Thank god they're finally doing tmc2209, I hated how 2208's couldn't handle linear advance and then subsequently being the most popular chip on the market.

Hi Stefan, almost backed it, but with the latest kickstarter price and the high transport fee on top I finally refused. My CR-10 is not as modern but the difference does not justify the price tag for me. Thank you for the honest review.

Finally a dual z-axis drive! 😎

I think the most important upgrade to any 3D printer is CNC Kitchen..I love your videos Stefan

I am brand new to the world of 3d printing and backed this mainly due to the self leveling feature. I was introduced to the 3d printing world by a co-worker literally 3 days before the campaign ended, so had no clue about whether it was overhyped or not. I did think it was interesting that they did a kickstarter, since they are an established company, but I felt like there was also less risk involved, since I'd also never backed a kickstarter campaign before.

If there is just one thing that improves any printer and that is a dual Z axis screw drive......that will ensure 100% that the X axis crossbeam will remain square and not sag at the far right side due to drag from the right hand side bearing block or increased weight from direct drive filament feeders. I have the Ender 3 Pro and am going to fit a dual Z axis screw drive......but only after I've messed with a 3018 CNC mill upgrade I've just bought........now I realise I need the 3D printer to make parts for the mill upgrade too.

I did not back the kickstarter... I am happy with my particular ender 3 build which is less expensive and has all of the functionality plus a flexible steel magnetic bed for less (SKR e3 Mini, tft3.5 e3, EZABL Pro, a metal extruder with an aluminum wheel to load and unload filament, and a few more things). I have 4 configured this way and they vary in age from 2 years old to 6 months. They have been upgraded along the way to the current setup... the latest was built with all of the addons though at a cost of just over $350 (US)... Even on my oldest E3, I have only had to replace fans and consumables (a nozzle, print stickers, ptfe tubes) and they printed non-stop for months making PPE until recently. I don't like the nozzle strain gauge for bed leveling because it requires you level with your nozzle cold so you don't damage the print surface, while the other ABL systems can withstand a warm bed and hot nozzle. Just one opinion though... I do like the milled extrusion idea though... it would aid a new builder in constructing the machine.

Good review that exposes the minimum that Creality will do for a new product. 90% there indeed.

Overhyped? Perhaps. At the Kickstarter price it’s a very good deal auto level and filament sensor. Unhappy about the fan noise and seeing the other beta units none of them appeared to be loud so perhaps yours is faulty? I am sure if the others got printers where the fans were as loud as you say they would certainly have mentioned it. I agree the 32 bit board doesn’t really mean anything but all your prints worked with different materials and you admitted that yourself your profile isn’t perfect so I do feel you were a bit harsh on it. But we will see, if it is as loud as you say on the final units a lot of people will be very unhappy You want things like an all metal hotend at this price point? How many $400 printers do you know that comes with that and the Prusa you compare it to is twice the price you know. If you want to compare it to something you really should compare it to something at the same price. I’ve watched the other reviews and they too have mentioned that for a lot less you can get the likes of an Ender 3 or the mk2 Ender 3 and there’s another one coming as well but don’t remember the model. Nice review but I personally think it wasn’t very balanced considering the price, the features the print quality and all the bits you did like. As for it being overhyped, that was probably their marketing plan. Anyway thanks for the review.

I backed it for my first 3D printer and grabbed it at the early bird price. I liked the auto bed leveling and glass build plate as standard and due the big Ender 3 community responses, expect plenty of mods and upgrades in the near future for teh CR-6 as well.

Hi, at 6:13 something disturbing. That fat red wire (I'm guessing it is the supply for the heated bed) is very close to the screw hole for the cover. Too close. Some people may end up buying one of these with the screw fouling that wire. I thought we were moving away from fire hazards in the 3D world. Also, how long is that sticky tape going to stay stuck? Bad wiring practice for such a well known company. Also just noticed the main bundle of wires (where they drop through a cutout in the frame) though they are wrapped are passing over rough cut aluminium with a clearly sharp edge - they'll spend their life vibrating against that and eventually chaff through. Very poor construction.

Ender 3 owner here I'll probably just stick with that. I bought the glass plate but I didn't like it because I was constantly having to readjust and actually cut the adjustment screws to makeup for the height difference. I probably have bought four sets of screws already. Also my build plate has come loose I guess it was just glued on and the Heat from the quote-unquote heatbed melted the glue. But by far my biggest problem with it is bed leveling then I will just be either continuing to Frankenstein my original one or buying a new Ender 3 with a bed leveler.

2:41 Using the nozzle’s tip and a strain sensor seems like a great idea to help level the bed, but it’s not. The last time I checked, just before the print is to start, there always seems to be a tiny bit of hard or semi melted filament stuck on the end of the nozzle. If it’s not cleaned off BEFORE the nozzle is used to help level the bed, that extra filament stuck on the end of the nozzle will screw up the nozzle/bed touch, thus completely throwing off the bed levelling feature. That’s why a separate BL touch sensor is a much better option (nothing to get in the way of the sensor while measuring the bed’s surface). Also, bed levelling should be performed while the bed is at printing temp (warm to hot depending on what you have it set to). Allowing the bed to heat up prior to measuring its surface level, will allow the bed to “settle”. If the nozzle is already hot when this levelling happens, I hope you guys enjoy a bunch of little melted filament blobs all over the bed, which could potentially get in the way when a print is started and the nozzle passes over those same bed points again while printing. So just use the hot end while it is cold you say? Just re-read the first part of my comment about unmelted filament on the nozzle tip while trying to level the bed with it.

Artillery Sindewinder X1 also uses milled pockets for its construction. Overall I don't know what I should think about this new printer, it has some good build in features, but it still looks like it features a lot of Crealities typical shortcomings. Then again, I've said the same about Prusa Printers, they have some nice features and "inventions" but I really dislike their basic construction. ("inventions" due to the "Prusa calls my mod his own idea" drama all over the web)

I sleep with a noctua + 5010 modded Ender 3 Pro on my bedside table. All I do is set the fan speed to 30% and I can sleep comfortably next to it while retaining great part cooling. There is also a passive grill on thingiverse you can print for the meanwell power supply which works nicely but I don't know how well it would work with the psu on the bottom of the printer.

The printer looks good, I think if you got in at the flash sale price it seems like a very good value. I personally dont have an issue with the loud PSU, but the filament sensor/extruder could have been aligned better or made into a single unit.

Just got mine last night and can't wait to unbox and set it up!

I'm printing my second file from the SD card. so far the prints have been very good. I did have a problem with the extruder and replaced it with a SEEMe CNC that i had laying around.

You forgot to mention it comes with dual-Z. I backed it at $319, in large part due to the dual-Z, touch LCD and auto bed leveling. The CR-6 SE will replace my slightly modded Ender 3 that I was about to add dual-z to.

I saw the CNC milled locations first with Original Tevo company (flash etc..) I have been asking creality to do this for 2 years. it fixes so many problems (if the QC is done well) The 2209's were end user requested. IE silly. they only did it because people asked for it. The PSU fan is a known issue with meanwell. the good news is its under $10 to replace that 60x60x10mm 12v (yes 12v) fan with something quieter.

Definitely didn’t think this was “overhyped” at all.

Everyone: Upgrading the hell out of ender 3. Creality: I'm gonna do what's called pro gamer move. Steal technique activate!

There isn't really a good, slim and passive PSUs in MeanWell's stock power supply lineup. The next thing would be the size of a large-ish brick and it would weight a ton. And the passive ones topped out at around 350-400W last time I checked. That's at least what I deciphered from their lineup last time (about a year ago) I checked.

Bed heat up time is irrelevant if the bed heating pattern is not tested with a thermal cam. On my Ender 5 Pro the sensor says the bed has reached target temperature (80°C for PETG in my example), but only a part of the Bed is really heated up - about 30% of the bed surface was up to 15°C cooler even after 20 minutes of heating.

Hey CNC Kitchen, any chance you’ve tried out the Anycubic Vyper? I’d be very curious what you thought, as your reviews are always balanced and honest.

4.4mil for a commercial company to build another average printer. People just can't burn money fast enough.

I backed one, largely to replace my aging Printrbot Simple Metal, which I've modded and frankly, without mucking about with the firmware and making an adapter for the hotend, is at the end of the line. I'll agree that it's probably overhyped. The issues described, I feel are more quirks than show stoppers. The fan noise in the PSU is fixable via a mod/hack, the ABL issues requiring a clean nozzle is possibly a process change (i.e., make sure the nozzle is clean prior to leveling), making mods to the bed surface is a time-honored tradition in this hobby, and the filament feed system is probably also fixable via a mod as well. This will be my first bowden fed printer (everything else I've dealt with has been direct drive), so I expect I'll have some learning curves with it.

Taking away the leveling screws entirely was a bad choice in my opinion. I'd love to see actual automatic leveling/squaring of beds instead of what we have now: software compensation of unlevel beds. Even with a sensor manual leveling is necessary to a certain degree. Though I must admit I like the idea of using load sensors, I have come a full circle with my opinion on automatic level-sensors. When I was still inexperienced they were great and felt like they took much work from me. Fast forward a few years, I had quite some headaches with all kinds of sensors: capacitive, BL-touch, piezo - I tried them all, and all failed after a while or were not reliable enough for day to day prints; they're just not worth the (sometimes) ridiculous prices. Ruined a few bed surfaces due to level sensors going bad and had way too many failed prints due too them. I'm now back to sensorless leveing for almost all my printers. I can level a bed in 5 min when completly unleveled or a minute or two for readjusting after I notice inconsistencies during the first layer. And even that takes a few months on my work-horse ender 3 which has a magnetic printing surface. I comparison a level sensor takes a minute each print. I guess a good manually leveled bed in combination with a sensor can even out some flatness issues of the beds, but the quality of beds has ramped up in the last few years, so I don't see that beeing a huge issue anymore.