Good luck! Thanks for watching, the worst that can happen is the tractor will still be broken..lol.

@@blackwellz717 Thank you kindly Sir! Check out my other Cub videos!

Thank you for watching Jason, check out my other Cub and DIY videos.

You Da Man! So glad to help out. Thanks for watching. I have other CC videos on my channel ( do you know where your fuse is?) lol. I have to admit after 14 years my CC is with a new family. Funny story, as I was driving to his trailer to load it the drive belt broke. It took as an hour to wench it aboard. I replaced it with this. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hbKcprd3rpjGh6c.html

Thanks for watching Chris, I was not about to buy a compressor and impact wrench either!

You are correct.

@@mark8850 Just bend the tabs at bottom. It go right in. And also its its best to take 4 screws out on top and hold the big nut so it want turn instead of removing plug an sticking something in the engine

Ronald Hoel that’s what I did.

+educator3D That is a very good tip, my first attempt at this repair was stymied for many days until I found that trick ( not on youtube )

+Kevin Crummie Thank you Kevin. We are trying hard to heal, but it is really slow going. The Pirates are off to a great start, the Penguins are headed for the playoffs so we have plenty of diversions!

Thank you for watching Charles, I appreciate your feedback! Check out my other Cub and DIY videos, even a winery tour!

Thank goodness!

+John Souders I think my short belt life might be attributed to the hills I mow and that I have towed a full sized lawn roller with it many times. GO PENS!!

I here ya about that rust, that is what I had the first time also. It should not be that hard!! Thanks for watching. Lots more Cub Cadet vids on my channel.

Thank you sir!! I am a new subscriber to your channel, so I will check them out. Thanks again!!

Pittsburgh Pap about the rust!! I agree. Just glad I didn’t take it to the shop. My local Howard Bros got me for $187 to change out the belt on my cub cadet walk behind, I got 2 cuts before it shredded off. I took it back and they told me that my deck was warped, but they would gladly replace it for $586.00 I say again, thanks for helping do the work myself.

I agree!

There are alternative methods. Your suggestion is a good one !

Just did it and it worked a treat.

Fantastic! I did not record it but my tension spring is getting weak or my current belt is stretching. I was getting some slip. About 1" from the rear end of the spring is a hole in the frame. I removed belt from the middle idle wheel for slack, then removed the spring, attached to the further hole, and back to the inboard arm last, then put the belt over the idle wheel again. The spring and belt are much tighter now. Handy pre-made hole in the frame. I did the same on my deck belt, there is a square hole in the tension arm, I dropped a bolt-nut in it for a post and stretched the spring to it, much tighter now!

Good eye! Most would never consider looking for that.

Best method and the most correct method, I don't ever see putting anything in that cylinder that doesn't belong there. Even a small piece of anything left behind can damage the engine. Wayne is right on target.

Sorry, I gave the machine and owners manual away. Go to cub website the info is there.

Thanks for watching Russell. I have to say this from memory I hope it's correct. If there is a short side to the center post of the pulley you want that next to the engine (high up the shaft). You want the belt groove as close to the engine as possible. If there is a longer side that will face down the shaft. If both sides of shaft are equal length you will have to test fit for the highest groove position. If you get it wrong the belt will ride on the leading edge of the steering plate and quickly fray. Check that edge before attaching clutch, there has to be max clearance. Good luck, I wish I had a better memory!

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAPThanks forgetting back to me, I've called cub cadet tech. service dept. and they were no help so they gave me a list of 7 auth. service repair shops and called all those, I ended up with 3 telling me the keyed part of the pulley goes up and 3 telling me down and 1 saying I don't know, I've watched probably 20 videos trying to see the pulley being taken off the shaft and yet to find one, yours was the only one that mentioned the pulley fell off and you have to figure out which side goes up, I'll try it with the short end closest to the motor, thanks again for your help.

@@russell4529 I just remembered: If you remember about how many turns it took to get the bolt out of the shaft, or look at the wear marks on threads that will be how far it will go back on if you have the pulley correct. I do remember once I had it on upside down and the bolt would not screw in as far as it should have.

that's a great idea but the bolt was trashed after I tried using a 3 prong puller and after that didn't work I drilled 2 holes in the pulley and made a homemade pulley to try to get it off, i'll eventually figure it out.

At 12:15 in the video I explain how to hold the motor from turning so a wrench can loosen the shaft bolt. Further in the video It explains how to route the belt step by step. Thanks for watching, good luck! The hardest part is getting the belt pulley an inch down the shaft so the belt will clear the frame tabs. I will say other owners have raised the motor to take the front of the belt on and off but I am not familiar with that method. However if your pulley is rusted in place lifting the engine may be the easiest method, once raised you can mount the belt and try threading it back thru to fan drive pulley. Others have just wacked-hacked the frame tabs off for belt clearance.

a vise grip on the pulley works

Put the wrench back on the bolt holding the clutch on and easy turn towards loosen to get the motor to turn but not the bolt. Or, take the plastic mesh top off the motor and turn the big nut to loosen compacted rope. The piston is pinching it but only need to move a fraction to allow removal.

Thanks for the help. I'll be out of town for a few days, but I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP Don't put nothing in your engine. there is nut on top of engine to hold it. Geez

at 3:09 in this video dead center of the screen is a handle, pull up on it.

I No longer recall, but in my other video I state that the end with the full key slot faces the ground, but I can not verify that is correct. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oKl6ibqFtJ21nKs.html&lc=UgzPsXonc4UcoGAnEgZ4AaABAg

You must verify the pulley is in the highest position, as close to the engine as possible.

At around 14:40 in the video it shows where and how to "tap" the top of the clutch. I emphasize "tap". The top of the clutch is pretty sturdy so tapping should not damage it. A piece of 1/2 wooden dowel rod might suffice for a stiffer banging on the top without damage. I found that the force required is in direct proportion to the amount of corrosion on your PTO shaft. Spray PB blaster on any area of the shaft you can get to.

Thanks for the advise. I've tinkered with lots of things but not with this in particular. Its simple but a pain. I will attempt again using your tips. Thanks and maybe I will have a better outcome this go around.

Got the clutch removed soaking it with WD40 and tapping with driver and hammer. Had to bend the tabs back to get the new belt on though. But job done and up and running once more. Thanks for the video.

Yaaaay!

I agree, as I show in the video they are available on Ebay for $15 total shipped to your house. And always use KEVLAR!

+Todd Crawford If your lucky and your pulley will slide. But if it is corroded in place you have BIG problems.

Takes quite a while with a camera in one hand... lol

Any secrets to share about the front pulley and dropping it? The drive belt shredded on my LT1050 last week and I am about to undertake the challenge to replace it.

Yes, but smaller model and a bigger owner.. lol.

Yes, I learned later you can remove loosen engine mounting bolts slide the engine to the rear, slip on the belt, slide engine to the original position, retighten, then wind through the tention pulleys. The clutch still has to be dropped due to the cable.

There are other ideas in the comment section that are helpful, such as just bending the ears at the pulley, disconnecting the clutch wire instead of dropping it and such. Check your belt tension spring is still strong.

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP thanks for tips. My belt looks to be in good shape even tho its 12 years old. The tractor speed has been dropping over the years and recently barely moved. I put some belt dressing on the drive belt and I now have decent speed. I figure the belt has either stretched or as you suggested the tensioner spring is weak. Or maybe both. Not looking forward to tackling this project but at least I know what needs to be done. Thanks again.

Look for a new spot to stretch the spring to, belt slippage will destroy it.

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAPthanks, I hadn't thought of doing that, figured I'd just buy a new one along with a new belt.

No way, with the hydro still engaged it would be impossible to push up the hill. I tried, it would not budge. On a cement floor it will move slowly, but that is why the disconnect exists.