Just wanted to share this for others who just might want the o rings. I used a caliper to measure the dimension's of the slots and the o rings themselves. Finally determined what material they might be, I used nitrile. Used the proper silicone lube and got it working. Thanks a million for your vid. Actually 345 CAD that's how much I saved after your vid gave me the idea to wrestle with the part. BTW got parts on Amazon

This is exactly what I was looking for to help me! I like the speed you performed the rebuild. I had to pause to caught up which is better than waiting for the video to explain. Keep up the good work.

One of the best How to videos I have seen. Clearly the repair guy is an expert. Thanks

Great video, my local Culligan retailer supplied parts for about $80. Time will tell if it fixed my error issues. thanks for the video.

Absolutely excellent video..... The local Culligan guys are missing in action. You helped me solve my problem. Many thanks!!!

The best I have ever seen. Very clear Thanks & God Bless U

One helpful tip: when putting the large white nylon cam back in place, make sure the knob on top of the brine piston is fitted into the groove on he underside of the cam or the cam will jam when you power it back up and give you an E1 error message

The instructions included with the rebuild kit for my medalist 8 were lack luster at best. This video definitely helped and I saved $240 in about 30 min of work. My local Culligan store sold me the parts no problem.

Thank you ! this helped me a lot to correct an error E3. seized piston.

Wanted to send my sincere thanks for your video! I was able to fix my softener with your help! (Note to future viewers: make sure the switches, little grey push bottons on switch, are in contact with cam shaft.) 😊

For those DIYers wanting to fix their culligan softener following this video, let me give you some stumbling blocks I ran into that could save you alot of time and possibly a service call. The guy is pretty thorough in the video but he runs through pretty quickly and if you're unfamiliar with these units like most people are that aren't culligan men/women, you may not fully understand what he's disconnecting and reconnecting. There's another comment that explains the need to position the brine piston up under the lip of the nylon cam. I did not do this and the unit locked up so I had to completely disassemble it again and realign the brine piston so the raised area on the top of the piston is inserted into the channel on the underside of that cam. Another bugaboo I ran into was when reconnecting the scotch yoke. I didnt realize the main piston coming out of the seal pack needed to seat into the end of the scotch yoke, so much to my dismay, I got through the entire seal pack replacement, spent $80 on the part, when to power the unit on and remove the bypass and I had the same constant draining sound. So in frustration I gave up for the day, came back to look at it again the next day and realized the main piston was not even seated in the end of the scotch yoke. I made the necessary adjustment and low and behold the problem was fixed! Glorious soft water again. 😁

Exactly the video I needed to see, thank you for posting! Having gone through the rebuild myself now, my helpful hint would be that if you cannot get the seal pack out (1:43) or if you manage to snap the front portion of it off trying to get it out of the valve body (lol), you can disconnect the entire media tank from the plumbing in the back quite easily, rotate the tank 180 degrees to access the back side, remove the cap on the backside of the valve body and then use something like the plastic handle of a screwdriver and hammer to drive the seal pack out the front side of the valve body. If thats confusing you can look up a product manual on the Culligan website and look at the exploded parts view, should help explain what I mean.

Exactly what I was looking for. Fast and efficient video. Not sure what people are talking about regarding Culligan not selling parts, my local dealer has no issue selling me parts and even offers advice on replacement.

Always nice to see how fast a pro, who has done the same task hundreds of times, can perform.

My Silver Edition was leaking water to the drain hose. This video made it clear what I needed to obtain and how to install it. My Culligan dealer sold the parts and included some silicone for the O rings. $89 is a lot for a few plastic and rubber parts but far less than a service call. The pace on this video is perfect and the description of each step makes a great tutorial. Thank you! Excellent job.

Thank you for this video it was very helpful In directing me how to replace the seal pack. However I need HELP! After replacing the seal pack the water has not been soft enough. And I can’t figure it out. Do you have any thoughts?

Great video. My softener seem to be slowly filling water back into the brine tank when sitting idle. This then raises the float valve to it's top position and then it gets stuck because of the pressure. Im guessing this has something to do with the brine piston letting water through to the brine refill tube. Is there a fix for this without having to shell out a couple hundred for new parts? I'm thinking about taking the brine piston out and inspecting it and making sure there is nothing blocking it from closing off properly.

Should it be comfortable to go back when the pistons are pressed in

This is a terrific video for what it is intended, no question. I am looking for how to replace the seal at the control head/resin tank connection. Have been unable to find any instructions for that. Any suggestions??? (I mean, besides calling Culligan :-) )

How many parts did you replaced ? And how often need those parts ? And why did you replaced computer board? Thanks

Could you please explain if it's possible the last parts setting , all those numbers an why each of those numbers? Thanks

Anyone have info on the control valve? I need to get to it and clean it out. Thanks

Another tip that you may want to check before shelling out the money for the seal pack part. the lower screws that hold the scotch yoke in place may loosen over time. if the scotch yoke becomes loose or unsecured on one side, the seal pack piston can wiggle free of the scotch yoke and it will cause an E3 error message and the unit will continuosly drain. so verify the piston is seated in the very back of the yoke assembly first!

My brine tank is full of water. Tried cleaning out the tank of all the mud from years. No change. After the first cycle the water is above salt again. Salt level does not make a difference. Tried undoing the in/out water to the tank and blowing air through it. Seems to be clear - water shoots out the thicker black hose area I disconnected the one with U-shaped pin. So I don't know if the problem is inside the machine. The float seems to be moving freely. I tried running the regen on 2nd part of cycle to see if it draws water from a bucket - and it does. So I have no idea why it won't draw the water from the brink tank. It obvious is doing so a little, but not enough. Water is getting harder. Any insights would be most appreciated!

Perfect video but how I know the capacity is 1500 gallons in this case please

Mine was running a half a stream of water out the drain pipe after the end of regeneration. During service. I bought a parts kit for the front not the top piece (I just cleaned up the screen on that). Everything went pretty well except mine needed a little more cleaning. Now it seems to be working fine. I inspected the old parts expecting to find damage to the o-rings or something but couldn't find anything?? My question is. Is it possible/probable that there was a foreign object in one of the o-rings letting water bypass? All the old parts looked perfect except for the screens needing cleaned, and that was easy. The original parts are about 10 yrs old with the well water having coal sediment (I think) going through a filter first. Any ideas or comments (especially from a technician) ?

Question Rebuild kit number ?

Why we cannot get this rebuilt kit online. Why Why have to go to my Culligan local store

Yes but what do you do if the valve is stuck and won’t come out?

I have a error 2. What do i need to do?

Hi there, my board keeps saying “eCC0” Do you know what that means? Thank you

where would by this kit? look just like mine.

Who can I call to get an estimate for this type of thing?

How do I get a new motherboard

Which silicone grease brand do you recommend for this? Food grade?

Why no time clock backup?

can you even get parts for these? if so, WHERE?

How often have you seen anE2 error and have the motor seize up on this type of device? This happened on my tannin filtration system

That's awesome! But if we are unable to purchase the parts, what good is the video? Culligan wants to do the work and will not sell the parts....

only one suggestion. might be beneficial to remove the board and place far away. lol when reusing. one drop sometimes can fry those boards.

My water smells like eggs and I just bought what they said I needed for over $3,500 . My water is worse now than before. There’s a error code 103. We called yesterday and they said they can’t come out until Monday. It’s not the first time we have called. Anyone know how I can fix it? Thanks

Can you please provide kit part number and where you purchased this part. Thanks,

can one get just the orings for the plunger pack?

Part # For Seal Kit, 01-0162-67, everything you see except the PC Board. Normally

Why replace the board? Nothing wrong with it, and it’s a $200 part.

It will never stop blowing my mind that there's people that have water softeners installed OUTSIDE of their house. I don't care if some machines are built for it. It's still nuts. These hideous (but vital and hardworking) machines belong in a utility closet or basement where they're dry, safe and out of sight

How much would this service cost?

I had this thing, it never worked properly since day one, horrible product, company & service. Threw it in the trash, replaced it for a system at half the price, and guess what? It actually works. Hope they go bankrupt

the new seal packs with black inner seals instead of white teflon (original) are junk, so don't buy if black they last maybe 2 years for what they charge, a true ripoff.

Lo