Since i've been following your advice of not over-tightening, i haven't had the problem anymore. Thanks.

Just crack open a faucet After supply is shut off.. that's his issue with getting it loose.. maybe you tight as well who knows

A suggestion a saw on another video was to place a piece vertically across the top of the housing down to the housing. Score the tape in the middle. When you reinstall the housing you can line the tape up to ensure you're not over tightening. You could probably do this with a marker as well. Not sure if it's fool proof but it can guide you when tightening the housing.

Yes, we had a similar problem with the tightening of filter covers. Once we hand tightened them it was much better. Good call, @Gary Young.

Except he didn't need the middle bypass because each large filter has one and the spin downs don't really need one

Whenever i have to change a filter, i can open the bypass pipe, and still have water to the house. The bypass is a pipe with a valve that skips all the filters. Here's Richard from Ask This Old House, doing a better job at explaining it than i can : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h7Kda5x5ppqpdok.html

Depending on how bad the water is....1 is probably fine.

I don't see the exact posting, but they were these: amzn.to/3ypHWnD But they were something like a 12 pack for $7 each

Yes, i agree. Someone wrote a similar comment and since i've stopped tightening down the housing so much, i haven't had the issue with the o-ring.

2 Pictures: imgur.com/a/E8c7eRB After the pressure tank. The pipe comes in from outside through the foundation then almost immediately tee's down to the pressure tank with big 1" galvanized pipe. Then 2 tee's to the sprinkler system and outside spigots. Then it tee's into the water softner and to the rest of the house. I have the filters right before the softner.

@@DaveWirth Thanks Dave!

Ya every time i change a filter i put this grease on the O-ring. amzn.to/2UlryC8 Not sure it is silicone grease though. Here's one of the comments down at the bottom: Q: What is the lybe made from, silicone, or what...? A: It appears to me to be silicone, but the manufacturer (Haynes) only describes it as: “This sanitary lubricant is highly resistant to separation or bleed. It will not dry or gum on your equipment. This lubricant is NSF rated H1, Kosher Certified, Halal Certified, and the ingredients are FDA approved.”

At the top of the Culligan HD200-C (the one in this video) DOES have a bypass setting so you can replace the filter.

Not bulk, but link in description for individual

They definitely need to be screwed or bolted to a wall. (drywall screws are not enough) Not sure about how well stucco will hold. And yes, to remove the filter you do put quite a bit of torque to tighten the canister. I decided to use the board, and happy i did, it allows me to attach anywhere and not need to drill into the concrete blocks.

@@DaveWirth Wow, Dave, how did you turn those blue handles? I had to return both the 4.5 and 2.5 canisters that I ordered because "working" the handles 15 times to loosen them up before installation--as directed by the instructions--was impossible. My hand was seriously injured trying. One week later and I still can't hold a cup of coffee in that hand. I went with the Culligan GXWH40L instead.

@@mavirek I never turned the blue handles. I tried a couple times, but thought "this plastic is going to break before this thing turns" So i just leave them open and use the butterfly valves i installed on the pipe to turn the water off.

This is the brand i buy from Amazon. They are pretty cheap at around $10 per filter: amzn.to/3ajyLZU If you buy the 12 pack i think they are around $7 per filter.

amzn.to/34ZqZES They used to sell 20 micron filters, now they just have 5 and 1 micron. Still a pretty good deal for these.

Sounds like you have really bad water. I know for rotten egg smells people use an activated carbon filter. I use the 4 filters in this video to remove the rust/iron. Then Reverse Osmosis filters at the sink to remove Arsenic and be able to drink our water. An RO filter removes everything i think.

Here's a link to my more complete video and parts list: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZsV2ktuGsK7bcoU.html List of all the materials & tools i bought: ($400 total) Water Filters: CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo (alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD Culligan RFC-BBSA Premium Filter .......... amzn.to/2urSzY7 iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh iSpring WSP-100 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2JDEqS7 PEX Pipe Material & Tools: Crimping Wrench .......... amzn.to/2X7l4Xc 3/4" PEX Pipe .......... amzn.to/2Xa7NNL PEX Cinch Rings .......... amzn.to/2GdeLLb 90 deg Elbow .......... amzn.to/2UzkIM8 Butterfly Valve .......... amzn.to/2P42oF0 3/4" Tee .......... amzn.to/2UeRq0v PEX to Threaded .......... amzn.to/2VE7Bpy PEX to Threaded 2 .......... amzn.to/2P7eNYI PEX/PVC Pipe Cutter .......... amzn.to/2X0uLGW Pressure Gauge .......... amzn.to/2IspLH7 Depth Gauge .......... amzn.to/2GdfoV3 PTFE Tape .......... amzn.to/2IfBDgk 1/2"Male to 1/4" Female .......... amzn.to/2Igi0EX SharkBite 90 Elbow .......... amzn.to/2X40gQs 3/4" to 3/4" Male ..........amzn.to/2KzcajS

The ones i used to buy - they don't make anymore. They were $7 per filter. Now i buy something similar to this, which are around $10 each: amzn.to/3mOTqwy

I would go with the smallest micron filter you can .... until you notice a decrease in water pressure. Maybe start with a 20, then 10, then 5, then 1 And not sure about the accordion filters, but i know the solid filters are cheaper. Here's the grease i use: amzn.to/3WeuNMV

I use a 5 micron and a case or a box wasn't to expensive at a water fiilter site vs amazon.

I never installed any battery. I think it's just something that's timed to flash after a few months?? My water has so much rust/iron in it that i change it every month. It's nice that the casing is clear, i can visually see when the filter is bad and needs to be changed.

@@DaveWirth Just got the filter I see your saying about lubrication . Were buy the lube and do you have the stock number for O-rings ? Thanks for your help.

@@allenletizia321 Here's the food grade lubricant: amzn.to/2r32ZPo I THINK ???? these are the right O-rings: amzn.to/2NZGeoB I know this is the brand i bought, and i know i bought a 3 pack. But i'm not 100% sure on the size. I thought it was 4.125" but i'm not sure. But i knew i bought them in bulk because they were cheaper. If you can change the filter without removing the O-ring, you're good. Sometimes the O-ring pops out and you can't get it back in because it's expanded in size. That's when i change it.

I'm the same as you. I tried turning them a few times, thought the plastic was going to break, and stopped. So no, i've never shut them either.

Use the opposite end of the filter wrench for leverage.

Since i have to change at least 1 filter per month, i buy the cheapest ones i can find. Usually around $7 per filter. They used to sell these in 20 micron, but i can't find them any more, but these are the 5 micron version: amzn.to/3hkETEl

I bought this: amzn.to/3NZlQjb Haynes Lubri-Film Tube 1 - 1oz. Tube But i think any food grade lubricant will work

There's different "brands" on amazon, but these a 1 type: amzn.to/3Af5cpt

Ya the filter is doing great. No leaks, and i still like the clear plastic to see the condition of the filter. The only bad thing is that i've still had to change the filters ever month. Nothing against the filter itself, more about my bad water. I just can see myself getting really fed-up with changing the filters every month and looking for another solution....

@@DaveWirth Dave-All considered now with what you know, which whole house system would you recommend for well water source with no particular contaminant problem? Thank you.

@@DaveWirth if your flow doesn't slow down don't change the 20 micron every month just because of color.. if it gets the 5 clogged or flow slows too much then change it..I think maybe you're wasting money doing it monthly