Great video! I dig what you’re doing!

Very nice job. You did well. Thanks for sharing. I just subscribed to your channel. Take care, Ed.

thanks for taking the time! .

Insky Cams sells a piston notching tool for about $235 you run through the heave valve guide. They make them in different sizes depending on what size valve you are using

Very good work

There we go...a fixture...PLEASE share that with me and others!!!! Shit, I hope it works..if it does for you, it will for me. I wonder if deburring the edge that was left by cutting would let the flame travel over it smoother and not create a "hot edge" that was prone to burning under nitrous use. Even like a short bevel or "edge break" with scotch Brite or emery cloth or something. I'm just thinking of how that will change the burn characteristics compared to all of the reliefs being even ya know? Anyways..good shit...super intrigued and have saved BOTH of yr videos

How deep did you good? I’m about to do the same to some 302 pistons.

in the future take smaller cuts, higher spindle speed, and set an air nozzle up to keep the chips out of the valve relief and you wont get as much chatter. but more importantly you wont get localized heating that could mess up the heat treat the factory put on the piston bro.

I’ve got the same pistons and I’m going through a similar issue but my pistons are still in the motor. Did you happen to check the piston to make sure it had enough meat to take away and still be structurally good?

I would highly recommend you put a radius on that tool bit! 0.031 you bee happy you did cast piston ! Because it will cause a stress cracking in the corner

Hope all the DIY mods happen before ballancing...lol

Ok...one more question. How did you figure out the correct angle to mount the piston in its vise or holder or whatever in your mill?

I don't have that kind of equipment. I need shadetree results.

Ok, your problem isnt valve wobble and isnt piston rock. If these are your problems, your engine is whooped or your reliefs arent right. At tdc the valve cl crosses more toward the CENTER of the piston vs if the piston is further away from tdc where the valve cl crosses more toward the opposite edge of the piston. At 0, you have WAYYYYYY more than enough radial, because your valve isnt OPEN at tdc. It's either opening or closing depending if int or exh, thus, you dont need 100% radial clearance unless you want to make a 0 interference engine. (Like if you broke a timing chain/belt).. remember, piston cl is not parallel with valve cl. They have different crossing points depending on position.

Get a valve relief cutting tool fond a old junk set of heads take the valve out of it set it down on the motor and use a drill to run the relief cutting tool through the hole in the head for the valve with the piston still in the block

Ok...I am facing a extremely similar situation. Gosh I hope you read this...Alright..my setup and issue..65 comet, 289..don't wanna blow up the 289 so I got a E7 HO engine for 40 bucks. The bores are fantastic, rods, crank everything...perfect.. here's my issue..I'm NOT using the E7 heads, nor the factory cam. I'm getting a new cam, let's use F303 specs as a example. I am also using my world products Windsor Sr heads that have the 2.02 intake valves. I'm going to use the E7 factory forged pistons, rods and crank and just use new, gapped rings for N20 use, new bearings etc, etc. Ok enuff yakking...my question, aren't you concerned much abt taking that much out of each slug and it translating into a balance issue? I'm literally going to do the exact same thing yr doing and I'm curious...any thoughts or concerns abt that? I'm going to be hitting my engine with at minimum 150hp of spray to start and probly working up to 200. For what it's worth I'm going to attempt 1/8 mile hard tire no prep. That's my current jam here in Southern Michigan.

Y cant we get proper pistons to begin with

I doubt they move that much, the valves or pistons

Way to deep on the reliefs. Omg.

You will weaken the piston.