Check out our Felling and Firewood playlist for more videos like this kzfaq.info/sun/PLmYnhJtNUq7fT6tin6FKooDf7_oeqwyex

I could say what I'd do differently, but the important points are that no one got hurt, you learned something without paying for it, and you'll do better next time. You're not commercially logging so it's a cheap lesson. Your honesty is refreshing. Most people would have buried that clip. Thanks for sharing it and reminding us all about the potential hazards.

I like the fact you’re honest. Mistakes is how we all learn. Thanks for sharing yours. I have a lot too!

A small point Brock. It's always a good idea to cut stump spikes straightaway. These things are lethal. Many a woodsman has died after tripping and falling onto these things. They don't take prisoners. I noticed you brushing the sawdust off the stump but not trimming the spikes and on the 2nd tree you were working right next to some nasty spikes. Very dangerous my friend. It only takes a second to cut them off the stump. Apart from that, love the vids!

Thank you for an informative and honest video. I like your "leaner" technique. It's brand new to me.

never owned a tree, never held a chainsaw, but I like watching these videos. I could be the guy picking up the logs and putting them in the trailer... that looks like fun.

People offering Constructive Criticism is the fastest way to learn. Tons of knowledge out there and we all can learn more and get better. Watching Buckin Billy Ray and the Educated Climber, I’ve learned so much and it’s free! Love your humility my friend, got a Sub! Thank you for sharing your videos.

Thanks for showing "your mistake". As often said, we learn more from a mistake then from just being instructed on how to do it right. This example of a thick hinge resulting in a dangerous barber chair should esonate with viewers! Appreciate this

I have cut trees all my life and one thing I have learned from experience is that I've have made plenty of mistakes and luckily I haven't killed myself with those mistakes but I have learned from each one and that's what you are doing.good luck..

I'm not an arborist by any means, only used the chainsaw a few times, but I learn things that I'm probably gonna try out and put to use in the future, you make felling large trees look real easy.

Spend a rainy afternoon watching some buckin' billy ray smith videos, he does a great job explaining his process for felling trees. And he takes down some monsters...

Just a reminder, plastic is frequently a replacement for wood, I'm old enough to have been felling trees BEFORE there were plastic wedges. We made felling wedges from dry hardwood, but sometimes made them on the spot, with the saw or ax, from the hardest wood available.

Love the curiosity, and the excitement of learning, just go careful. Your hinge was definitely too thick, but I would have made a deeper face. It's more accurate, and also more secure. Trees have two types of wood, heart wood, and sap wood, the heart wood is the centre, and it technically has no living cells. The heart wood acts as primary support for the tree, the sap wood is the live wood surrounding it, which sends water to the leaves. In these walnuts the sap wood is the lighter rings. For felling a tree, you generally want your hinge a fair distance within the heartwood. You can go prety deep without it becoming a hazard, a leaning tree like this you could have easily gone 1/4 of the way through, 1/3 would've been fine, but you can never put wood back, so if you face it the wrong way, thats where its going. I would do some research to double check what an ideal face for a trigger and plunge cut would be. Here in BC most people use a back cut with wedges you can pound on to open your back cut, and ensure the tree falls. Remember, this is a skilled trade, where people die every day, take your time, and keep learning. Kudos for posting this, it takes a real man to publish their mistakes on the internet. I have a lot of respect for you.

I'm in love with that Deere 325G.

You sound like a really great honest guy.

I really love your honesty. Learn something new on each video

This is an important video and it’s good you posted it because many think that bore and trigger is a sure fire fix for ‘chairing.

Nobody's perfect Brock. We learn as we go. I personally usually make my wedge cut a good bit deeper and make my back cut on a slight angle down to the wedge cut. I was taught that from some old timers about 50 years ago. I really don't know if it's the right way but it's never failed me. Keep up the good work and don't put yourself down. You're doing a great job.

Great video. I never knew that was a "mistake" just the way the tree fell! Thanks for sharing/teaching!

still a great video - you are one of the very few wearing PPE - everything else is just a learning curve... thank you for that !!!

I'm impressed with the skid steer. Never thought it would move that Walnut with such ease. As for the barber chair. It's a learning curve, and although dangerous, is no where near as bad as most I've seen on KZfaq. Keep up the good work.

I appreciate your humble attitude. Greatest lesson here. 🙏

Glad that all worked out. Thanks for sharing. Always something new to learn.

Thanks Brock, great information and helpful to those of us still learning

I haven't done any significant sawing since I was a kid with my dad and grandpa... so I learn a little something new with each of your videos. 'Back in the day' metal wedges were all we had. Seemed normal at the time but now I can see the wisdom in not using them for sawing - just splitting! We are hoping to get a wood burner this year so I'm brushing up on my sawing skills. Thanks for sharing Brock! 🤠

Thank you for sharing!

You guys are out there doin the work. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe fellas.

Thanks for your honesty

Nice job on firewood cutting!🤩🤩

GOOD JOB--VID.INFORMATIVE -I'VE BEEN IN AROUND TREE WORK FOR YEARS BUT STILL LEARNING. I'LL WATCH MORE OF YOUR VIDS-BE SAFE🌲

Great vid mate. Humility is a sign of a great human being. Thank you for sharing. I’ve got Deere envy about that nifty little machine you used. What a great bit of kit. 👍👍👍

I love what you're showing in your videos, I have to say I yelled at you through my computer at 8:51 out of fear for your safety...

Very useful information. Thanks.

I learned something today. Thanks

Kudos mate...many will learn from this (myself included). Thanks.

I’ve watched videos where I am cringing & hoping no one gets hurt. I am a retired arborist & did it for 35yrs. Some folks think it’s not so hard to cut trees. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS if you’re not careful.

Great video. I'm about as far as anyone could be from being a logger or logging knowledgeable person. It amazes me what skill and frankly, toughness and courage people have to possess to do this for a living. Nothing short of amazing to me, to be honest, and whenever I watch something being done that people have done for centuries using modern equipment as depicted here, all I can do is wonder HOW they used to do this type of work without all the power stuff and moving equipment. Incredible.

[t is a great teaching video from what was done by you and all those very constructive commentaries. thanks. i was about to say something too but i realized i am just a little ignorant beginner.

Important thing is no one got hurt and you learnt from your mistake, meaning next time you’ll be more cautious (hopefully). Nice video!

Nice work, man.

Congrats on 30K!

Honesty? The good & the bad? Count me in! Subscribed. DOUGout

Tree trunks are deceptively heavy. I am always amazed the strength to support big limbs and how dangerous they are when they fall. Good video - seeing "mistakes" is important for us to learn from.

I just like this dude. thanks for the vids

Knock on wood, but the only mishap for me was when my husband was topping a 50' cedar, where the falling limb bounced on its canopy and the cut section came right at me, with a hard hit to the top of my head. I was actually at a safe distance, and watching closely, but without a helmet. It was a freakish accident, and rung my bell, lol, but thankfully I didn't require medical attention. I'm an EMT with a high tolerance for pain, but this one really got my attention for safety. I've been felling my own trees for years, and never had a really close call, because I use common sense and am super safety conscious. The close calls that I have experienced are when I'm working with others, when THEY weren't safety conscious.

I saw that your original notch was not clean and it was about half the required size that I would do on a tree that size. We figure 1/3 the Dia for the notch. But thanks for the video and info.

Thank you very much for showing! Always good to learn from situations like this. As to the reason what might have also contributed to this (in combination with too much hinge): in my chainsaw course/certification we learned to cut the sides (where the roots start to begin and the tree gets wider) away. Or at least make a 2-4cm deep cut into the splintwood from both sides of the hinge. German: "Splintschnitt". If you pause your video at 7:38 (right when the tree starts falling) it looks like on the far left there is a piece of wood left that was not cut and starts the crack. Anyway I certainly do by far not have as much practical experience as many others here, so pls. only see this as my guesswork 🙂 Other things I noticed: only shorts later in the video? Working under the tree like that looked dangerous as well as leaving the stumps like this. All the best to you, stay save and greeting from Germany! 🙋‍♀Anna

It happens sometimes but everyone was safe like you said. Everyone makes mistakes we are human.

Make the mistake and share it so others don't have to. Very respectable

Your saw skills have been improving 👍

Some people frown on it, but cutting the hinge completely off or making the cuts so the hinge broke clean before it hit the ground usually allows the tree to roll with the limbs up and the trunk on the ground..

I do woodturning, and I wish I could save a few chunks of that walnut from your woodpile! Cool channel - subscribed!

It appears your chain is dull. It’s blowing sawdust. Those are some nice black walnut logs. My sawmill would love to have those. Lol

I'd say you are right that your back cut left a hinge that was too thick. Several things I do differently though. One, I make my back cut almost level with my face cut. Definitely not below, so maybe just a half inch higher. I feel that makes a better hinge. Though I can't explain exactly why. Second, I make my trigger cut level as well. You want your trigger to happen fast. So make it small, and make it happen quick. A level trigger cut will happen faster than an angled one. Just my $.02, and I'm quite possibly wrong with the way I do it. You will get lots of people who are going to tell you what you did wrong. I'm just telling you what we do differently and let you decide what to do on the next tree. Stay safe, my friend.

Correct assessment of what happened with the barber chair. Next time Get a rope or a chain on that snag and pull the tree onto the ground if at all possible. Lots fewer variables that way. Good videos! Keep on keeping on!

Very good explanation of the technique and of the mistake. I thought before that the bore cut is a magic tool to prevent barber chair no matter how it is made.

I worry about anyone who uses a chainsaw above their head makes me nervous. You have very little control of your saw when extending those arms upwards. Be safe brother!

00:16 looks a good edge you put on that axe. Maybe an older Collins? Keep up the good videos. I'm trying to learn how to not kill myself with storm damage trees, Virginia pines, leaning WAY over, definite Barber Chairs every one.

Greetings...I like your channel. Your last cut @1:40 on the first tree...to be safe (not having the butt lift you or your chainsaw)! Cut below your "Bore" 1" to 3"...the tree will still fall, but ALOT SAFER! If will fall, while your chainsaw is cutting the stump side. (= the finishing cut). I picked that up watching other's. Cheers.

Another great video, thanks so much. I did cringe at 08:44, that looked risky but maybe it was the camera angle. Trees that are half down or hung up are super-unpredictable. Here in the UK 'chainsaw shorts' would raise an eyebrow, but I guess we have no idea what it's like to work in your climate. I love your honesty and thoughtful approach - I'd work alongside you anytime (but not under a half felled tree). Really appreciate your time and effort 👍👌👏

Only a sure man admits his mistakes on camera. You can learn from everything if you let yourself. They say that a smart man learns from his mistakes. A wise man learns from the mistakes - of others. Glad you’re ok. You helped us be safe(r).

Some suggestions: use gloves, vibrations are damaging capillaries that leads to cold hands, damage is irreparable (if you are doing often) @0:20 sharpen your chain, small sawdust indicates it is not sharp enough @0:20 get on your knees, your back will be thankful, you will also get less tired When doing face cut, always cut horizontally first, while this helps you to define felling direction. Make deeper face cuts (thinner are for leaners), this was the cause for barber chairing second tree. After finishing horizontal face cut, pull chainsaw back while maintaining bar's position in line with face cut. Then just change angle and start cutting from side, penetrate just a little bit so that your bar maintains position and progress to the top of "vertical" face cut (the moment at @0:27). And then you finish the cut with bar positioned as it should be. Few attempts and you will get instant pefectly shaped face cuts, with not such corrections as at @0:37. After tree falls, cut away all spikes, they may kill you if you fell on it. It's also dangerous for wild animals. @2:52 start cutting from above for about 30% of diameter, then pull out almost entire bar (leave little inside just to maintain position) and continue cutting for about next 30% of diameter and then fully penetrate and finish to the bottom. Then start cutting upwards remaining part, that also serves as wedge, so you don't need any wedges at all. Unlike your method (pulling out bar and finishing from bottom to top, causing uneven cut like at @10:25), you will get even cut. This applies to tree, where both sides are pressing away from cut (like in video), when opposite (usually when one side of tree/log is lifted) you do procedure opposite, starting at bottom. @9:25 If you look closely that cut, you can see it's curved. That means chain is not sharpen properly, one side has been more sharpened, causing teeth to become uneven. You have to even teeth on both sides. @9:40 wedge was unnecessary, look how it neetly fell on a bar 😭 Those shorts are killing me, no matter the situation, use proper safety gear. I once cut myself while repairing fence for cows. Luckily, forest boots saved my leg.

I've found your vids to be the most helpful so far. No choice but to cut stuff myself, in case anyone's thinking negative (I'm not trying to be macho, etc). How do you store wood logs until ready to use? Having a dickens of a time finding info. Do i need to keep em wet like lumberyards do?

I'm in the never cut down a tree category, lol. At the end... I'm thinking ok, how do you get those logs out of the trailer! I was answered promptly, lol. All these toys must be very expensive! I didn't know trailers could do that like dump trucks, lol!

Aren't the smaller sections of black walnut somewhat valuable too?

I like your saw. Seems to have plenty of power. What is the brand and model?

The only suggestions I would make is to increase the size of your face cuts to one third of the trunk width. You may also find it easier when cutting horizontal logs to do the bottom cut of 25 percent first, then do the top cut. The should reduce the need for wedging.

The reason? Complacency, stay vigilant and stay safe.

Walnut = Gunstocks! 😀

If you have an axe, saw a small limb and split it. You can make a wooden wedge in like 2 minutes with an axe. (Always bring an axe is the lesson!)

I really believe that you could benefit from taking 1 of Cotontop3 chainsaw classes he's very good at what he does and his classes are great. When your in the woods falling trees it's very dangerous! Your chain looks to be dull

Great video! I woulda thought the hinge would have broken when you cut the trigger. Appreciate you making this video.

Instead of notching and cutting the limb that the trunk was resting on, would it not have been safer/handier to throw a strap around it and roll it over, pulling it with the skid steer?

It’s ok Brock, your wedge cut could’ve been a little deeper BUT good job bud👍😊

the notch was shallow on the barber chair.. that was the primary cause. However thick that hinge was if you had gone 1/3 of the depth with the notch the tree would not have barber chaired. The fact that you didn't mention that shows you have a lot to learn

When you forget your plastic wedges, make some out of wood with your saw. It's worked for me before. I've paid the price for using steel wedges before. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. Peace, good video.

I would turn some bowls with those nice logs 😁

With walnut, I bore into the center of the face cut to minimize pulls and reduce chances of barber chair.

I've wrapped a long chain around the tree about a foot above the cut on some trees that made me nervous. Hope I never see a barber chair.

... Learned these facts from a logger named Ray..." Both cuts should be made from the same side of the tree. Your undercut and back cut should be level horizontal planes, with the back cut slightly above the undercut. Heavy lean or limbs on one side make a barber chair more likely. In this case lower the back cut a little but be sure it is still above the undercut. Undercut should be a little bigger on this tree, maybe up to one third... Use a spotter to help you line up your cuts. It was strange for me to see the back cut started with a plunge cut through the tree. I learned to put wedges in the back cut as soon as soon as they will clear the bar. These also act as immediate indicators as to what the tree is going to do as well as protecting the bar if the tree settles back. Also, they allow wedging forces to send the tree where you want it. NEVER cut entirely through the holding wood as it acts like a hinge to determine the direction of the fall. The fall direction will be perpendicular to the line of the holding wood, and if you cut through it, you have lost the directional control it gives you. Clear an escape route for when it starts to fall and "beat cheeks" out out of the way as it falls. As it falls, watch for spring loaded ****suckers as limbs or even whole trees may be broken and hurled back at you. "Down the hill!"

Hi just a question, what kind of walnut tree is this, the only walnut I know of is the one you get the nuts from and the ones I know of look quite different to those that you are cutting

Q: Does the hinge size scale with tree size/diameter?

For me, the crooked ones have the most interesting figure inside.

It could have been worse, you live and you learn.

Walnut splits very easily. The 10% hinge wood is just a basic guide. If a tree has rot or is less likely to split , like elm. You can go a bit wider with hinge. With walnut and a heavy lean, good to bore the middle of hinge out and leave some meat on the corners

Glad to see something since everyone is always screaming their life is in danger. Yes, yes we know, you're almost dead, but the brass has you in the woods cutting anyway. What would we do if you weren't on the edge of gehenna ? By golly, you're almost dead, and out the door you go again, it's just tremendous, I'm cutting up some wood stars right now.

Seen other people leave the hinge too thick and cause a barber chair too, I prefer Buckin's method where he doesn't fell it directly into the lean. Let's you have more control if you wedge it over rather than depending entirely on your hinge being perfect then cutting a trigger.

I learned just like you. Still learning

was nervous watching you notch the supporting branch, a lot of tree above your head, maybe the camera angle made it look more scary

I'm no expert either but at 10:09 you start sawing at full speed with the upper side of the bar while apparently being in its same plane... Isn't that asking for a lethal kickback to the head?

great video...why the plunge cut vs cutting outside in ??

You should learn the Humboldt cut especially since you are cutting valuable wood for the purpose of lumber. The Humboldt will save wood on your saw log by moving the wasted wood to your stump. Every inch is money especially in walnut

on the bright side you have a chair

ive been watching a lot of tree cutting videos now, and Im realizing why do tree cutters what it appears to me as MOURNING the fact that the tree wasn't cut right .. lol the tree is down , nobody is hurt lol it doesnt matter how the tree is taken down.

A dead pine tree can be a killer.i seen a man one day cutting a dead pine. And it stack fell.the tree collapsed. He was lucky the wood was rotten. That's why I use a axe and cut the bark. I use a chain near my cut to prevent a barber chair

to be really dangerous, a barber chair would occur when the tree falls unexpectedly or prematurely. the 2nd walnut tree fell when you expected it, as you were escaping. no harm done, except to the walnut log, which probably resulted in a financial harm if you were milling the logs.

It appears your chain is very dull? Just saying

This barber's chair was not a spectacular one and that is good and reassuring at the same time. After all, you were at a greater distance when you cut the trigger by applying the boring cut. My only hairdressing chair resulted from an incomplete boring cut. So I would have the large differences in tension in the rear part of the trunk again. In Germany, foresters are encouraged to always work with a trigger. This is known as the safety felling technique.

Hey, a steel wedge is “steel”better than no wedge.

Check out Buckin billy ray he's good to learn from. and boring isnt the best way for back cut