Tim Clark you think i can fit these on a aeroad?

@@ppham The disc brake version yes.

Thinking about these for my 2018 giant tcr advance disk KOM. I live where it's all flat .

Tim Clark canyon website says max clearance for the aeroad is 25mm but everyone I see even gcn using 28mm tires on their aeroads haha

@@ppham Yeah the GCN version of this video has these exact wheels with 28mm tyres on an Aeroad, I'm sure it's fine. From a purely aesthetic point of view though I'm not sure these look quite right on an aeroad... I think that bike looks better with something deeper than 40mm.

@@paddymurphy-oconnor8255 Yes you can. Inflate w.o valve core, seat the bead, quickly insert valve core and you're done.

I need that

Which 2021 TCR model?

Not sure what your weight is, but that pressure seems low. I would be going 75/70 at least. I have been running the same tires at 28c, I have tried 65/60, 75/70 & 85/80....so far the higher pressure has been the best, speed comfort. The lower pressure felt a tad sluggish. I'm 70kg...

Dude, I wish I had your cycling budget.....that said, why would you get a second TCR? Why not go for a Propel? Or something else. They haven't changed the geometry or tube profile very much between the 2020-2021 TCR.

@@Dee-Ell TCR Advanced 2 Disc Pro Compact

@@chiefrocker12 You're running the same tires, hopefully not the same wheels. These tires with the 303 Firecrest wheels are a different animal. The wheels have a maximum pressure of 73 PSI. Zipp recommends 60/65 PSI. Works great for me.

Glad they worked out for you and thanks for sharing

Very good point thanks for sharing Paul

Which is why some wheel brands sustain their guidelines. Safety first.

Thanks 👍

Whats he said? Let me guess....@ Shite?

Maybe your wide tires have knobs ? Also 36 mm wide tires are too much

@@Paulklampeeps the race bike fits 25mm slicks. It doesn't have enough space either side to take a 28mm. 36mm slicks in the winter is like riding on rails, limited concerns about ice, minimal extra rolling resistance (not enough to care) and verify tubeless I managed last winter without any punctures. Each to their own for what is 'too much' though.

exactly right, at lower pressures there is no rolling resistance gain.If you pump up the wider tire to narrow tire than the comfort is the same.

Yeah, really wish this was emphasised more on these videos. It's a trade-off - like-for-like wider tyres _can_ have lower Crr, but that relies on you having similar pressures, you _can_ have more comfort but that relies on you tending to similar rolling resistance. The point about suspension losses is reasonably valid though.

Narrower tyres do have less rolling resistance but in the long run the loss of momentum, and energy in your muscles due to the vibrations makes the wider Tyre the overall winner

@@markitoxi "Narrower tyres do have less rolling resistance" Like-for-like, narrower tyres will have invariably have a _higher_ rolling resistance, due primarily to hysteresis losses in the side-wall, than a wider one at the same pressure.

Wider tyres can be great, I'm just highlighting that the data has been misinterpreted when suggesting that a wider tyre can be run at both a lower pressure and a lower rolling resistance. That still leaves plenty of reasons and situations to run a wider tyre.

@@JogBird If you flatted and had to stop and put in a new tube, you had a catastrophic puncture. So in 25 years you never had one?

Soon as I rack up a few more miles. Are there any specific things you want to know about them I can maybe answer in the video review? Or hear?

@@davidarthur I'm wondering if the 303F cuts the wind as well (or better) than the 303S, quality/performance of the new hubs on the 303F, do they both have similar road vibration dampening, and of course which set is overall faster. :) Thank you, much appreciated.

How does the rearhub compare from 303s to 303 firecrest? Is there a big difference in Engagement? I am coming from DTSwiss 240 Hubs and I am not sure if the 303s will satisfy my expectations with the 3-pawl Design.

@@davidarthur ​ Dear Dave, I was wondering exactly the the same with stefan. Any thoughts?

@@stefans7348 did you end up getting the 303Fs after all? How do they compare hub-wise?

They’re more durable than hooks. There’s more material on the edges.

Thanks for watching!

Was it worth the upgrade? How did the SLR wheels go? I’m looking at getting a TCR soon

@@jong4691 SLR wheels have been great, had no problems with them for 4 years. It was just a nightmare getting tubeless tyres on and off. Jury is still out as to whether it was worth the upgrade; feels slightly faster, slightly lighter but a big expense. It's that piece of mind knowing if I do get a puncture, I'm going to be able to sort it relatively easily instead of battling and losing at the side of the road.

@@paulb8627 hi if you puncture wouldn’t the sealant fix it? How do you repair it?

Maybe not so much aero, but consider the noise reduction. Definitely a big plus.

@@silvere36 were you able to hear sound of air gliding over the rim surface as you ride? And tell the difference between smooth high profile rim and dimpled rim just by the sound? You must be super human!

@@caperider1160 have you not noticed those done designs on car? Specifically you can find them on mirrors. It's too disrupt certain type of airflow that causes whistling to of noises. If you ride with groups you should have noticed certain setups were more mousey than others. I don't now why you're having trouble with this. People don't do this just to look good. This adds cost.

@@silvere36 Dynamics of air is highly chaotic, meaning that a small changes in variables lead to completely different outcome. The idea of dimples work perfectly for a golf ball because they have figured out the right range of diameters and depths of dimples for the ball's curvature and typical range of speeds. Two things are important here. The dimples are colliding with the air head-on and also spinning. The situation is very different for a high profile bicycle wheels. Analysing the way air flows around the rim as you ride through wind, dimples are definitely not a candidate to reduce air drag. The only thing that practically matters is the depth of the rim, looking at aerodynamics perspective, if you look at the order of magnitudes for variables that affect air drag. I am not an aerodynamics specialist but I am a research physicist. And I have aerospace expert friends who work in respectable industries. They all point out that these dimples on zipp wheels are marketing gimmicks. Aerodynamic evaluations need wind tunnels and it is one area average consumers just have to swallow whatever the manufacturer claims. Now, your story about noise reduction is very interesting because if indeed there is noise reduction, it practically means less drag! Sound is also a form of energy. But I doubt that you can hear any bells or whistles at speeds a mortal cyclist can achieve on an average day.

I was just looking at that exact same upgrade, not sure if it's worth expence?

I was using a ultegra di2 12 speed and I buy a wheelset od zipp 303 firecrest with xdr driver body. You need only to change the xdr driver by a shimano 11 speed body kit (fit a 12 speed too), the end caps are the same.

No you need sealant, He said after he was going to add sealant

Thanks and yes! Sorry should have made that clearer

Air resistance increases exponentially with speed, not logarithmically...

You have to define "slow". Otherwise, it's of little use.

@@Dee-Ell Both true, but I think you get the basic point.

@@mikeypalmer3977 However the premise of the basic point is a little too basic - total drag is not solely a function of frontal area (and that's ignoring suspension losses, robustness and any comfort issues). As mentioned here, and everywhere, repeatedly - if you're on the track, or blessed with glass smooth tarmac, go skinny at high pressure; everywhere else, it depends.

exponentially not logarithmically

I owned 3T wheels. C35 discus team stealth... after 2000km the rearwheel colapsed and had to be sent back to Italy. Once received, it took an other 2000km to break down again... will never buy anything from 3T again. Customer Service is very Bad also. The time to repair my wheel was about 3 month.😂😂😂 when I received it back the Summer was gone.

Puncture protection of the Powers doesn't test as well as Pro Race and that's something I like about Pro Race. Looks like they traded rr for pp to compete with continental. But poor pp is why I stopped using contis.

I’m considering the same thing but nobody seems to have tried it

I’m not sure tbh but I hear reports you can go wider than the 28mm max recommendation

I have 28 on my Emonda SLR6. It will take a wider tyre 30mm measured. I’m considering these wheels. Light and will aid comfort as the Emonda is stiff on byzzy road surfaces!

Good question. Honestly I haven’t tried gravel with the 303 wheels yet but I will do

I decided to spare you all that detail. I simply unseated one bead, poured some sealant in, and popped the tyre back on. I always prefer to do a dry run just to make sure it's going to work before getting the sealant involved. I've had some messy installations when a tyre has refused to inflate. Another option with some sealant is to inject it via the valve core which saves removing the tyre

​@@davidarthur Removable cores are generally seen as a good bet for road tyres (ease of use, mess considered) especially if you have a tapered nozzle bottle or an injector, which many of the sealant bottles either have or come with resp. - surprised you're still going ol'school MTB :) Habit or preference ? (or do the Zipp cores not come out ?...)

Check with SRAM to see if that so an end cap for that would be my suggestion