Keep doing what you doing, awesome stuff thanks

I really don’t get the thumbs down, I’m building garden rooms not murdering babies 🤷🏻‍♂️ appreciate you and the rest of the gang with your kind words and support, me and my team will keep on marching 🙌

ps owe you a beer should we ever bump into each other

Gavin Smith I’m no expert of any shape or form but this in my opinion is more then adequate for a garden room structure, the steel is also clad inside and out with timber which I thought would give a certain amount of thermal brake! But again I’m thinking about this as someone who has never been involved in this type of construction (only done internal shopfitting for 35yrs) when thinking about the cross section of a Catnic lintel in a block and brick construction this also has a continuous metal base plate that spans from outside to inside with no type of thermal brake, what these guys are doing looks to be a higher end product to what I have seen done over the years.

Ken Larman, what a well thought out comment! Couldn’t of even come close to your explanation, just doing my best in the circumstances that are put in my way, your reasoning comparisons to a lintel are similar to my hybrid roof, and to that my friend , I salute you!! My kinda thinking, except you can verbally. Express it 💪💪👍🏼

Gavin is right. Metal is a very very good heat conductor. Wood has some R value. I think that the heat lost will be small as the surface is small. Structural benefit outweighs the heat loss. Only issue I is possible condensation inside the metal beam. Foam at both ends? Then there would be no need for wool inside.

Tomy Bino it’s 2 mins work and costs penny’s, imo it’s worth the effort

Tomy Bino it’s a tuff one the steel is there to do a job albeit it’s going to be a cold spot, mild steel unpainted it will rust, (although not rot through) be easy to increase the thickness by 50mm on the front walls which are the smallest walls on most of these builds, good way to insulate that steel and I would also Zink prime or red lead whatever, before fitting, when your going to the trouble of doing everything else it’s nothing really, what do I know, also be good to dpc the inner layer of steel so it doesn’t rot the timber, all about the detail, no one sees it like you say but you know it’s there and you done everything you can to make it the best, enjoy watching the build

😂😂

@@amyhcarpentry3698 🛠️👷‍♀️🏩

Think it's called a playlist?

I’m such a nob! I thought playlists was wgat I liked to watch 🤣

@@thegardenroomguru lol, we all learn something hence why I watch your videos lol

Currently training in process, thanks for your support

💁🏼‍♀️

That’s it mate, height restrictions

Sorry found it in comments below. So just under 2.1 back and sides and I assume then 75mm higher on front wall?

There’s no reason to angle cut the osb on the side walls as it would serve no purpose to be honest, if walls aren’t right angles we will just butt them together and nail as normal, plenty nails and there’ll be no issues

Did u ever find out about the 4.5 span ..I have the same roof ,can I use 2x 5x2 bolted together ?

Still not big enough mate, and the height is thenissue

im super happy about this!!! small start to this in less than 6month, its insane

william griffin keep it up.. the day to day videos and the detail is key !!

screws snap, nails don't, well the crap screws I get do anyway

Screw gun always

If you double batten it for airflow the insects would get in anyway?

Base is pressure treated, walls cls, roof c16 mate

william griffin lovely, cheers mate 👍

Timber wasn’t long enough so wall extended

He dose mention this in the video 🤓

we have 3 little ones, they are ok, but you gotta keep moving them, tbh, its to keep the tools dry the most.

Is this for power tools or to drown out the sound of the gaffer shouting at them 😂😂

Agreed. Sorry to be a killjoy but they really should have eye protection too when using nail guns....

Height is 160, width is 200 bearing

@@thegardenroomguru aahhh gotcha. assumed you were talking about the height my bad, and what about the walls then are they fixed just at base and via roof appendages?

Available at www.oakwoodgardenrooms.com mate 👌

No mate, power not run yet, don’t worry, I’ll include a video

@@thegardenroomguru brilliant thanks

I’d be putting a steel across the middle to split the length, it’s too much

I am the same and like to think the stuff on TV is crap

Says more about the stuff on TV...

They probably did but didn't mention it.

Nope, but it is once the laurels are cleared

If the height is under 2.5m which it is then it can be as close to the boundary as you like

Pretty sure if it is over 15m2 and within 1m of the boundary it should have building regs

I’ll show it getting clad don’t worry 👌

Kaine Varley I would imagine it’s easier to do it that way because of the lack of working space at the rear!

@@rossolancer That makes sense. Thx Tony

Easier to seal the corners too

What timbers did yo7 use on your 4.8 span?

if you batten once the air will only pass on that 400mm section, this way it passes throughout the full wall area

I'm guessing the gladding is being fixed vertically.. if you just had horizontal battens the water can sit (and be trapped) on the top edge of the batten. This way there is always somewhere for water to drain.. and air to flow past and keep the cavity and back of the cladding dry.

Thank you!

I was going to ask this. Great reply though, makes a lot of sense

1950 mate

thanks buddy.

Tech screwed mate

@@thegardenroomguruthanks.

400 spacings mate, gives you maximum use of the insulation

@@thegardenroomguru thank you for clarifying, that's great info to know, loving the option of doubling the joists. thank you.