Chris McGaughey thank you. The DD15 is pretty simple, are you working on them or buying a truck with a DD15?

@@CarlosDieselElectric Buying a 2021 Western Star 4900ex with a 505 hp dd15

Chris McGaughey I recommend to stick to the scheduled maintenance and you will be fine. Also look into an extended warranty that also covers the after treatment. The filter can get tricky down the road. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

DD15 are garbage, who convinced you they were good?

MrConstant1 the fuel drain on the fuel module should be automatic when the filters are removed. Once you remove the filters on the GHG14 the fuel level will drop because the filters help create a vacuum and hold fuel in place. The GHG17, I haven’t come across yet because they are too new. I usually don’t see new trucks until they are about 3-4 years old.

It will click or drop into place. Takes some practice. I usually fill the housing up to the threads as the filter hovers over. You might need to push down and turn. You will still need to prime the fuel system with the hand pump. It will take 1-2 minutes of pumping. Try not use starting fluid.

Yes it is normal, some will have it depending on how it was ordered but you be ok without it.

@Pedro Fuentes oh okay thank you, I was like Damm I hope i won't have any problems

De'Ja Vu the small fuel filter is designed to catch the debris first. It is actually the primary filter and has the highest micron rating. Metal debris could mean the fuel pump might be going out. Try to keep at least 1/2 tank of fuel. The extra fuel actually helps keep the fuel system (HI Pressure fuel pump , injectors) cool.

el sensor está localizado en la parte de abajo cerca del drenaje

@@CarlosDieselElectric munchas gracias por su contestacion a mi pregunta. Saludos desde Florida👋👋👋👋 amo sus videos gracias por compartirlos con owner operators, son una Gran ayuda, Dios lo bendiga Sr Pedro

The truck needs to run, preferably on the road to push the air out. Try running s parked regen. This also helps.

If you are talking about the old style lines, you may have to grind down an old wrench to get in there.

@@CarlosDieselElectric . Yes that would work a lot better. There was an extra fitting on the outside line that I was able to take off and gave me access to the two inside lines

There is no programming needed to the ECM. Just remove the old and install the new.

@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks bro. Keep up the good work.

Possible bad fuel pump. Remove the fuel filter (small one) and check for shinny debris (metal). Also, connect to the truck using your DDDL software and check the reading while you are cranking. You should have a desired and an actual.

@@CarlosDieselElectric rail pressure at 600 psi, desired at 3200 psi while cranking, will run on starting fluid, I know your not supposed to use it, but for testing it fired

Very normal, once you run the engine (drive it) the air will work it’s way out and you will be back to normal.

@@CarlosDieselElectric thanks

There is a check valve on the inlet line. Also, check the O-Rings. One of them may be pinched, also check the fuel filter itself. At the base where it seats or sits the grommet may be damaged.

The update or upgrade comes with everything you need. Plugs, brackets and everything. Pretty straight forward. I will try to make a video.

Great question, I have seen trucks that come in that were once Ryder, Penske type trucks and they have a sticker that says replaced every 200,00 miles. Which to me seems ridiculous, I personally change them with every service, which for most trucks we service is every 25,000 miles. There is a indicator line on the housing which says once fuel level gets to this point the filter needs to be replaced. You can always go by that reference. Good thing the filter is about $60-70, so it is not too expensive.

I actually do not why some trucks are equipped with and some are not. But I think of it as an extra layer of protection for your engine, injectors and fuel system.

Did you ever done adding water separator filter? And do you think it would work without any sensors getting messed up? I'm thinking to do that since my fuel pump went bad after only 15 k miles after replacing ( I did complete fuel sistem washing with new fuel modul but probably radiator shop didn't wash fuel that good)... Thank you and best regards

Daniel Barron the nipple will catch. I usually try to line it up so it catches right away. Makes it faster once you seat the filter. You should be good to go.

Carlos Diesel Electric thanks brother👍🏻

What has been to the truck? Recent oil change? Recent fuel filter change? Give me some more history on the truck, has it always done this?

@@CarlosDieselElectric problem started after I got a full pm done but this was in June I just had another done last week problem is still there and wasn't before I took it to them in June. I know I can't prove it was something they did but I know it was. Im just trying to figure out if there are a few things that I can rule out or is this something only a mechanic can fix. I'm leasing this truck from SFI so if I can do some things I will to avoid using my forced maintenance account $$.

@@Choward1234are you using OEM (original) filters? How many miles are on the truck? Do you have access to the DDDL software? There is fuel system integrity check function that can hopefully help pin point the issue. But before you do that try filters first, also. Do you have the fuel water separator?

@@CarlosDieselElectric not sure on filters last pm was done at T/A dont know if they use OEM or not. No access to computer software 256,288 miles no other issues i have an APU so very minimal idling

@@Choward1234 you may still have a factory warranty through Detroit Diesel. It is usually 4 years 500k miles. But call the dealer and verify or call Detroit Diesel with the last 6 of the VIN. If not, try doing a fuel filter change using OEM filters. See if it makes a difference

The fuel pump has check valves on the side. The bottom is the low side or low pressure. The top is high pressure. It could be the bottom valve getting stuck. Try removing the filter and look for any issues with the filters. Try replacing them if you have any doubts and go from there.

How long have you had this issue

@@CarlosDieselElectric for a month now after getting a full pm done on my truck.

@@roydricktaylor135 have you done a service since then?

@@CarlosDieselElectric .Buenas noche tengo un freightliner cascadia dd15 2016 q tengo el mismo problema para q prenda lo tengo q pompear le hago seevicio cada 12.000 mil millas

nelson bagro if you put a manual gauge on the priming port, what is the pressure when you crank? Or when you use your Diagnostic Link software, what is the cranking pressure?

I change them every time we service the truck, the book will say every 25,000 miles or depending on duty cycle or hours. I have seen trucks from Ryder or Penske that have stickers that say every 200,000 miles on the filter housing. That to me seems crazy.

I personally have not seen this happen. Doesn't mean it cant happen. What seems to be happening? Are you getting coolant in oil? Coolant in fuel?

@@CarlosDieselElectric yeah. Coolant in the fuel filter housing. I changed the cup seals, then test drove it and I'm still getting coolant in the reservoir. I'll drain it drive for about 5mins, check it, have to drain it again. This truck came w/a 3 filter system but someone converted it at some point.

jejunjohn could be the fuel filter housing or could also be the cylinder head. You might have to find a machine shop to check the cylinder head

Ok thanks.

budders !!! Spin it. There is some resistance but then the fuel will drain. This is usually done when you want to drain the entire module. When you remove the caps and pull the filters the fuel level will drop.

If you are replacing the Baldwin 2 filter system (pf9908kit), then you should know that removing the larger cap for the housing will always separate from the filter, leaving it stuck inside the housing with trapped fuel inside. Since I always change the Fleet fuel-water separator filter (fs20083) when I change the Baldwin 2 fuel filter kit, I remove that filter first to lower the pressure in the collister & allow someplace for the fuel to exit. Next, I remove the prescreen filter to lower the pressure even further in collister. Finally, I remove the large fuel filter cap (for Baldwin filters will separate from the cap as previously described). I usually wait an additional 5 minutes to allow the fuel to lower on its own. I then use a 2 ft, #5 Phillips head screwdriver to spear through the paper portion of filter & catch it on a plastic center, then prying the filter out against the lip of the housing. Then I install the Fleet filter & then prime it. Next I install the prescreen filter. Lastly, I install the big filter, priming it much like the way it is described in the video above.

I forgot to mention to be careful not to break the stand pipe inside the collister housing when prying the filter off (It is a $2000 repair by the OEM). You also need to be careful not to dent the lip of the housing. What I do use one hand to gently pry down on screwdriver, while I use the other one to hold the filter straight so it won’t break the stand pipe. Also, you don’t want crack the filter center when spearing throw the paper portion, so that it will leave debris in the housing (otherwise, you would then have to clean it out) you just want to push enough just to grab the rigid center.

Ted Lee great info. Thanks. I thought that filter supposed to come out with the lid? Why is it so hard to get it out?

Igor OREGON Minor differences in manufacturing process.

Lo voy hacer, no mas que llege un camion con ese estillo.

It cost a lot of money to run and operate a shop. The filters are shop rates cost money.