Thanks

Thanks glad we could help.

I am about to order some tw222 for my twin cam 96. Do you think it was worth the upgrade?

@@tylerdzugan9596 Yes, I installed them in a tw-96 (2010 Ultra) and it was well worth the effort. I called Woods and talked to Bob. I used Fueling adjustable pushrods, installed TBR 2 into 1 exhausted and a high flow air cleaner, Then tuned using a Power Vision turner due to having fuel injection. Ran the bike to Florida, and averaged 42 MPG on the 2500 mile trip. Plenty of power.

I'm wanting to install the Wood 222 also in my 08/96"...nice gains in HP and especially torque! Good no BS video! Did my 01, 20 yrs ago...not having to press in the cams on the 96" is nice!

I wanna put the TW222 in my 103 , how long did it take and what extra parts did you need

That's a good idea thanks for the tip. I've got thirty years experience wrenching and like I say u can learn something new every day. That is if a person doesn't already think the know everything. Glade my vids can help and thanks for the tip.

Thank you both myself and my son appreciate it.

Thanks for the compliment on the vid, glad to see it helped you get the job done.

Thanks

Thanks for the compliment means alot to know your work is appreciated.

thanks

Glad to be able to help.

Thanks

Did the noise start after putting in the cams.

@@DeathProofProductions yes. It’s not a nasty noise but you sure can here it

If the cam profile ramps down rapidly it's not uncommon to hear the valves hitting the seat.

Thanks.

It's easy.

I have a 2011 superglide with a hd screaming eagle intake, fp3 fuel pack, and Vance and Hines big shots (although I might make the change to a bassani road rage 2). The bike already feels like it pulls good to me but since the cams will give me more power I want to do that upgrade. Do you happen to have any recommendations on what cams would be a good fit? Thanks

What riding style do you do most of the time.

Not sure if this answers the question correctly but I like low to mid range power the best. I Like quick acceleration. I just got the moons 3/4 turn throttle and I like the quicker response.

Sorry for delayed response been covered up trying to get the next vid done. After trying out a pile of different one's on stock compression engine's I really like the s&s 583 for the low end grunt. But what I would do is review the different dyna graphs and pic one that matches your riding style.

Thanks i ended up replacing it, I should have filmed it but didn't think about it.

No, thank you for the compliment.

You mean were the timing marks should be.

Thanks

That would be good preventative maintenance. Thanks for the compliment.

@DeathProofProductions Thanks! I was thinking about that myself. Not sure how many miles the hydraulic tensioners go. I know the pre 06 went anywhere from 10,000 to 40,000.

Yeah I've seen most of them show signs of wear in the 50,000 to 100,000 range.

@DeathProofProductions My main concern is cam bearings. I'm not a fan of the Ina bearings. Thanks again for your input.

You can ride it, just don't try to pop wheelies or do burnouts until your headed back from the shop.

Awesome, thanks mate for the reply@@DeathProofProductions

If it's injected you will have to buy a tuner or take it to someone .

@@DeathProofProductions of course , I knew there was a catch lol

Thanks

I show how in the top end reassembly video go to my play list if you want to check , I guess I should have mentioned that in the cam video. But if your not taking the top off just pull the top tube cover it's got a slit protruding so you can pull it out. Lift the bottom tube it will slide into the top one. Cut the push rod with bolt cutters and remove them, you will want to get some adjustable push rods for reinstallation. I've got a video on how to install adjustable push rods on my playlist also the manufacturer will have instructions to it's easy you won't have any trouble. Than to reinstall the tube cover use a flathead screwdriver to push down on the spring loaded center piece with the cover on top of the screwdriver and walk it in.

First I gotta give you props for that many miles on a 10 year old bike, good job. Your good just changing cams no need for any of the the other thing's. Thanks for the compliment on the vid means alot.

thanks.

what rpm do you spend most of your time.

Thanks for the compliment.

If it's low miles I don't. Thanks for the compliment we try hard to make entertainment as well as passing on knowledge .

Thanks

Thanks.

Your gonna have to or the lifters will fall into the camchest.

A piece of square bar stock.

Unless your building a race motor it's not necessary. The overpressure valve in the support plate is gonna maintain 35p.s.i. The stock pump is capable of putting out more than that but the engine is designed to run at 35. So the valve keeps it close to that.

Yes.

Yep.

Thanks I was just wondering how you were doing 2 days ago.

Thank's my friend. everything ok al.usual ... when you think of coming to Italy to give a little lesson you have our mechanics 😄😄😄.

Yes, I really should have mentioned that in the video.

The real question is if you use a canned map for the cam or do you go for a proper dyno tuning? Flashed tune or entire ECM replacement? @@DeathProofProductions

I actually did but I didn't think to film it, I guess I should have but didn't think about it. I'm still a little new at this filming stuff.

its best to lock them down. in the vidieo you see me use a chisel to lock the teeth on the two sprockets. if it moves a little but you made sure to use red lock tight. ur prolly good but it wouldn't hurt to break it loose than re tighten. using a chisel or something to lock the teeth.

on the evo all you do is remove the outer cam cover then slide the cam out. it's important to make sure your cam gear matches the pinion gear so that the working depth of the gear teeth is right, to prevent gear whine and accelerated wear.

@@DeathProofProductions I appreciate the reply and your content. This really helps a lot !!

oil pump alignment screws. you don't absolutely have to use them.

@@DeathProofProductions ok Thanks

It will not hurt nothing

What is your compression ratio. I'm decking his heads that helped me pic the cam.

@@DeathProofProductions this particular motor has the 95" s.e. kit. I bought it like that. I think it's 9.4 or 9.7? I bought the road king with the 95" kit already done . I think heads are stock but it has 525 cams now, and they are definitely top end cams. I don't wanna use the Andrew's 57 again. They were in a built 103 with 10.8 comp...it had decked heads with 30 thou gaskets. Are the 525 cams a fueling product?. They are strong on the top end.

Ok let me do some figuring. I don't think it's that high just on a big bore my dyna is decked .065 and it's about 10.5 and it's big bore. Let me get back to you.

Ok what I figured up is for what ur wanting I would go with either the cycle rama 575 but my favorite is the s&s 583 for bottom end torque. That's what I'm installing in the vid it's also what I have in my 04 heritage and I love it for my riding style.

@@DeathProofProductions ......thanks man I appreciate you getting back. Do I have to get stiffer springs or can I keep the stock ones with the sns 583?

I think they don't suggest it for touring because most folks tour on the interstate instead of highways . I live in the ozarks and travel out west alot on two lanes and I love the shit out of that cam stopped me from down shifting as much. The 585 is good to. I have prolly trade almost every one they make and those are my favorite in my touring bikes.

S&S551 great cams for heavy touring bikes

You talking about using the straight edge.

@@DeathProofProductions yes sir

Sorry for late reply been covered up working on vids. I quit doing that after the first few hundred cam swaps I did as a tech for Bumpus Harley Davidson. Never found any that were bad out of spec, done thousands since then and never had a issue.

@@DeathProofProductions that makes me hopeful. I paid $15 for the bag of washers from my harley dealer. I will measure and if within tolerance get my money back :)

@@DeathProofProductions you were right, $27 for a machinist straight edge and $15 or washers I never needed

Yes it's on the back of the cam lobe .

S&s 583

I do like me some red delicious to.

I'm a big torque guy because I live in the hills. it has alot to do with what conditions you ride in. I'm about to make a video about it. maybe that will help you decide.

What can you end up going with I got a 2012 aswell 103 I wanna cam

Zippers Red Shift 528 cams

I cleaned the cam plate because I had it in various places in the shop.

I use a snap on blind hole bearing puller set instead of the aftermarket one just for that job. That way I got a tool that does more than one job. To install I use a oak dowel rod and gently massage it in.

@@DeathProofProductions Thanks man, you make it look way easier than most other videos.

It's not necessary to bring it to top dead center. When I install the cams I show a trick on timing it plus with the cylinder off I can pull up the rod to bring it to t.d.c. . That's how I show the method works in the video.

Looks Like He Just Loosened It /;-))

Yes if you go with new cams you will need a tune.

@@DeathProofProductions ok, thought so. Thank you

All you have to do is cams you dont need to replace the other stuff.

@@DeathProofProductions absolutely need to change cam bearings though right?

Its not necessarily needed. If I'm installing a mild cam I don't unless they come in the kit and then I do or if the engine is gonna be built for racing.

@@DeathProofProductions would you consider s&s 583 cam mild? and I guess what cam would you recommend

The 583 is on the edge in early twincams you have to upgrade the springs to prevent valve float. What style of riding do you spend most of your time at.

Thanks

Bush light.

You can but it's not necessary unless you are going to gear drive, especially if you didn't notice excessive vibration before you tore it down.

Makes sense. Thank you! Can I use a regular bearing tool vs the design for a Vtwin that bolts up. Furthermore can I order parts from you to support your page?

Yeah, I use a snap on blind hole bearing puller instead of the specialty puller. You can order parts from us what parts you needing.

Stock 103 looking to do a low end torque cam. Not looking for big performance and replacing cam plate and pump/lifters. Truly just want a cam with new push rods. Where do I order from?

We have a web page but I received a email were I got to fill out some forms the outher day when i was out of town picking up my 1979 formula firebird, so it's unlinked at the moment but I will get it fixed quick fast and in a hurry like, got my son working on it right now.

If you swap to adjustable push rods than about One and a half hour. If you have to remove tank add about three more hour's to it.

Your right pounding on certain bearings is a really bad idea because of the brinelling that's caused by the bearings hitting the load bearing surface they ride on. That causes fretting that starts to spall off under load as the race and bearing come into contact leading to bearing failure. Gently tapping in needle bearings doesn't cause the load bearing surface to impact, the tips of the rollers that are tapered to a point are what make contact. This is a none load bearing surface and won't cause spalling. The inside of the case were they go has a shoulder , you push them in until they make contact. This usually puts them about .050 below the surface of the case.

im in dallas right now so i cant check my channel page. send it to my personal email davethom2004flstc@gmail.com.

@@DeathProofProductions gotcha! Sending now 👊🏻

Wasn't anything wrong with them, they were well within the factory serviceable wear limits. We were trained by the factory to only replace parts that don't have alot of life in them so we don't waste people's money. Your way of thinking seems to be throw parts that you don't need in it, what about the rocker arm's or the valves since I'm putting in cams, the lifter bores are machined into the cases so I guess I need new cases while I'm in there, since aluminum wears faster than steel lifters.

@@DeathProofProductions Bike engines are NO different to car,truck or any internal combustion engine. The rule of thumb is to NEVER us old lifters with a new Cam Shaft. I'm very curious as to how you measure the service life of a cam follower. EVEN if it is a roller lifter

I'm with you they are the same, had to argue that with people a few time's through the years. They have you check the lifters roller for roughness , excessive play and pitting. If Harley thought you needed to replace the lifters every time you do a cam swap they would have sold the cam's as a kit, or recommended to replace them in the item description. They never taught me or the other 30 Harley mechanics Iv worked with through the years to replace them every cam swap, 25 years and thousands of bikes later I have yet to see a problem. My hearetage that I'm riding right now going cross country is a prime example. Iv changed the cams out on it Polly 5 times looking for the one I wanted. 100,000 miles later no problem.

Thanks for the comment it helps us figure out the content. I had other thing's to film on this bike but I should have thought about cranking it.

it's not so much about going fast on them , it' more about enjoying one more thing to do with the bike. mechanics like me and the guys i worked with just like having a reason to tinker with them. it's a way to bond with the bike so to speak, even on my not Harley bikes I do the same on them. when me and my wife were dating she asked me why i have so many different brands of bike's my response was why do you have so many brands of shoe's, its because they all feel different. she shook her head and said i see your point.

Not everyone wants to get where they are going as fast as possible. Some like to actually enjoy the ride.