Scott uses *Certified Labs* Synthetic Oil northamerica.certifiedlabs.com/products-motor-oils.html Our follow up video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pq16pLmC27a4mnk.html

I'm 70 years old and i find it hilarious that when i was young people were discussing and even arguing about engine oils and change intervals.I see that nothing has changed. I change my oil twice a year regardless of mileage with synthetic. Last time i changed it had only 3500Klm on it. With the pandemic i didn't drive much. I just made sure i had enough toilet paper to last until i'm 89.

Nothing like the internet to pick apart every word of someone that is talking openly. We must always remember editing and context. Makes people reluctant to talk on camera. This guy has loads of hands on knowlage....Thanks for the great videos

Being an Oilfield Mechanic for decades and working with both types of oil I personally found that synthetic oil is best in all applications

My old Ford Tempo is self changing. I just add a Litre once a month all is good. 😂🤣

The main “problem” with synthetic oil is all the people who believe it’s magic and never change it

I'd let that guy rebuild my engines any time. Honest, knowledgeable and experienced. The real answer for all this oil crap is the same as it's always been - preventative maintenance works. I change my oil and filter every 4000 miles in my car and 3000 in my bike and have never had a problem. No fancy oil, just regular Valvoline 10W-40 and name brand filters.

Tl;dr: the guy is saying that people who use synthetics go way too long between oil changes. Saved you a half hour.

8 min. In and had to say that this man knows his stuff. Ive worked in an automotive/diesel machine shop for years. What hes saying is the truth. Spoken from experience. Anyways love your content guys

A big thing with synthetic oil that people miss is that if they want more miles with the oil they need an oil filter that's up to that task, I've literally seen people go 10k with synthetic but they still had a filter rated to 5

I thought everyone in the north used maple syrup. 🧐

Project Farm has a great series where he tested a ton of a different types of synthetic oil.

As a shadetree mechanic, this video was very helpful. I never let my oil changes go that long, and always wondered why the manufacturer would claim such a long interval between simple maintenance. Just getting me to go from 3k miles to 5k miles was like pulling my own tooth.

Rich this was perfect, absolutely love the discussion and the back and forth. I could listen this type of content all day keep it up.

I change my oil once a year on my 05 Silverado. It gets 99% highway miles and only 6000 miles a year. It looks superb under the valve covers after 15 years of ownership. Running Mobil 1

I used to work for an oil importer. We had one of the engineers explain the difference between synthetic and mineral. It comes down to film thickness and film strength. Mineral oil has a high film thickness and lower film strength and better for larger clearance engines specifically cast iron bore. Synthetic oils have lower film thickness and high film strength and better for tighter clearanced engines specifically more modern engines or chrome plated, electro plated bores like in off road motorcycles. In my old Toyota diesel I use mineral and change every 5000km.

A big takeaway I get from this is: Short drives ruin cars, as does going over your oil changes, especially in combination.

Okay, two more things real quick. 1. I just stumbled on these guys and they're awesome. No better way to get a gear head engineer distracted and wasting a Saturday morning that starting a conversation about engine oil. 2. I see a lot of discussion about how long sythetic oil will last. Not to distract from these guys, but Engineering Explained did a great video about engine oil, the additives, and what goes into a 20,000 mile oil.

"engine sounds good" bellows smoke out like a chimney. lol

Bottom line previous owner abused that engine. Oil type use is insignificant.

"It's so slippery it reduces the rotational mass" uhhhh what. That is either misspoken or a complete misunderstanding.

If there's one thing I've learned, it's that where a person stands on engine oil is primarily faith-based and arguing about it changes as many minds as arguing about other matters of faith.

Although I agree about the short drives, you need to use your car when you need to use your car. The maintenance should match the driving habits. If you do frequent short trips, then the solution might just be to change the oil twice as often.

My friend Marvin was a Master Mechanic and he always bought whatever oil that was on sale. He never had an oil related engine failure.

"That's the whole purpose of synthetic, It saturates everything...." Well hell, here I thought the whole purpose was to have uniform hydrocarbon chain lengths. For what it's worth I've pulled apart quite a few '60's and '70s windsors and clevelands that I'll guarantee never saw a drop of synthetic oil and many had the same dark staining. I think it has everything to do with the solids collecting in the oil and depositing on surfaces, not so much the oil. I've got a Coyote I've owned since new, all but one oil change has been according to the oil life monitor, a peek under the valve covers reveals clean aluminum.

This is one of the best videos I've seen in a long time. Great subjects and a knowledgeable guest. Do more w him.

Give me a thumbs up if you spent 20 minutes rummaging through comments.

Amsoil synthetic has been my go to for years. Amazing oil. Real synthetic.

Great to see two KZfaqr’s and mechanics (The Skid Factory & De Boss Garage) who are on top their game supporting each other and us Aussie’s from the other side of the globe!

All my cars are newer and require synthetic. I change the oil and rotate tires, every 5k. Oil is cheaper that an new engine

I had the pleasure of being in charge of the lubrication program for our plants numerous heavy gearboxes and pumps. In 1990 I began a switch to synthetics. Each gearbox was drained, flushed and examined for any metal filings. They were refilled with synthetic and monitored every 6 months for filings and viscosity. The data gathered showed that we could extend oil changes, thus reducing costs, by 1 year in many cases. I loved your rebuild of the Coyote engine and the info shared. I have an 2020 F150 5.0. It has a lovely, low growl when you hit the accelerator. It's waaayyy more truck than I will ever need, but at 67, it was kind of a bucket list thing.

I use royal purple in my LS2 and have for 10 years. I change every 4000 miles. I will not wait 15,000 miles like some say you can.

That's wild, I thought I was the only one who swore by Clevite Tri-Metal bearings!? Nice! It's great to hear someone else say it.

I have had a many old timers say the same thing.Change the oil more often.Oil is cheaper to replace than an engine.Its all about the maintenance.Thanks for the info & tips.

You mean "we'll save that oil brand info for when that company pays me to say their name".

I think I would say "polymerization" instead of "crystallization"

Oh I change the oil all the time. These geniuses use full synthetic and it's a blend. Amsoil is 100% synthetic and it's expensive and I still change early.One incident was I took my wifes Mitsubishi in for a minor recall and they had to take the head valve cover off. The service manager came into the waiting room and said come with me to the service area. The Mechanic ask me what kind of oil was I using and I told him Amsoil. The inside of my wifes motor looked like a shiney nickel. 😁

Ha, got ya! @ 2:45 you called the PCV a PVC. In one way or another, I've been getting grease under my fingernails for about 40 years, and to this day I still get it mixed up and call the "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" a PVC. I'm happy to see it's not only me!

It's real tough not to accidentally say PVC from habit when talking about positive crankcase ventilation

Great content. I wasn’t aware manufacturers were now using aluminium over tri-metal bearings.

Dude, you can't say "I thought this oil was so good that I've run it exclusively ever since", and then not share the brand!

I always run the cheapest oil possible - as long as it meets the API service rating and has the donut on the bottle I don't worry about magical claims - I also wouldnt ever go more than ~5000 MAX (and preferably 3,000-4,000 miles) regardless of what interval they recommend

When I bought my first car , my father lectured me about oil changes. My 1969 Galaxie 500/390 was to get a fresh fill of 10w30 every 3000 miles (5000km) My 2018 Escape 1.5L 4cyl requires 5w20 synthetic but I still change it every 3000 miles (5000km) I have used Quaker State since my father sold it at his garage. I never lost an engine due to lubrication problems. You sounded like my father when you emphasized proper maintenance.

Great vid boys. I felt for Scott on the last one. There was way more digression than was necessary with some of the comments. Good to clear it all up. He can build my engine any day.

Anyone else thinks this guy is Kenny Schraeders doppelganger?? Its like Kenny had a twin he's unaware of!

I enjoyed your talk. very interesting. Myself I switched to synthetic when I lived in northern Quebec/Labrador and we had lots and I mean lots of -30 -40 weather. And eevn plugged in engines would run a fair amount of time with no oil pressure indicated. But What turned me on to the Synthetic was an oil injected 2 cycle snowmobile (Yamaha) I used to leave the oil for the injection system under the back step and when I needed to fill the injection tank The oil wouldn't pour from the bottle. Made me wonder how long it took for the running engine to warm the oil until it would flow. I tried one of the first synthetic oils that I could get my hands on and in the same temperature range it was pourable and had fast indicated oil pressure. I have been a believer ever since.

1. Changing pistons or skimming the head/block has no effect on displacement, because... 2. The volume of the space between the piston and head at TDC is not included in the displacement. Everything about computers and emissions I agree with because this is about not changing the compression ratio, and that IS affected by the design of the piston and/or skimming the head/block.

You should do a “Everything wrong with a 6.7 Cummins”!

i'm a retired mechanic & you guys nailed it, lack of maintenance!. synthetic is ok if you live in AZ where the average temp is 110, then it helps.. i have been using non-synthetics my entire life & never lost an engine or worn out prematurely due to the oil I've used. change oil regularly, its cheap insurance.

Great addendum and explanation just how an engine works in todays engineering climate, vs the old days !

I use mixed fleet full synthetic diesel engine oil in everything.

I use full synthetic and change every 3k miles

I've run mobil one synthetic for over 25 yrs , i have had very good results , i had a 350 go 537,000 miles i tore it down to check on the condition of the engine, all was good i put some new parts in and gaskets, that engine after the rebuild in an S10 won king of the track, and king of the hill titles drag racing , I've got better mpg, ran cooler,saved money on oil changes, overall a better product than normal oil.

In 90% of vehicles where semi synthetic is recommended..full synthetic is ideal upgrade! Used Mobil1 for 20yrs an now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for 10yrs in my recent GTDI Ecoboost engines. Run phenomenal!

You guys will love this. Lol. I work for a farmer in south Louisiana. He's a 97 year old WWII vet that owns a tugboat company. He doesn't believe in changing the oil in his tractors or his lawn equipment. He says the only reason he will change the oil on his equipment is when its "dirty". His oldest tractor is a '76. He told me he has only changed the oil in that tractor maybe 6 times. And yes, he is the original owner. Lol. All of his tractors have never failed due to engine problems. Amazing!

Very well done. Makes good sense. I’m synthetic and yes combustion engine byproducts destroy even the best of lubricants. Long OLM also creates fuel dilution thereby you need earlier oil changes for instance city driving more than highway use. Good common sense information that you’ve brought out.

Seems like a synthetic blend changed at 4k miles would be the best of both worlds. That what I do in my 203,000 mile 5.4 3v. Still on original timing components.

The build up of layers of oil that bakes onto the engine parts is called polymerization, a lot of people refer to it as varnish.

Thanks for the clarification. I own a First Gen 5.0 and you scared the Sh*( outta me. I keep up on my maintenance I change mine every 6500 and I do short runs mostly. But I live in Texas so this video made me feel better. Thanks. BTW I love my 5.0.

What's the "fuel mileage" thing he speaks of? Shouldn't it be fuel kilometerage, eh?

Good conversation guys. I'm an old diesel jockey with roughly five million miles behind me,almost all of which was long haul,550-700 miles per day. My favorite motor to get the job done with the least effort was the Cat 3406B,but the most efficient and best money maker for me was a 14 liter Series 60 Detroit that I sold when I retired with just under 1,700,000 miles on it. I replaced all outer engine components multiple times and replaced all of the injectors twice,but never did an in-frame on it. It was still running like new and holding good oil pressure when I sold it. I ran 15-40 Rotella dinosaur oil and changed oil every 12,000-13,000 miles and it was usually down a couple of quarts when I changed it. I was prepared and expecting to do an in-frame from around 900,000 miles on and watched for a drop in oil pressure or any excess metal in the oil,but it just kept going and going.

The easiest way to end the debate on when to change oil, is to do oil samples. That’s the only way to do it 100% correctly.

When asked how often they change their oil most people lie.

What he said about maintenance is 100% true. Worked in a lube shop and god some of the vehicles that came in you could tell where rode hard and put up wet with no thought about later.

My Father in Law who's job was in Gears and Lubrication at N.A.S.A. always told me never mix oil brands because even if both oils are top of the line each one may have additives that when mixed with a different oil they can become corrosive and cause damage. It's ok to add a quart of different oil if needed if your going to change your oil in a day or two but not long term.

Your info in this video is very good about oil. I have studied oil for many years. Every oil starts with a total base number or TBN. Longer life oils generally have a higher TBN and better overall additive package. The only way to know for certain if you have used up the TBN which can start from 5 or 6, and go all the way up to 15 or higher on some long life oils, is to test it. The TBN gets used (drops) very fast on worn engines that are run short trips consistently, especially in cold weather, because the water vapor and acids from the combustion gas gets past the rings and goes into the crankcase oil. If the oil never or rarely gets up to the boiling temp of water for a significant period of time, then the oil's additives get used up faster neutralizing all the acidic byproducts of combustion, dropping the oil's TBN quite fast. Once it gets below 2 or 1, that is when the deposits start forming on engine parts, clogging up tiny lifter ports, seizing up rings in their ring lands with a resulting drop in compression. Hope this helps.

Basically, multi valve engines are, generally, breathing though a bigger hole. So, for a given displacement, a bigger hole tends to favor torque at higher rpm. The main advantage to pushrod engines are smaller outside footprint , lower center of gravity, and lower cost (to a point).

I always run diesel oil in my gas engine. It's old, carbureted, with flat tappet cam. No sludge whatsoever. Clean as the day I put it together.

Tbh I feel like Richards shorts need to be more filthy, this isn’t Rich.

If you bore an engine out larger it doesn't have more displacement, where the hell did this guy get his weed from??? And if the oil doesn't get up to temperature how the hell does it crystallize?

I was a dealership tech at the time when the push for synthetic oils was on. The dealership had a quarterly customer appreciation event and I was the tech that got to explain to the new customers that just because the owner's manual for your new Ford says 7500 or 10000 miles between services, that is not a good idea. In the Midwest US, and an agricultural area as well, we still see ~120 F temp swings throughout the year, and lots of dust in the air at planting and harvest, etc. We still recommended 3-5k miles between changes. This also helps keep track of everything else on your car that wears, like tires, belts, brakes, filters, etc.

People give me crap for changing Mobile 1 EP at 4k miles. Thank you guys. Remember also lot of Synthetic is only highly refined conventional oil thanks to Castrol and a stupid judge.

I found the best part from the previous videos was reading everyone's different opinions.

dead on with the oil it's like seasoning a cast iron pan you need to warm it up season it very very lightly and then let it cool and it will slowly coat. if you heat a cast-iron pan up and put a really massive amount of oil on it you just get this sludge sticky feeling all over the pan. Great video good explanation.

Whether using conventional or synthetic, do it at about 75% of what manufacturers recommend (for instance, if they state in severe conditions to change synthetic every 4k, change it 3k instead). Your engine will last forever....unless it's a GM of course.

3.4 GM venture mini van. Changed oil in it when it says. Around 7500 miles. Conventional oil. Has 299,xxx miles on it. Still runs great. You guys changing ever 3000 to 5000 miles OPEC loves you.

Dang... Sounds like some guys were telling Scott that he stole their childhood or something. What I heard was that I should change my synthetic oil regularly if I'm short tripping. I was already way ahead of him.

"Bore a 350 over .030 and it makes a 355, doesn't work like that" Yes it actually works like that.....

Interesting discussion from two guys who have the practical experience. Wife’s Volvo XC60: The recommended Castrol Edge 5W30, but every 7K miles with a Volvo or Mann filter, not the recommended 10K. My Dodge Cummins 24V with 377K miles: DELO 15W40 with CamGuard (research it) every 5K miles with a Fleetguard filter. Doesn’t burn oil. Why CamGuard? Well, I have been running the aviation version in my airplane since early 2007. Besides the obvious additives, proven by independent lab evaluations and excellent oil analysis results, it has a seal conditioner. My IA is impressed with with how dry the engine is after being built in 1991 with almost 1400 hours on it. Even to this day, it only burns a quart every 8-12 hours. In the airplane, air-cooled engine world, that’s good. Back to the Cummins...no sludge or discoloration under the valve cover, doesn’t burn oil and the few little typical Cummins oil leaks have reduced. I did cure the tappet cover leaks with a billet cover, though. That will never leak again. I began running CamGuard Diesel version because of the results I’ve had with my aircraft engine. It isn’t a snake oil...it’s an additive that oil manufacturers blend into their oils like PDD’s proprietary diesel oil. Do the research. CamGuard works as advertised. www.aslcamguard.com Edit: I’ve seen that brown discoloration in vehicles running Castrol brand oil. Oil change intervals were frequent. 3K in bikes and 5K in cars.

Kijiji sounds like my girlfriend named it while being tickled aggressively.

I will say that when I had an oil filter fail and I wiped out my mains racing a Mustang Cobra, I attribute the ultimate survival of that engine to full synthetic. Full disclosure: I like zinc. I'm not saying no other oil would have saved my engine, I'm saying it was more likely to have been saved by that synthetic. But I did consult with my parts suppliers and machinists and planned the build with synthetic in mind, I just didn't decide one day to give it a whirl.

I grew up on a farm. We bought Quaker State 10w-30 in 55 Gallon drums. Changes oil in tractors, trucks and even out cars with it.

I’m very old and when young the argument was detergent or non detergent oil for the car.

I run 5w20 full synthetic Kendall liquid titanium with motorcraft filter in my 3.5 duratec and change it out every 4000-5000miles.. I don't care if I'm changing too soon..i rather spend on an oil change than replacing an engine.

I own a gen1 3.5 ecoboost. When timing chains get done you upgrade to the better oil pump. It's fact these guys are correct. Oil change intervals are essential and oil filter matters more than you would think. If you want it to last

Glad I found this video, thanks guys for this makes me think twice about how I run my Plug-in hybrid. Maybe I won't bitch so much about Manufacturer asking me to come in every 5000k km even though it is synthetic. As mostly I drive Ev and drag my gas engine around occasionally using the engine for short trips. Thanks for the tips.

Synthetic oil is far superior to conventional, my father does NMR for a living. We ran samples of Mobil and Amsoil synthetics along with Pennzoil as a conventional. The chemicals are far superior in synthetic. With regular filter changes they will last 8 to 10 times as long. Synthetics are designed to operate at a much higher temperature.

I’m going with Royal Purple, based on the background on the thumbnail background is Royal purple’s purple. Also all oil manufacturers have reps. not just Amsoil. Especially if you have a shop as these two gentlemen do.

Just goto projectfarm channel, he has done oil tests .. I’ve been running super tech oil from Walmart way before he even made the video. And precisely what I thought, it’s just as good as the expensive shit on the market. I check my oil(s) every time I fuel, i smell it, I check the color and if it’s getting a dark hue ? That weekend I am under my truck to change it out. It’s simple , and easy enough to do

I started running left over synthetic oil from my cars in my lawnmower and snowblower and it really sold me on the extra cost. The oil would be black in literally 3-4 uses and with synthetic is still amber after almost a full season. For the larger zero turn mower engines we used landscaping the electric start was much easier during early spring and late fall during cold mornings.

I’m amazed at the “gossip” about synthetic oil. If there was a problem with an engine, it was the owner/operator and not the superior lubricant. I have used synthetic for nearly sixty years. Mobil One became available in the 70s. Do research.

I am pretty consistent on changing my car oil every 3k miles, or 3 months. I drive a beat up old 1998 toyota camry. I bought it with 200k miles on it and now it has 250k on it.

My truck calls for 10k miles between changes. Screw that. 6k miles and it's off to the recycling center.

I am old! running geer wear out on pickups before engine failure. 3000 mile or 6 months to one year max. Oil change with Better quality filters. I do an unusual thing. I blend conven, or blend.50/50 with syn. Normally same brand. I increased viscocity a bit over time. 2 gens running 24 hours for a full year now after 500 hour timer. Still running both. I go 100 hour to oil change. One gets a new carb and fuel pump with starter. Valve adjust. Lol 500 hours ave. on gens??? Lol I'm doing both. Trucks get a motor flush if short, cold runs. Gens get a carbon clean with spark arrestor check. Works for me!

I'm gonna guess Amsoil, as it won the Project Farm Oil Championship.

I haul oil and let me tell you only paying for the name because most of these customers like walmart kmart loews buy there oil buy the bulk and just put there name on car manufacturers do the samething.

I've always been concerned about our 2013 Ford C-Max Energi. My wife only changes the oil when the "change oil" notification shows up on the dash. This happens roughly every 45,000 to 70,000 km. The engine calls for fully synthetic 0w20 oil and that is what it has run since new (we bought it still on the 1st oil change in 2014). During the winter months especially, the underside of the oil fill cap gets massive amounts of white sludge building up on it. I've changed the thermostat twice and the second time even tested 4 different thermostats and installed the hottest one (close to 205°F is when it opens) and it still builds up this sludge. I'd estimate that at least 90% of the miles on the car are rush-hour type stop and go driving so the engine really struggles to get up to temperature, especially during the cold Canadian winter months. Because it is a hybrid, in stop and go rush-hour traffic, the engine only runs when accelerating moderately hard so the heater keeps sucking the heat out of the engine (the electric water pump runs with the engine off). I've pulled over and checked the temperature with an infrared thermometer gun and at highway speeds it does get to just under 200°F in the winter, but in rush-hour traffic the engine often cools to as low as 120°F to 140°F. Based on all of this I expected the engine to have turned into an oil burner, like every single previous car my wife has driven to/from work. Would you also expect it have turned into an oil burner with major engine issues? Oddly - it hasn't... I checked yesterday and it now has 398,000 km on it and it still runs like a top and the engine has never been opened (no changing of timing belt, nothing). We have never seen the oil level get down to the "add" mark, although a couple of times with more than 50,000 km on the oil I've added 1/2 a liter to top it up (my wife never checks the oil). In reality the engine has had literally zero maintenance other than rare oil and filter changes and the car overall has had very little too. Because the car uses regenerative braking (hybrid) we've been getting away with leaving the brakes untouched until they start grinding, roughly every 135,000 to 200,000 km. Then I replace both the rotors and pads (and one rear caliper that seized). It has had some of the steering components recently replaced, plus one wheel bearing, Another wheel bearing has been a bit noisy for about 50,000 km. It's still on original ball joints, CV joints, shocks, springs, HVAC, has no oil/fluid leaks, etc. I did a partial drain and refill of the coolant (both electrical cooling system and engine cooling system - it has 2 systems) and brake fluid (sucked out what I could and refilled with fresh fluid) a few years ago (around 250,000 km). The transmission fluid is still original, as is any other fluid if there is any. Thinking about it I don't recall changing the spark plugs ever - yikes... They are probably worn down to nothing. Combining the incredible fuel economy (~4 L/100 km overall average) and lack of maintenance costs, this has been by far the cheapest car to operate that we've ever had. Although a bit dirty now, the interior is still in exceptionally good condition too (no tears in the leather seats and literally everything still works). It also has a luxurious, comfortable interior that is both quiet and has a very good audio system.

Oh come on what oil is he running?? I have to know

I would love to know the oil used in the 12,000 hour Case.

So I've actually felt the HP/torque increase on my manual cars swapping from conventional to synthetic, it was significant enough that I actually felt it. I've been running it ever since in all my vehicles. 💯👌