Thank you so much! these little tips saved me tons of time in broken bolts and bleeding knuckles. Much Appreciated.

Extremely helpful! Same power loss occurred with me. Implemented your suggestions, one by one, starting with the fuel filter, then the updated lift pump and finally with the magic bullet (the last two from the Hungry Diesel). In my case, the o-ring had become enlarged on the FSS and so slipped down into the fuel passage where it blocked the fuel flow. FYI the Torx bit needed to move the plate is T30 and the Allen Head socket needed was a 5mm. I have an automatic transmission in my '93 and so I had to contend with an additional mounting bolt/location on the throttle assembly bracket. Not an issue. However, it did present a problem when trying to remove the top Torx headed bolt from the pump bracket. My solution was to use a Dremmel wheel to grind just a slight amount of relief from the bracket to allow just enough clearance to remove the bolt. An added step, but an easy solution if you are patient. Finally, when removing some of the bolts/hardware from the various brackets, be aware that some trucks may use SAE bolts and others may use Metric. Overall, your video was extremely helpful! Your channel is one of the best on KZfaq for the DIY mechanic for these First Gen Dodge/Cummins trucks! Keep up the great work!

Mine has left me stranded three times over the years. Finally just gutted the solonoid and use a cable shut off,. But this sounds like a great fix and I'll likely order it !!

Thank you so much for this! Worked perfectly! No more popping the hood and looking like an amateur 😊

Hi Tim, Thank you again for all the help!! For the last three day's my truck was belching black smoke and terrible idle at start up. Today after reconnecting the wires to the FSS, the truck started and ran like my truck again, it was as you said, the Magic Bullet.

Once again man what an awesome video! I love that fact you take the time to show the step by step process keep them coming, I’ve got a whole video library full of them...oh btw I found a kick down cable 👍👍!

Thanks as always. I recently watched a video of someone else doing this and came away wondering , what ? Then I watched your instructional video and VOILA !!!!

I have the fuel cutoff hooked to a kill switch for a tractor in the cab. I like it because I can pull my keys out of the ignition and the motor still runs. Makes it easy to let it warm up in the morning with the doors locked or easy to take the keys out to get a gate and leave it running

Great video, by the way have you figured out an easy way to turn off the Anti-Lock light issue (wiring from the anti-lock sensor on the third member) to the sensor box behind the glove box. My Pickup is a 91 (pre 91.5) non intercooled D 250 (2WD) ? besides just unplugging the box behind the glove box. The dodge fix is a real pain in the Gass to run another wire from the from the anti-lock solenoid mounted on the frame clear in the back all the way to the anti-lock control box behind the glove box. maybe you have done a video on this issue? just checkin

My neighbor was telling me a story about when a wire fell off of this solenoid and she was going downhill with 4 horses in the trailer behind her. She was not impressed about the engine suddenly without warning shutting off in this situation.

I did this upgrade yesterday on my 91.5 D250. Actually I did it 3 times. first time my truck would not shut down unless I cycled the key back on and then off again, then it shut down. So I took it back out and extended the spring length. Then it would try to turn the truck off but it still ran at a slower underpowered idle. So I took it back out and put the spring back to its original length and did some measuring and close observation of the old and new pin and discovered the new pin's brass end was a bit larger in diameter and the end of the pin was not countersank enough. So it chucked it up in my cordless drill and used sandpaper and then scotch brite to sand it down and polish it. I then used a countersink without a pilot to sink it deeper on the end. Now it works as the original one did. I only had to take the throttle linkage off and unplug the three wire connectors, they all had blade connectors and used a 15/16 crows, foot 6 inch extension and ratchet to remove and install mine.The trick is to install the crows foot first with the drive end facing the engine head then assemble the extension onto the crows foot between the pump and head. Stay Ultra Maga!

I highly recommend The Hungry Diesel. Had my Ve pump rebuilt through them after it wouldn't start back up after getting the truck up to operating temperature unless I poured water on the injection pump. Stock rebuild but set at max fuel and it's got good power and idles waay smoother. Absolutely love that crew Cab. Great video, keep up the good work.

So glad you shared this video ...thank you !!

While you had the FSS gutted did you leave the wires all hooked up still? Thanks dude!

Good stuff. Every time I see them workbenches I get ideas lol

Awesome vid just bought my pin!! Keep being awesome

Would this blow a fuse if it failed causing the truck to not start?

my truck is not starting was driving just fine then sputtered and died and will crank but not fire, its a 91 and I have gone through just about all i can think of but on my fss there is only one wire on it could this be the reason if so what wire is what

whhats the rubbere part on the right of the pump not connected to anything mine is leaking from there and cant find anything on it

I see you’ve had your fingers in there before. Those trucks came stock with a spade connector to the solenoid, you have a ring connector on a stud. I know because I had an intermittent loss of power issue. I called Jim Leonard a retired Cummins mechanic who I had met years before. He instantly knew the the problem immediately. I just crimped the connector with pliers an never had another issue. Some years later on a caravan camping trip to Baja my friend had his 92 shut down just above El Rosario. He started looking at fuel filters and fuses. I wiggled that wire and saw the connector was loose. There is so much vibration in the first generation all kinds of things work loose. After replacing front brake pads and putting new fluid in the system I checked the master cylinder over several days. Always had to add just a bit. I couldn’t see any issues with the calipers or wheel cylinders. Eventually I found it. The two lines coming out of the master cylinder have coils in them. They were close enough that when the engine was running the two pulsed together. It had worn a pin prick hole. One new line with better clearance solved that one. Keep up the great videos, thanks RD

Thank you so much for another very helpful and detailed video on possible issue with my truck I am going to see if this is the issue tommorrow my truck died on way to work I thought wire fell off the FSS like it has done before but wasn't the issue cranks over fine but won't start

Saved me a bunch of trouble!!!

Hey man I know it's off topic but would you be able to help me figure out some stuff on my truck. It's a 1993 dodge d-250 with a 12 valve automatic. I've never owned one before so I'm lost

Thank you from spruce grove Alberta

does anybody know why the bracket is there and can it be just left off ? , thanks

Mine had an issue where the solenoid would engage randomly while I was driving, killing the truck.. Must have been loose wiring now that I think about it, but I went to manual shutoff and solved the problem that way... Could have been my iffy wiring from fusible link delete..

I've had the same problem except in the reverse. The Deathcharger wouldn't start. I gutted it and run a cable shut off. Since the Deathcharger isn't my daily I'm fine with it, but the ole COD may need it haha.

I was going to just move that bracket but that one torx at the bottom stripped out. Now I have to cut that piece off. I was really hoping for this to be a smooth and not so complicated task

Great video Tim!

Could you use a regular hex head bolts instead of the torq and Allen head bolts? Seems like a socket would be better

Tim do by chance remember what size that hex head is on the sliding plate ? Thanks.

Great Tip ! I will use that upgrade on mine. Thanks !

Driving on Kansas roads. Truck suddenly acts like it ran out of fuel. Pull over. Sit. Start her up again. Drive another 25 miles. Repeat this 3x. Now in an RV park making repairs. With certainty it is the FSS . Filter is clean, pump is good and connections checked and rechecked. I will in the short term toss a kill switch/cable on it, but once back home I will replace the solenoid AND the pin. It looks as though you also good a new solenoid body that you put that magic bullet in. Is that the case or you just cleaned the old one up good? If a replacement, what did you use? Seeing all kinds of possibiliites with reviews all over the place. This is a solenoid that came with my new VE pump from Eric not quite 2 years ago. I would have expected the solenoid to last a bit longer than that but maybe they routinely fail? What say you? As always, THANK YOU for the vids. Saved me on that bracket info. Could not figure out how in the heck I was gonna get a wrench in there!!

Curious, is it possible to get a 15/16" socket on the solenoid ? Thanks Tim.

Another Awesome vid! thank you

Hi Tim Great Video!! What did you do about the KSB wiring once you disconnected the FSS, during cold starts you need this, as I found out after I deleted mine, as they are both connected through the same wiring. Thank you!!

Have you ever dealt with the this issue? One day I was accelerating in my truck quickly and all of a sudden the truck cut off and white smoke started billowing out the tailpipe. I got all of my injectors tested and they checked out, and I replaced my fuel filter and lift pump. Now whenever I accelerate quickly the truck will blow white smoke and cut off. I’m hoping it’s not a cracked block or head gasket leak but I don’t know. Any insight you might know would help me

I wonder if the solenoid can partially fail an allow engine to run above idle but stutter and shut off at idle. I think they should have used a much more robust and reliable system. Rubber chunks in the heart of the engine down stream of fuel filter,,, fail.

I have replaced fuel pump and filter and the truck after it gets down the road about 6 or 7 miles does not idle and shuts off and will not start till it cools off thought it might be this sensor

Where is this plunger at? Can you show it in your next video?

Just ordered one, put the fly wheel on today for a first start. After sitting awhile it stopped making any plunging noises while 12 v is applied 😅

My fuel gauge just sorta slides back and forth constantly. I also occasionally have issues with the other gauges in the cluster (speedometer just stops working sometimes) so I was thinking maybe it’s an electrical issue, but I’m not sure where to start looking for an issue. I’m not a mechanic and I’m learning as I go. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Im Looking for a kdp kit and cant find the oem seal one. Which kit do you reccomend?

@decent garage I had electric issues and did a fuseable link delete and still have a crank but no start problem and I think it could have to do with the fss is there a fuse or something I can check

already use the cooper but still cant off my truck any solution sir?

So true good 1

Would this work on the White truck?

Where to the wires from the fss go to?

While my truck is a gasser, I have gas leaking into my oil. Could this be the cause?

My o ring somehow lodged onto the tip

You can buy a brass tipped plunger for 30 bucks on eBay. It’s what I have and it works good

My PCM is fried and idk where to source another do you have any ideas?

Nice one 😉👍🏻

Can these solenoids fail shut? And cause the engine to not start?

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Needing a cruise control unit and linkage for this set up anyone here can help.

Use promo code decen1stgen at wwwthehungrydiesel.com. Remember it's good for 10% off your entire order, not just the Magic Bullet!

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