Great video and detailed explanation. I wished every video would show a step by step troubleshooting process

Great job guys common sense show

I just spent time and money chasing this problem myself, because getting it to a shop would have been difficult, and because I like to fix stuff. I did start from the power end, first replacing the battery (just because it was several years old). I wasn't hearing any sounds that suggested a solenoid issue. Then after watching a bunch of KZfaq videos, I became convinced that the park brake module was bad. Those aren't cheap and they aren't easy to replace. (Perhaps no surprise that several of the videos in fact had to do with jumping or shorting the module switches, to disable the brake. I wasn't keen on doing that. I wanted a fix.) Could hear the PTO clutch "click" when that button was pulled, so figured that was probably okay. Mystery was that the park brake disengaged when I turned the key to "On," even with the control levers in the extended "Park" position. After turning the key off, the module would again actuate -- but only after 5-7 seconds -- and re-set the brake. So, okay, the new module DOES work (and the old one probably did, too -- glad I kept it), but it's getting bad instructions. I went in to test the switches, starting on the left. I discovered that the wire connector to the switch was loose. I cleaned it up (grass out, dielectric spray on) and reattached it. Mower started right up and runs fine, now that the park brake actuator isn't getting mixed signals. Long, circuitous route to a simple fix, but I got some new parts on the machine and learned a lot, so at least there's that. I'm going to re-post this as a comment to some of the other videos I watched, in case it might be useful to others with the no-start problem.

I had a 2017 bought bran new was an electronic nightmare everything went wrong now I have a toro 5000 so far so good

Can I suggest you engage PTO if it’s electric when checking charging voltage. This puts a “Load” on the system which will expose bad stators, diodes and poor electrical connections. Good video for DIY s. I retired after 50 yrs car repair and now fix mowers. All this was basic for me and your video is right on. Don’t forget the basics and the ground side of every circuit was great advice.

Thanks for the clear explanation! So if I jumped 12V straight to the starter, I've not just bypassed the solenoid, I've bypassed ALL the safety switches? I've replaced my starter, but still, it moves 1/4" and stops. The flywheel turns by hand and spins freely with plugs out. What else could be keeping the flywheel from engaging with the starter? It had been working 2 days earlier

Thanks, I have a Toro like this model and a good battery but I just hear clicking sound when I turn the key

Toro time cutter ss35 cranks but won’t start ?

I have a brand new mover that won’t start. There are black caps on the springs underneath the seat.. I noticed there are no black caps underneath the seat of your toro mower..do I need to remove those caps?

liuks aparat,

I charge my battery & when i turn the key it still hear it click,,,the cables to the solenoid are hotish & wire to starter is hotish also but still not rank over....would you assume it's the starter.....If the wire to starter is hottest,, then must be power to starter, correct ?

My battery is new but won’t keep the charge what could be the problem?

I had yhe same problem starter would not kick i.n keep clicking would kick in put a new starter on problem solved

90% of the problem is the shitty parking brake module and you didn’t even mention it?

I have a toro timecutter 4225 and when I turn the key nothing happens. But when I turn the key and hold it for a few seconds eventually it will start.

The guy brought-it into the “shop” for a dead battery…😕