Greetings, Kyle. You're the first person to ever state that to me, and I appreciate it very much. Yes, I did these videos out of love for the genre. Many content providers today will not do anything that is not profitable. They approach every video from the point of monetization or sponsorship. They will not speak their minds honestly because they know they will alienate or offend a percentage of their base, resulting in fewer views and lost subscriptions, and to call out a product as bad means the company making it will never offer a sponsorship. My point is that KZfaq has become yet another PSYOP channel. It's mostly vanilla, lukewarm, fake content. Thanks for your very generous comment. Be well.

Thank you kindly! Wishing you well.

Greetings, Materia. It is also a lot of fun. Enjoy your endeavor into 110. Wishing you well.

Greetings, Seamus. You will have a boatload of fun. The most important things to consider is to watch closely the temperature of your chemicals and your development times. If you get those right you're 95% there.

Wishing you the best.

Greetings, Howard. Sure. I scan after developing using an Epson V600. Once I have digital images I just upload to Walgreens and pick them up the same day. Much more economical than an actual darkroom to print images. At least at my small-scale needs. Thanks so much. Be well, sir.

Thanks, Brian. Wishing you well.

Hi, dudo33. I got mine at B&H, I think. But you can check Film Photography Project or Freestyle Photo in LA/Hollywood. I bought from all these and Adorama over the years and always had positive experiences. Thanks and be well.

I'm not sure I fully understand, but if you exposed only a few frames to light, then only those few frames should be ruined. The rest of the film should be okay, both the "used" film on the take-up side and the "fresh" film on the unused side. They are both in lightproof chambers. Wishing you well.

Hello. Can you look on the backside of the canister to check if the backing paper and film are visible? If not then they have been fully wound onto the takeup spool. There will not be a "tail" of film and paper to snag with a hook. You can break the plastic cartridge, just be sure to do so inside a changing bag so as not to expose the film to light. Also beware that the film is going to look dreadful after 20 years. That look is actually fashionable these days, so it might be a blessing in disguise. Best wishes to you.

@@room111photography5 Nope, no visible film. Would I be correct in assuming that the film will stay curled up in there if I pull the paper out? If so, I guess I'll break out the dark change bag. Most of it is Kodak Gold 200 which can be somewhat forgiving. Of course, that's been my experience with it in 35mm. I have 2 bars of Kodacolor VR, which were some of my first. I believe those were from the mid 80s. Not sure how those will turn out. I've had varying outcomes with that film in 35mm. The results should be interesting, either way. If they turn out poorly, I'll just have to get a Lomography account & post them. Lol!

@@ikonseesmrno7300 "If they turn out poorly, I'll just have to get a Lomography account & post them. Lol! " Appropriately funny! Either way the results will be interesting.

@@room111photography5 If they turn out, I'll let you know. Many thanks for the help & have a great New Year!

I would develop them as B&W. I have done this with old C41 films during lockdown, my scanner gets a decent image off them, even though B&W developed C41 looks too dense.. Or just see how the C41 process goes, you can always chuck the colour away if it turns out crap.

Greetings. I snap the cassette in two while it is inside the changing bag. More if necessary. Then I remove the film from the cassette. Be well and make art.

Greetings, bdan1. Yes, I carefully remove the film and paper by gently pulling them both out of the cartridge or cassette. Cracking the cartridge is an option, but it is awfully invasive and prone to damage the film. Thanks. Be well.

@@room111photography5 Thanks! I never liked the idea of breaking open the cartridge.

Greetings, Kyle. Let me take this two ways: 110 and 35mm, but I would imagine you are referring to 110. takeup For 35mm: The quickest way to determine if the film was taken/shot/exposed is to look for the lead. The lead is the small piece of film sticking out of the canister or cassette. If the film is sticking out, it generally means the film was never taken/shot/exposed. There is most likely nothing on the roll. No need to proceed any further. If the lead is not sticking out, it generally means it was pulled into the canister as the film was being rewound. This means the roll was probably taken/shot/exposed. In 2017 I did what you mentioned, developing three rolls of 35mm film for a friend who discovered them after 30 years of storage in his house. The images were taken in approximately 1987. The leads were inside the canister, so I knew the film had been shot/exposed. Whether 110 or 35mm, you have to develop the rolls. After development, you can hold the film up toward a light bulb or similarly outside, holding the film upward and looking through it toward the day sky. If you see images on the film, you're good. If you see no images and see just blank frames, it means the film has degraded over the years or the film was not exposed properly at time of capture, and there are no latent images on the film. I wouldn't waste my time if you see just blank frames. Developing and scanning will most likely not recover what is there. If the film is very old or the frame is shot more than plus or minus two stops from correct exposure, it generally cannot be recovered in scanning. Not with decent results, anyway. Lastly, if you see images on the developed film, you have the option of proceeding further and getting prints or digital scans. 24 years is not that bad, really. Not ideal, but certainly recoverable. There is a formula for developing old film in regard to duration of the film in various development chemicals. I cannot remember off the top of my head and I cannot find it in a quick internet search, so you might want to hunt for this formula online. I used it to develop my friend's 30 year-old film and it worked OK. He had taken his family to an amusement park and the pictures brought back memories, but getting prints made was out of the question. They would have turned out terribly, so I scanned them to digital images. Again, at least the memory of that day at an amusement park was recovered/preserved. His kids were all minors in 1987 and by 2017 had become fully grown with families of their own. My friend was really happy to get back these images. Hoped this helped. Wishing you well. Rob

I don't think there is one available commercially. Saw some stuff online but it's DIY/hacks. That's why most people opt for the Yankee. Be well and best to you.

Greetings, Avis'ad Adyatma. Thank you for your very kind words. I have a few videos here on KZfaq regarding TLR cameras and they act as tutorials to a certain degree. Please search here. Thanks again and I wish you much happiness.

Hello, Lucas. Can you still see film? Or did you rewind it all in the take-up spool?

@@room111photography5 can still see it!

@@sillygooselarry ok no problem. Keep winding until you see the tail come out of the "fresh" spool. Hopefully you didn't ruin any frames. Whatever the light hit is ruined but let's hope it's the tail of the film and you didn't ruin frame 24. Again just wind by hand until you see the tail emerge from the fresh side spool.

If the film has been fully wound into the takeup chamber, insert a strip of thin somewhat stiff material (like an old strip of 16mm/110 film) up to 5/8 inches wide into the cartridge as far as you can. Then slowly pull the backing paper and strip TOGETHER from the cartridge. When the film comes free of the chamber, grasp the film and backing paper and remove the film (in the dark, of course!). If you encounter resistance removing the strip and backing paper without the film, STOP, remove the strip alone, put the film back into the camera and advance the film about 1 inch (don't wind the backing paper end into the takeup chamber!). Then repeat the process. It may take a couple tries, but usually works for me. Terry

Greetings, Juliana. You can find it (Yankee Clipper II) at the big photo supply houses such as B&H and Adorama. It's also at Amazon and eBay. If you are committed to shopping small, some of the smaller online photo supply houses also carry it. Wishing you well.

Saudações. Respeitosamente, não vem como um kit. Eu comprei os itens individualmente.

Film, not movie

Sure, 110 film still exists. Lomography is the most common available.

Greetings, Lex. I'm very sorry, but I don't have any chemicals. I haven't developed film at home since 2019. There are labs available where you can send your film. Just do an internet search and you will find them. If I remember correctly, there are two in California and one in Kansas. Hope this helps. Wishing you health and happiness.

I guess you have no time to develop film then seeing as you have so little time between flights...

Greetings, Adrian. Yes, removing the film and backing paper from the cassette must be done inside a bag, as well as spooling the film onto a reel and placing the reel inside the tank. Once the lid is securely fastened to the tank it is lightproof. It can be removed from the bag and developed. Thanks for your post. Be well.

@@room111photography5 I may have to make a dark room for myself :) Thank you and be well to you also

@@adrianharrison5208 Hello again. I do my development at night, which negates the need for a dedicated darkroom. I can develop 35mm and MF in the day using the high quality Paterson tank, but I must do 110 at night so my kitchen is completely black except for a nigh light. I literally have every light in my apartment off. Just do it at night and save a lot of money. But you still need a changing bag for the other stuff.

Salam, Eri. Nanti hari ini saya akan melihat apakah saya dapat memilih bahasa Indonesia sebagai opsi subtitle. Jika demikian, saya akan dengan senang hati mengakomodasi Anda. Tetaplah di jalan yang lurus, teman.

Perubahan subtitle bahasa Indonesia sesuai permintaan.

I cut them into sections of 8 (3 sections of 8 images each = 24 exposure roll), and place them in 35mm sleeves. Thanks for your question. Wishing you well.