Thank you!

I am the 100th "like" for this video. I have used this product and it is good for numerous rolls. And it doesn't stink that I noticed. Use distilled water if you can because your chemical will last longer and allow more rolls to be done. That. Is. All.

Very nice, thanks for making my day better! Always happy to be here 🌷

In the 21st century where we are so spoiled with everything being instantaneous, digital, and automated, it's so good to see people still doing things the 'old fashioned' way. When I was in high school people were just starting to rave about the quality and ease of digital cameras, and I was taking photography using my dad's Nikormat. I've said it before, and I'll say it again.. I doubt I will myself get back into photography, let alone developing my own negatives, proofs, and photos...but I do not regret for a second learning these skills. Thanks for the video, Jon! oh and... just giving a shoutout- I see my chat on your screen at 5:43 lol

Personally I love it an have used it for the last 3 years with no problems.

You mixing and pouring the solution at your computer desk gave me anxiety. Haha. But, great video man!

This is very important! Stated on the website are the results for effect of different temperatures on development, if its 4°c lower than recommended (recommended film is ISO 400) you will get a 1 stop pull so the film will be ISO 200, if its 4°c hotter it will be like ISO 800 push, this is what the website states

Great vid. Music a little distracting. Thanks for making.

For those trying to learn film development generally, or how to use this monobath particularly, there a number of significant errors in the video, so: 1. Cost. The capacity is 16 rolls per liter, not the 11 rolls he states, so it is cheaper per roll processed than noted here, but compared to a conventional developer like D-76 and a fixer, it is still at least 4x more costly to use. A high price for its convenience, and not cheap to use. 2. Life. The shelf life of the monobath once mixed for use is 60 days, not 6 months or more as stated. So if you do not process 16 films in 2 months, the cost per roll gets even higher.. 3. The manufacturer says to use distilled water because monobaths are far more sensitive to pH (acidity) of the water used than a conventional developer. Tap water may work fine, but if you have hard water or a lot of loose material in your tap water, you may just be wasting $20 and some film. 4. His film wash technique at the end may wash out the tank, but it sure is not washing the film. Cinestill says to wash in a continuous water flow for 5 minutes. For its films, Kodak says 20 minutes. Whether you believe the manufacturer of the film or the chemical, what is shown here isn't doing it. If water conservation is that important for you, buy a "Hypo clearing agent" and use it as directed, saving about 75% of normal wash water usage.

Is it archival?

Nice video to explain it

Do the instructions say anything about the temperature of the water while mixing the powder with the water? If my memory going back 40 years is correct, D76 requires rather warm water for mixing. I can't seem to find any information on this (but I also haven't opened my brand new package yet)

Hello, can this developer work with fomapan 35mm 100,, I am waiting for a response, thank you.

Great video but music is annoying and not necessary

Lose the annoying music