Awesome results - really happy it worked well...eek B12 in the eye - careful! Keep us posted with your final results

duddddeeee with this chemicals u can lose your vision if its one of the nasty one...

Thanks for the info... I'll have to check Rislone out

How much marvel mystery oil and or Berryman's Chem Tool B12 are your guys putting in the cylinder ?

@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7enough to cover the entire piston. Try 2 inches of depth. Also remember, after you are done with the soak, extract what ever fluid is left before putting back on the spark plug. This will prevent hydro locking engine damage. Don’t do this job if you don’t know what you are doing.

@@xlightssx I know what I'm doing. I know exactly what you mean. I'm thinking like 4 oz. of chemicals per cylinder. Fortunately, I only have (1) cylinder (cylinder #5 on my 2002 Acura TL Type S) that's 15 psi (7%) short on compression. If the soak doesn't take care of it.. ... I'm thinking that additional oil additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant, engine oil flushes, etc... .... will hopefully take care of the issue be it through oil additives or fuel additives.

I like Rislone, too !

Great results! Glad it worked

Thanks for the note!

Thanks for sharing!

Pouring this in the fuel tank? Is it safe?

That 2.4l needs an oil catch can.

@@henrytom5824 I actually researched that and discussed it with my mechanic about installing one. The dilemma is i live in northern Illinois so we get periods of below freezing temperatures. The, car is not garaged and i often make short trips. The oils caught in the catch can may freeze thus restricting the flow of vapors and possible damage to the engine. If I lived south of Indianapolis then it would be a different story and I'd do it.

I think you might’ve had a typo, and you put the Berrymans in your crank case prior to the oil change, not the gas tank

Awesome results!!

@@ETMotorsports update 3 months in no noticeable loss in oil

Yeah lack of maintenance is a very common thing these days

sounds like a good solution actually...makes all the sense in the world

Sorry to hear... yeah they can be money pits

@@ETMotorsports most definitely, trying to be positive through the experience as I've learned a lot more about cars and engines in general from all the work I have chose to do myself instead of pay mechanic to do Channel's like yours have actually saved me thousands on repairs By the way did you ever figure out what those bits were in oil pan? Did oil pump recently and had little black and orange fragments in mine too

Cars are NOT an investment, they are an expense. Enjoy the luxury and the learning. Not sure? Go drive a clapped-out, penalty-box econo-car for a day (or an Altima!) You should feel better about keeping the Audi.

What's your consumption?

Hey that's great advice - I didn't go into details on this video but that was one of the parts I replaced while trying to diagnose the misfire...I was absolutely convinced it was the PCV because the oil was on to of the valves but nothing changed unfortunately... but you're 100% correct - if you're having oil burning issues you gotta check the PCV first

​@@ETMotorsportswhen you did the procederes you use the same sparks or use new one always in the procedures?

Im use a camera to see the pistons head and is crazy how dirt is, and have the same problem with misfire when the car is cold start and then is gone but not at all, I use the live data in the scanner and the 3 and 4 has short misfire and the oil burning is crazy

@@ETMotorsports My use of Lucas injector cleaner or the Liqui Moly coincided with changing the PCV and I'm sure they all helped a great deal. The PCV was most likely the original and had 208,000 miles on it. The oil consumption went down a huge amount after doing all 3 of these together, so I'll never know for sure if it was one or the other or all 3 together that helped with the serious oil consumption issue my 3.8L had. I'm just glad it's now only a qt every 5,000 miles instead of every 500 miles.

Could you say more about this check valve connected to the PCV? I have replaced the whole PCV valve but I am still burning oil way beyond what the manufacturer considers normal. Thanks

hey thanks for the detailed message...a few viewers have asked about doing this to a diesel motor and I didn't have any experience with it...I`m really glad this worked - very interested in what your final numbers will end up as...I have gone through multiple TDis and haven't really had oil consumption issues before - too bad the new motor is experiencing this especially with all the emissions issues they've had... Another viewer used the spray form carb clearner B12 and didn't seem to have much luck with it...here in Canada carb cleaner is very similar to break cleaner which is pretty strong and evaporates very quickly...were you able to scope the cylinders to see if the liquid actually made its way down? I'd be a little worried running carb cleaner through the motor so I think draining it without running was a good idea...you can add some engine treatment to your oil so the cleaning process continues over the first 5000km or so.... a lot of folks seem to be concerned about their catalytic converters running B12 in but as you've clearly seen, burning these amounts of oil continuously is way worse than running B12 for 20-30 min... fingers crossed your issue is resolved - please keep us posted!

@cvetelinnizamski4835 how are your current results? I have high oil consumption on my Audi A4 2012 2.0 tdi. Looking into trying the piston soak myself.

Update on my consumption. So far no consumption at all. The first 1000 miles the oil dropped slightly. Topped up 300ml to bring it back to max level and since I’ve made another 1000 miles without any oil consumption. I had no boroscope to inspect cylinders and I was little bit concerned where all the crap will go but so far it’s all okay.

@@tsvetelinnizamski great results... on the Q5bi also noticed the consumption improve with the mileage...I ultimately went through 1L in 5000km but the majority was gone by the first 2000

Did you try it?

Awesome results!!! Thanks for the feedback

Awesome results!!

How is this holding up? Our q7 3.0T with 124k is consuming 1 quart per 800 miles. Already did the pcv didn’t help much

@@hgas9631 4500km no light yet... doing the first oil change in a couple of weeks

@@ETMotorsports Same car & situation (but 2018) as @bryanjohnson6190 - I'm in the middle of piston soak now. Question - pistons look terrible - lots of build up/gunk. Going through lots of B12. At what point is it safe to close it back up and run? Do I need to extract gunk from cylinder? Any possible way to contact directly for advice and share of scope images?

@michaelholzbauer2218 hey you can get my whatsapp info from the FB page if you want to send pics... it's pretty normal to have gunk on top of the piston - my A4 was pretty sooty...B12 will soften all that up and if you crank with the plugs out it'll hopefully throw it out of the cylinder... beyond that you can try shop vac to collect the garbage or if you have a power bleeder that could work too

Not too familiar with that motor but it might be similar... although I'm not exactly sure how you would piston soak a horizontal motor lol

FB25 engines in the 2013+ Outback 2.5i have a well documented tendency to burn heaps of oil even when new. If you're under 100k miles, it may be a warranty issue, otherwise I would switch to an oil that is one grade heavier (I believe manual specifies 0w20, so try switching to a 0w30 or 5w30). If it's a 3.6, all I can say is that it's probably got a really bad leak or your rings are completely toasted. Normal consumption for the 3.6 is 1qt every 2-6k miles. Normal consumption for the 2013+ 2.5 is 1qt every 1-3k miles. Also, if you haven't already, I would definitely change out your PCV valve. It's an $8 part and won't take you more than 20 minutes to change, and if it's stuck shut, it will cause excess oil consumption like you've described. It can also cause leaks.

fucking subaru engines, they all consume oil in high quantities , and mine know also swallows the refrigerant

Use a liqui moly flush every oil change and use a catch can. Also a thicker oil will burn less

@@poleposition3065 Throw Rotella T6 5W-40 in there. I've seen dozens upon dozens of used oil analyses on Subie's and T6. Nothing beats it. Plus, it'll clean any gunk off your rings and then rejuvenate them. I don't mean to run it one time, either. I mean for life. Check out the bob is the oil guy forums, look at the UOA's and see for yourself what's the best oil in those engines. HINT: It's Rotella T6.

Good luck!

Keep us posted on your results!

thanks for the note - I`ll keep you guys updated on the Q5...doing the oil change in a week or so

​@@ETMotorsportslooking forward to this. What year is the q5? I have a 2015 that is destroying oil!

Nice summery, thanks.

YES! Use tubing...start them with the tube jammed on the end, instead of a wrench, to avoid cross threading into the aluminum head. That will give you a REALLY bad day!

I was cringing every time he did this. Absolutely crazy!! Weird how meticulous he is but yet doing this kind of action

Use the plug wire boot to start the threads, dk if the coil can do this too...

Or use a spark plug socket that can actually hold a spark plug and start them that way. Dude also cranked out all the solvents and got it all over engine bay and body paint. Extract it and then put a rag over each cylinder to catch solvent before blasting it all over the car. Not super into this dudes style

Thanks for the kind words!

Glad it worked!!

Guy's I traying to get my hand's on b12 chematol but that product do not come to eu any advice?

Hey good points! I've had a few people ask about subaru - i couldn't figure out how to do it unless the engine is on a stand or you somehow tilt the car 🤣

Good luck!

that's a good point - it would close it off better for sure but to be honest I don't think much of this evaporated at all...I've had B12 sit on my table for days and it doesn't really go down much if at all so this is mostly to keep other junk from falling in...

That would be a great substitute and easily accessible everywhere...I don't think it's as strong of a solvent but it's safe for the motor

I used Diesel in my B7 2 TFSI, it definitely reduced oil consumption, but it's not gone completely. But the car is currently in the garage due to low oil pressure... again, so I will take the oil pan off soon and see if the oil pick-up is clogged again. probably shit from the engine I could not reach the last time I did this came loose, and now I have to clean it out one more time. hopefully, that will permanently fix it as I will never change the oil as late as the service interval in the manual says to change.

@propm yeah diesel would be a fairly safe alternative although not as strong as the B12

@@ETMotorsports What about running a gallon of Diesel in a full 20 gallon gas tank once or maybe a couple of times? Would that clean things up or cause a problem?

@@labradoodle5097 that wouldn't do anything about the piston rings... might get some misfires too

Awesome! Any more details? What was your consumption? What about after the treatment? Any issues wth the process?

@@ETMotorsports i was burning about a quart in about 300-400 miles. There was a large plume of smoke after any kind of 0% throttle decl. Compression and leakdown tests all looked good. I let the pistons soak for about 30 hrs. Put the first can in then topped off about 6 hrs later.

did you rotate the engine as well?

Yeah you really don't want to run it for a long period - for a short period of time or should be ok... plenty of folks have run it as an engine flush but you're right that stuff like seafoam and liquimoly engine flush are safer for sure...I think it comes down to how bad your problem is... on this Q5 the consumption was bad enough that I needed that extra bit with the b12 flush

​@@ETMotorsports10mins? 15mins? The amount of time to run b12 in your engine

@teddy_awdB19 honestly anything you're comfortable with...I did 15 min idle in the A4 and I did 30 min at hwy speeds in the Q5... anything longer than that I think you start asking for trouble

Hey - thanks for the note...1L per 5000km it's pretty good compared to the numbers we're dealing with :)

What did you use it in ? Some people complain that it will loosen the paint inside the oil pan and clog your oil pump inlet screen .

If you feel uneasy about using it in the engine oil don't do it! I have used the B-12 with a full can to 12 gallons of gas and so after driving it for a good half hour at highway speeds you should start feeling a difference as to how much better the engine is responding, provided that your spark plugs are in good shape. If you are worried about using it in the engine oil, just don't do it! I know of a whole different approach when it comes down to treating the engine oil of gently getting the sludge/gunk out of the crankcase and I have done it four times over in the last 50 years of turning wrenches with no catastrophic results. One of 3 methods being using 1 quart of kerosene to 4 quarts oil used engine oil. Preheat the engine to operating temp but then shut it down. Adjust you oil level to the 4 quart mark of the oil dipstick by siphoning out how ever that you may need to, to get it to the 4 quart mark on the dipstick. the second index mark below the full line should be the target on most vehicles out there. Restart the engine but then have a stopwatch handy that is already set up for 2 minutes on the timer. Have your quart of kerosene also at the ready. Just as you have just restarted the engine, pour the kerosene into the oil filler tube and then start the 2 minute timer. After 2 minutes are up, shut down the engine and allow the engine oil sit and soak for about 20 minutes but then pull the drain plug and replace your oil filter so as to complete your oil change. Do this procedure at the 3,000 mile oil change interval. An even more gentler means of doing this sort of thing is to use Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic with a premium oil filter and change it after 2,000 miles, but then change the oil and filter. After 2 oil changes using the Pennzoil Ultra, such as at the 3,000 mile interval the second time go around, you should markedly see a big difference in the color of the engine oil, make no mistake about it. I know of at least 2 other methods of doing these sort of things over the years. @@mixter7x7

When it comes down to using the B-12 for soaking the piston rings and the cylinder walls, personally, I would jump at the chance of freeing the piston rings, knowing that my engine was already doomed to a nearly fatal fate. My engine for instance has over 180K and it has that very issue! If you are really smart about it, do you research ahead of time and view as many videos as possible. Stakes as they may be, if you know a little about your engine to start with, that is a big plus before trying anything at all! Take for instance, the amount of buildup and crusties that are in the oil filler passageway and the amount of crud inside the PCV valve hose and whether it is severe enough to get worried over. Also, the amount of crud inside the air intake plenum areas looking down towards the valves. AND how much carbon or how thick it is on top of the pistons as well. All of these things that I just mentioned can be a measuring tool by using a scope camera and taking time out to verify just how big of a problem it might be moving forward. If you don't have access to a bore scope camera, just pull those valve covers off and that could be a very good indicator as to whether to take the plunge using B-12 to help free up the piston rings. If there is mega sludge like hell won't have it, you still might decide one way or another. But yeah, do take the time out with an abundance of caution. @@mixter7x7

​@@craigtegeler4677⁰000

how is it going man? also how much oil did you "sprinkle" onto the pistons?

@@carenthusiast6748 just enough to wet the rings

I'm doing one this week in the same situation... hoping to report back and have a video within a few weeks...I know of a few viewers who have been successful on their 3.0Ts

Picked up a set of 18s for the GLander Duratracs :) time to get that truck dirty

2015 and on are fine, they have the updated rings...

I thought it's from 2013 they put better rings

2015s and on are not fine lol

Good luck!

I'm in the same boat as you with my 2002 is300 using shell rotella atm

Lots of folks praise MMO...I have to add it to my toolbox

Hmm i would wait for 5k before repeating the process... time it with the next oil change so you're not wasting oil... for the smell though it could be coming from many places so unless you're still burning a lot of oil, don't repeat the process... look for another source of oil - maybe PCV

Awesome results

@@ETMotorsports yes I did not have much time that night. After the second and last round of b12 to top off the pistons, I let it sit overnight. I think that helped a lot. And I put spark plugs on

@@ETMotorsports I’m now at 1600 miles since that oil chance and have not needed to add oil. The sensor read about half

@@chrisguillen1495 nice!

@@ETMotorsports thank you for documenting your experience. Without it I would be spending hundreds in oil or dealer fees. Great results!

Any updates

@@Abdullahkhattab24 Yes i changed oil at 450 miles im currently at 900 miles with no issues, car is running better and sounds better than before and even better gas mileage i recommend piston soak 👍

What treatment you used?

@@Abdullahkhattab24 The Berryman b12 2 bottles and seafoam high mileage in oil just like he did in the video

Yeah the diesel oil generally contains more detergents which is why I used the Rotella T6 with my second cycle... the oil doesn't match VAG spec for the engine but should be ok every 4-5 oil changes

Hey a few viewers have been able to order B12 from ebay and ship to their country...as for alternatives you can try LiquiMoly Engine Flush Pro Line or their injector cleaner alternative

yeah B12 in the fuel is a great idea...these things do get the injectors dirty so it doesn't hurt to run a can of cleaner through the fuel system...I generally replace the coil-packs when they go bad - there's not much point in replacing an item that's working correctly...in all honesty in 20+ years of working with coil-packs I must have had a grand total of 3 bad parts...

I shuddered the way he just threw them in. Great way to narrow the pre-gapped plugs. 🤦

The problem with these motors is manufactures don’t care a lot of these motors are giving problems well under 100,000 miles I see as low as 60,000 miles so basically 60,000 miles you’re ready for a new car to the point that that Hass to go in the junkyard because to do the motor the right way for your average person outweighs the price of the car unless you have all these tools and you’re a mechanic I got time to do it you could rebuild it the right way. I personally think we should stop buying these cars I have a 2012 cc this is my last Volkswagen I will ever buy because if you can’t make piston rings after all these years of building cars you’re not worth my money.

@@monkkayllc446 Yeah, they don't make 'em like they used to. If you ask me... The older 302/5.0's and 351w/5.8's were just unbeatable. The Ford 4.6 V8 SOHC was also an indestructible engine. As was the 4.6 DOHC 32v... it's just more rare, but it's a wicked engine. But now? Manufacturers can't be trusted to build a simple naturally aspirated engine, let alone a 2.0 liter 4 cyl turbo. I've heard Honda is already having issues with their 1.5 4cyl turbo engines in the Civic Si's. And I believe it because my sister has one. The DI (direct injection) is apparently diluting the oil so bad that they're spinning bearings. I'm sure they call for 5W-20, also, so that's always stupid. If people only knew how thick ANY oil is at start up they'd stop fretting over the 6-8cst difference between an xW-20 and xW-40. I mean, at 100C/212F, most xW-20's are 7.x cst. At start up (or rather, 40C) they're probably around 70cst. At 40C, Rotella T6 5W-40 is more around 115cst, I believe, but at 100C/212F it's a near 15cst oil that shears down to 13.6cst and stays there for the remainder of its time. You and anyone reading this should look at some UOA's at bob is the oil guy forums and see how oils perform. There are two oils out there that beat everything in wear metals. Rotella T6 5W-40 and Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. However, the best oil in the world doesn't prevent design flaws. I don't even want a new car. I want what I've always known to be reliable. I'm about to get an older Honda Civic or something for daily driving. Older as in 2012. Gotta have one with a manual transmission, too. Ford, Chevy and Dodge have disgraced themselves in comparison to what they were up until the early 2000's.

"Dissolvent"? The word is solvent.

dis·sol·vent

Hey EPC light is often related to oil pressure issues with the intake cam... I've got another video for oil pressure - check that out... if the EPC is coming up at roughly 1500rpm it's oil pressure related... the rings cause misfires because of fouled plugs but I haven't seen an EPC issue wth them

@@ETMotorsports Ahh ok gotcha…im here in Australia and Berrymans B12 one can is A$38 (haha ) I think its $5 in Canada. Anyways ordered few cans… Fingers crossed, car coming next week and will definitely let you know I will look now at your EPC video Any idea on YamaLube or BG EPR ?

Good luck... yeah the pcv can't account for that much oil... sounds like your engine is going the same as mine wth the misfire... have you checked the plugs?

@@ETMotorsports changed them and the coils

Hmm I've never tried to run ATF in my motor... interesting idea

Great results!!

Foreal. Used the same method. But only 1 can and it worked real good. Oil came out jet black

you can run as much as you want really...BUT if you do end up using more, maybe consider draining the oil before running the motor...

Yup... the acceptable spec from VW is insane

I was shocked as well I have a 2010 CTS-V wagon with 726,000 km I change my oil every 7000km don't burn any oil

@paulheinrich7645 zero issues... I've sold this A4 but the Q5 is running without problems 1 yr after the soak... it's done close to 20k km after the soak

you should be able to...folks have also tried LiquiMoly engine flush pro...you can check the contents of each and compare - so far B12 seems to be the strongest but I've seen good improvement even with SeaFoam

You'll need 2 I think... otherwise you're doing only one pour

Thanks a lot from London, everything so expensive here. 1 can costs £15 on eee bay. Will buy 2 . Just so I get the steps right. 1) soak pistons with 1 can, rotate engine, leave to soak for 24 hours. 2) repeat process with 2nd can. 3 after 24 hours, crank engine emptying cylinder. 4) run engine for 10-15 minutes 5) replace oil and filter and most likely spark plugs. Have I missed anything? Can I get away with this method. Thank you again, appreciate your help, newbie enthusiast so I don’t wanna mess anything up.

Forgot to add before soaking pistons to align pistons so they are at level height

That's awesome! Glad it worked

Yup works on diesels too... if the B12 hasn't gone down, just hit the starter a few times to clear up the cylinders before putting the plugs back

hey I leave the B12 in every time I do a soak and run the engine with it inside for 20-30 min...if you're worried you can run it on idle instead of driving around with it - on my Q5 I drove it pretty heavy on the hwy for 30 min before draining it. On the Q7 (not my car) I ran it on idle until the temperature came up and then replaced it. It depends on your level of comfort with the procedure but running B12 inside would help continue the carbon dissolving and cleaning of the motor...

You can try LiquiMoly engine flush pro line but it may not have the same results

Always always always clockwise... otherwise you're going against the chain tensioners... if you get stuck like I did you can carefully back up a bit but can't turn the engine that way for a long time

The transmission is irrelevant... flip it in neutral and you should be ok

Yeah pcv is a common issue but it'll never cause that much oil to disappear... if it's not leaking it's likely coming through the valve seals or piston rings... this treatment could potentially help if its the rings

Baby oil?

@@MultiRafael23 Yep, mineral USP oil. Naphthenic mineral oil.

There’s another channel where a guy seems to have identified Naphta to be one of the 3 core ingredients of seafoam

@@wolfgang6028 Yes, its Naphthenic Pale Oil (Baby oil) about 70%, Isopropryl alcohol about 15% and Naphta the rest 15% (an aromatic like gasoline). That's why it works at early stages, not on coked sludge.

Should be - same process

@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the fast reply! Thanks!

no issues with the head gasket...

I didn't but you can do that for sure

Hey good luck - looking forward to the results... so far most people have reported very random results from each cylinder as far as draining goes...I saw the same thing - they weren't consistently draining in the same manner so I wouldn't worry about it too much

Sheesh 2016 eh? Shouldn't be having these issues... how bad is the consumption?

Thank you for your videos, they have given me confidence to do this. Got a scope and that is very helpful and gives an amateur confidence. I would say a qt every 275-300 miles Btw, the existing plugs were all pretty crusty white Also, what is your opinion of the oil change method where they vacuum it out? Mine is it leaves a lot of gunk in the pan that contributes to this Audi problem I’ll be back when I have some results- work is impacting this experiment but I am taking satisfaction doing this myself So thank you again

Not available at CT... you have to order from the US... you can get it on ebay and Amazon but if you search there are a few websites that'll ship full boxes for cheaper

Haha yeah I was pretty surprised but it does a good job of loosening the rings to reseal the cylinders I guess

Hey you can see the other two videos i made - worked great on my q5

Hi, What did you use as cleaner?

It will work on any engine that's burning oil because of clogged pistons

Yup no issues

24mm socket

I've heard of folks using transmission fluid as well - what ratio are you doing? Do you plan to run the ATF mix permanently or just for a bit? I think ATF is also used if the engine has been sitting for a while

@@ETMotorsports all my cars I run ATF mixed with engine oil, my Honda CRV 2003 with 442000km still running with a 4.5 5w20 capacity and 1/4 litre of ATF

@@muzicstar98 what do you mean? Are you doing the treatment? Is the engine not turning freely?

Sold the car but repeated wth two more... all run great

It helps... you need a size 24 socket and you reach in from underneath to turn the crank... check out ep2 and 3 - there's more info there

@@ETMotorsports I saw that you were able to reach down into the front of the motor there and turn it with a ratchet it looks like. I just can't see where that crank is to hook my socket on to. Is it below the serpentine belt?